Friday, September 28, 2007

Recharge and Re-energize with Aromatherapy Oil

We all have busy and stressful lives, which can at times take its toll on our moods and wellbeing. We spend our whole lives rushing from A toB and from one problem to the next, without taking time out to rechargeand re-energize the body and mind. Living like this for too long can have adverse affects on your health and can cause you to feel depressed and fatigued.

The use of Aromatherapy oil and some simple techniques can help to re-vitalise and recharge your flagging batteries. You don’t need to be a professional to use these techniques; all you need is a few minutes out of your busy schedule, to practice these simple methods.

If you awake in morning, feeling exhausted and you have a tough day ahead, an aromatherapy bath will mentally prepare you for the rest of the day. 6 drops of Peppermint oil, blended with Rosemary and Juniper will make an excellent morning bath, which will both energize and

If you are feeling mentally fatigued in the mornings, during your commute to work, you could try a single drop of Rosemary oil on each wrist. The energizing and stimulating properties of the Rosemary oil will uplift, clear the head and make you alert for the day ahead.

In the evening, after a hard day, a simple oil burner and some relaxing music can do wonders for your moods. A few drops of energising aromatherapy oil such as Orange, Grapefruit, Lemon or Citronella will lift the spirit and calm the nerves. These citrus oils also blend well with Bergamot,which is also a great oil to refresh and relax with.

You can also use simple aromatherapy techniques in the workplace,to keep up your energy levels and concentration throughout the day. An oilburner onthe desk is not always convenient, so you could try making asimple air spray consisting of Flower Water and essential oils. Mix togetherin aspray bottle, shake well and spray when you are in need of a tonic.

By following these simple techniques, along with others that youwill learn as you progress in the world of aromatherapy, you will findthat the stresses and strains of everyday life will soon become more manageable.

About the Author

Emma writes articles on how Aromatherapy can help you in your daily
life and runs various Aromatherapy websites. To buy Aromatherapy oil for use with the above techniques, visit us at


Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Shrink Wrapping Soap

For those who make melt and pour and cold-process/hot-process soaps, one way to wrap the soap bar that ensures that it stays fresh and does not lose moisture or fragrance is to wrap it in shrink-wrap. One has to be careful that the soap to be wrapped is thoroughly dried, especially cold process or hot process soaps. I have found that soaps that are cold processed or hot-processed may develop moss or get slimy in the plastic. Again, this is only my experience. In addition, melt and pour soap will need to be air dried for a couple days so that the shrink wrap does not stick to wet spots on the soap. Please test your product to see how it reacts in different wrappings.

Essentially, there are two popular types of shrink-wrap used to wrap soaps. One is PVC and the other is polyolifin. PVC is a shiny wrap that is crisp to the touch and is excellent for wrapping bars of soap as well as baskets and small packages. PVC holds up to wear and tear and has that shiny surface that most people are used to seeing on large items like gift baskets and gift trays. Though it is contended whether or not one can smell the scent of soaps through PVC, I have found that PVC 60gauge, allows the scent of the soap to come through.

Polyolifin on the other hand is softer to the touch, has more give, especially for wrapping unusual shaped objects and has very tiny holes (check with supplier to make sure that they have customized their polyolifin with tiny holes) that allows the soap to breathe, retain some moisture and allows the scent of the soap to come through the packaging. This type of shrink-wrap is popularly known as ‘smell through’ shrink-wrap. In addition, one of the great features of this type of shrink wrap is that it is biodegradable and is acid free.

