Thursday, March 31, 2011
According to Anne Marie this project will take about 30 minutes of total soaping time, broken up into two sessions. This entire project is very simple and could easily be done with children above the age of 4 with adult supervision. One small obvious safety note, when you are showering with your Easter soap, consider pulling the plastic, sharp-edged objects out of your soap. The little feet in the bird will scratch you and your loved ones in a rather unattractive manner. For this project, Anne-Marie used: White Melt and Pour, Non-Bleeding (Pink & Blue) Colorant Clear Soap,Lilac Fragrance, Labcolor Aqua, and Milky Way Square mold. All of these supplies can be purchased through Brambleberry.com.
You will need the following equipment to complete this project : Spoon, Pyrex or heat safe melting glass, Cheese Grater, and Plastic Dropper. The directions for this project are pretty basic. So follow them to the "T" and it should come out beautifully. And if you would like to take this project a step further, make sure to check out part 2 of this project called Soap Nesting Easter Soaps.
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
If you would like to see what HSN is selling to make your bath salts, M&P soap and body oils, you can check out the following links:
Bath and Body Oil Kit
Lisa's Kitchen Gentle Soap Kit
Lisa's Kitchen Sea Salt Scrub Kit
Also sold separately were 3 additional bottles of essential oils (.34 oz each) of lilac, gardenia and rose for $25.00, Lisa's Kitchen Soap Extras Refill Kit for $25.00 and a kit that contained colorants (red, yellow and blue) and dried flowers (lavender, angel wings which are my favorite and a couple of others).
I would admit that these kits are of a higher quality than you would find at Michaels and they probably are a great starter kit for someone who wants to try and make these products for the first time. But I think I would rather purchase a larger quantity of supplies to make more than having to go back and repurchase the kit if I wanted to make more. It would probably cost you alot less in the long run....
The supplies you will need to create these massage bars are 3 ounces Beeswax, 3 ounces Apricot or Almond oil, 3 ounces Cocoa Butter 1 teaspoon essential oil or combination of oils and Soap bar molds (available at most craft stores)
The directions are very simple. Heat Beeswax, Apricot or Almond oil and Cocoa Butter in a double boiler over low heat just until melted. Remove from heat. Add essential oil when mixture has cooled slightly. Pour into Soap molds and cool until hardened, approximately 2 hours. Place in freezer for a few minutes before popping bars out of molds. To use, rub massage bar onto the skin — the warmth of the skin immediately melts the bar.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Remember that song that had a lyric, "I never promised you a rose garden". Well, this bath tea surely comes close. This recipe for Rose Garden Bath Tea from The Bonnie Bath Company combines various flower petals froms roses, calendula, lavender buds and chamomile buds with geranium, ylang ylang, bergamot and lavender essential oils to make this fragrant and relaxing bath tea.
Monday, March 28, 2011
Striped Eggs How-To
Combine various techniques -- bands, leaf garlands, and flowers -- to dress up plain and dyed eggs.
1. To make stripes: Cut strips from a folded sheet of crepe paper with pinking shears. Apply glue to each end of strip; adhere to egg.
2. To make a garland: Cut 18 leaves for each egg from crepe paper. Glue bottom tip of each leaf to egg, overlapping slightly.
3. To make a flower: Cut a 1 3/4-inch circle from crepe paper. Fold in half, and then fold in half again. Pinch pointy end; insert a finger among paper layers and spread them to look like a flower. Fold pointy end, and glue it to underside of flower; let dry. Cut out 2 leaves. Glue flower and leaves to egg.
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Inspired by an easy Japanese technique, MSLO created these delightful decorations to enjoy this Easter and next.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
To be honest, I wanted to create these for many years but could not figure out how to get the melted soap in to the plastic Easter Eggs. After looking at A Big Slice's instructions, it all makes sense.
Friday, March 25, 2011
and Remedies". In this article titled, "Body wax - Hair removal wax kit based on bee wax and honey" has three different recipes that you can make in your very own kitchen. The three recipes are Homemade hair removal wax, Honey based body wax
and Strawberry honey hair removal body wax kit.
