Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Making a Good Body Oil and Body Scrub

by Shelly

Massage Oil:
What you will need--

-4 ounces of either apricot, sweet almond, jojoba, grape seed, or avocado oils

-50 drops of an essential oil blend or your choice

-Container with a flip top or pump tops
-Bottle 4 ounces of either apricot, sweet almond, jojoba, grape seed, or avocado oils with up to 50 drops of either a relaxation oil blend or a citrus oil blend.


Sweet almond oil or apricot kernel oil provides a good balance of massaging time and absorbency time. Use jojoba or grape seed oils if you want a lighter carrier oil and quick absorbing oil that will create more of a friction and a heated massage from rubbing the oil into the skin. Avocado oil is a great carrier oil to use during the winter months.

Body Scrub:

What you will need--1 cup sea salt or coarse sugar (smoother grain for the body, rougher grains for elbows, knees and feet)-1/2 cup olive, canola, or jojoba oil-50 drops of your choice of essential oil blends.

Stir together the 1/2 cup of olive oil or canola oil which ever oil carrier you are using with this recipe with your essential oil blend of your choice. After the oils are combined, pour in the sea salt or the sugar. Stir with a wooden spoon till completely incorporated. Experiment with different types of salts and sugars till you get the grain you are seeking to use on your body or your feet. Scoop the mixture into a glass jar with a tight fitting lid, especially if you are going to keeping the mixture in your humid bathroom.

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Source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/making-a-good-body-oil-and-body-scrub/

Monday, September 29, 2008

All Natural Moisterizing Coconut Cream Recipe

This is a very natural cream and is good for those who have skin reactions to synthetic ingredients. It must be kept in the refrigerator (treat it like a natural salad dressing) as there are no preservatives in it.

I like to use Extra Virgin Coconut Oil; it is unrefined, usually organic and still has a beautiful scent of coconut. If you don't want a coconut scent, use regular coconut oil-a semi-solid oil (this is not fractionated coconut oil).

Variation: Try rosewater in the place of distilled water.

Oil Phase
¼ cup Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
½ cup Almond Oil
2 teaspoons beeswax pellets (0.2 ounces)

Water Phase
¾ cup Distilled Water
1/8 teaspoon Borax (sodium borate) (optional- but helps with the consistency)

Prepare the Water Phase
-Measure Distilled Water and add to pot
-Measure Borax and add to cold Distilled Water
-Warm the water to about the same temperature as the oils (you can use a candy thermometer or judge for yourself)

Once the two phases are at about the same temperature:

-create a vortex in the water phase with a stick blender or in a blender (you can leave the water in the pot, pour it into another bowl or in the blender, I prefer to use a stick blender and the pot the water is in and then create the vortex )

-slowly pour the melted oils into the vortex of water, continually mixing for about 3-4 minutes. As it cools, keep stirring by hand for another few minutes.

-Pour into containers immediately before it sets up.

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Almond Oil, Beeswax and Borax are available at natural grocery stores.

(borax- best to purchase the cosmetic variety, the impurities have been removed)

Online at http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/cgi-bin/Main.pl?AID=067528&BID=674and http://www.glorybeefoods.com/

Source: http://naturalskinandbodycare.blogspot.com/2007/09/all-natural-moisturizing-cream-with.html

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Herbal Bath Bombs

From Rebecca's Garden (Episode REB-716) on HGTV (http://www.hgtv.com/)

You can purchase bath bombs anywhere from $5 to $10, but why do that when you can custom-blend your own? Here's how.

2 cups baking soda
1 cup citric acid
1 cup corn starch
8 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon borax
1-1/2 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons light oil--like olive, jojoba or almondEssential oil--any desired aroma, such as lavender or chamomile

First, measure out all of the dry ingredients in a big bowl. Once you've mixed them, use a sifter to get out the lumps.

Next, mix all of the wet ingredients together. Start with water, then add a little less than five tablespoons of light oil. Then add a few drops of essential oil to the mixture. Whisk until all wet ingredients are incorporated.

Slowly drizzle the water and oil mixture over the dry ingredients a little at a time, and continue mixing with your hands. It takes a while for the ingredients to absorb into the oil and water.

Keep the ingredients crumbly. You'll know the mixture is wet enough when it can hold its shape after being molded into a ball. If the mixture gets too wet, the citric acid will continue bubbling, which will zap the effervescence.

Mold the mixture into tight, firm sphere shapes. Each batch will make about seven bath bombs. Let dry for 24 to 48 hours. Check them after a couple hours of drying. If they've expanded in size, remold them to their original size.

Once the bath bombs are dry, store them in a decorative bowl or jar. Another option is to wrap them in tissue and cellophane.

Source: http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/herbal-bath-bombs/index.html

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Getting Creative With Natural Soap

Natural Soap has become a popular and useful hobby for many home soap makers. In fact, some novice soap makers have taken to the art like a house on fire and are even looking to become commercially successful. Making natural soap is essentially about mixing lye and water in the correct proportions and adding the right amount of fat to it. The saponification process then takes over and makes a useable soap from unusable ingredients.

However, if you are planning to use your homemade soap as gifts for friends and family or make a business venture of it, then you will need to experiment a bit more. Adding essential oils, scents, colors, flowers and other beauty products is one way to make your homemade soap more appealing. Another way of course is to package it beautifully.

Here are some creative ideas to make your natural soap more appealing.

Colored soaps are a step up from the basic white or off white bars of old. However, if you want to keep your natural soap completely natural then avoid processed food coloring. Instead use colors made from natural products.

Turmeric is a disinfectant and adds a lovely yellow hue to your soap. Alfaalfa powder and chlorophyll impart a gorgeous green color to the soap. Ratanjot lends a pretty purple color and paprika works well for reds and oranges.

Adding an essential oil has the maximum effect on elevating your soap from just another homemade experiment to a coveted beauty product. Essential oils have recognized therapeutic properties and work wonders if used correctly. Since they are highly concentrated you should look at adding no more than a teaspoon to a 400g bar of soap. Rose and lavender are two of the most popular essential oils with soap makers. Avoid citrus oils since they can cause your soap to curdle.

You can add a natural loofah like oatmeal or almonds to your soap. The oatmeal and almonds help to scrub off dead skin leaving your skin smooth.

Adding dried flowers and petals can make your natural soap look extremely pretty. Add a few dried rose petals along with rose essential oil and you can get Cleopatra’s beauty care regime.

If you want to make a soap that moisturizes the skin try adding a carrier oil like jojoba, castor or avocado. Shea butter also works very well.

Once you’ve got your natural soap bars ready, use a paring knife and shave off one side of the bar. You’ll get a pretty wave design in no time at all!

If you plan to use them as gifts then invest in some soap molds. You can get soap molds in many shapes including hearts, roses, circles and many more.

You can even make paper wrapping for the soap bars and then customize the paper with the names of the recipients.

Homemade bars make lovely wedding favors. Customize the wrapping or the bar with the couple’s wedding details and give out as wedding favors.

So, natural soap can be made very exotic and appealing with a little effort on your part.