Most companies that sell shrink-wrap film also offer a basic starter shrink-wrap system. This is a one-time investment that is worth its weight in gold. Shrink wrap equipment can last for years. Prices start from $100.00 to several hundred dollars depending on the type of equipment used. Here is a list of what you will need to get started:

Manual Impulse OR Freewand sealer
Heat shrink-wrap gun
Roll of double-folded shrink-wrap film (PVC or Polyolifin)
Extra wires and Teflon tape for impulse sealer

60gauge and 75gauge polyolefin are great for wrapping melt and pour soaps. For soaps that will be handled heavily or that will need to have a longer shelf life, I like to use a stronger gauge of polyolefin, say 75gauge, or 60-100gauge PVC. Please be sure to test the different gauges to see which one suits your product best. In addition, before wrapping make sure the soap is dry to the touch so that when shrink-wrapped, the film puffs up around the soap and then shrinks evenly on all sides. Prepare soap by leaving them out to air dry for a day or two. If the shrink film forms a balloon around product, prick a small hole in an area that will be covered by a label, and give it another blow with the gun.

At first when you wrap the soap, the scent may not come through, but over time, the bar of soap will give off its fragrant aroma.

Here are some sources for shrink-wrap supplies:

National Shrink Wrap ( The shrink wrap experts for soapers. Speak to Art Marko, the owner who knows all there is to know about shrink-wrapping soaps. Much of their equipment is designed by them for the Bath/Body care packaging industry. Starter Kits are available with polyolifin film

Complete Packaging and Supplies - New York based company -- Speak to Jeff who will be more than happy to take orders on the phone for PVC as well as Polyolifin. They are reachable at 1(800)-269-7872

Saratoga Scents ( Smell through shrink wrap

Essence Supply ( and instructions

Uline ( )– Starter kits (shrink film has to be purchased separately),PVC and polyolifin film available

Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor,

Monday, September 24, 2007

Melt and Pour Projects From Michaels

Some of the projects from Michaels website recommend using the Life of the Party Soap Kettle. My previous experience with this product is not a very good one. I found it to be very messy to use. What I mean by that is that once the soap is melted, I had to transfer the soap to a measuring cup to mix in my coloring and fragrance. I would have spillage between the two. The keep warm function is worthless. Often it would cool down before I would get enough soap into my measuring cup which resulted in me going to the microwave and reheating the soap. Also, I would find that once you got to bottom of the kettle it would be difficult the remaining melted soap out which causes alot of waste. Since the insert is not coated, it is very difficult to clean. This product is not worth the $29.99 they are asking you to pay for what is similiar to a rice cooker.

Here are some of the melt and pour soap making projects from Michaels website:

Soap Ornaments (

Cookie Cutter Soap Bars (

Soap Chunk Bars (

Soaps for Dad (

Herbal Soap Rolls (

Marbelized Fall Leaf Soaps (

Silk Flower Soap Bars (

Spooky Halloween Foam Soap Bars (

Fun Soap with Craft Foam (

Natural Green Tea Soap (

Stained Glass Soap (

Layers of Color Bar or Loaf (

Checkerboard Soap-in-a-Soap Bar (

Curks, Noodles, Shavings - Bars or Loafs (

Embossed Soaps (

Soap Strings (

Bath Salt Soap Bars & Sachets (

Bath Salt Soap Bars (

Patriotic Swirls Soap (

Clever Swiss Cheese Soap (

Rock Bar Soap (

Chunk Loaf Soap Bar (

Soapmaking Fun (

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Shea Butter Soap

(from Soothing Soaps by Sandy Maine)


2 cups glycerin soap base, melted in a double boiler
2 tbsp shea butter, melted separately
Several drops of your favorite essential oil (optional)


Mix well, pour into molds (you can use regular food storage containers), and cool.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.


Saturday, September 22, 2007

Bath Ice-cream Bomb Recipe

Bath Ice-cream Bomb is fragrant and makes beautiful bathroom accessory. You can gift them to your friend or just keep it in your bath and use it while getting ready for a romantic evening. Keep these bath bombs neatly stacked in a large bowl and perhaps decorate them using fake cardboard wafers to make them look like a real sundae scoop. Pack some for your valentine or fiancée to make an impression. The bath craft project here makes 7 medium sized ice-cream balls.