Did you know that the ritual of body waxing is not recent? According to the article, tt goes back to ancient Egypt where women were encouraged to cultivate the ritual of hair free bodies. They paid much attention to beauty and body appearance, and this was a pefect blend of cosmetics and hygiene.
You are wondering on how it was done in ancient times? Well, it was a basica mixture based on honey and hair remover based on sugar were used to make hair removal wax kit. The tradition of body wax preparation continued into ancient Greece but declined in the mid 10th century. After that, the attention we pay to waxing and hair removal still remains strong and present as a major part of our beautifying routine.
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Most of the ingredients in this recipe are pretty much available but I think the most difficult would be the ivy. Does anyone know where this item can be purchased?
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Kathy, who created this recipe, decided to add this recipe to the Essential Wholesale Recipe Wall of Fame. The recipe is simple to make and has a delightful fresh aroma. Why not try and create today!
Monday, March 21, 2011
Sunday, March 20, 2011
If you would like to make these adorable & delicious cupcake soaps, then visit The Soap Queen's Blog Soap and the Finer Things and check out the easy instructions on how to make Soap Cake, Cupcake. These would be an adorable favor or easy enough to make at a girl's birthday.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Friday, March 18, 2011
"Boiling hardwood ash in water creates runoff that can be processed to form either lye or potash. Potash contains high amounts of essential plant nutrients; therefore it is mostly used as an agricultural fertilizer. With a long history of mining and manufacturing, the potassium salts help form soap, glass, and dyes.
Chemically, potash consists of potassium carbonate, but also might contain potassium oxide or potassium chloride, depending on how pure you consider the mixture. Usually, potash takes the form of powdery salts. Modern methods of extraction almost all rely upon deposits mined from ores, like sylvanite.
Historically, the manufacture and trade of potash traces an interesting period in the New World's economy. As one of the largest cash crops of the late 1700s and early 1800s, potash established strong trade routes through upstate New York, Canadian provinces, and overseas to Russia and England. At a time when land covered in hardwood forests was more valuable as farmland, settlers felled hundreds of thousands of acres of trees. Not only did this create lumber for building, but also they found a way to extract even more money by creating potash.
The word potash is a compound of "pot" and "ash," showing how the salts were first made. All leftover tree material, including damaged branches and roots, were burned on a dry day. The most popular wood came from broadleaved trees, namely Elm.
When these ashes were soaked in hot water for a while, then filtered, the rudimentary stage of potash created lye. If this lye, filling huge pots in a kiln, was baked down to evaporate all the water, "black ash" resulted. Black ash was like an unfiltered kind of potash. Farmers could make far more money trading potash than either lumber or food crops.
Nowadays, our potash comes from mining and goes toward inorganic fertilizer rich in potassium. In fact, the widespread use of these kinds of fertilizers on major crops like corn, wheat, and vegetables means arable land yields more edible food per acre. Potassium protects plants against disease and pests, allows them to flexibly adjust to changing weather conditions, and encourages them to absorb more nutrients. The resulting crops are larger and more nutritious. "
For more information on potassium hydroxide for your liquid soap making projects, check out these links:
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Do you love the natural look of gemstones? If you would like to learn how to make melt and pour gemstone and rocks soaps, then check out the tutorial from Soap Making Forum. The tutorial gives you alot of tips on what you should do to make your soap look like a geniune gemstone.
I have seen someone create these gemstone soaps and they looked like the real thing. Before starting you may want to look at a book of gemstones to see what your favorite gemstone looks like in its raw form.
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
If you would like to see how these bombs were made then check out the article titled Bath Bombs for Fun. The ingredients that were used in this recipe were baking soda, citric acid, fragrance/essential oil, sweet almond oil, witch hazel, colorant and a surprising ingredient of corn flour. I am not sure what corn flour adds to the end product so I am going to ask the author about that particular ingredient in this recipe.
