These romantic soap blends are great in a variety of products. What separates these kinds of blends from others is their tenacity and sensual aromas. I typically do not like to use expensive essential oils in cold process soap making because only the most tenacious essential oils survive saponification. It is important when formulating soaps with essential oils to make a test batch of say 1/2 - 1 pound of soap first to see how the essential oils fare.
In giving the cons of using essential oils in soaps, let me say that the benefits far outweigh the detractions. Firstly, and especially when making soap using melt and pour bases, that the therapeutic effects of the essential oil is preserved. Plus, though some essential oils dissappear in cold process soapmaking, yet for essential oils that stay, the scent tends to last longer than fragrance oils. Some examples of essential oils with killer dry downs that may survive months and even years in storage are: patchouli, vetiver, clove, clary sage, ylang-ylang and nutmeg.
These essential oil blends are all sensuous blends with tenacious dry downs. Ideally, these would be perfect added to melt and pour soaps and other body care products. Very pricey essential oils may be substituted with fragrance oils. One alternative in using these essential oils is to use the pure essential oil blends for skin care products and perfume sprays and use the fragrance oil/essential oil blends for cold process soapmaking.
Cupid’s Bower
1 tsp sandalwood essential oil
1 tsp. patchouli essential oil
1 tsp vetiver essential oil
1 tsp musk fragrance oil (see links at bottom of page for shopping source)
¼ tsp rose, neroli, or geranium rose essential oil
Siam
1 tsp sandalwood essential oil
1 tsp ylang ylang essential oil
½ tsp ambergris or musk EO (substitute ambergris or musk EO with musk fragrance oil)
Dragon’s Blood
2 tsp sandalwood essential oil
1 tsp patchouli essential oil
1 tsp frankincense essential oil
1 tsp myrrh essential oil
¼ tsp rose geranium essential oil
Vintage Rose
2 tsp rose essential oil or rose fragrance oil
1 tsp patchouli essential oil
1/8 tsp nutmeg and clove essential oil
1 tsp lavender essential oil
Mediterranean Geranium
1 tsp rose geranium essential oil
1 tsp patchouli essential oil
1 tsp bergamot
Flower of Jove (carnation)
1 tsp ylang-ylang essential oil
1 tsp clove essential oil
1/16 tsp black pepper essential oil (add more if the carnation is not spicy enough)
Resources
Essential Oils and fragrance oil
Royal Aromatics -- Outstanding company. Will send samples. Located in Neptune, New Jersey. They do business with those who need one pound to several hundred pounds of essential oil and fragrance oils. Also, they handle orders for custom formulations and duplicates.
Sweetcakes -- Sweetcakes is a hidden gem. One of the best kept secrets of the trade for those who formulate and sell exquisite perfumes. Their Egyptian musk is the best. Also, they have an outstanding sandalwood that would give the real sandalwood essential oil a run for its money.
Romantic Molds
Bramble Berry - One of my favorite suppliers. Outstanding customer service. See them for romantic molds and a wonderful valentines day soap kit.
Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.Bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Aromatherapy- Know the Power of Fragrances
Aromatherapy is an ancient art that has been used for thousands of years as an aid to physical and emotional well being. Aromatherapy and its use can be traced back as far as the ancient Egyptians, who took advantage of essential oils therapeutic powers. Aromatherapy has also been used for a very long time in the Far East and China.
Effects of Aromatherapy
Aromatherapy is a branch of herbology and the study of "aromatherapy" may best be considered in these four areas of application:
Aesthetic - the effects essential oils have on the beauty of skin and hair.
Psycho - the effects aromas have on our moods and feeling; known as aromachology.
Holistic - the integration of the divine into the body, mind, and spirit.
Medical - the effects essential oils have in enhancing and maintaining a state of homeostasis.
Method of application
An essential oil is a liquid distilled from the leaves, stems, roots, flowers, or bark of a plant. Essential oils, which are used in Aromatherapy, are very concentrated, and therefore, they are usually diluted with carrier oil, such as almond oil. Essential oils, in their purest form, tend to be very expensive, because the amount of oil present in plants is extremely small. For example, 440 pounds of fresh lavender flowers yield only 2.5 pounds of essential oil of lavender. Aromatherapy and essential oils can be used for many purposes, such as to calm or rejuvenate the body and mind.
The use of aromatherapy can be seen as part of a lifestyle choice -- a lifestyle that allows for pleasure because a moment of pleasure is healing. Pleasure is described as a source of enjoyment. Why deny yourself the pleasure and the benefits of a feminine fragrance such as Rose from Morocco or Bulgaria?
By understanding how to apply aromatherapy in daily use, you can enjoy the scents and help to maintain a system of preventative care for you and your family's long-term well-being.
About the Author
For more information, visit these sites: http://www.blogger.com/' target='_blank' class='navigation'>http://www.aromatherapyinfocenter.com/ http://www.blogger.com/' target='_blank' class='navigation'>http://www.perfumeinfocenter.com/
Source:http://articletrader.com/
Effects of Aromatherapy
Aromatherapy is a branch of herbology and the study of "aromatherapy" may best be considered in these four areas of application:
Aesthetic - the effects essential oils have on the beauty of skin and hair.
Psycho - the effects aromas have on our moods and feeling; known as aromachology.
Holistic - the integration of the divine into the body, mind, and spirit.
Medical - the effects essential oils have in enhancing and maintaining a state of homeostasis.
Method of application
An essential oil is a liquid distilled from the leaves, stems, roots, flowers, or bark of a plant. Essential oils, which are used in Aromatherapy, are very concentrated, and therefore, they are usually diluted with carrier oil, such as almond oil. Essential oils, in their purest form, tend to be very expensive, because the amount of oil present in plants is extremely small. For example, 440 pounds of fresh lavender flowers yield only 2.5 pounds of essential oil of lavender. Aromatherapy and essential oils can be used for many purposes, such as to calm or rejuvenate the body and mind.
The use of aromatherapy can be seen as part of a lifestyle choice -- a lifestyle that allows for pleasure because a moment of pleasure is healing. Pleasure is described as a source of enjoyment. Why deny yourself the pleasure and the benefits of a feminine fragrance such as Rose from Morocco or Bulgaria?
By understanding how to apply aromatherapy in daily use, you can enjoy the scents and help to maintain a system of preventative care for you and your family's long-term well-being.
About the Author
For more information, visit these sites: http://www.blogger.com/' target='_blank' class='navigation'>http://www.aromatherapyinfocenter.com/ http://www.blogger.com/' target='_blank' class='navigation'>http://www.perfumeinfocenter.com/
Source:http://articletrader.com/
Monday, December 29, 2008
Shower Sugar Cubes Recipe
Here is an interesting recipe from Wholesale Supplies Plus's blog on how to make sugar scrubs for the shower. The ingredients in this recipe can be purchase from Wholesale Supplies Plus. If they do not sell raw brown sugar, you can probably get that at your local health food store or may be your local chain grocery store.
The recipe is very simple with only a few ingredients. Since it so easy that you could whip up a batch in no time and give them as favors at your next special occasion like a bridal shower.
Ingredients:
16 oz Crafter’s Choice Foaming Bath Whip
16 oz Crafter’s Choice Ultra White MP Soap
32 oz Raw Brown Sugar
2 oz Crafter’s Choice Sexy Vanilla Bean FO
Silicone Square Tray Mold
Directions:
This recipe requires that you weigh your ingredients with a scale. After weighing, place the foaming bath whip and white soap in a glass bowl. (Do not use a hand mixer to whip the foaming bath whip) Heat the contents of the bowl in the microwave until fully melted. Do not boil. Remove from microwave and add fragrance. Weigh the brown sugar and add to the glass bowl. Mix well. Pour into silicone mold. Allow to completely harden. Remove from mold and slice with a straight or wavy soap cutter.Package cubes in 16 oz Clear Basic Jar or 12 oz Clear Bail Jar. Label as directed. To harden cubes, allow to sit open to the air for 24-48 hours.
Notes: When making this recipe it is impossible to remove the sugar cubes from a plastic mold. A silicone mold is best. When pouring this recipe it is very, very thick. Due to this consistency an alternative household mold would be a jelly roll pan, glass baking dish or plastic food storage container lined with wax paper. If you do this, you should not use these containers for foods at a later date.
Variations:
After removing the liquefied bases from the microwave, add a small amount of Crafter’s Choice Strawberry Red Liquid Color and 2 oz of Crafter’s Choice Cotton Candy Twist Fragrance Oil.
Instead of raw brown sugar, use coarse white sugar (big crystals). These will look like pink sugar cubes.
Additional variations include lemon (yellow), orange vanilla (orange), pomegranate (purple), margarita lime (green).
Working Hard for Your Success!
Debbie May
http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/
1-800-359-0944
Source: http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.blogspot.com/
The recipe is very simple with only a few ingredients. Since it so easy that you could whip up a batch in no time and give them as favors at your next special occasion like a bridal shower.