Things You Will Need:

½ cup Citric Acid
½ tbsp Water
1 ½ cup Baking Soda or Soda Bicarbonate
10-15 drops Fragrance Oil or Essential Oil
2 tsp Almond Oil or Apricot Kernel Oil
5 drops Food Coloring

Stir the dry ingredients well in a bowl.

Drizzle in almond or apricot kernel oil, while stirring until the mixture is moistened.

Add more fragrance or essential oil and base oil as needed and keep stirring until it mixes well.

Add water so that the mixture is not crumbly.

Roll the mixture in shape of a ball using your hands.

Put the ball in a lightly oiled round mold or ice-cream scoop to give it a better shape.

Let it slip gently on a sheet of wax paper, where you have to leave it until it dries and gets set which can take many days.

Keep these ice-cream bombs in your bath and add 1 bath bomb to the bath under running water to get that special frizzing spa-like bath that helps to relax us so much.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.


Friday, September 21, 2007

New blog from Wholesale Supplies Plus

One of the vendors I order supplies from just sent me an email informing me that they were starting a blog. If anyone is interested, Wholesale Supplies plus just started a blog. Here is the link that will take you directly there:

The first interesting post on the blog was a tip on filling multiple lip tubs. I thought this was a great tip from a customer. I am always looking for great tips that I can use!

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Flexible Ice Cube Trays/Silicone Molds

I normally make soap embellishments for my melt and pour soap with flexible ice cube trays. They come in a variety of different shapes/themes. I found that is best to hand wash the ice cube trays because the dishwasher gets so hot that it warps the item out of shape.

I also use Silicone Muffin Pans in various shapes to make a variety of soaps. I have not put them in the dishwasher, but the clean up is so easy that I just hand wash them.

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Spider and Web Silicone Muffin Pan Available

I was in Target today and I saw that they are selling a 6 cavity muffin pan with an image of a spider (3) and a web (3). If you are really into halloween and want to create soaps with this then get it. You will find it where they have all of their Halloween seasonal merchandise. The cost for this item is $9.99.

Foaming Bath Salts

Here is a great recipe for adding bubbles and softening hard water:

Mix together:

1 cup course salt
1 cup graded soap
1 cup Epsom salts
5 drops of liquid colorant
5 drops of honeysuckle fragrance oil
5 drops of honey fragrance oil
5 drops of lily of the valley fragrance oil

Shake every day for a week. Package as desired.

Recommendations: How about subsituting a powdered bubble bath like Mr. Bubbles instead of graded soap? Also, you do not have to stick with the combonation of fragrance oils in this recipe, you can create your own. I would use about the same total amount of drops.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.

Source: Melt and Pour Soapmaking by Marie Browning, page 83. Sterling Publishing. New York, New York.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

New Michaels Arts and Crafts Store Opening

A new Michaels Arts and Crafts Store will be opening up in Mountain View, California. According to the website the store is supposed open September 30th, but I drove by the store last week and the sign on the store says September 23rd.

Here is the address to the new store:

2415 Charleston Road
Mountain View, CA 94043

Here is a link for more information:

I am looking forward to this new location. I will let you know what I think when it officially opens. I did take a peak through the window and it looks really nice. I might decide to teach a class there. Who knows?

Monday, September 17, 2007

Production and Pricing of Craft Show Items

This is where you can really make or break your craft show
career. Being able to produce quality crafts as efficiently and
affordably as possible is the key to making a tidy profit from
craft shows.

How Production Evolves

How you handle production of your craft show items will evolve
over time. Initially you may produce all your craft items alone.
This will likely be the most cost effective way to start your
craft show creations. As your business grows, you may decide it
is best to find employees who can recreate your artistic flair –
so you can build more products and increase your overall revenue.

Time and experience will help you streamline your production
cycle for maximum efficiency. You'll learn as you go how long
it takes to produce your craft show items, how long to allow for
drying, setting or baking, what quantity of supplies you need
for a certain amount of inventory and how much inventory you'll
need for a one-day craft show. Basically, you are going to get
better and smarter about how to build your craft show items – so
you can maximize the profit!