Source: http://www.making-homemade-soap.com/natural-soap.html

Friday, September 26, 2008

Organic Liquid Lecithin

Botanical Name- Derived from Soy Beans (Glycine max)
Origin- USA
Extraction- Gummed Soybeans
Shelf life- 18-24 months

Notes- No solvents were used in the extraction of this organic liquid Lecithin. It is currently listed as GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) as a multi purpose food additive. Stores well under most conditions but extremes in temperature may cause a loss in quality. Ideal storage conditions are no less than 40 degrees and no higher than 100 degrees. Liquid Lecithin is a thick viscous semi solid resembling molasses and it may become further liquefied using a double boiler, microwave oven, or you may set your container in a pot of simmering water for 10-20 minutes. The line of lecithin offered by Mountain Rose Herbs is suitable for both food and cosmetic purposes.

Color- Brown
Odor- Heavy resembling oil fats
Acetone insolubles- 63.3%
Acid value- 15.7 mg
Hexane insolubles- <0.01%>

Cosmetic Use
Lecithin is an emollient, which is a softening and soothing agent. In addition, it has magnificent moisturizing properties, and helps to hydrate the skin. The phospholipids naturally present in Lecithin are able to attract water from the air, and in doing so, increase hydration. This makes it an excellent additive for restorative creams, or for products designed for mature, dry, or overworked skin. It also has the unique ability to deeply penetrate the skin, and carry substances directly to the cells and the bloodstream. Because of this, it may assist the body in absorbing other properties as well. If a product is created with natural and healing ingredients, then the addition of Lecithin would actually bring those beneficial properties to the cellular level. Lecithin also has emulsifying, stabilizing, thickening, and suspending qualities. With these amazing and varied capabilities, the addition of lecithin could assist in the therapeutic and medicinal properties of your body care products.

Liquid Lecithin may be easily added to your products by simply blending it into your recipe. The amount of Lecithin used depends upon the recipe type and size, and on the product thickness desired. However, a general rule is 1/2-1 Tablespoon for a 19 oz batch of cream. We recommend experimenting with the amount in small batches.

Culinary Use
Made from organic soybeans, our Lecithin is a healthful and invaluable culinary ingredient. Lecithin is utilized throughout the food industry as an emulsifier, thickener, stabilizer, moisturizer, and mild preservative. It is often present in vegan or low fat cooking as an alternative to fat in baked goods, and improves moisture and texture at the same time. It may be added to a variety of baked items including breads, cakes, casseroles, and cookie dough as an anti-caking, pan release, and moisturizing agent. Bakers also employ Lecithin for its ability to help dough rise, create uniformity and suspension in the batter, and to lessen the dough’s tendency to be sticky while kneading. In addition, Lecithin is commonly used for its emulsifying properties in mayonnaise, margarine, shortening, salad dressing, and other water-oil combinations. For the same suspending and emulsifying properties, it is added to various sauces, gravies, soups, nut butters, and gravies. Lecithin is an important ingredient in chocolate, caramels, confectionary coatings for spattering control, to prevent crystallization, and as an emulsifier. In addition, it is also wetting, dispersing, and emulsifying tool for powdered products, such as cake mixes, cocoa powder, and instant powder mixes.

Medicinal Applications
Lecithin is a naturally occurring phospholipid, and is an excellent source of choline. Lecithin physically is made in our liver, and is necessary for every cell in our bodies. Without choline, the membranes of our cells would harden, which would prevent nutrients from entering and leaving the cell. Lecithin also helps cholesterol deposits from forming in our blood vessels, and is involved in the process of moving cholesterol through our bodies. Soy Lecithin chemically binds with cholesterol, and in this manner reduces the amount of cholesterol in the bloodstreams, and may lower cholesterol levels. It also assists with the neurotransmitters crucial for memory, muscle control, and brain function. Research suggests that Lecithin may be helpful for repairing liver damage, and protecting against liver damage. In addition, it may assist with the following:

Improves memory and cognitive functions
Menopause and post-menopausal conditions - (contains estrogen like compounds)
Poor nutrition and anemia
Neurologic disorders
Cardiovascular health
Improves energy and physical performance
Assists with the absorption of Vitamins A, D, E, and K
Eases digestion
Promotes overall health and physical performance
Because of its many health and cosmetic benefits, this is truly an amazing ingredient. Lecithin may be easily added to your culinary or cosmetic recipes. We recommend that you try this wonderful product yourself, as it may prove to be a key ingredient for your overall health and well-being.

Although no drug interactions have been found, we recommend speaking with your healthcare practitioner before incorporating lecithin into your diet. Lecithin may cause mild gastrointestinal upset, loose stools, or diarrhea.

Source: http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/lecithin_liquid.html

Thursday, September 25, 2008

How to Use Herbs and Essential Oils

When using essential oils, you must dilute a small amount in a base of some kind. Water can be used with essential oils (E.O.'s) for baths, carpet freshner, cleaning, hair rinse, or room deoderizer, but it must be shaken before each use. There is a fragrance oil modifier sold which allows the oil/water blend to mix together as well.

Another way to use essential oils for skin applications is to add E.O.'s to another oil which is called a "carrier oil". Carrier oils are: Almond oil, Apricot oil, Grapeseed oil, Jojoba oil, or Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Palm oil, Safflower oil, Coconut oil, and Castor or Mineral oil.

See Essential Oils: "Uses and Benefits" below, and a Recipe for Linen Spray.

Essential oils are used for therapeutic application or inhalation.Aromatherapy is the use of pure essential oils to enhance physical and mental well-being. E.O.'s are aromatic, highly concentrated distilled essences of plants, roots, flowers, leaves, berries, seeds, gums, bark, resins, or stems. They contain natural hormones, vitamins, antibiotics, and antiseptics. Essential oils are also called volatile oils because they evaporate easily in air, they are soluble in vegetable oil, partially soluble in alcohol, and not soluble in water.When using these oils, remember they are highly concentrated and caution must be taken.

Follow these guidelines when using essential oils.

*Do not use oils full strength...Always dilute them.

*Do not use near the eyes.

*Do not touch your face or mucus membranes if your hands have been in direct contact with an essential oil.

*Keep oils away from children and out of their reach.

*Be careful using essential oils for children. If you do, then reduce the concentration of the essential oil by half or more.

*If pregnant, be cautious. Some oils are not suited for women who are pregnant and can be dangerous. Make sure to research before use.

*Avoid sun exposure when using citrus oils such as bergamot, grapefruit or orange oil because it increases your skin's sensitivity to the sun.

*When you use essential oils or fragrance oils to perk up potpourri or for a room freshener, make sure it has no contact with your furniture. It will cause damage. Oils should not be placed in metal, tin or plastic containers.

*Always use glass.See below for some of the ways in which herbal remedies can be used.

Essential Oils: Uses and Benefits

Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) ItalyRefreshing. Good as a room freshener. Skin: Helps with eczema, psoriasis, acne and wounds. Physical: Valuable antiseptic for urinary tract. Aids in digestion. Mental: Uplifting antidepressant. Helpful for anxiety.

Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus) China E. globulus is best known for its respiratory effects and relief for congestion. It is highly antimicrobial and a must have for the winter months.Use it in a diffuser to keep colds away. Stimulates circulation and warms the body, increases concentration, and is useful for relieving rheumatic aches and pains. Dabbed on with a q-tip, it can help stop the irritation of a big bite. A good insect repellent and treatment for lice and athletes foot.It has a dominating scent but blends well with pine, lemon, lime, cedarwood, bergamot & tea tree. Use at half strength as a diffuser for children's rooms.

Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) China Regulates hormonal system, good for PMS, heavy menstrual cycles and menopause. Diuretic: Assists with diabetes and urinary infections. Astringent: Stems bleeding. Use in massage, perfume and bath. Emotions: Tonic to nervous system, lifts spirits, reduces stress.Skin: Maximizes benefits of skin cleanser, lotion or moisturizer. Brings color to skin with circulation. Good for eczema, burns, shingles.

Grapefruit (USA) Lymphatic stimulant. Alleviates water retention, obesity and cellulite. Stimulates bile to digest fats. Aids in drug withdrawal. Emotions: Uplifting and reviving. Euphoric: Relieves Pre Menstrual Syndrome and jet lag. Skin: Good for oily, congested skin.

Jasmine (Jasminium grandiflorum)Jasmine Absolute: Aphrodisiac. Skin: Use for scars, stretch marks. Physical: Uterine tonic for menstrual pain. Use during labor, birth and postnatal depression. Good for male disorder, enlarged prostate. Superb hormone balance. Helps with impotence and frigidity. Mental: Valuable for severe depression. Builds confidence. Spirtualizes depression. Develops artistic senses.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Bulgaria A great stress reliever! Sedative action to heart, lowers high blood pressure. Helps insomnia. Pain relief for headaches. Nice in steam and bath. Massage on stomach during painful menstrual cycles. Helps in childbirth. Emotions: Balances the central nervous system, soothes the spirit, relieves anger, tension, hyperactivity. Great for stress. Balances emotions. Skin: Promotes new cell growth. Good for acne, burns, eczema. Good hair tonic. Chemical and Nutrient Content: (flowers) Essential oil, geraniol, linalol 1-linalyl acetate. Actions and Uses: Relieves stress and depression, and is beneficial for the skin. Good for burns, headaches, psoriasis, and skin problems.

Lemon (Citrus limonum) USA Benefits both the immune and lymphatic system. Cools fever and relieves sore throats, colds. Good for kidneys and liver. Emotions: Produces clarity of thought. Refreshing: Use in massage, bath, and diffuser.

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) India. Aids in recovery from illness. Encourages appetite. Massage on aching muscles-reduces lactic acid and stimulates circulation. Good for jet lag. Great foot deodorant in footbath. Emotions: Stimulating, energizing for states of exhaustion. Lifts spirits. Skin: Tones skin. Promotes skins elasticity after dieting. Balances oily/acne condition. Chemical and Nutrient Content: Essential oils, citronellal, methylneptenone, terpene, terpene alcohol. Actions and Uses: Has astringent and tonic properties. Good for the skin and nails. Comments: Used in perfumes and other products as a fragrance.

Orange (Citrus Sinensis) Spain. Orange is an uplifting, refreshing oil that is used to aid in digestion, flatulence & nausea. It relieves stress and anxiety. Sweet orange oil will help with colic in babies and reduce fever and headaches.Orange blends nicely with many other oils and can be used in home fragrance products. Photosensitizer -use with caution. Offers calming action on stomach. Good for diarrhea and constipation. Lowers cholesterol. Encourages appetite. Aids in absorption of Vitamin C. Use in massage oil, bath or air spray. Emotions: Spreads sunshine on gloomy thoughts and depression. Brings feelings of joy. Skin: Offers sweating action for congested skin.

Peppermint, USA. Cooling when hot, warming when cold. Use in steams for colds, asthma, fevers. Important digestive for food poisoning, vomiting, diarrhea, nausea, travel sickness. Analgesic for headaches. Emotions: It's cooling nature relieves anger, hysteria and tension. Helps concentration. Use in diffuser. Skin: Capillary constriction relieves itching, inflammation and sunburn. Peppermint: Chemical and Nutrient Content: Essential Oils, menthol, menthone, methyl acetate, tannic acid, terpenes, Vitamin C. Action and Uses: Enhances digestion by increasing stomach acidity. Slightly anesthetizes mucous membranes and the gastrointestinal tract. Useful for chills, colic, diarrhea, headache, heart trouble, indigestion, nausea, poor appetite, rheumatism, and spasms. Comments: Caution: May interfere with iron absorption.

Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) Spain. The Herb of "Remembrance, Friendship and Love". Analgesic: Clears headaches. Pain relieving for gout, arthritis and overworked muscles. Valuable heart tonic. Normalizes low blood pressure. Good effect on anemia, decongestive system. Emotions: Enlivens the brain, clears head, aids memory. Good for weakness, exhaustion, lethargy. Use in diffuser. Skin: Scalp stimulant to relieve dandruff, encourages hair growth.

Rosemary: (leaves)Chemical and Nutrient Content: Bitters, borneol, camphene, camphor, carnosic acid, carnosol, cineole, essential oils, pinene, resin, tannins.Actions and Uses: Fights bacteria, relaxes the stomach, stimulates circulation and digestion, and acts as an astringent and decongestant. Improves circulation to the brain. Also helps prevent liver toxicity, and has anticancer and anti-tumor properties. Good for headaches, high and low blood pressure, circulatory problems, and menstrual cramps.Comments: Makes a good food preservative.More Action and Uses: Enhances digestion by increasing stomach acidity. Slightly anesthetizes mucous membranes and the gastrointestinal tract. Useful for chills, colic, diarrhea, headache, heart trouble, indigestion, nausea, poor appetite, rheumatism, and spasms.Comments: Caution: May interfere with iron absorption.

If you have fresh rosemary, here are more uses:
Use in bath to stimulate blood circulation and as a facial steam. Make a rinse for dark hair.
Decorating with Rosemary adds a fragrant base when woven into wreaths and garlands.
Use the leaves in potpourri. Place sprigs in linen closets and drawers as it is an insect repellent.
Burn branches in the fireplace for a pleasant aroma. Scatter on barbecue to discourage insects.

Tea Tree Oil (Australia) Melaleuca alternifolia Tea tree has gained immense recognition as the strongest anti fungal, anti viral, and anti bacterial oil in aromatherapy.It's uses are recognized world-wide for the successful treatment of a whole range of conditions. It can be diffused or used neat and is a very popular addition to skin care formulations for it's germ-killing properties. Diffuse it during cold season to keep germs from spreading.Use it in masks and toners to combat acne.Use it in lip balms to fight cold sores. Used in a balm, tea tree can quickly heal wounds and keep infection from setting in.Use it in mouth washes to treat oral disease.Tea tree blends well with lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, niaouli, spikenard, sandalwood, and vetiver. Using this oil neat can cause some people skin irritation. Tea tree oil should not be taken internally (swallowed), however, it makes a excellent gargle/mouth rinse for sore throats, mouth ulcers, gum infections, and bad breath. Use about 5 drops in a glass of warm water. You can dilute tea tree oil with distilled water, vegetable oil, primrose oil, or vitamin E oil when using on the skin if full strength irritates your skin.There is so much to write about tea tree oil and it's benefits and uses, that I have decided to devote an entire page to discuss it further. Use the link below.Learn more about the amazing uses of tea tree

Thyme Parts Used: Berries, flowers, leaves. Chemical and Nutrient Content: B-complex vitamins, borneol, cavacrol, chromium, Essential Oils, fluorine, gum, iron, silicon, tannins, thiamine, thyme oil, thymol, triterpenic acids, Vitamins C and D.Actions and Uses: Eliminates gas and reduces fever, headache, and mucus. Has strong antiseptic properties. Lowers cholesterol levels. Good for croup and other respiratory problems, and for fever, and liver disease. Eliminates scalp itching and flaking caused by candidiasis.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) "Garden Thyme"Thyme baths are said to be helpful for neurasthenia, rheumatic problems, paralysis, bruises, swellings, and sprains. (Herb)Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)"Mother of thyme, creeping thyme, mountain thyme or wild thyme."As a bath additive, made from the herb decoction, stimulates the flow of blood toward the surface of the body and alleviates nervous exhaustion.