Ingredients:
16 oz Crafter’s Choice Foaming Bath Whip
16 oz Crafter’s Choice Ultra White MP Soap
32 oz Raw Brown Sugar
2 oz Crafter’s Choice Sexy Vanilla Bean FO
Silicone Square Tray Mold
Directions:
This recipe requires that you weigh your ingredients with a scale. After weighing, place the foaming bath whip and white soap in a glass bowl. (Do not use a hand mixer to whip the foaming bath whip) Heat the contents of the bowl in the microwave until fully melted. Do not boil. Remove from microwave and add fragrance. Weigh the brown sugar and add to the glass bowl. Mix well. Pour into silicone mold. Allow to completely harden. Remove from mold and slice with a straight or wavy soap cutter.Package cubes in 16 oz Clear Basic Jar or 12 oz Clear Bail Jar. Label as directed. To harden cubes, allow to sit open to the air for 24-48 hours.
Notes: When making this recipe it is impossible to remove the sugar cubes from a plastic mold. A silicone mold is best. When pouring this recipe it is very, very thick. Due to this consistency an alternative household mold would be a jelly roll pan, glass baking dish or plastic food storage container lined with wax paper. If you do this, you should not use these containers for foods at a later date.
Variations:
After removing the liquefied bases from the microwave, add a small amount of Crafter’s Choice Strawberry Red Liquid Color and 2 oz of Crafter’s Choice Cotton Candy Twist Fragrance Oil.
Instead of raw brown sugar, use coarse white sugar (big crystals). These will look like pink sugar cubes.
Additional variations include lemon (yellow), orange vanilla (orange), pomegranate (purple), margarita lime (green).
Working Hard for Your Success!
Debbie May
http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/
1-800-359-0944
Source: http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.blogspot.com/
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Whipped Soap Recipes
I recently heard about whipped soap, but I was intriqued. So I went to the internet to see what it was all about. And I found these recipes:
http://nizzymoulds.com/Whipped/index.htm
http://www.soap-making-essentials.com/how-to-make-soap-whipped-cream.html
If you are one of those cold process soap makers who makes whipped soap and would like to share your recipes, please let me know what it is and I will post it here. And tells us why you like it so much!
http://nizzymoulds.com/Whipped/index.htm
http://www.soap-making-essentials.com/how-to-make-soap-whipped-cream.html
If you are one of those cold process soap makers who makes whipped soap and would like to share your recipes, please let me know what it is and I will post it here. And tells us why you like it so much!
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Popping Bath Salts
I found this recipe and I thought it was quite intresting because of the addition of Pop Rocks to make the salts pop. It is the CO2 that is in Pop Rocks that makes them fizzle. I thought this might be a fun recipe to make and put it in a bottle shaped like a champagne bottle. Then you can open it and use it for New Years!
Ingredients:
1 cup rock salt
1 cup Epson salt
1 cup Pop Rocks!
Fragrance or essential oil
Optional: water soluble colorant
Directions:
Blend your three ingredients together well.Wearing gloves, drizzle the fragrance or essential oil into the bowl and mix well. If you choose to use a colorant, use a water soluble colorant like an FD&C or mica. Pigments tend to clump and not work as well as water soluble colorants.Package the product up in an airtight container and enjoy the popping and cracking of the Pop Rocks! when you take a bath!
Source: http://crafterscommunity.com/forum/bath-body/14662-popping-bath-salts.html
Ingredients:
1 cup rock salt
1 cup Epson salt
1 cup Pop Rocks!
Fragrance or essential oil
Optional: water soluble colorant
Directions:
Blend your three ingredients together well.Wearing gloves, drizzle the fragrance or essential oil into the bowl and mix well. If you choose to use a colorant, use a water soluble colorant like an FD&C or mica. Pigments tend to clump and not work as well as water soluble colorants.Package the product up in an airtight container and enjoy the popping and cracking of the Pop Rocks! when you take a bath!
Source: http://crafterscommunity.com/forum/bath-body/14662-popping-bath-salts.html
Friday, December 26, 2008
Jojoba Hand Lotion
Ingredients:
1/3 cup beeswax
4 tablespoons walnut oil
2 tablespoons jojoba oil
¼ cup coconut oil
½ cup water
½ cup rose water
Instructions:
Combine the wax and oils in the top of a double boiler. Heat the mixture until the wax melts. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir together the water and rose water and gradually add to the hot wax, one drop at a time, stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens. Makes about 1 ½ cups.
Source: http://www.soapmakersupplies.com/soapmaking/SoapRecipes_Home.html#Lori
1/3 cup beeswax
4 tablespoons walnut oil
2 tablespoons jojoba oil
¼ cup coconut oil
½ cup water
½ cup rose water
Instructions:
Combine the wax and oils in the top of a double boiler. Heat the mixture until the wax melts. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir together the water and rose water and gradually add to the hot wax, one drop at a time, stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens. Makes about 1 ½ cups.
Source: http://www.soapmakersupplies.com/soapmaking/SoapRecipes_Home.html#Lori
Thursday, December 25, 2008
"Sweet Dreams" Linen Spray From Cranberry Lane
Yields: Makes 100ml/3.5fl.oz.
Ingredients:
60ml Floral water (Orange Blossom, or Rose)
40ml *Ethanol or Vodka15-20 drops of Essential oils
Suggested Essential oils: Choose non-staining essential oils for white linens, try any of the following: Lavender, Lavandin, Juniper, Eucalyptus, Rosewood, Rosemary, Pine, Peppermint, Petitgrain
Mix all ingredients together. Shake well before using. Store in a cool dark place. Product is best kept in a dark glass bottle.
*Ethanol is often sold as "Rubbing Alcohol." Do not use Isopropyl as it is derived from petroleum.
Source: http://www.cranberrylane.com/recipes-house.htm
Ingredients:
60ml Floral water (Orange Blossom, or Rose)
40ml *Ethanol or Vodka15-20 drops of Essential oils
Suggested Essential oils: Choose non-staining essential oils for white linens, try any of the following: Lavender, Lavandin, Juniper, Eucalyptus, Rosewood, Rosemary, Pine, Peppermint, Petitgrain
Mix all ingredients together. Shake well before using. Store in a cool dark place. Product is best kept in a dark glass bottle.
*Ethanol is often sold as "Rubbing Alcohol." Do not use Isopropyl as it is derived from petroleum.
Source: http://www.cranberrylane.com/recipes-house.htm
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Jewel Soap
What you will need:
*4 ounces of Soap Crafters Clear Melt & Pour Soap
* Shavings from previously made Rainbow soap, shave so it curls
*1/4 teaspoon of your favorite Soap Crafters Fragrance Oil
*A microwave & microwave safe bowl
*A chopstick or spoon to stir
*Celtic Oval Mold (from the SoapCrafter's Mold Line or other mold)
Directions:
With a sharp knife, cut shavings from previously made and multicolored soaps. For this soap, I used rainbow soap. Spray the shavings with Witch Hazel and then loosely pack them into the soap mold. (Spritzing the shaving in the mold will cause the soap to go cloudy.) Put 4 ounces of clear Melt & Pour soap in a bowl. Microwave it for 30 seconds. Stir with a chop stick. Keep putting it back into the microwave until melted for about 5 seconds, being careful not to let it boil or overheat. Don't stir too vigorously because you will create foam. When melted, let sit until a thin skin forms on top. You might have to jiggle it a bit to see it. Add the fragrance. Stir. Pour over the shaved soap in the soap mold. Remove any foam or bubbles which have formed. Put mold into freezer for about 1 hour. It will pop right out.
Note: You can create these same soaps with other molds and fragrances from another company. It is just another way of create it.
Source: http://www.meltandpour.com/jewelsoap.htm
*4 ounces of Soap Crafters Clear Melt & Pour Soap
* Shavings from previously made Rainbow soap, shave so it curls
*1/4 teaspoon of your favorite Soap Crafters Fragrance Oil
*A microwave & microwave safe bowl
*A chopstick or spoon to stir
*Celtic Oval Mold (from the SoapCrafter's Mold Line or other mold)
Directions:
With a sharp knife, cut shavings from previously made and multicolored soaps. For this soap, I used rainbow soap. Spray the shavings with Witch Hazel and then loosely pack them into the soap mold. (Spritzing the shaving in the mold will cause the soap to go cloudy.) Put 4 ounces of clear Melt & Pour soap in a bowl. Microwave it for 30 seconds. Stir with a chop stick. Keep putting it back into the microwave until melted for about 5 seconds, being careful not to let it boil or overheat. Don't stir too vigorously because you will create foam. When melted, let sit until a thin skin forms on top. You might have to jiggle it a bit to see it. Add the fragrance. Stir. Pour over the shaved soap in the soap mold. Remove any foam or bubbles which have formed. Put mold into freezer for about 1 hour. It will pop right out.
Note: You can create these same soaps with other molds and fragrances from another company. It is just another way of create it.
Source: http://www.meltandpour.com/jewelsoap.htm
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Citrus Zest Salt Scrub
Ingredients:
23 oz wt fine sea salts
2 oz wt hemp seed oil
2 oz wt apricot kernel oil
4 oz wt glycerin soap base
1 ml lemon essential oil
1 ml lime essential oil
Instructions:
Melt your glycerin soap base in a microwave safe container for 1 minute on a medium heat. When glycerin soap base has melted add your emollient oils , mix these up well and then add your salts. Last step add fragrance oils and mix until all ingredients are incorporated evenly (mixture will be thick). Put finished salt scrub in a tightly sealed glass container.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future. Or more great recipes check out: http://www.pinemeadows.net/.