Monday, March 14, 2011
So if you would like to try and make your own lip scrub recipe, then may I suggest the Hydrating Lip Buff Recipe from DIY Skincare.
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Friday, March 11, 2011
If you are a cold process soap maker and you are looking for an interesting look to your soaps, try making these Flowery Suds Soaps from Lovin' Soaps. These soaps are truly unique and would be perfect to create for the spring or if you are having some type of retro event.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
If you would like to make aroma beads but do not know how, then check out the instructions to Cajun's aroma beads recipe.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
This article is focusing on the controversial topic of paraffin wax versus soy wax. The intent of this article is not to convince you of which is better, but to help you understand the real differences between soy and paraffin. Ultimately, it is each candle maker’s personal choice which wax to use and either one is a good choice. I hope that any discussion in the forum not be combative or “bashing” of one or the other, but more a quest to truly understand the differences.
The most highly touted inaccuracy is that soy wax candles do not soot and paraffin wax candles do. This is a false statement. A candle is a combustible and combustion equals soot. Soy candles produce white soot that is generally not seen by the eye whereas paraffin candles produce black soot. Neither soot is better than the other or healthier for you. It is important to note that sooting mainly happens when the flame is disturbed. This can happen by an air draft, an improperly trimmed wick, as well as a clogged wick. All these things happen in both types of candles. It is even more important to note that it the amount of soot you are exposed to by burning candles is minimal. It is very unlikely that it will cause health problems. Now if your house were to burn down due to a candle accident, the soot from the house burning would be harmful to you. I use this example to show you the difference in the amounts of soot you are exposed to. We sometimes forget to think about these things when we are bombarded with statements made to cause us to be fearful.
The main difference between soy and paraffin waxes is that one is “renewable” and the other is not. Soy wax is a by-product of soy beans and is thus renewable. We can plant more soy beans without adversely affecting our natural resources. It is also helpful to farmers who grow and sell their soybeans. Paraffin wax is a by-product of petroleum which is not renewable. But I also want to help you look at this in a different light. We do not drill for oil solely for paraffin wax. Petroleum is used in almost every aspect of our lives. It is used in the plastics we use for storage, the make-up we wear on our face, the clothes we wear and furniture we use. Petroleum is a basis of our life and we have become very dependent on it in our lives. When crude oil is sent to be distilled, it goes through many phases of distillation producing many different products from that one barrel of crude of oil. The categories made in order of distillation are: fuel gases, liquefied petroleum gases, aviation gas, jet fuel, kerosene, distillate fuel oil, diesel fuel oils, residual fuel oil, lubricants, greases and finally waxes. I do not claim to understand the distillation processes, but it is obvious that waxes are the final product made. They are more greatly distilled and cleaner. Food grade paraffin is used in many of our foods and is FDA approved. Food grade paraffin wax must meet different standards than plain paraffin wax. I personally use food grade paraffin wax in my candles.
Ultimately, I am not bashing either type of wax. My only issue is that current trends have brought us to believe that one wax is better than the other and this is not true. The only true difference is that one is renewable and one is not. It is a choice of personal preference. I prefer a highly fragrant candle and this is better achieved with paraffin wax than soy wax. The candle maker adds additives to both types of waxes to change the melting point, hardness of the candle and the ability to hold scent.
Permission to reprint by Shanda Lynn Markham, BellaOnline's Candlemaking Editor. Original article - http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art52885.asp
Monday, March 7, 2011
These beautifully glittered Easter eggs are a sparkling alternative to coloring them with dyes.
Tools and Materials
Double-sided "Flora" sticker roll
Blown-out eggs (Martha used pheasant eggs)
Standard 1/4-inch hole punch
Glittered Eggs How-To
1. Remove double-sided stickers from roll and place on the egg, keeping the paper on the top part of the sticker intact (tweezers help with this).
2. Once you have covered the egg with stickers, remove the paper covering the other sticky side of each sticker.
3. Roll the egg in glitter, making sure to get glitter on each sticker.
4. Blow on the egg with canned air to remove excess glitter.
1. Use a sticker to cover the hole(s) left in the egg by the egg blower.
2. Use a standard hole punch to punch dots from the negative space on the sticker roll, and use these to make a polka-dotted egg.