Ylang Ylang (Canaga odorata) Indonesia. Soothing properties. Balances hormones. Acts as tonic to womb. Helps with sexual disorders. Good for high blood pressure and insomnia. Emotions: Antidepressant, brings joy. Eases feelings of anger, anxiety, shock, panic, and fear.Skin: Balances sebum flow. Stimulates scalp for hair growth. Sweet smell, is used in perfumes.Ylang Ylang has an intense sweet floral scent reminiscent of the very expensive Jasmine. Extraction is from the flower (steam distilled) and the Aromatherapy benefit is Euphoria.



20 OZ. Distilled Water
1 1/2 OZ. 100 Proof Vodka or Grain Alchohol
1/4 OZ. Essential Oil or Fragrance Oil


Mix oil with Vodka. Slowly add in water stirring constantly. Fill a spray bottle with mixture. Use on pillows and linen closets. Lavender makes a "relaxing" pillow spray!To convert ounces to teaspoons, go to measurement conversions. For Measurement Conversions, click here!

Herbal preparations are available in several different forms. This includes bulk herbs, medicinal herb blends, teas, oils, tinctures, fluid extracts, and tablets or capsules. Here are some of the ways these can be used.

Source: Bella Handmade Soap http://www.bellahandmadesoap.com/essentialoils.html

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Soap Business Marketing Tips You Can Use

By Al Bullington

A soap business is a natural outgrowth of a soap making hobby. If you enjoy making handcrafted soap, you may wonder if you could turn your hobby efforts into a money making venture. For sure there is a steady and growing demand for high quality natural soap. But selling soap at a profit can be a challenge but it certainly can be done.

What About Craft Shows?

One popular way to try your hand at selling your soap is the craft show route. This is one of the easiest ways to start a soap business and In my opinion it's probably the best way to start. One of the chief advantages of this marketing method is you can put your products in front of a large crowd of people in a short period of time. With this large exposure, you can potentially sell a bunch of product in just a day or a weekend. With just a minimum of equipment you can put together a display of your goods and you're in business.

The real trick to making money in craft shows is to get in the better shows. All the better shows have a jury process that requires an application and usually pictures of your display. You can build your experience quickly with smaller local shows and learn to sell while you're gaining experience.

Other Marketing Options

Another beauty of craft shows is the follow up sales. You can build a customer list of people who probably would respond to a mailing of future offers. This is very valuable. A mailing list together with a brochure and a little catalog could quickly build a little business where you can just ship out orders without going anywhere. As long as you provide your customers with your address and phone number, you'll continue to get orders.

There are huge numbers of little gift shops and businesses out there just looking for unusual items to market. If you can sell at a discount to a retail price, these businesses will order in larger quantities if you produce enough for wholesale orders.

The options for marketing soap are many. You can market direct to spas, guest houses, bed and breakfasts with customer labels. You can sell from a website. Team up with a gift basket seller. The possibilities are many. Puzzled about the best ways to make and market soap? Need more information? Visit our site to learn more about starting a soap business

We invite you to visit http://www.soapbizkit.com/ for resources to answer all your soap business questions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Al_Bullington

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Light & Luscious Body Souffle Recipe from Majestic Mountain Sage

Yield: Makes about 32 fl oz.


9 grams Stearic Acid
22 grams Emulsifying Wax
9 grams Liquid Glycerin
46 grams Golden Jojoba Oil
20 grams Avocado Butter
15 grams Kukui Oil
5 grams Vitamin E Acetate
10 grams White Cocoa Butter
813 grams distilled water
2 grams Silk Powder
9.45 grams Germaben II


measuring cups or glass beakers
transfer pipettes
immersion blender


Weigh and mix all ingredients but Germaben II and Fragrance. Heat in microwave until melted. Blend. Add Germaben II and Fragrance oil when temperature drops below 175 degrees F. Mix well. Pour into bottles.

Source: http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php3?.State=Display&id=158

Monday, September 22, 2008

Embedments in Cold Process Soap

If you are someone who makes soap by the cold process technique and are looking for something different to add to your soap then here maybe something for you to read. It is how to add embedments to your cold process.


If you have tried this technique, please let us know how it turned out. We would like to hear your experience,

Sunday, September 21, 2008

How to Make Soap Petals

Do you love the time when you can take a long soothing bath?  Why not add something different to your bathing experience?  Then maybe you should add soap petals to your expereince.  Even thought you can purchase these in the stores, Civita Dyer of ehow says that you can make these easily at home.  Her recipe, How to Make Soap Petals seem very easy to make and could be made in a very short time.

If you are one that takes a shower instead of soaking in the bath tub, soap petals would be a unique gift idea for a bridal shower or a birthday gift or even adding it to a gift basket.  Civita suggests that soap petals can be a soft and fragrance addition to your bathroom or powder room. 

So why not make a batch of these soap petals and put them to good use today.  If you do not need them immediately you can store them in a zip lock bag until you do.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

MP Soap making Tips, Tricks & Recipes

If you are a melt and pour (aka soap crafting) soap maker and you are looking for some tricks, then here is a link you may want to take a look at.


If there are any tips that are not listed and you would like to share with everyone, please let me know and I will post them.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Making Swirl or Swiss Swirl Soaps (Melt & Pour)

These look a lot more difficult that they really are! The key is to watch the temperatures of the soap carefully, spray with alcohol, and roll the soap whilst it is still warm.

To make these soaps you will need a vertical cylinder mould. You can use an empty Pringles™ Can, half of a flower presentation tube or a suitably sized and cut piece of PVC down pipe. If using the Pipe or flower tube, you will need to ensure you seal one end really firmly so that the soap will not leak out.

I make my "spirals" and "scrolls" on a tray that takes exactly 250g of soap to make it the correct thickness just check the measurements of the tray and maybe have a trial run. It is too thick or thin, it is easily melted and re-poured.

You'll Need:
1 kilo Melt & Pour Soap Base
A Cylindrical Mould
2 Contrasting Non-bleeding Melt & Pour ColoursFragranceAlcohol for Spritzing and your usual Melt and Pour Soap equipment

Prepare the mould by ensuring it is clean and dry and measure the height. It is best to work with a tube mould the same height as the tray measures at the smallest side. If it is a little too high, cut the excess neatly from the top. Alternatively, you can of course you two smaller tubes.

Melt 750g (approximately) Soap Base that you will use for the main colour (not the spiral, this is the back ground colour) in microwave safe container.

Colour and fragrance this and cover either with plastic wrap or place a tray or lid over the top and allow it to cool slightly, but not quite as far as syrup.