Source: http://www.pinemeadows.net/recipes.php#r7
23 oz wt fine sea salts
2 oz wt hemp seed oil
2 oz wt apricot kernel oil
4 oz wt glycerin soap base
1 ml lemon essential oil
1 ml lime essential oil
Instructions:
Melt your glycerin soap base in a microwave safe container for 1 minute on a medium heat. When glycerin soap base has melted add your emollient oils , mix these up well and then add your salts. Last step add fragrance oils and mix until all ingredients are incorporated evenly (mixture will be thick). Put finished salt scrub in a tightly sealed glass container.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future. Or more great recipes check out: http://www.pinemeadows.net/.
Source: http://www.pinemeadows.net/recipes.php#r7
Monday, December 22, 2008
Last Minute Holiday Gifts
Here is an excerpt from Martha Stewart's show on making candle with Harry Slatkin. I reconize the soy wax - you can purchase it from Michael's or Joann's.
This Christmas season, it is really big to make your own crafts and give them as gifts. Just last week, one of the local news reporters was at Michaels in Emeryville. And the manager they interviewed said that this Christmas season they are beating last year.
This Christmas season, it is really big to make your own crafts and give them as gifts. Just last week, one of the local news reporters was at Michaels in Emeryville. And the manager they interviewed said that this Christmas season they are beating last year.
Good for all of you that make your gifts! I really think that the reciptent appreciates it more.
Bath Fizzies from the Martha Stewart Show
Here is a clip from the Martha Stewart Show demonstrating how to make Bath Fizzie Bombs:
http://www.marthastewart.com/article/bath-fizzies?autonomy_kw=labels%20for%20bath%20products&rsc=header_16
http://www.marthastewart.com/article/bath-fizzies?autonomy_kw=labels%20for%20bath%20products&rsc=header_16
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Packaging Ideas for Bath and Body Products
October 24th, 2008 Soapcrafters in
The Trials and Tribulations of Selling
Let’s start with shower gel, shampoo and lotion...
Labeling was one of my biggest challenges when I first started. I made these really cute labels that got trashed after one shower or a couple of times using the lotion. I found great label paper, but I couldn’t find any that was waterproof AND made for an inkjet printer. I checked into customized labels but I couldn’t afford to order 200 labels at a time for each of the products I make. I also wanted the flexibility to change labels as I improved a product or to be able to personalize labels for people who wanted them for gifts (i.e. Mandy’s Raspberries N’ Cream Shower Gel). I am about to share the results of a 6 month, frustrating search. ( Drum roll please :-0 ) Lamination sheets were the answer to my troubles. They sell it at office supply stores and Wal-Mart. Personally I prefer the stuff at Wal-Mart. They are 81/2 by 11 sheets and come 10 to a package. It’s thicker and much less expensive. I just print off my labels, cut them out put a lamination sheet over them, and cut them out leaving about an 1/8th of an inch over hang to protect the label really well.For my little business it has been a great solution.
Carrie, who is a customer in Louisiana, told me awhile ago about xyron machines. I am seriously thinking of getting one of those. She highly recommended it. She said it laminates on one side and uses adhesive lamination film. That means you can use plain paper and still get your label to stick well. She just raved about hers. I know you can get smaller versions of them at Wal-Mart, but she got hers off e-bay and it has the capacity to send through an 8 1/2 by 11 sheet, so you can send several labels at a time instead of just one at a time with the smaller ones.
It might not be very practical to label that way for a bigger business, so if you have had the success to be at that stage, or are planning to be, you might want to check into having your labels made.Trish in Florida sent me an e-mail last week with what sounds like a really good deal. Here’s what she had to say: there are great labels you can make yourself on computer from Vista Print. I make the address labels with the name of the scent(under name) and a corresponding label. With the Ocean Lotion and Soap I chose a small water scene and Put Ocean Soap as the name on the label, under addresses I put the description of the scent. The labels look professional, are waterproof and work really well with water and oils (no smudge) They have over 200 labels you can choose from, for ingredients I found a really nice gold colored label and customized it in burgundy to match my color scheme. This is a great way to make professional, personalized to my company labels without having to put out tons of money on plate fees, designer fees and the cost of hot stamped labels( I do use hotstamping for my MDCrafter labels though). You can order 140 for 7.99 and they turned out great. The design process is so easy as you can do it yourself and see what the label will look like before you submit it. I am sure there are other label companies out there besides Vista Print, but I have been really happy with the professional look in the end. Another thing, you can upload your logos and create your own labels for an extra 99 cents per 144.Might be worth checking out!
As far as packaging goes…. There are lots of really beautiful glass bottles out there but I stay away from them with shower gel, shampoo and lotion. Glass in the shower and a glass lotion bottle slipping out of someone’s hand is just not a risk I want to take.I love the white lotion bottles we have. They are easier to squeeze than clear bottles and work well no matter what label I use. Also, my shower gel and shampoo have great oils in them but they make a white layer in the product. But when I put it in the white bottles, you can’t tell.For lotion, I use white lotion bottles and a lotion pump. For samples, I fill a 1/2 oz jar. It’s a great size! Perfect for the purse and just enough to give people a good idea of how good the lotion really is.For regular massage oil I really like using 8oz clear bottles with a pumpThe oil looks pretty in the bottles and the color doesn’t conflict with any labels I have. (I label this the same way I label the other bottles.) I always put a pump on the bottles because a slippery hand trying to squeeze a slippery bottle isn’t fun. For that same reason, I stay away from glass bottles with massage oil. For Edible Warming Gel our 2oz clear bottles are the best!It’s not something people use a lot of so a larger bottle would be too much for this. They also are the perfect size for anniversary or honey moon baskets and grab bags for wedding showers.
Now on to bubble bath and bath salts
For bubble bath, I’m not as nervous using a pretty glass bottle. Most people don’t keep it in the shower and don’t pour it into the tub when their hands are wet. You can find great glass bottles inexpensively, at yard sales, dollar stores and thrift stores. Use your imagination! Old wine bottles and pop bottles can make your bubble bath really unique. Most craft stores sell the corks to go in them too. Those bottles that they use in bars that have the pour spout thingie (don’t ya just love my technical terms) on them are great too.As far as plastic bottles go, I have seen baby bottles used for kid’s bubble bath or at baby showers for a door prize.Clear bottles with a cute label can really showcase your bubble bath as well.
There are many possibilities with bath salts as well.The old tins that people used to put on their kitchen counter that say “salt, sugar, flour” are really cute. I see those all the time at yard sales. You can get them cheap, and use the one that says salt for you’re your bath salts, and find a use for the others in the set. Dollar stores and thrift stores have wonderful tins, bail jars, and other unique bottles and jars that work well for bath salts. You can tie a label and a scoop on to the jar with raffia, ribbon, or twine and have a great look.Fabric bags are a great way to package salts for one time use. Put scented salts with flowers like lavender, rose petals and calendula in an organza or tulle (pronounced tool) bag for a gorgeous look that is amazingly easy.Muslin bags are way to package them that give you a more rustic, country or earthy look. They look great in a soap crate.
Finally, here are some ideas for bath teas and facial steams
Old tins are wonderful for an old fashioned look, while glass jars show off the beauty of the herbs.If I use a glass jar, I tie muslin bags on the outside with a label and directions for use.You can also fill those heat sealed tea bags with your mixture and then package several of them in a crate or a basket.
For facial steams you can package them in a nice glass jar or tin as well.Another fun idea is to put the herb mixture in a plastic bag and then put it inside a teapot. That way they have something to heat the water in as part of the package.Complete the look by attaching a hand made label with directions for use. It looks really nice when made with handmade paper.
Source: http://www.soapcrafters.com/node/345
The Trials and Tribulations of Selling
Let’s start with shower gel, shampoo and lotion...
Labeling was one of my biggest challenges when I first started. I made these really cute labels that got trashed after one shower or a couple of times using the lotion. I found great label paper, but I couldn’t find any that was waterproof AND made for an inkjet printer. I checked into customized labels but I couldn’t afford to order 200 labels at a time for each of the products I make. I also wanted the flexibility to change labels as I improved a product or to be able to personalize labels for people who wanted them for gifts (i.e. Mandy’s Raspberries N’ Cream Shower Gel). I am about to share the results of a 6 month, frustrating search. ( Drum roll please :-0 ) Lamination sheets were the answer to my troubles. They sell it at office supply stores and Wal-Mart. Personally I prefer the stuff at Wal-Mart. They are 81/2 by 11 sheets and come 10 to a package. It’s thicker and much less expensive. I just print off my labels, cut them out put a lamination sheet over them, and cut them out leaving about an 1/8th of an inch over hang to protect the label really well.For my little business it has been a great solution.
Carrie, who is a customer in Louisiana, told me awhile ago about xyron machines. I am seriously thinking of getting one of those. She highly recommended it. She said it laminates on one side and uses adhesive lamination film. That means you can use plain paper and still get your label to stick well. She just raved about hers. I know you can get smaller versions of them at Wal-Mart, but she got hers off e-bay and it has the capacity to send through an 8 1/2 by 11 sheet, so you can send several labels at a time instead of just one at a time with the smaller ones.