Always have some form of quality control if you're working
alone, such as a friend or family member checking your crafts
for sturdiness, appearance, etc. If you make jewelry, have
someone else try on a necklace to make sure the clasp works, it
doesn't fall apart while putting it on and that you are pleased
with the appearance. If you have put a frame around a small
painting, ensure the frame’s sturdiness, so your craft customer
isn’t disappointed when it falls apart. Think about how you will
transport your products during the production process, making
them sturdy enough to travel or finding strong packing materials
through your suppliers.

Over the years, your products will evolve as you make
modifications to existing designs and add new products. With
feedback from customers and keeping abreast of current trends,
as well as developing new skills and interests, you'll probably
add new products and remove slower-moving ones. As soon as you
see a steady decline in sales, consider dropping the
product—don't get attached, this is business. You can always use
slower products as bonuses, gift items or for raffle drawings or


The crucial question about pricing is: How do I price my craft
show products for the best results—good sales and good profit?
Can I have both? You may fear that if your prices are too low,
you could incur the wrath of your competitors or make less
profit. If your prices are too high, your sales will drop. The
right price is one of the most significant factors in
contributing to your success or failure—and one of the most
difficult factors to decide upon.

There are several schools of thought on how to arrive at the
best price for your work. Again, time and experience will be
your best guides. It is easy enough to raise or lower your
price with each craft show you attend and eventually find the
best fit. You may even find yourself changing prices at
different craft shows as you learn the shopping patterns of your
customers. If someone seems interested then walks away, ask
them why they didn't buy and if they say price, ask what they
would be willing to pay. If you get the same information
repeated several times, it's an indication of what customers are
willing to pay—at least at that craft show!

Although you need to test your prices, don't make drastic price
adjustments in the same weekend, as customers may complain. Make
smaller adjustments in different towns based on craft show
results and customer feedback. Sometimes the difference in
improving your sales can be as small as $1.00, such as lowering
a $12.00 item to $10.99. And sometimes selling fewer items at
higher prices can be more profitable in the long run.

Take time to consider your price carefully. Consider cost of
supplies and labor, craft show fees, transportation and other
expenses involved. The efficiency of your production will also
have an impact on how much profit you can make from your craft
show items, and ultimately both will determine your success on
the craft show circuit!

About the Author

Natalie Goyette shows you how to make your craft show business
profitable in her best selling ebook: Craft Show Success Secrets. Visit her
site: class='navigation'>

Source: href="">

Saturday, September 15, 2007

How to Make Scented Rocks


Place rocks in a bowl or dish to scent a room. A nice alternative to potpourri!


1/2 cup plain flour
1/2 cup salt
1/4 teaspoon essential oil (your favorite scent)
2/3 cups boiling water
Food coloring, if desired


In bowl, mix dry ingredients well. Add essential oil, and boiling water to dry ingredients. (Scent will be strong, but will fade slightly when dry.)
For colored stones, blend in food coloring, one drop at a time until desired shade is reached. Blend ingredients, and form balls into different shape and sizes to look like stones. Allow stones to dry.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.


Friday, September 14, 2007

Citrus Blast M&P Shampoo Bar

Source: Printed from the FREE Recipe Database offered by From Nature With Love

Submitted By: Jenn of Bechtelsville, PA


1lb opaque M&P base
1t almond oil
4t shea butter
1 1/2t castor oil
1oz beeswax
1 1/2oz cocoa butter
2-3 drops orange fo/eo
2-3 drops lemon fo/eo
2-3 drops grapefruit fo/eo
colorant (optional)


While soap base is melting, combine oils, beeswax and butters and melt separate from soap base. Combine soap base and oil/butter mixture and stir constantly until cooled. Add fragrance and color. Pour into molds and allow to cool. Package as desired.