Melt 250g approximately of the Soap Base that (my tray measures 34cm x 25cm and holds 250g comfortably) you will use for the spiral. I like dark spirals on pale logs, but you may prefer to contrast in reverse proportions. Colour and fragrance the soap, and whilst still hot, quickly, but carefully pour into the flat tray. Check to make sure the flat tray is sitting on a level work surface. Spritz lightly with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any air bubbles.

When the tray of soap is still warm, but set firmly (You will find the centre of the tray is the last place to set, so just give it a little touch with your finger tip to check whether it is ready or not) slide a plastic knife or spatula around the perimeter of the tray to release the soap and then carefully peel it away from one corner and place on the bench.

Immediately you have done this you must work with the soap to make the spiral or it will become cold and lose its flexibility.

Cut the rectangle down the centre (on the short side) to make two smaller rectangles. Now gently roll each rectangle into a swiss roll ensuring you keep the layers slightly apart and evenly spaced. Take care not to roll too tightly. The roll should slide easily into the cylinder mould with a little space at the edges.

Spritz the spiral with alcohol and place into the mould.

Carefully steady the vertical mould and spiral with one hand, and gently pour the bulk of the liquid soap base around the spiral until you have filled the mould.

Allow to set for a good couple of hours in winter, much longer in summer, and then slice into rounds.


TIP: To make Soap Scrolls to give as Graduation gifts or to announce the Birth of a Baby etc, roll the spiral much tighter (no need for spritzing) and allow to set. They look very nice when you ease out each end like a Parchment Certificate and tie with a classy ribbon or cord.

Source: http://www.aussiesoapsupplies.com.au/Making-Spirals-Swiss-Roll-Soaps-p-14.html

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Solid Perfume Sticks Recipe

This is a really great way to carry a small perfume with you wherever you go.

Although the ingredients are the same, the proportion of oils have changed so the perfume is more solid and can withstand the use of being dispense through the tubes.

Yield: Makes approximately 5 tubes.


2 teaspoons beeswax beads
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 tablespoon sweet almond oil
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of perfume fragrance or essential oil


Melt beeswax beads and coconut oil together. Remove from heat and add sweet almond oil and fragrance. Pour into 1/4 oz. lip balm tubes and close right away. Let cool completely. To use, roll up a bit of the tube and rub on the inside of your wrist, behind your ears, elbows and/or knees.

For more interesting recipes, check out Lynden House's website at http://www.lyndenhouse.net/recipes.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Flashpoint Charts on Fragrance & Essential Oils

If you make soap by the hot process method and you need to know the flashpoints of the fragrance oils you have purchased from a particular company, I have found the following links:


For these companies, they list the flashpoint with the description of the fragrance oil they sell:

* http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/fragranceoils_2.html

* http://www.thesoapdish.com/fragrance.htm

* http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/

* http://sweetcakes.com/

* http://nwsoapworks.com/FragranceDescriptions.htm

If you are interested in the flashpoints for essential oils, I learned from Deanna Sauter who I took a Hot Process Soapmaking recommends:

* http://www.dreamingearth.com/flashpoints.html

If anyone out there makes their soap by the hot process method and may have additional websites that you would like to add to this list, please let me know and I will add it to the list. Any information will help. Thanks.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Bath Bomb Cupcakes - Instructions

Bath Bomb Recipe
1 part Citric Acid
2 parts Baking Soda

SLS (for lots of Bubbles in the Bath) or Bentonite Clay (makes a harder bomb)

Example Recipe:
4 oz. Citric Acid
8 oz. Baking Soda
1 oz SLS
.25 oz. Salty Carmel Ice Cream fragrance
5 drops La Bomb colorantWitch Hazel in a Spray bottle

Mix Citric Acid and Baking Soda so there are no clumps. Add the SLS or Bentonite Clay. Mix in the fragrance and color. If consistency is not a dry pie dough consistency, spritz on witch hazel until dry powdered product easily sticks together.

For the frosting:
3 Tablespoons Meringue Powder/Powdered Egg Whites
1 lb. (By weight) Powdered Sugar
5 Tablespoons warm water
1/4 tsp Cream of Tartar

few drops Butter Cream Lip Flavor
few drops La Bomb Color

Mix Meringue into warm water first. Add cream of tartar and Powdered sugar. Whip on medium speed for 4 to 7 minutes. Frosting will form stiff peaks and harden within an hour (or so!). To make it smell better, use a dab of Butter cream flavor oil. We used Rosy Pink Lab colors to color our "frosting."

For pictures of this cute bath bomb, go to http://soap-queen.blogspot.com/search?q=cupcake+bath+bomb.

Source: http://soap-queen.blogspot.com/search?q=cupcake+bath+bomb

Coloring for Handmade Soaps

By Sarah Freeland

There are several different soap coloring options that are available to soap makers and crafters. The first types of dyes that you can use to color your soap are natural soap colorants. These soap colorants use natural ingredients to tint your soap. For example, Turmeric can be used to give your soap a golden glow, Moroccan Red Clay can be used to give your soap a brick red color, and alfalfa can be used to give your soap a green color. Coloring options also include micas. Micas can be classified as both a natural colorant as well as a manufactured colorant. This is because the basic mica is mined form natural sources, however, it is then coated with laboratory created coloring agents on one side to create a shimmering effect. Micas are best suited for coloring clear soaps. In addition to these two soap coloring options you can also use FD&C colorants. These colorants are made in a laboratory and they do not come from natural sources. Because these colorants can be mass produced they are generally inexpensive and widely available. When selecting a soap pigment you will want to take into consideration several factors. First you will want to choose a soap coloring option that is right for the type of soap you plan on making.

Secondly , you want to a coloring agent that is right for the product image that you are creating. And finally you want to select a coloring agent that will produce the type of color and the shade that you are interesting in.

For more information on how to make homemade soap as well as soap making recipes visit the http://www.pureandnaturalsoaps.com./Check out the soap making forum to discuss techniques, share ideas and post your favorite soap and candle making recipes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Freeland http://EzineArticles.com/?Handmade-Soap-Coloring-Options&id=376798 and http://theadorabartra.tiltblog.se/2007/10/02/handmade-soap-coloring-options/

Monday, September 15, 2008

Tips When Making Your Own Aromatherapy Products

by Mike Selvon

Why are you still paying so much money for those aromatherapy products you see in the stores? Everywhere you go there is another new scented candle, some body lotions and even soaps that all claim to be an aromatherapy product. But how much of that advertising is just hype? People are moving away from pharmaceutical companies and moving towards holistic medicines. However, sometimes the products marketed as aromatherapy are really nothing more than hype. The best bet is to make it yourself and then you know what is inside the bottle.

Most bath salts, lotions and candles all start off with a base, plus aromatherapy essential oils. It is the oils, of course, that give the product its scent. Different scents will illicit a different response from your body. Some people find lavender to be very effective in calming their mood and producing a feeling of tranquility.

Peppermint oil is used to boost energy levels and give the body a wake-up call. Knowing which scent does what is essential information to have and will determine how you make your body lotions, pillar candles and body massage oils.