It might not be very practical to label that way for a bigger business, so if you have had the success to be at that stage, or are planning to be, you might want to check into having your labels made.Trish in Florida sent me an e-mail last week with what sounds like a really good deal. Here’s what she had to say: there are great labels you can make yourself on computer from Vista Print. I make the address labels with the name of the scent(under name) and a corresponding label. With the Ocean Lotion and Soap I chose a small water scene and Put Ocean Soap as the name on the label, under addresses I put the description of the scent. The labels look professional, are waterproof and work really well with water and oils (no smudge) They have over 200 labels you can choose from, for ingredients I found a really nice gold colored label and customized it in burgundy to match my color scheme. This is a great way to make professional, personalized to my company labels without having to put out tons of money on plate fees, designer fees and the cost of hot stamped labels( I do use hotstamping for my MDCrafter labels though). You can order 140 for 7.99 and they turned out great. The design process is so easy as you can do it yourself and see what the label will look like before you submit it. I am sure there are other label companies out there besides Vista Print, but I have been really happy with the professional look in the end. Another thing, you can upload your logos and create your own labels for an extra 99 cents per 144.Might be worth checking out!
As far as packaging goes…. There are lots of really beautiful glass bottles out there but I stay away from them with shower gel, shampoo and lotion. Glass in the shower and a glass lotion bottle slipping out of someone’s hand is just not a risk I want to take.I love the white lotion bottles we have. They are easier to squeeze than clear bottles and work well no matter what label I use. Also, my shower gel and shampoo have great oils in them but they make a white layer in the product. But when I put it in the white bottles, you can’t tell.For lotion, I use white lotion bottles and a lotion pump. For samples, I fill a 1/2 oz jar. It’s a great size! Perfect for the purse and just enough to give people a good idea of how good the lotion really is.For regular massage oil I really like using 8oz clear bottles with a pumpThe oil looks pretty in the bottles and the color doesn’t conflict with any labels I have. (I label this the same way I label the other bottles.) I always put a pump on the bottles because a slippery hand trying to squeeze a slippery bottle isn’t fun. For that same reason, I stay away from glass bottles with massage oil. For Edible Warming Gel our 2oz clear bottles are the best!It’s not something people use a lot of so a larger bottle would be too much for this. They also are the perfect size for anniversary or honey moon baskets and grab bags for wedding showers.
Now on to bubble bath and bath salts
For bubble bath, I’m not as nervous using a pretty glass bottle. Most people don’t keep it in the shower and don’t pour it into the tub when their hands are wet. You can find great glass bottles inexpensively, at yard sales, dollar stores and thrift stores. Use your imagination! Old wine bottles and pop bottles can make your bubble bath really unique. Most craft stores sell the corks to go in them too. Those bottles that they use in bars that have the pour spout thingie (don’t ya just love my technical terms) on them are great too.As far as plastic bottles go, I have seen baby bottles used for kid’s bubble bath or at baby showers for a door prize.Clear bottles with a cute label can really showcase your bubble bath as well.
There are many possibilities with bath salts as well.The old tins that people used to put on their kitchen counter that say “salt, sugar, flour” are really cute. I see those all the time at yard sales. You can get them cheap, and use the one that says salt for you’re your bath salts, and find a use for the others in the set. Dollar stores and thrift stores have wonderful tins, bail jars, and other unique bottles and jars that work well for bath salts. You can tie a label and a scoop on to the jar with raffia, ribbon, or twine and have a great look.Fabric bags are a great way to package salts for one time use. Put scented salts with flowers like lavender, rose petals and calendula in an organza or tulle (pronounced tool) bag for a gorgeous look that is amazingly easy.Muslin bags are way to package them that give you a more rustic, country or earthy look. They look great in a soap crate.
Finally, here are some ideas for bath teas and facial steams
Old tins are wonderful for an old fashioned look, while glass jars show off the beauty of the herbs.If I use a glass jar, I tie muslin bags on the outside with a label and directions for use.You can also fill those heat sealed tea bags with your mixture and then package several of them in a crate or a basket.
For facial steams you can package them in a nice glass jar or tin as well.Another fun idea is to put the herb mixture in a plastic bag and then put it inside a teapot. That way they have something to heat the water in as part of the package.Complete the look by attaching a hand made label with directions for use. It looks really nice when made with handmade paper.
Source: http://www.soapcrafters.com/node/345
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Lip Balm Recipes from Martha Stewart
In the December 2008 issue of Martha Stewart Living there are some body product recipes that appear on pages 118 - 122. There are recipes for lip balms, body scrubs, bath fizzies, and holiday balls.
If you are interested in the Martha Stewart Lip balm Recipe, then check out the link. Martha's recipe is very simple and includes only a few tools and materials which include beeswax pellets, carrier oils, essentials and a few tools that you need. In her recipe she also includes lipstick shavings in case you would like to add a slight tint to your product.
She has has included packaging ideas which includes links to clip art labels for your products. Some of the one she lists are Small Retangular #1, Small Retangular #2 , Small Round #1 , Small Round #2 , Large Retangular #1 , Large Retangular #2 , Large Retangular Blank #1 , Large Retangular Blank #2 , Large Round #1 and Large Round #2. But I think my favorite is for the lip balm tubes.
If you are interested in the Martha Stewart Lip balm Recipe, then check out the link. Martha's recipe is very simple and includes only a few tools and materials which include beeswax pellets, carrier oils, essentials and a few tools that you need. In her recipe she also includes lipstick shavings in case you would like to add a slight tint to your product.
She has has included packaging ideas which includes links to clip art labels for your products. Some of the one she lists are Small Retangular #1, Small Retangular #2 , Small Round #1 , Small Round #2 , Large Retangular #1 , Large Retangular #2 , Large Retangular Blank #1 , Large Retangular Blank #2 , Large Round #1 and Large Round #2. But I think my favorite is for the lip balm tubes.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Salt and Sugar Scrub Recipes from Martha Stewart
In the December 2008, Martha Stewart Living there are some body product recipes that appear on pages 118 - 122. There are recipes for lip balms, body scrubs, bath fizzies, and holiday balls.
Here is the recipe for the Body Scrubs:
http://www.marthastewart.com/article/natural-beauties-body-scrub
Clip-Art Labels
If you need more information on printing these labels, you may want to look at the above link for more information.
On the website also includes labels which the above link has instruction in addition to the labels. But I decided to provide the labels for those who do not want the recipes:
Blank Body Scrub Labels 1:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_blank_labels_1.pdf
Blank Body Scrub Labels 2:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_blank_labels_2.pdf
Salt Scrub # 1 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_salt_labels_1a.pdf
Salt Scrub #2 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_salt_labels_1b.pdf
Sugar Scrub #1 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_sugar_labels_1a.pdf
Sugar Scrub #2 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_sugar_labels_1b.pdf
Here is the recipe for the Body Scrubs:
http://www.marthastewart.com/article/natural-beauties-body-scrub
Clip-Art Labels
If you need more information on printing these labels, you may want to look at the above link for more information.
On the website also includes labels which the above link has instruction in addition to the labels. But I decided to provide the labels for those who do not want the recipes:
Blank Body Scrub Labels 1:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_blank_labels_1.pdf
Blank Body Scrub Labels 2:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_blank_labels_2.pdf
Salt Scrub # 1 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_salt_labels_1a.pdf
Salt Scrub #2 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_salt_labels_1b.pdf
Sugar Scrub #1 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_sugar_labels_1a.pdf
Sugar Scrub #2 Labels:
http://images.marthastewart.com/images/content/web/pdfs/2008Q4/msl_1208_scrub_sugar_labels_1b.pdf
Labels:
Labels,
Recipe - Sugar Scrubs,
Recipes - Scrubs
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Bath Fizzies from Martha Stewart Living
Ice-cube trays serve as molds, giving the fizzies their shape. Using a flexible silicone model lets you slide the cubes out smoothly without breaking them.
Show off the colors of the bath fizzies in glass jars with screw tops, the kind used for storing sugar and flour. Pack each type of fizzy in a separate jar so the scents won't meld. Write the name of the scent on a vellum tag (choose a shade that matches the fizzies), and punch a hole in the top. Thread the tag with ribbon, and tie it around the jar.
Citric acid, a common food additive, is available at wine-making-supply stores, some spice shops, and online. When citric acid is combined with baking soda and placed in water, a chemical reaction creates bubbles.
Makes 1 dozen (use 2 per bath)
Tools and Materials
1/2 cup citric acid
1 cup baking soda
3/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup organic cane sugar
About 6 drops food coloring
10 to 15 drops essential oil(s)
Special equipment: 2-ounce travel-size spray bottle, plastic pipette, silicone ice-cube tray, storage jars
Directions
1. Stir together citric acid, baking soda, and cornstarch in a glass measuring cup.
2. Pass mixture through a fine sieve or a flour sifter into a mixing bowl. Stir in sugar.
3. Fill spray bottle with water, and add food coloring. Spritz mixture lightly (it should become damp but not fizzy) until you can pack mixture with your hands.
4. Using pipette, add oil, 1 drop at a time, until strength of scent is to your liking. Using a metal spoon or your hands, mix ingredients until color is even throughout (mixture will begin to dry out; when this happens, spritz until packable again).