The double-sided "Flora" sticker roll and colored glitter (Martha used purple sapphire, blue sapphire, green agate, and bronze) are available at http://www.marthastewartcrafts.com/. Pheasant eggs are available at thefeatheredegg.com. A hole punch and canned air can be found at office-supplies stores. An assortment of glitter colors is available at the Martha Stewart Shop. More information about blowing out an egg is available in our Everything Easter center.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Saturday, March 5, 2011
I would say that Lavender happens to be one of the top fragrances students put in their bath and body creations. I think it is because of the is known for its soothing, calming, and relaxing properties which would make it a great nighttime product.
For those who love lavender and want to create their very own salt scrub recipe, here is a Lavender Salt Scrub recipe from The Soap King. What is really interesting about this recipe is the introduction of liquid glycerin and lavender buds. There is no carrier oil in this recipe so maybe it is not as greasy. As you can see from the picture that there really is not much color to the salt. But according to the recipe, there is a colored mica powder. Sometimes liquid colorant can be overpowering, so if you like a light touch of color then go for the mica powder.
Friday, March 4, 2011
Thursday, March 3, 2011
When looking for paper to wrap soap it is important to understand that the weight of paper that one chooses is very vast. Although, the weight of the paper depends on the type of paper used yet typically 20 pound weight paper is regular writing paper, while weights that are more substantial such as 60-80 pound weights will wrap a soap bar encasing it almost like a box. This may be fine especially for soap that is damaged easily.
Textured paper is a always a favorite, especially handmade paper. Though not practical for soaps sold in large amounts, handmade paper is great for small boutique soaps or to give as gifts because it is expensive and the supply inconsistent. Most handmade paper is made in far flung lands and by the time it gets to the market here it becomes a luxury item, rather than a staple. Still, if one can find a steady, consistent supplier, handmade paper maybe the way to go. It is always important to note that though we are trying to protect the goods, people shop with all five senses and handmade goods looks especially earthy and rare in handmade packaging.
There are however some great inexpensive papers for wrapping soap. My favorite on the list is Kraft paper. There is nothing that says handcrafted like Kraft paper. And although I am heavily influenced by exotic handmade paper, yet Kraft paper with a little jazzing up is really very special packaging. Plus there are several versions of Kraft paper one can get. It come s packaged on the roll, in 8.5x11 sheets, in label sheets and as butcher paper with a slick side. All of these types of Kraft paper is great to wrap soap with.
The primary reason this is one of my favorite papers to use is that it makes a good foil for simple images - unlike other kinds of paper that need colored images, Kraft paper looks great with very simple lines. That could be due to its natural color. With that said, let me say that Kraft paper does not have to be simple wrapping for soap. It can be dressed up. in fact my favorite way to use Kraft paper is to add metallic touches to the finished label, such as a metallic stamp or simple line art with glitter/metallic gel pen. Kraft paper also is nice with natural elements such as leaves, twigs and even shells!
Reprinted with permission from Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor ,www.Bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
An early complaint about one company called Earth-Friendly was that their products did not cause any harm but they really not effective either which means they did not clean very well. Products have now improved, but now consumers have to sort through the claims for non-toxic, green, planet-friendly and other attributes without clear definitions.
If you are really wondering if a product is really eco-friendly, one thing to do is check for the EPA’s Design for the Environment seal indicating the product has met the program’s sustainability requirements or criteria. This seal will include the product’s effect on human health. According to the article, in 2003 43 products qualified for the seal and now more than 2,000 products from 300 manufacturers qualify for this seal including store brands and traditional older manufacturers. Plus government and private efforts are underway to regulate product testing, ingredient disclosure and the ways companies communicate green marketing messages. In late 2010, the California Air Resources Board adopted a rule that will mean reformulations of about 2,000 consumer products to release volatile organic compounds or VOCs.