Aromatherapy products, besides the essential oil, have a base in which they are mixed. Soap would have a glycerin base whereas a lotion would have neutral scented base so that you could add whatever scents appeal to you, and bath salts have a neutral smelling special salt that dissolves in water better. There are two things to watch out for when making your own aromatic products.

The first is that you never use the wrong kind of essential oil for your skin. There are some types of oils that can irritate skin so you cannot use fragrant oil meant for an oil burner on your skin. It may be too overpowering.

The second thing to keep in mind is that not all bases are alike. Take for example the bath salts. You do not want to use table salt instead of Epsom salt. Some finely ground sea salts work wonders. The best purchase you can make before you start whipping out batches of body lotions, bath salts and candles are aromatherapy books.

There are some great home kits on the market that can help you by providing the basics and giving you step by step directions on how to make your own aromatherapy products. If everything turns out well, then you may find a way to make extra money by selling these homemade delights.

Source: http://www.making-homemade-soap.com/aromatherapy.html

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Bath Sachets

Perfume your bath with potpourri by tossing in a 'tea bag' of fragrant flowers or herbs. Make sure your herbs are large enough so they won't wash out of the bags. To give these bath 'tea bags' as a gift, just pack them in pretty jars decorated with dried flowers or herbs, and attach a pretty ribbon with a sprig of dried flowers tied into the bow. Or you can put them in a basket with dried flowers or sprigs of dried herbs glued here and there, and woven with ribbon. These look attractive displayed with small guest soaps and loose potpourri.


Cheese Cloth or loose-weave muslin, cut into "Circles"

Cup the cheesecloth Circle in your hand, wrong side up, and place a mound of potpourri on it. Gather together, then tie with some ribbon. Make the ribbon ends long enough so you can make a loop to hang the sachet from the faucet. If you hang the bag so the warm running water runs through it, it will increase the perfume of the water. Then toss the sachet in the bath water.

Bath Potpourri Suggestions:

1 cup dried rose petals
Pinch dried lavender
1 tbsp grated and dried lemon peel
1/2 cup dried rosemary spikes
1/2 cup dried pine needles and tips of branches
Several dried marigolds
Pinch dried thyme
1 tbsp dried lavender
2 tbsp dried chamomile
1/2 cup dried sage
Pinch dried marjoram
Equal parts dried roses, lilac and carnations
You can also purchase bags of already made-up Potpourri in different

Source: http://oshealth.homestead.com/index46.html

Friday, September 12, 2008

How to Make Tranquility Bath Tea

As child, I remember those Calgon commericals that had the line of "Calgon take me away!".  Well I do not not know if Calgon is on the market anymore, but you can sure create something more

In this Tranquilty Bath Tea by a Contributing Writer from eHow, combines alot of different herbs from lavender to chamomile that would make any worries go down the drain.  So if you want to feel more freshed and revjunated, try this bath tea recipe from ehow.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Soap Scroll Soap

I found this interesting melt and pour soap project that I wanted to share:

Yield: Makes 2 scrolls

Supplies needed:
9x11 pan or small tray
freezer paper
1 lb of clear M&P soap base
1 tsp of water
fragrance oil

handmade paper and raffia

Line the pan with the freezer paper leaving a small lip around the edges. Fit the freezer paper down into the four corners making sure it's smooth. Place the pan on a level surface or else the soap will roll to the lowest end and you will not get an even thin sheet. Slowly melt your soap base in the microwave, making sure not to boil it. Add your water, fragrance, color and optional herbs. The water will make the soap more pliable so that it can be rolled like a jelly roll.

Slowly pour the liquefied soap base into the lined pan starting in the middle. The soap will spread out filling the bottom of the pan. Use only 1/2 of the mixture, and reserve the other half for another scroll (or melt only half the soap at a time). Carefully watch and wait for the soap to harden. Once the soap is firm to the touch, pull up one of the 9" sides and start to roll. (We used latex gloves so that it would not show our finger prints). If you wait too long the soap will not roll, so timing is everything!

Once the soap has been rolled into the log, roll it into some wax paper and let it harden further.The wax paper will help to keep it in shape and prevent any sweating. Once hard, trim the two edges and finish with handmade paper and raffia. Makes 2 - 8 oz soap scrolls which can be left whole or cut in half.

We used green tea and lime fragrance oils, red and green liquid soap colorants and dried green tea for our herb.

If you are interested in more of Ponte Verda's soap making projects go to http://www.pvsoap.com/.

Source: http://www.pvsoap.com/recipe_soapscrolls.htm

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Choosing antioxidants and preservatives

What are anti-oxidants and preservatives?

In order to understand what anti-oxidants and preservatives are for, and how they should be used, it is important to first "digest" a few preliminary concepts.

First of all, there is a lot of misleading, and often deliberately wrong information being circulated among natural skin care makers. Creating truly natural, skin friendly cosmetics requires a long and complex learning curve, (which goes well beyond the common habit of "posting a question to the mailing list"), together with a more responsible approach to selecting all the ingredients for handmade skin care. Leaving out synthetic preservatives, and then maybe adding synthetic fragrances "because my customers want a peach scented lotion", doesn't automatically guarantee being in the position to affirm that this product is "completely natural and therefore more skin friendly". Rather, it is not uncommon to find that the skin un-friendliness of some commercial (and handmade) products is directly related to the use of inappropriate fragrancing agents.

Secondly, these misleading statements have regrettably brought forward further confusion about nature, application scope and usage of some important ingredients. In particular, it is sadly common to hear the terms anti-oxidant and preservative being used interchangeably, with frustrating consequences especially for those who find themselves unwillingly opening a "can of worms" by bringing up the subject on some mailing lists. The truth is, anti-oxidants and preservatives are two completely different "beasts", with different nature, different application scope and different usage criteria.


Anti-oxidants are substances that inhibit oxidation. Animal fats and vegetable oils are made up by chemical structures called triglycerides, where one molecule of glycerol is bonded with three molecules of fatty acids, which in turn consist of hydrocarbon chains of variable length. Oils and fats also contain variable amounts of free fatty acids - i.e, fatty acid molecules that are not bonded with any glycerol molecule. The fatty acids in oils and fats can combine with oxidising agents (such as oxigen, for instance, which is present in the air and in water), and oxidise. In other words, the oil (or fat) may turn rancid. Adding an anti-oxidant helps stop or slow down this natural oxidation process, and prolongs the shelf life of the oils. Two "classes" of anti-oxidants are available for manufacturers of natural skin care products:

Substances that, by inhibiting oxidation, effectively prolong the shelf life of oils, and therefore keep oil-based applications fresher for longer periods. These include several types of rosemary extracts, the best known being Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, or ROE, and also citrus seed extracts. Because citrus seed extracts can have negative side effects, rosemary extract is usually preferred. ROE is always best added to the oils before heating, as it also has the effect of impairing dissociation of the fatty acid molecules caused by higher temperatures.
Substances that protect skin cells from the damaging effects of oxidisation, and are typically added as active ingredients. These include Vitamin C, Vitamin E and beta-carotene.

Whenever formulating a new product, it is important to establish whether an anti-oxidant is needed for one or the other reason, and consequently choose the most appropriate. Most importantly, remember that anti-oxidants have no effect on fungi, bacteria, yeast and other living things that may corrupt emulsions and any other water-based cosmetic.