5. Spoon into ice-cube tray, pressing firmly. Let dry at room temperature overnight. Pop out of tray gently. Transfer to jars.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/natural-beauties-bath-fizzies
Show off the colors of the bath fizzies in glass jars with screw tops, the kind used for storing sugar and flour. Pack each type of fizzy in a separate jar so the scents won't meld. Write the name of the scent on a vellum tag (choose a shade that matches the fizzies), and punch a hole in the top. Thread the tag with ribbon, and tie it around the jar.
Citric acid, a common food additive, is available at wine-making-supply stores, some spice shops, and online. When citric acid is combined with baking soda and placed in water, a chemical reaction creates bubbles.
Makes 1 dozen (use 2 per bath)
Tools and Materials
1/2 cup citric acid
1 cup baking soda
3/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup organic cane sugar
About 6 drops food coloring
10 to 15 drops essential oil(s)
Special equipment: 2-ounce travel-size spray bottle, plastic pipette, silicone ice-cube tray, storage jars
Directions
1. Stir together citric acid, baking soda, and cornstarch in a glass measuring cup.
2. Pass mixture through a fine sieve or a flour sifter into a mixing bowl. Stir in sugar.
3. Fill spray bottle with water, and add food coloring. Spritz mixture lightly (it should become damp but not fizzy) until you can pack mixture with your hands.
4. Using pipette, add oil, 1 drop at a time, until strength of scent is to your liking. Using a metal spoon or your hands, mix ingredients until color is even throughout (mixture will begin to dry out; when this happens, spritz until packable again).
5. Spoon into ice-cube tray, pressing firmly. Let dry at room temperature overnight. Pop out of tray gently. Transfer to jars.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/natural-beauties-bath-fizzies
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Another Lotions Recipe
Submitted by Willow to Wholesale Supplies Plus Forum (http://forums.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/)
Ingredients:
55% distilled water
29% oils
10% butters
5.3% e-wax
0.7% preservative
Here's the breakdown for a thousand gram batch - very easy to apply the % then. ;o)
550 g water
290 g oils
100 g butters
53 g e-wax
8 g preservative
Use heat proof containers. I use Pyrex batter bowls, as they are good and sturdy and can go in the microwave or the fridge. Measure your water into one container, oils and e-wax into another, butters into a third, and preservative in a fourth.
All heating times I've given are based on my microwave, which tends to run hotter than average. For instance, for a TV dinner that says "4 to 6 minutes", we usually go 3 min 45 sec. Keep this in mind when attempting at home. Heat your water in the microwave or over the stove. For 550 g, I heat it in the micro on high for 4.5 minutes in a glass measuring cup. This is shy of boiling, but still pretty hot - I'd say 170 degrees or so. Set the water aside.
Heat oils and e-wax until e-wax is melted and container is hot to the touch. For this batch it takes about 3 minutes in the micro on high(Zap in 1 min increments). Add the butters to this mixture and allow the retained heat to melt them. This helps avoid any graininess that can occur by melting the butters too quickly. If after a few minutes the butters haven't completely melted, zap in the micro in 10 sec increments. Allow ingredients to cool until the containers are warm to the touch. I'd guess this is about 110 to 120 degrees.
Slowly pour water into the oil mixture, and start stick blending. I blend for one minute on, five minutes off until it's started to cool. It really doesn't take long for them to emulsify.
Please Note: I use Phenonip, which can withstand very high temps. According to manufacturer's instructions, I add half of it to the water, and half to the oils. I have never had a lotion separate on me using this process. Of course you can tweek this anyway you want to - there are so many cool additives like liquid silk or the polysorbates or even starches... but this really does work and is a great confidence booster! lol
Source: http://forums.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/index.php?showtopic=206
Ingredients:
55% distilled water
29% oils
10% butters
5.3% e-wax
0.7% preservative
Here's the breakdown for a thousand gram batch - very easy to apply the % then. ;o)
550 g water
290 g oils
100 g butters
53 g e-wax
8 g preservative
Use heat proof containers. I use Pyrex batter bowls, as they are good and sturdy and can go in the microwave or the fridge. Measure your water into one container, oils and e-wax into another, butters into a third, and preservative in a fourth.
All heating times I've given are based on my microwave, which tends to run hotter than average. For instance, for a TV dinner that says "4 to 6 minutes", we usually go 3 min 45 sec. Keep this in mind when attempting at home. Heat your water in the microwave or over the stove. For 550 g, I heat it in the micro on high for 4.5 minutes in a glass measuring cup. This is shy of boiling, but still pretty hot - I'd say 170 degrees or so. Set the water aside.
Heat oils and e-wax until e-wax is melted and container is hot to the touch. For this batch it takes about 3 minutes in the micro on high(Zap in 1 min increments). Add the butters to this mixture and allow the retained heat to melt them. This helps avoid any graininess that can occur by melting the butters too quickly. If after a few minutes the butters haven't completely melted, zap in the micro in 10 sec increments. Allow ingredients to cool until the containers are warm to the touch. I'd guess this is about 110 to 120 degrees.
Slowly pour water into the oil mixture, and start stick blending. I blend for one minute on, five minutes off until it's started to cool. It really doesn't take long for them to emulsify.
Please Note: I use Phenonip, which can withstand very high temps. According to manufacturer's instructions, I add half of it to the water, and half to the oils. I have never had a lotion separate on me using this process. Of course you can tweek this anyway you want to - there are so many cool additives like liquid silk or the polysorbates or even starches... but this really does work and is a great confidence booster! lol
Source: http://forums.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/index.php?showtopic=206
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Solution to Grittiness in Lotion Recipe
For those students who took my lotions class and mentioned in my bath salts and body scrubs class that their lotions felt gritty. I think I know what may be causing that - the citric acid. Maybe too much was added or was not mixed in completely. But if you wanted to you can completely omitted from the recipe.
I was asked by a student (I am sorry I forgot your name) what were my favorite oils and why. The two I mentioned were Jojoba and Sweet Almond. I thought about it and I would like to add grapeseed to the list because it is a light oil that absorbs quickly without feeling greasy. And another oil I like is macadamia nut oil because it is close to our sebum and it easily absorbs to the skin. There is one other that I like and that is Camilla oil for the reason that I like the feel of it. I hope that helps.
I was asked by a student (I am sorry I forgot your name) what were my favorite oils and why. The two I mentioned were Jojoba and Sweet Almond. I thought about it and I would like to add grapeseed to the list because it is a light oil that absorbs quickly without feeling greasy. And another oil I like is macadamia nut oil because it is close to our sebum and it easily absorbs to the skin. There is one other that I like and that is Camilla oil for the reason that I like the feel of it. I hope that helps.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Holiday Balsam Soap (Cold Process)
Recipe from Snowdrift Farms (http://www.snowdriftfarms.com/).
Please visit our Safe Soapmaking page before making soap.
All measurements are metric by weight except for water, which is by volume.
Oils:
400 grams sweet almond oil
400 grams avocado oil
300 grams coconut oil
200 grams palm oil
300 grams sunflower seed oil
200 grams lye (NaOH/sodium hydroxide)
500 milliliters distilled water
2 teaspoons hydrated chromium green oxide
2 teaspoons titanium dioxide
Holiday Balsam fragrance oil
Utensils: wire whisk for swirling; second mixing bowl for coloring soap base.
When soap mix comes to light trace add the fragrance oil. Divide in half by pouring half into a separate mixing bowl. Into first half of mix, add the green oxide and into the second half, add the titanium dioxide. Mix each color thoroughly. Pour half of green soap on bottom of mold. Pour half of white soap mix on top. Repeat. Insert wire whisk into soap mix and pull through, creating designs as you go. Be sure to drag whisk along bottom of mold to create swirls throughout the soap.
Pour into 5 pound rectangular slab mold.
Click here for more holiday soap recipes.
Source: http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_cpsoap_15.html
Please visit our Safe Soapmaking page before making soap.
All measurements are metric by weight except for water, which is by volume.
Oils:
400 grams sweet almond oil
400 grams avocado oil
300 grams coconut oil
200 grams palm oil
300 grams sunflower seed oil
200 grams lye (NaOH/sodium hydroxide)
500 milliliters distilled water
2 teaspoons hydrated chromium green oxide
2 teaspoons titanium dioxide
Holiday Balsam fragrance oil
Utensils: wire whisk for swirling; second mixing bowl for coloring soap base.
When soap mix comes to light trace add the fragrance oil. Divide in half by pouring half into a separate mixing bowl. Into first half of mix, add the green oxide and into the second half, add the titanium dioxide. Mix each color thoroughly. Pour half of green soap on bottom of mold. Pour half of white soap mix on top. Repeat. Insert wire whisk into soap mix and pull through, creating designs as you go. Be sure to drag whisk along bottom of mold to create swirls throughout the soap.
Pour into 5 pound rectangular slab mold.
Click here for more holiday soap recipes.
Source: http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_cpsoap_15.html
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Melt and Pour Soap Bases
If you have taken a melt and pour soapmaking class from me and were interested in other varieties in soap bases, Snowdrift Farms (http://www.snowdriftfarms.com/) has quite a selection.
They supply the regular white and glycerin, but they carry a selection of premium bases which includes Aloe Vera, Cocoa Butter, Emu Oil, Hemp, Honey, Olive Oil and Olive Oil.