Please Note: Most of the recipes included in the Nature with Love Recipe Database have been generously submitted by their customers. We are not able to test each recipe, and we cannot guarantee the results that you may obtain. The recipes are meant to be used as a guideline and source of inspiration, so please experiment in small batches. For soap recipes that include lye, please be sure to check lye calculations prior to trying the recipes. If you find that a recipe has not been calculated properly, please let us know.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.

Monday, September 10, 2007

Bath Products Tutorials

If you are looking for some help on making several different bath products, here is a link from Herbal Soap and Toiletries that can help you. The tutorials included on this link are Bath Melts, Hot Process Soap, Liquid Soap, Lip Balm, Body Butter, Lotions and more.

Click here to go directly to tutorial site:

If you are not finding what you are looking for, please check out the links in the side bar for more recipes on the recipes you are looking for.

Have with your new hobby!

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Measurement Guidelines

Have you come across an unfragrant recipe and did not know how many drops of essential oils to add? Well, maybe this can help.

The instensity of pure essential oil (PEO) varies from oil to oil, and often batch to batch. Ingredients in different unfragranced caries bases likewise vary, so the aroma intensity and texture of your finished products will display slightly different characteristics each time. Add oils carefully drop by drop, mixing thoroughly, and do not exceed these guidelines. 'Drops' refers to drops from an integrated drop dispenser of an essential oil bottle. Bear in mind that absoultd are up to eight times stronger in aroma intensity than essential oils, so adjust your measurments accordingly. The author of this book that this information does not mention fragrance oils, so I would take that into consideration. Here some guidelines:

Bath Salts: Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 2 oz (1/4 cup) unfragranced bath salts.

Dusting Powders: Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 4 oz (1/2 cup) unfragranced powder base.

Body Oils: Add 20 to 25 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced carrier oil/s.

Bath Oils: Add 20 to 25 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfrangranced carrier oil/s.

Body Lotions: Add 20 to 25 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced lotion.

Cleansing Milks: Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced cleansing emulsion base.

Facial Oils and Creams: Add 5 to 10 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced oil or cream.

Bath and Shower Gels: Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced bath or shower gel base.

Liquid Soap Cleanser: Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced liquid soap base.

Hair Shampoo: Add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced shampoo base.

Hair Conditioner: Add to 15 drops of essential oil/s to each 1 oz (30 ml.) unfragranced conditioner base.

Source: Natural Bodycare...Recipes for Health and Beauty by Julia Meadows. Sterling Publishing, New York. 1998. page 33.

Friday, September 7, 2007

Aromatherapy- Know the Power of Fragrances

Aromatherapy is an ancient art that has been used for thousands of
years as an aid to physical and emotional well being. Aromatherapy and
its use can be traced back as far as the ancient Egyptians, who took
advantage of essential oils therapeutic powers. Aromatherapy has also
been used for a very long time in the Far East and China.

Effects of Aromatherapy

Aromatherapy is a branch of herbology and the study of "aromatherapy" may best be considered in these four areas of application:

Aesthetic - the effects essential oils have on the beauty of skin
and hair.

Psycho - the effects aromas have on our moods and feeling; known as aromachology.

Holistic - the integration of the divine into the body, mind, and spirit.

Medical - the effects essential oils have in enhancing and
maintaining a state of homeostasis.

Method of application

An essential oil is a liquid distilled from the leaves, stems,
roots, flowers, or bark of a plant. Essential oils, which are used in
Aromatherapy, are very concentrated, and therefore, they are usually
diluted with carrier oil, such as almond oil. Essential oils, in their
purest form, tend to be very expensive, because the amount of oil present in
plants is extremely small. For example, 440 pounds of fresh lavender
flowers yield only 2.5 pounds of essential oil of lavender. Aromatherapy and essential oils can be used for many purposes, such as to calm or rejuvenate the body and mind.