Preservatives are substances that kill bacteria and fungi (or at the very minimum make it very difficult for "living things" to survive), and have no effect on the shelf life of the oils. Bacteria, fungi, yeast and other potentially dangerous microorganisms typically avoid waterless compounds (such as balms, salves, pomades and oil-only blends) and also substances with a relatively high pH (such as soap), but thrive in humid environments. For this reason, soaps and oil-based skin care applications do not need preservatives - but unlike these, creams, lotions and any other compound where water is present require adding a preservative if the shelf life and integrity of the product need to be extended further than 2 or 3 weeks.

It is important to understand that the efficacy of preservatives relies, by definition, on their ability to kill live cells; in other words, their toxicity is an unavoidable component of their reason of being. A number of natural extracts, plants and essential oils contain substances that have the power to effectively kill bacteria, yeast and fungi; however, in many cases these substances are or can be toxic for humans, too. A typical example are citrus or grapefruit seed extracts: although these have natural antimicrobial properties, some of their constituents are thought to be responsible for life-threatening hormonal imbalances. Also, citrus seed extracts are not approved for cosmetic use in Europe and in Japan, and are therefore not an option in those countries.

In the last few months, a new type of natural preservative has appeared on the market. Similar in look, feel and scent to an essential oil blend, and made by combining active fractions of essential oils, this new preservative system seems to have the potential to address the needs of those skin care manufacturers who want their products to be completely natural - yet, being such a new product, some time might be required before its efficacy and possible contraindications are proven once for all.

Among the synthetic preservatives available for handmade skin care products, paraben-based systems seem to be particularly controversial. A large number of articles, books and so-called "expert" opinions point to paraben-based preservative systems as being responsible for the "skin unfriendliness" of many industrial products. However, in-depth medical and scientifical researches show that paraben-based preservatives are by far less dangerous, both for the skin, and for the environment, than most other types of preservatives, such as for instance those that fall into the "formaldehyde donors" category.


When it comes to choosing the right preservative for your lovingly handmade skin care treats, deciding whether you want to rely on a completely natural system or not is a matter of personal choice, which requires a more thorough approach than just "following the trend", and should never be taken lightly. In general, the safest and wisest option is to purchase preservatives from reputable suppliers, who can offer advice on what to choose, why and how to use it (and this, just as with any other ingredient, for that matter!)

As already mentioned, anti-oxidants and preservatives are not unavoidable in skin care preparations; if you are making creams, lotions and balms for personal and family use, and if you are prepared to take on full responsibility for possibly negative side effects, then you can certainly avoid them completely, and be sure that your preparations are just as natural as possible.

On the other hand, preservatives and anti-oxidants can hardly be avoided if you want to sell your products. We have already hinted to the fact the debate on preservatives and anti-oxidants, especially among those who aim for "natural cosmetics", is fierce - and hot are also the discussions about synthetic fragrances versus essential oils, or natural soap versus Melt & Pour bases. We believe that the only way to placate the altercations and give both manufacturers and consumers the power to decide for themselves what is good for them, is to fully understand the implications of using each ingredient, and commit ourselves to appropriate "market niches" based on what we have responsibly and consciously chosen.

Where to buy preservatives for natural skin care

Source: http://www.soapnaturally.org/natural_skincare/preservatives.html

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Create your own Cold Process Soap Recipes Quickly and Easily

Recipes featured on this site consist of Mortar and Pestle's most successful and best loved soaps as chosen by our faithful testers; friends and family. They are offered as examples of the many variations of ingredients you can use to craft the most luxury soaps for yourself and your family.

Rather than use a particular recipe to craft the soaps featured here, they were created as I went along.

Things to consider are

1) oils you already have on hand
2) what specific oils will offer to a bar of soap
3) size of batch to calculate how much oil will be required
4) type of soap bar - bath, shampoo, pet friendly, soothing, etc. - and last, but not least
5) you need your favorite on-line or manual lye calculator.

Even if you find the "perfect" soap recipe, you may not have all the oil ingredients on hand. It will be much easier to take ingredient suggestions offered in a formulation and apply them toward creating a similar recipe using ingredients you do have and what you're looking for in a finished product.

There are many oils that have the same or like properties, so you can often substitute one oil for another and still produce a very fine bar of soap. For instance, when we ran low on coconut oil, we used palm kernel oil as a substitute for its hardening and lathering properties. This produced an awesome soap with thick creamy lather. Several of our most successful formulations have contained the least variety of oils, including one of our favorites - with only olive, palm, and coconut.


1.When the soapmaking bug hits, check your kitchen shelves oils you have on hand and make a selection based on availability (obviously) and what benefits or properties they will offer to a bar of soap. See Oils and their Properties - Ingredients for descriptions. Of course, you want to make sure you have enough lye as well.

2. Now you're ready for a recipe. You already have an idea of what oils you "want" to add and it helps to know the total weight of the oil or oils you will "need" based on what your soap mold(s) will hold.

For instance, we have two "20-bar" wood soap molds. Filling each mold requires more than 60 ounces of a combination of oils, 23-26 ounces of distilled water/other liquid, and 9.0 - 9.9 ounces of lye). If I want to make a smaller batch, I'll have to find something else to use as a mold. Generally, I'll use a shoe box lid or something lined with plastic and that works out pretty well for a fairly small batch.

3. List the oils you want to use and their weights (in ounces or grams) on paper and run them through the lye calculator at Cranberry Lane or use another lye calculator if you have a preference. Majestic Mountain Sage has a popular online lye calculator (http://www.thesage.com/).

4. Once you've entered your selection of oils, the weight(s) of the lye and water (liquid) you need will automatically be calculated for you. 5. Print or copy your recipe and start making soap. If you need further instructions, click here . You will want to add notes for future reference. If you are going to include an additive, such as an EO, herb or colorant, make note of this on your recipe page. For cold process soapmaking instructions (including milk based soaps), visit our soapmaking instructions page.

Note: Coconut, Palm, Soy (Shortening or Vegetable Oil) and Olive oils are some of the most commonly used oils in soapmaking. The majority of our soaps include Coconut Oil for hardness and lather, Palm Oil for hardness and smooth, creamy bubbles, and Olive for its obvious benefits to skin and for a lasting, mild, non-drying, bar of soap.

Remember, soapmaking is a personal thing. You have complete control over what goes into your products and it includes molding preferences, desired additives, the oils you select, your method of packaging and more. I guess this is where it becomes an art because everyone has an opportunity to craft a bar that perhaps no one else has ever produced to be exactly the same.

High Grade Fragrance oils for soaps, candles, toiletries from Glenbrook Farms

Source: http://www.mortarandpestle.net/recipes_about.html

Monday, September 8, 2008

Tested Bitter Creek Fragrances

If you wondering if a certain scent from Bitter Creek would work in your cold process soap recipe, here is a link that contains the notes of fragrances used:


Has anyone ever used fragrances from this company? Would you care to share your experiences with us? I am always interested in learning about other company's products. Because I may want to purchase from them in the future.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Blending Colors for Melt & Pour

If you were wondering how to create other colors for your melt and pour soaps beyond the primary red, yellow and blue, here is a list that will help you to create new colors for your palette:

Aqua - add blue to green

Gray - add small amount of black

Coral - add yellow to pink

Pink - add small amount of red

Purple - add blue to red

Light Tan - add black to orange

Teal Green - add black to green

Dusty Rose - add small amount of black to red

Magenta - add red to wine

Orange - add yellow to red

Wine - add red to purple

Brown - add blue to orange

Lime - add green to yellow

Moss Green - add red to green

Turquoise - add green to blue

Adding small amounts at a time helps you determine the color you're actually getting. Remember you can always add MORE color, but you can't take the color out once you add it!