Here is direct link to the soap bases page:
http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/melt_and_pour.html
Make sure to check out other supplies to create your own bath and body products. For those who have taken some of my other classes, Snowdrift Farms sells Dendritic Salt, Citric Acid, Bath Salts, E-Wax, Stearic Acid, bottles and jar and more!
They supply the regular white and glycerin, but they carry a selection of premium bases which includes Aloe Vera, Cocoa Butter, Emu Oil, Hemp, Honey, Olive Oil and Olive Oil.
Here is direct link to the soap bases page:
http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/melt_and_pour.html
Make sure to check out other supplies to create your own bath and body products. For those who have taken some of my other classes, Snowdrift Farms sells Dendritic Salt, Citric Acid, Bath Salts, E-Wax, Stearic Acid, bottles and jar and more!
Homemade Lotions and Creams: Using Emulsifying Wax
Emulsifying wax is the basic component for most body lotions and skin creams. It is basically what keeps the lotions oil and water from separating in the bottle or jar. It does this by attracting both water molecules and oil molecules to its own molecular structure. By doing this it bonds the oil and water together and creates a smooth and creamy texture.
If you are interested in making your own body lotion, body butter, or body creams then you will need to find an emulsifying wax to act as your base. There are six basic types of emulsifying waxes that hobbyists use when making homemade body lotions. These include: Ceteareth 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Emulsifying Wax NF, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth 20, and Polysorbate 20.
While all of the above ingredients are considered emulsifying wax, not all of these emulsifying waxes are appropriate for every type of lotion or cream. Ceteareth 20 is a common thickener and emulsifier for body lotions and creams. However, it works best when it is combined with another emulsifying wax such as Glyceryl Stearate.The amount of emulsifying wax that you use in your oil and water body lotion or cream will depend on what type of emulsifier you use. For example, Emulsifying Wax NF typically makes up between 3 and 6 percent of the total weight of the product being made. Polysorbate 20 is most commonly used for skin moisturizing sprays. When used for in its spray form it is added to the product in a 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 polysorbate 20 to essential oil ratio. If this emulsifier is used in a lotion or cream product then it will need to be used in conjunction with another emulsifier. If you use cetearyl alcohol then you it will need to make up between .1 percent and 3 percent of the products total weight.
For more information on how to make homemade soap as well as soap making recipes visit the http://www.pureandnaturalsoaps.com/. Check out the soap making message board to discuss techniques, share ideas and post your favorite soap and candle making recipes.
Source: http://enaalexzander.ircblog.net/2007/09/06/homemade-lotions-and-skin-creams-using-emulsifying-wax/
If you are interested in making your own body lotion, body butter, or body creams then you will need to find an emulsifying wax to act as your base. There are six basic types of emulsifying waxes that hobbyists use when making homemade body lotions. These include: Ceteareth 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Emulsifying Wax NF, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth 20, and Polysorbate 20.
While all of the above ingredients are considered emulsifying wax, not all of these emulsifying waxes are appropriate for every type of lotion or cream. Ceteareth 20 is a common thickener and emulsifier for body lotions and creams. However, it works best when it is combined with another emulsifying wax such as Glyceryl Stearate.The amount of emulsifying wax that you use in your oil and water body lotion or cream will depend on what type of emulsifier you use. For example, Emulsifying Wax NF typically makes up between 3 and 6 percent of the total weight of the product being made. Polysorbate 20 is most commonly used for skin moisturizing sprays. When used for in its spray form it is added to the product in a 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 polysorbate 20 to essential oil ratio. If this emulsifier is used in a lotion or cream product then it will need to be used in conjunction with another emulsifier. If you use cetearyl alcohol then you it will need to make up between .1 percent and 3 percent of the products total weight.
For more information on how to make homemade soap as well as soap making recipes visit the http://www.pureandnaturalsoaps.com/. Check out the soap making message board to discuss techniques, share ideas and post your favorite soap and candle making recipes.
Source: http://enaalexzander.ircblog.net/2007/09/06/homemade-lotions-and-skin-creams-using-emulsifying-wax/
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Making Soy Candles
Still looking for a last minute Christmas gift idea? Why not make one? Here is a quick and painless way of making soy-candles and it only takes about 15 minutes.
But first, here are some facts about soy wax:
• It’s biodegradeable.
• It’s sustainable.
• It provides a longer burn without a soot buildup.
• You can clean it up with soap and water, eliminating the need for solvents.
• It’s made from 100% natural soybeans.
• It’s sustainable.
• It provides a longer burn without a soot buildup.
• You can clean it up with soap and water, eliminating the need for solvents.
• It’s made from 100% natural soybeans.
Materials needed:
Recycled glassware such as Mason jars, candy dishes, thrift-store cups, salsa and jam jars. (choose containers that are less than 4″ in diameter.)
1 package braided wick (size-appropriate for chosen chandle containers. Incorporate alternative fibers by using hemp wicks.)
Soda-can tab
Tape
Pencil or pen
Melting pot or old cooking pot that you’re no longer using for food
Soy wax flakes (can be found at any healthfood store)
Craft or candy thermometer (optional)
Cinnamon, peppermint or other essential oil
Biodegradeable cotton ribbon (optional)
Hot glue gun and glue
1 package braided wick (size-appropriate for chosen chandle containers. Incorporate alternative fibers by using hemp wicks.)
Soda-can tab
Tape
Pencil or pen
Melting pot or old cooking pot that you’re no longer using for food
Soy wax flakes (can be found at any healthfood store)
Craft or candy thermometer (optional)
Cinnamon, peppermint or other essential oil
Biodegradeable cotton ribbon (optional)
Hot glue gun and glue
Instructions:
1. Cut a section of braided wick a few inches longer than the depth of your chosen glasswater container. Tie an end of the wick to a coda can tab. To stabilize the wick, add a dab of hot glue to the bottom of the tab, then affix tab to the bottom of the container. Wrap top of wick around a pencil or pen a few times and tape it down temporarily. Set aside. Repeat process for additional candles.
2. In a pot over medium heat, melt about 1 lb. of the soy flakes per 1-2 medium0sized candles. Stir continuously until the soy wax melts to about 155 degreeds. Once it’s completely liquedied, remove from the head and let cool for a few minutes, continuing to stir.
3. Once the temperature has dropped about 5 degrees, add 10-20 drops of essential oil of your liking and mix well. Soy wax is easy to work with so you can get by without using a thermometer.
4. Pour liquid wax into containers, leaving an inch or two of space at the top. Let dry overnight. The set soy candles wax should look smooth and creamy-white.
5. Remove tape and pencil from the wick. Leaving about 1″ of exposed wick, snip off excess.
6. If you’re giving these candles as gifts, add a ribbon and tie in a fancy bow. Use hot glue to hold the ribbon on the container in place.
Friday, December 12, 2008
Basil-Citrus Watermint Soap
A pretty soap, speckled with peppermint, and naturally colored peachy-amber by the 5 Fold Valencia Orange oil.
15 oz. sweet almond oil
12 oz. avocado oil
3 oz. babassu oil
3 oz. castor oil
12 oz. cocoa butter, deodorized or ultra-refined (no chocolate scent)
16 oz. coconut oil,
76 degree 8 oz. palm oil
5 oz. shea butter
12 oz. sunflower seed oil
Lye (NaOH): 12.5 oz. by weight
Water: 33 fluid oz.
Fragrance: 1 oz. basil essential oil, 1/2 oz. spearmint essential oil, 1/2 oz. peppermint essential oil, 1 oz. 5 Fold Valencia orange essential oil. Add 1-2 tablespoons of dried peppermint, cut and sifted, if you like.
Yield: about 8 lbs. of soap See our safe soaping instructions
Source: http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_cpsoap_10.html
15 oz. sweet almond oil
12 oz. avocado oil
3 oz. babassu oil
3 oz. castor oil
12 oz. cocoa butter, deodorized or ultra-refined (no chocolate scent)
16 oz. coconut oil,
76 degree 8 oz. palm oil
5 oz. shea butter
12 oz. sunflower seed oil
Lye (NaOH): 12.5 oz. by weight
Water: 33 fluid oz.
Fragrance: 1 oz. basil essential oil, 1/2 oz. spearmint essential oil, 1/2 oz. peppermint essential oil, 1 oz. 5 Fold Valencia orange essential oil. Add 1-2 tablespoons of dried peppermint, cut and sifted, if you like.
Yield: about 8 lbs. of soap See our safe soaping instructions
Source: http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_cpsoap_10.html
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Key Lime Soaps
Submitted by CandleGoddess to Wholesale Supplies Plus Forum
The amounts would vary based on your size of mold/container so I just posted the general idea. These turn out really cute though!
You will need:
Clear MP (I like the Crystal Clear Crafter's Choice, but Clear will work too)
Ultra White MP
Ground Oats
Green/Yellow Colorant of choice
Key Lime Pie Fragrance from WSP
Vanilla Color Stabilizer from WSP
mica (optional)
70% Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle (clearly marked for safety's sake!)
Stainless Steel Bowl
Electric hand mixer
Mold of choice (I like the silicone baking pans and use a 8x8 one)
stainless spoon devoted to B&B
Directions:
Okay, let's get started!