The use of aromatherapy can be seen as part of a lifestyle choice
-- a lifestyle that allows for pleasure because a moment of pleasure is
healing. Pleasure is described as a source of enjoyment. Why deny
yourself the pleasure and the benefits of a feminine fragrance such as
Rose from Morocco or Bulgaria?

By understanding how to apply aromatherapy in daily use, you can
enjoy the scents and help to maintain a system of preventative care for
you and your family's long-term well-being.

About the Author

For more information, visit these sites:


Thursday, September 6, 2007

Homebased Craft Business Book

If you are interested in starting your own craft business and do not know where to start, I found a book at my local library by Kenn Oberrecht titled "How to Start a Home-Based Craft Business".

This book is an overall good guide that contains all the necessary tool and strategies to launch a successful craft business in your very own home. The author shares his own experiences in starting his craft business and his advice to help you estimate your start-up costs, manage your cash flow, record keeping and stay profitable once you are in business. What is great about this book is that the information is practical and easy to understand and that is what I liked best about the book. It also has a source directory which includes information on where to locate associations, office supplies, craft supplies, craft magazines and more. I found the information on craft supplies, magazines and supplies were not geared for my craft of soap making but you may want to take a look to see if your particular craft is showcased.

I found this book to be easy to read and informative and can be applied to starting your own craft business. I liked the authors handy worksheets and information on managing your craft business (ie job planning, forecasting and scheduling). And the source directory was helpful especially locating craft magazines. Although, the information on search engines looked like it was out of date. Only reason I say that is because most of them are out of business like Excite and Webcrawler.

Overall, I found this book helpful and would use it as a companion book to my other home based business books which include Soapmaking for Fun & Profit: Make Money Doing What You Love! (For Fun and Profit) by Maria Nerius. Also there are some wonderful books by Barbara Brabeck that you may want to look into.

Soapmaking Business Book

If you are interested in earning a living by making soap, then I would recommend a book by Maria Given Nerius titled "Soapmaking for Fun and Profit".

The first part of the book is dedicated on getting started by setting your up your workplace (basic equipment, safety), creative how-to's (Saponification Calculations, Shaping Soap, labeling, packaging, creating your own blends, gathering and drying your own botanicals), creating your soap recipes (handmilled soap recipes), and your craft vision.

The second part of the book is dedicated on how to make money from your soap making creations. Chapters include Profiting from your Talent (teaching, etc.), pricing your soap, selling your soap, marketing your soap and a mini course in craft business basics by Barbara Brabec.

Of course, the book includes a glossary, resources and appendicies. But, I have to say that some of the information in the resources are out of date. For example, I was looking up on the internet a site called According to the author, is an events directory and personal calendar website. This site was not recognized so it must no longer exist.

I would recommend the overall content because it is geared to creating a soap making business. But, I would also include "How to Start a Home-Based Craft Business" by Kenn Oberrecht and "Homemade Money" by Barbara Brabec.

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Peach Shower Gel Recipe


3/4 cup distilled water
1/4 cup shampoo concentrate and 1 teaspoon table salt OR
1/2 cup unscented shampoo and 1 1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 tablespoon apricot kernel oil
15 drops peach fragrance oil
5 drops vitamin E oil (2 oil capsules)
1 drop orange food coloring (optional)


Warm water and pour into a ceramic bowl. Add remaining of ingredients, stirring well until blended and thick. Pour into squeeze bottle and close.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.


Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Soapmaking Abbreviations

In the soap making arena many abbreviations and acronyms are used, especially on email lists. Here is a list of the most commonly used acronyms and abbreviations for different methods of making soaps. As more terms come my way, I will be updating this page with the most newly coined ones.

CP -- Cold Process soap is soap that is made by blending oils(fatty acids) and sodium hydroxide together until they reach trace (become homogenized)which results in the heating of the mixture which begins the chemical process called saponification. The yielded result is cold process soap. This is soap made without heating. The process of saponification takes 2-4 weeks to be complete -at the end of which the finished soap is lye free and ready to be used.