Source: http://www.halderman.net/soap/tips.htm#cp

Saturday, September 6, 2008


(Submitted to Soap Wizards http://www.soapwizards.com/ by Ela Heyn)

Here are my instructions for using a 3-D soap mold effectively. Of course, this is contingent upon the two halves of the soap mold fitting together correctly in the first place. So the first step would actually be to acquire a soap mold designed to be 3-D, or examine your soap mold to make sure that the two halves do, in fact, fit together to form a 3-D image.

Assuming that you've done this:

1. Prepare sufficient soap base for BOTH halves of the soap mold at once - adding both scent and color to it. This can be either clear soap base or opaque soap base, in either crafting soap base or molding soap base.

2. Fill ONE half of the soap mold with soap base; let it "set up". The rest of the soap base can be allowed to cool down in the meanwhile.

3. When that half is "set up", unmold it. Now, reheat the rest of the soap base, and fill the OTHER half of the soap mold with soap base.

4. Very quickly, before the soap base has a chance to cool, take the finished half, and SMOOSH the unfinished side down into the molten soap base in the other half of the soap mold. Make sure as much of the surface of the hardened soap touches the molten soap base as possible, to get the greatest adhesion possible. You might need to pour a little extra soap base around the edges, to fill in any gaps between the two halves.

5. Let set up, and then unmold. Very carefully, with a wet finger or the edge of a butter knife, rub the seam to smooth it out as much as possible. A perfect 3-D soap object! Note: It's important when making 3-D soap objects to prepare ALL of your soap base at once to ensure that the two halves of your finished soap match each other in texture, color, scent, etc!

Source: http://www.soapwizards.com/tek9.asp?pg=recipes#HOW%20TO%20USE%20A%203-D%20MOLD

Friday, September 5, 2008

Swirling Technique for Hot Process Soap Making

While searching the internet for hot process (crock pot) soap making recipes, I found these instructions on how to swirl and layer different colors in the hot process method. The author of both recipes does it in the oven rather in a crock pot. And recently I learn how to make soap in the crockpot. So I was wondering if anyone has tried this technique in a crock pot? If you did, how did it turn out? I would like to hear about your experience. On the other hand if you did it in the oven like the instructions call for, I would still like to hear from you.


Combo (Swirling/Layering):

Thursday, September 4, 2008

What is Jojoba Oil?

From Mountain Rose Herbs (http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/):

Method of extraction: Cold Pressed/Unrefined

Jojoba oil comes from the beans of the shrub like plant, simmondsia chinensis. This is the highest grade certified organic, cold pressed oil (actually a liquid plant wax). It is bright and golden in color and is regarded as the most favored in the carrier oil family because of its advanced molecular stability. Also makes a great scalp cleanser for the hair, and is equally wonderful for the skin because it has absorption properties that are similar to our skins own sebum.

If you are interested in learning more about Jojoba Oil, then check these links:





Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Soap and Candle Makers Group

I was recently invited to join a newly (yet small) soap makers group. I would like to invite the students who have taken a class (or anyone else for that matter) who would like to join this northern california group:


What are Emollients?

Are you just getting into making your own bath and body products and you are confused on all of the vocabulary out there?  Emollients can be one of those words that may need some clarification. So according to wisegeeks.com,

"Emollients, also commonly referred to as moisturizers, are products that help to soften skin or to treat skin that has become dry. They work by increasing the ability of the skin to hold water, providing the skin with a layer of oil to prevent water loss, and lubricating the skin.

Many natural ingredients are typically added to emollient products in order to give them their properties. The juice from the aloe vera plant is commonly added to emollients. This plant has long been used to preserve the moisture of the skin and to soothe dryness and other skin problems. The Mayas and the Incas used aloe vera to provide relief from sunburn. Today, it is used in special emollients to help burn victims heal quickly and with as little scarring as possible.Another ingredient commonly found in emollients is jojoba oil. Like aloe vera, jojoba oil helps to keep the skin moist. Jojoba oil is similar to sebum, an oil that is naturally found in the skin. For this reason, jojoba oil helps keep dry skin moist and suppresses the production of oil in skin that is oily.

Vitamin A is also used in many emollients, because it has been shown to be effective in keeping the skin healthy by increasing the amount of collagen in the skin, which helps keep the skin moist and elastic. Forms of vitamin A commonly used in emollients include retinyl, retinoic acid, palmitate, retinal, tretinoin, and isotretinoin. Vitamin E is another ingredient commonly used in emollients, as are soybean oil and avocado oil. All three of these ingredients provide protection for the skin and help it retain its moisture. Avocado also contains large amounts of vitamin A and potassium.

Vitamin C is also found in many emollients. This vitamin has been proven to help create smoother, firmer skin when applied on a regular basis. In addition, it helps preserve moisture in the skin and prevents the skin from drying out."

Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-emollients.htm

Tuesday, September 2, 2008


1/4 c. baking soda
2 tlbs. citric acid or absorbic acid (powdered vit. C)
1 tlbs. Borax powder (for softening)
2 tlbs. powdered sugar (for binding)
2 tlbs. sweet almond oil
1 tsp. Vitamin E oil
1/4 tsp. fragrance or essential oil

Combine dry ingredients in a bowl and stir until well blended. Drizzle in almond oil and stir until mixture is moistened. Add Vit. E oil and fragrance and stir until well mixed. Take teaspoon size globs of mixture and form into ball shapes with fingers. (mixture will be VERY crumbly and fragile , so do the best you can. Add a little bit more of the vit. E. oil I find that helps.) Place the balls on a sheet of wax paper and leave alone for 2-3 hours. After 2-3 hrs, reshape balls. Let the balls air-dry and harden for 10 days. Store balls in a closed container to protect from moisture. To use, plop a ball into your bathtub in warm water!

Source: http://possumsal.homestead.com/Bath/FIZZING.html

Monday, September 1, 2008

Beautiful Belly Balm or Silky Skin Balm

This balm is great to make for a pregnant woman or use for yourself. Helps to reduce stretch marks, nourish the skin making it extra silky and soft.


2 oz jojoba oil
2 oz coconut oil
3 tablespoons olive oil( I infuse calendula in the oil)
2 oz cocoa butter (may use only cocoa butter-use 4 oz)
2 oz shea butter (may use only shea butter-use 4 oz)
1 oz beeswax (about 1 1/4 cups grated)

scent with a few drops of vanilla essential oil (not fragrance oil, http://www.simplers.com/ has an excellent CO2 vanilla essential oil) and lavender essential oil or just use lavender.


In a double broiler melt all the ingredients, stir, remove from heat and slightly cool, add essential oils, pour into containers. You may also add the essential oils directly to the balm right after pouring it into the containers.

Source: Joan Morais's Blog: http://www.naturalskinandbodycare.typepad.com/. Joan's website: http://www.joanmorais.com/.