Human studies have convincingly demonstrated pronounced photo protective effects of 'natural' and synthetic antioxidants when applied topically before UVR exposure. Particularly with respect to UVB-induced skin damage such as erythema formation, the photoprotective effects of antioxidants are significant when applied in distinct mixtures in appropriate vehicles. One of the basic criteria for cosmetic and personal-care formulations is for them to have a shelf life sufficient enough to ensure product quality when purchased within a reasonable period of time. The ability of a product to resist oxidation is an important component of customer satisfaction. A stable formula will help ensure that the desired functionality and appearance of the product will not be significantly altered over time because of exposure to air. Oxidation and rancidity are primary adversaries to the cosmetic formulator. They have been and will continue to be a challenge in formulating.
Linoleic acid is as part of the upper skin (stratum corneum) vital for the skin's barrier function and exhibits important skin-care and restorative properties. Linoleic acid is very susceptible to oxidation. On contact with air and light, it rapidly develops a highly rancid odor. Complexing the linoleic acid with cyclodextrins (example: Cavamax W6/linoleic acid) stabilizes the active linoleic acid by encapsulating in alpha-cyclodextrins. Linoleic acid is thus shielded against air and chemical attack.
Natural oils are good sources for tocopherols and phytosterols, components offering both antioxidant activity and bioactivity for skin care applications. Many common natural oils such as rapeseed oil, sunflower oil and soybean oil are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, mainly linoleic (18:2n-6) and "-linolenic (18:3n-3) acids. These natural oils are desirable emollients for skin care applications.
Wheat Germ Oil is an antioxidant with more Vitamin E than any other natural oil making it more resistant to light and heat than other vegetable oils. Wheat Germ Oil also contains smaller amounts of Vitamin A, Vitamin B (B1, B2, B3 and B6), Vitamin F and lecithin. It is primarily used as an emollient to moisturize and relieve dry, irritated skin. Wheat Germ Oil possesses cell regenerative properties that make it a good choice for anti-aging formulas.
Avocado oil - is deeply hydrating and highly compatible with your skin's own oils. It is also a powerful anti-oxidant and is brimming with high levels of chlorophyll, vitamin E and omegas 3 and 9 to improve the health and vitality of your skin.
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates (Vital ET) is a unique bio-functional form of Vitamin E with excellent skin lubricity. It is easy to formulate into oil and water based systems and is compatible with a broad range of raw materials.
Hazelnut oil contains a non-polar fraction (98.8%) almost completely composed by triacylglycerides and almost 90% of the unsaturated fatty acids are monounsaturated ones, which results in less oil oxidation . The polar lipids (1.2%) are phosphatidylcholine, hosphatidylethanolamine and phophatidylinositol. Hazelnut oil is highly recommendable to formulate cosmetic products to protect the integrity of skin and hair against the oxidation process. Hazelnut oil can delay the oxidation process because of its high vitamin E content.
Jojoba oil has excellent inherent emollient and moisturizing properties - coupled to its oxidative stability properties. It is one of the world's top lipid cosmetic ingredients often used in anti-aging skincare.
Cocoa Butter is one of the most stable fats known, loaded with natural antioxidants that prevent rancidity and give it a shelf life of two to five years. It softens and lubricates the skin, assisting in reducing stretch marks and scars making it an excellent massage cream. It performance as an antioxidant, emollient, and lubricant.
Sweet almond oil has a long historical use that includes restoring itchy, dry and inflamed skin as well as being a simple emollient. It contains 24% linoleic acid, an incredibly high amount of the antioxidant EFA. Many massage therapists use this oil as a lubricant. Almond oil performs as an antioxidant, emollient, and lubricant.
Shea Butter is used as an emollient and moisturizer in cosmetics. High in vitamin E, an anti-aging antioxidant that increases micro-circulation, it also contains the antioxidants beta-carotene and vitamin A.
Extracted from the husk of a rice plant, rice oil is a lipid with UV-absorbent and antioxidant properties, which are actually enhanced in the presence of amino acids. The natural emollient also has a high content of unsaturated acids that help to maintain healthy skin. Its smooth, non-greasy feel makes it a good natural emollient and conditioner in skin care, sun care and hair care products.
Finally, Lecithin is a natural anti-oxidant and emollient mainly derived from common egg yolk or from naturally occurring phospholipids derived from soybeans. Lecithin is used commercially in substances requiring a natural emulsifier and/or lubricant, from pharmaceuticals to protective coverings. Lecithin is a mixture of various phospholipids, and the composition depends on the origin of the lecithin. A major source of lecithin is Soybean oil.
Source: http://www.specialchem4cosmetics.com/services/articles.aspx?id=3873
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