CPHP -- Crock Pot Hot Soap is soap that is cooked in a crock pot so that all the lye cooks out and the soap is ready to be used after the cook. The soap is harder to manage because the soap is already setting and thickening by the time the cook is over, making it difficult to manage. Soapers say that the soap has to be “glopped” (plopped) into the mold, rather than poured. The great thing about any cooked soap is that after the cook it is ready to use.

CPOP -- Cold Process Oven Process is soap that starts out as cold process soap then put into heavy duty molds and baked in the oven at a very low temperature. At the end of the bake, the soap is ready to be used. Using this method, one has to be careful that the mold can withstand the heat of the oven and does not become a fire hazard.

CS, CSDBHP -- Closed System Double Boiler Hot Process is exactly what it means, the soap is cooked in a pot that is placed within a pot with water (AKA double boiler, bain marie) after trace and the soap is cooked to speed up the saponification process. The pot is kept tightly sealed and cooked. The benefits of this method is that the soap can be left alone and does not need to stirred as often as a cooked method where the pot is kept open. The resulting cooked soap although ready to use will need to be cured for a week or so so that the excess liquid can evaporate and the soap can dry into a usable product.

DB -- Double Boiler soap is soap that after trace is put into a double boiler and cooked. It may be cooked with the lid on the pot or the lid off. Regardless of wether or not the lid is on or off the pot, at the end of the cook the soap is free of lye.

DH -- The direct Heat method calls for the soap to be directly on the heat in a pot. This method means that the mixture needs to be closely monitored so that the soap does not burn or boil over in the pot.

DWCP, DW -- Discounted Water Cold Process. The rationale for taking a perfectly normal cold process soap recipe and deducting some of the water is so that there will be less water to evaporate from the soap, thereby resulting in soap that dries into harder bars sooner than undiscounted soap.

HP -- Hot Process soap is soap that is cooked or baked after coming to trace. This method yields soap that is ready to be used since all the lye has been cooked out of the soap. With this method one can cook the soap on top of the stove in a closed or open pot or in the oven in a pot or in a mold.

MP or M&P -- Melt and Pour soap is soap that most people are familiar with. This is the type of soap one usually sees in local craft stores. This soap is usually called "soap base". Melt and pour soap allows you to be creative since the only thing that is needed is to melt down the soap, color and fragrance it and pour into the mold and let it set. Melt and pour soap is also called "glycerin soap" because during the manufacturing process the glycerin is left in the soap rather than siphoned off and sold as a byproduct. Removing the glycerin and selling it as a byproduct of soap making is typically the end of most commercial soap making processes. The great news is that melt and pour soap base is some of the most gentle soap for the skin and can be used as is right off the shelf.

OHP -- Oven Hot process is cooked soap. The soap is cooked in the oven after reaching trace rather than on top of the stove. The finished product should not have any lye in it and is ready to use after it has cooled for a of couple hours.

Rebatch -- Rebatching is melting soap (non melt & pour soap) that is usually shredded into fine pieces, adding a small amount of liquid to the shredded soap and melting it over low heat or a double boiler (AKA bain marie). The whole point of rebatching soap is to salvage soap that is imperfect, separated, unattractive, or more importantly, to add ingredients (herbs, decoctions, essential oils, curative ingredients, medicinal ingredients) to the soap that would have otherwise been destroyed by the heat of saponification.

Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor,

Saturday, September 1, 2007

4th Anniversary at The Nova Studio

If you have been considering taking a class at The Nova Studio but you have been hesitant, I would suggest attending their 4th Anniversary Party. There will be hourly demos, make and take craft projects, a barter supply table, tasty snack, treats and more!

The event will be on Saturday, September 29th from 1 to 5 pm at the studio, which is located at 24 W. Richmond Avenue, Pt. Richmond, CA. Visit for further details. It is recommend to RSVP to 510-234-5700 so that Lori knows how many people are coming.

I am planning to make a day of it and I hope to see you there!