Melt some clear MP (enough to cover the bottom and make a decent crust. Add your ground oats and pour into your silicone baking pan. (The crust portion is so small I don't even bother scenting) Lightly spritz with alcohol to remove any bubbles on top of the soap. Allow to cool until firm to the touch. Soap will still be "warm", but will be solid enough to pour another layer of soap on.
Next, melt your white MP. You should melt enough to form a substantial middle layer. This is your Key Lime filling layer! Once white soap is melted, add your colorants, fragrance & vanilla color stabilizer. (Note: if you add too much fragrance it will decrease the lather!) Spritz a very fine mist of alcohol onto your "crust" and then pour your "filling". Spritz a very light mist of alcohol onto the top of your filling to remove bubbles, then allow to cool until a nice thick skin is on the top of the soap. (This will probably take longer than the crust, because we are talking about more soap having to cool now).
In the meantime, melt some more white soap. I'll bet you were wondering what that mixer was for, weren't you? Now you are going to whip that soap into shape!! Using a clean mixer with clean beaters, whip the soap in the stainless mixing bowl. You may add a pinch of silver mica if you would like....it gives the whipped topping a nice sheen! As the soap cools a bit and you continue to whip it , you will notice it will take on a whipped topping appearance. You can check consistency by lifting the beaters (with the mixer turned off--LOL!!) and seeing if soft peaks form. Once soft peaks form, start spooning the bubbly topping onto the "filling" layer with the stainless spoon.
I choose not to scent my whipped topping and have not tried it with scented soap, FYI. You may have great results just remember to use that vanilla color stabilizer if you want it to stay white!! Keep whipping and spooning, whipping and spooning until you get a nice full whipped topping layer.
That's it ladies and gents! Allow to cool, pop out of mold (this is the easy part if you used silicone) and then cut into squares. A little work involved, but definitely worth the effort!!You can do different variations of this too. Make lemon bars, cheesecake bars, etc. Have fun with it!! I hope you guys enjoy making these as much as I do!
Source: http://forums.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/index.php?showtopic=123&st=0&#entry414
The amounts would vary based on your size of mold/container so I just posted the general idea. These turn out really cute though!
You will need:
Clear MP (I like the Crystal Clear Crafter's Choice, but Clear will work too)
Ultra White MP
Ground Oats
Green/Yellow Colorant of choice
Key Lime Pie Fragrance from WSP
Vanilla Color Stabilizer from WSP
mica (optional)
70% Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle (clearly marked for safety's sake!)
Stainless Steel Bowl
Electric hand mixer
Mold of choice (I like the silicone baking pans and use a 8x8 one)
stainless spoon devoted to B&B
Directions:
Okay, let's get started!
Melt some clear MP (enough to cover the bottom and make a decent crust. Add your ground oats and pour into your silicone baking pan. (The crust portion is so small I don't even bother scenting) Lightly spritz with alcohol to remove any bubbles on top of the soap. Allow to cool until firm to the touch. Soap will still be "warm", but will be solid enough to pour another layer of soap on.
Next, melt your white MP. You should melt enough to form a substantial middle layer. This is your Key Lime filling layer! Once white soap is melted, add your colorants, fragrance & vanilla color stabilizer. (Note: if you add too much fragrance it will decrease the lather!) Spritz a very fine mist of alcohol onto your "crust" and then pour your "filling". Spritz a very light mist of alcohol onto the top of your filling to remove bubbles, then allow to cool until a nice thick skin is on the top of the soap. (This will probably take longer than the crust, because we are talking about more soap having to cool now).
In the meantime, melt some more white soap. I'll bet you were wondering what that mixer was for, weren't you? Now you are going to whip that soap into shape!! Using a clean mixer with clean beaters, whip the soap in the stainless mixing bowl. You may add a pinch of silver mica if you would like....it gives the whipped topping a nice sheen! As the soap cools a bit and you continue to whip it , you will notice it will take on a whipped topping appearance. You can check consistency by lifting the beaters (with the mixer turned off--LOL!!) and seeing if soft peaks form. Once soft peaks form, start spooning the bubbly topping onto the "filling" layer with the stainless spoon.
I choose not to scent my whipped topping and have not tried it with scented soap, FYI. You may have great results just remember to use that vanilla color stabilizer if you want it to stay white!! Keep whipping and spooning, whipping and spooning until you get a nice full whipped topping layer.
That's it ladies and gents! Allow to cool, pop out of mold (this is the easy part if you used silicone) and then cut into squares. A little work involved, but definitely worth the effort!!You can do different variations of this too. Make lemon bars, cheesecake bars, etc. Have fun with it!! I hope you guys enjoy making these as much as I do!
Source: http://forums.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/index.php?showtopic=123&st=0&#entry414
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Candy Cane Bath Salts #2
Candy canes are one of the Christmas season's mainstays. To me it just is not Christmas without them. So I wanted to find a bath salt recipe that would be synomous with the season. The first I found was this one. It is a very simple recipe which makes 20 ounces and will only take 15 minutes to make.
Put these bath salts in a pretty container with a festive bow and a few real candy canes and you'll have a great holiday gift to give or to keep. Peppermint tends to be stimulating, so these bath salts are best for the morning or a mid-day pick-me-up rather than for use before sleeping. To use the salts, toss a handful into the bath.
Tools
* 2 mixing bowls or sealable plastic bags
* measuring cups
* spoon
* large jar or bottle
* ribbon or other decoration (optional)
Ingredients
* 2 cups Epsom salts
* 1/2 cup rock salt or sea salt
* 4-5 drops peppermint oil
* 2-3 drops red food coloring [may substitute natural red color (e.g., pickled beet juice) if desired]
Directions
(1) Mix 1 cup of Epsom salts and 1/4 cup of rock/sea salt in a bowl or baggie.
(2) Add 2 or 3 drops of peppermint oil and mix well.
(3) Mix 1 cup of Epsom salts and 1/4 cup of rock/sea salt in the other bowl or baggie.
(4) Add a drop of red coloring to the second bowl or bag.
(5) Mix well and continue to add color and mix until the desired color is achieved.
(6) Add 2 or 3 drops of peppermint oil to the red salt mixture.
(7) Mix the scented red salt mixture.
(8) Pour a layer of red salt into the bottom of the jar or bottle.
(9) Add a layer of the white salt mixture.
(10) Layer alternating bands of red and white salts to create a candy cane stripe effect.
(11) Seal the container and decorate it as desired.
I also found this recipe on ehow.com that you may also want to try - http://www.ehow.com/how_2149638_candy-cane-bath-salts.html.
Put these bath salts in a pretty container with a festive bow and a few real candy canes and you'll have a great holiday gift to give or to keep. Peppermint tends to be stimulating, so these bath salts are best for the morning or a mid-day pick-me-up rather than for use before sleeping. To use the salts, toss a handful into the bath.
Tools
* 2 mixing bowls or sealable plastic bags
* measuring cups
* spoon
* large jar or bottle
* ribbon or other decoration (optional)
Ingredients
* 2 cups Epsom salts
* 1/2 cup rock salt or sea salt
* 4-5 drops peppermint oil
* 2-3 drops red food coloring [may substitute natural red color (e.g., pickled beet juice) if desired]
Directions
(1) Mix 1 cup of Epsom salts and 1/4 cup of rock/sea salt in a bowl or baggie.
(2) Add 2 or 3 drops of peppermint oil and mix well.
(3) Mix 1 cup of Epsom salts and 1/4 cup of rock/sea salt in the other bowl or baggie.
(4) Add a drop of red coloring to the second bowl or bag.
(5) Mix well and continue to add color and mix until the desired color is achieved.
(6) Add 2 or 3 drops of peppermint oil to the red salt mixture.
(7) Mix the scented red salt mixture.
(8) Pour a layer of red salt into the bottom of the jar or bottle.
(9) Add a layer of the white salt mixture.
(10) Layer alternating bands of red and white salts to create a candy cane stripe effect.
(11) Seal the container and decorate it as desired.
I also found this recipe on ehow.com that you may also want to try - http://www.ehow.com/how_2149638_candy-cane-bath-salts.html.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Holiday Sachet Beads
By: Dee & Debbie L.
Customer Service at Wholesale Supplies Plus
Ingredients
(1) 8 oz Mason Jars
(1) 70/400 Daisy Lid
8 Tablespoons Unscented Sachet Beads
2 Tablespoons Peppermint Candy FO
5 drops Red Liquid Candle Color
5 drops Hunter Green Liquid Candle Color
Equipment
(2) 8 oz Mason Jars (for mixing)
(2) 70/400 Smooth Lids
Measuring Spoons
Directions
So Simple! Place newspaper on work surface. Add 1 Tablespoon of fragrance oil in two different mason jars (1 Tablespoon in each jar). Add 5 drops of red color to one jar and 5 drops of green color to the other jar. Add 4 Tablespoons of unscented sachet beads to each jar. Place lid on each jar and shake well. Allow all of fluid to absorb into beads. This may take up to 3 days.
While you are waiting, have fun decorating your jar. Christmas is especially fun because there are so many options! Once your beads are dry, layer them in the third mason jar. Cover with daisy lid. Note: If you are making and packaging this as a gift, use a 70mm press and seal disc to protect beads from falling out of daisy cut lid.
Wishing You Much Success!
Debbie May
http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/
1-800-359-0944
Source: http://wholesalesuppliesplus.blogspot.com/search/label/Recipes:%20%20Room%20Scenting
Customer Service at Wholesale Supplies Plus
Ingredients
(1) 8 oz Mason Jars
(1) 70/400 Daisy Lid
8 Tablespoons Unscented Sachet Beads
2 Tablespoons Peppermint Candy FO
5 drops Red Liquid Candle Color
5 drops Hunter Green Liquid Candle Color
Equipment
(2) 8 oz Mason Jars (for mixing)
(2) 70/400 Smooth Lids
Measuring Spoons
Directions
So Simple! Place newspaper on work surface. Add 1 Tablespoon of fragrance oil in two different mason jars (1 Tablespoon in each jar). Add 5 drops of red color to one jar and 5 drops of green color to the other jar. Add 4 Tablespoons of unscented sachet beads to each jar. Place lid on each jar and shake well. Allow all of fluid to absorb into beads. This may take up to 3 days.
While you are waiting, have fun decorating your jar. Christmas is especially fun because there are so many options! Once your beads are dry, layer them in the third mason jar. Cover with daisy lid. Note: If you are making and packaging this as a gift, use a 70mm press and seal disc to protect beads from falling out of daisy cut lid.
Wishing You Much Success!
Debbie May
http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/
1-800-359-0944
Source: http://wholesalesuppliesplus.blogspot.com/search/label/Recipes:%20%20Room%20Scenting
Monday, December 8, 2008
Christmas Chunk Soap
Need a quick addition to a holiday basket? Looking for a little extra treat for your bathroom during the holidays? Try this easy melt and pour soap project - Christmas Chunk Soaps. Here is the link for step by step instructions.
Have fun! And let us know how your soaps turned out.
Have fun! And let us know how your soaps turned out.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Peppermint Lip Balm
This soothing and healing lip balm has the tingly fresh sensation of mint. It will help heal and protect your lips from the elements. The peppermint essential oil is added for flavoring and fragrance. Other food grade essential oils and/or flavorings can be substituted for the peppermint.
Ingredients:
1 oz. pure, filtered beeswax
1/2 cup sweet almond oil
1/2 teaspoon vitamin e oil
1/4 teaspoon aloe vera concentrate
1/2 teaspoon peppermint essential oil
lip balm pots or tubes
Instructions:
Combine beeswax, sweet almond oil, vitamin e oil and aloe vera concentrate in a small, pourable container (a glass measuring cup works well). Place this container in a saucepan fill with approximately 2 inches of water. Heat the mixture over medium heat until the beeswax is completed melted. Remove from heat and add essential oil. Pour into containers. Cool completely before use. Makes approximately two dozen 5 gram (.15 oz.) pots or tubes.
Source: http://www.soapmakersupplies.com/soapmaking/SoapRecipes_Home.html#Lori
Ingredients:
1 oz. pure, filtered beeswax
1/2 cup sweet almond oil
1/2 teaspoon vitamin e oil
1/4 teaspoon aloe vera concentrate
1/2 teaspoon peppermint essential oil
lip balm pots or tubes
Instructions:
Combine beeswax, sweet almond oil, vitamin e oil and aloe vera concentrate in a small, pourable container (a glass measuring cup works well). Place this container in a saucepan fill with approximately 2 inches of water. Heat the mixture over medium heat until the beeswax is completed melted. Remove from heat and add essential oil. Pour into containers. Cool completely before use. Makes approximately two dozen 5 gram (.15 oz.) pots or tubes.
Source: http://www.soapmakersupplies.com/soapmaking/SoapRecipes_Home.html#Lori
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Bath Snowballs from Martha Stewart
In the December 2008 issue of Martha Stewart Living there are some body product recipes that appear on pages 118 - 122. There are recipes for lip balms, body scrubs, bath fizzies, and snow balls. I wanted to particularly share this one because it seemed unique. And I want to try this one out for size.
These fragrant spheres for the bath (we scented ours with peppermint oil) are made by packing Epsom salts into a plastic mold. The bath "snowballs" can be tinted any color. You'll need 3 to 4 days to make the bath balls because of the drying time between steps.
Recipe Yields: 2 large or 4 small balls.
Tools and Materials
2 cups Epsom salts
2 tablespoons water
A few drops essential oil(s)
1 drop food coloring, plus more if desired (blogger note: I would recommend a skin safe liquid colorant rather than food coloring. You can find a liquid colorant in the soap making/candlemaking section at your local Michaels or Joann or whoever carries Life of the Party soap making products)
Special equipment: plastic pipette, large or small round bath-ball molds, storage jars
Directions
1. Stir together Epsom salts and water in a mixing bowl. Using pipette, add oil, 1 drop at a time, until strength of scent is to your liking. Add food coloring, 1 drop at a time, until desired shade is achieved; stir until color is even throughout.
2. Spoon a generous amount of mixture (more than necessary) into 1/2 of a bath-ball mold. Pack firmly. Repeat, packing mixture into second half of mold. Press pieces together until they connect. Remove top half of mold very carefully. Let bath ball stand, mold side down, overnight (set ball on an overturned jar lid to keep it from tipping over).
3. Remove mold carefully. Invert, and let ball dry completely, 2 to 3 days more. Transfer to jars.
These fragrant spheres for the bath (we scented ours with peppermint oil) are made by packing Epsom salts into a plastic mold. The bath "snowballs" can be tinted any color. You'll need 3 to 4 days to make the bath balls because of the drying time between steps.
Recipe Yields: 2 large or 4 small balls.
Tools and Materials
2 cups Epsom salts
2 tablespoons water
A few drops essential oil(s)
1 drop food coloring, plus more if desired (blogger note: I would recommend a skin safe liquid colorant rather than food coloring. You can find a liquid colorant in the soap making/candlemaking section at your local Michaels or Joann or whoever carries Life of the Party soap making products)
Special equipment: plastic pipette, large or small round bath-ball molds, storage jars
Directions
1. Stir together Epsom salts and water in a mixing bowl. Using pipette, add oil, 1 drop at a time, until strength of scent is to your liking. Add food coloring, 1 drop at a time, until desired shade is achieved; stir until color is even throughout.
2. Spoon a generous amount of mixture (more than necessary) into 1/2 of a bath-ball mold. Pack firmly. Repeat, packing mixture into second half of mold. Press pieces together until they connect. Remove top half of mold very carefully. Let bath ball stand, mold side down, overnight (set ball on an overturned jar lid to keep it from tipping over).
3. Remove mold carefully. Invert, and let ball dry completely, 2 to 3 days more. Transfer to jars.
Gift-Packaging Idea
Use a glass kitchen canister to present the bath balls, which the recipient can then display on a vanity. Wrap the jar with ribbon, tying a bow at the top, and add a vellum gift tag threaded with cord in a matching color.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/natural-beauties-bath-snowballs
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/natural-beauties-bath-snowballs
Friday, December 5, 2008
Collagen Lotion Recipe
If you are interested in making your own lotion with collagen in it, I found this recipe from Snowdrift Farms for you to try. Let me know how it turns out!
If you have any other lotion recipes you would like to share, please let me know.
If you have any other lotion recipes you would like to share, please let me know.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Holiday Bath Salts
If you have taken my bath salts and body scrubs class, I found a two part clip on You Tube a recipe for making a holiday version.
Give it a try and let me know how you like it. If you have any recipes you would like to share, please contact me.
Give it a try and let me know how you like it. If you have any recipes you would like to share, please contact me.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Holiday Bath Scrubs
If you have taken my bath salts and body scrubs class, I found a clip on You Tube a recipe for making a holiday version.
Give it a try and let me know how you like it.
Give it a try and let me know how you like it.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Striped Soaps from Martha Stewart
Delight someone with a fresh-scented and boldly striped soap. Purchase clear and white glycerin soap at a crafts store. Use a mini loaf pan as a mold; each "loaf" of soap requires 2 cups of each soap and yields six bars of soap.
How-To
1. Melt the glycerin according to the package instructions, using 1/4 cup at a time.
2. Stir in a drop of peppermint oil (available at most health-food stores) with a plastic spoon; for the clear glycerin, add drops of red food coloring, stirring until you get the desired hue.
3. Pour the 1/4 cup of melted soap into the loaf pan. Let cool for 20 minutes.
4. Score the top with a fork. Repeat, alternating colors, until the pan is full.
5. Let set for 4 hours. Pop soap out of pan, and slice into bars.
6. Wrap each bar in cellophane; tape it shut, and tie with bakery string.
7. Cut holly-leaf tags out of green construction paper.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/striped-soaps?autonomy_kw=peppermint%20layered%20soap&rsc=header_2
How-To
1. Melt the glycerin according to the package instructions, using 1/4 cup at a time.
2. Stir in a drop of peppermint oil (available at most health-food stores) with a plastic spoon; for the clear glycerin, add drops of red food coloring, stirring until you get the desired hue.
3. Pour the 1/4 cup of melted soap into the loaf pan. Let cool for 20 minutes.
4. Score the top with a fork. Repeat, alternating colors, until the pan is full.
5. Let set for 4 hours. Pop soap out of pan, and slice into bars.
6. Wrap each bar in cellophane; tape it shut, and tie with bakery string.
7. Cut holly-leaf tags out of green construction paper.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/striped-soaps?autonomy_kw=peppermint%20layered%20soap&rsc=header_2
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