A natural, soothing soap suitable for all skin types. The oatmeal exfoliates with a gentle touch as the honey nourishes your skin. The toasted oatmeal gives the soap a pleasant warm scent that blends delightfully with the honey aroma. Recipe makes four 3-ounce bars.
Materials Needed
Fields Landing Soap Factory -
Creamy Coconut Soap Base: 12 ounces
Honey Fragrance Oil: 10 -15 drops
Orange & Black Liquid Colorants: 4 drops orange and 2 drops black
Standard Bar Soap Shapes Mold # 71120
1 Tablespoon whole toasted oatmeal (regular, not instant)
1 Tablespoon liquid honey
2 Cup Pyrex measuring cup
Metal spoon
Microwave (or follow manufactures directions for melting in a double boiler)
Directions
1. Slice soap into thin 1/8" strips for quick, easy melting.
2. Place sliced soap into your measuring cup and microwave for approximately 45 seconds to 1 minute on high. The melting time will vary depending on the amount of soap. Remove and stir lightly. Continue to microwave at 15-second intervals until completely melted.
3. Mix in the honey and the oatmeal.
4. Add drops of the honey fragrance until desired level of fragrance is achieved.
5. Add the Orange and Black colorants for a very light amber coloring.
6. Mix the soap as it cools until it becomes jelly-like. This helps to distribute the botanicals evenly throughout the soap, rather than sinking to the bottom of the mold.
7. Pour the soap into the small rectangular shaped mold. Let the soap cool and harden completely before removing from mold. The soap will pop out easily when completely set. For a fast set, allow the soap to cool for 1 minute then cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator until cooled.
Copyright 2004 - Environmental Technology Inc. - http://www.eti-usa.com/
Source: http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/Soap/Soap%20Recipe%204.htm
Monday, June 30, 2008
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Make Your Own Vegan Skin Care Products
Every winter many of us living in cold climates have to battle the snow, lots of tourists skiing, and dry skin. I have had to come up with a completely animal-free skin cream for my family that nourishes and soothes chapped dry skin.
In this article I will show you how to make a few simple, ordinarily costly products, including a rich allover body cream, under-eye wrinkle cream, a foot soothing cream, and a lotion. Such products frequently contain animal byproducts such as beeswax, urea, lanolin, and an assortment of animal proteins. Often, we are unaware of the animal products we put on our skin.
The products below are not only cruelty-free but affordable. These items make wonderful presents. Most supplies are readily available at health food stores, coops, and drug stores. Some may even find them at your local grocer or large whole foods market. I am able to find all of my ingredients at the local food co-op and I live in a town of 6,000 people. Most co-ops and health food stores will order what you need at no extra cost.
Make sure you buy the pure base ingredients. I also strongly suggest spending a little more on high quality and organic oils. These will assure that no unnecessary chemicals or pesticides are applied to your skin.
The first recipe is for a thick, modifiable body cream. As you grow more comfortable, you can add herbal infusions, extracts, and special blends of essential oils to make your cream the way you want. All of the products in this article use the base recipe.
SUPPLIES
Jars and storage containers. Wide mouthed containers are easier to fill. You can use jars like baby food jars or unique jars you can find at a craft or home decor shop. You want to be able to put your hand in the cream jar, or be able to scoop from it. For the lotion you can reuse squeezable plastic containers.
Food processor or blender.
Rubber spatula
Funnel for lotion variation
INGREDIENTS
I've categorized the ingredients into two separate groups, the oils and the waters. All lotions and creams are emulsifications of water and oil.
Oils 3/4 cup of one of the following:
Apricot (a good light oil for oily skin)
Almond (for a rich non-greasy or heavy oil)
Olive (great for a rich, thick, wintertime cream)
Soy (for a nice economical cream) (You can use a blend of the oils as long as 3/4 of a cup is the final measurement.)
1/3 cup Coconut Oil 2 Tablespoons Mango Butter or Kokum Butter (These are nut butters from the seeds of these plants.)
1/2 ounce Shea Butter, Candelilla Wax, or Carnauba Wax (Both waxes are plant source waxes. Shea butter comes from the seeds of the Karite tree.)
Waters -2/3 cup Distilled Water (You can also use floral water made from distilled water and flowers.)
1/2 cup Aloe Vera (Buy this; when the Aloe comes from a fresh plant source, the cream can become rancid.)
2 Vitamin E Caps or a (r) teaspoon Vitamin E Powder (Some vegan sources of Vitamin E are from SolaRay, Higher Nature Natural Vitamin E, and Pioneer vitamin companies.)
2-3 drops Essential Oil (optional) (An essential oil is fluid that is generally distilled from
the leaves, stems, flowers, bark, roots, or other elements of a plant. Please use with caution;
as a little goes a long way.)
BASIC CREAM
The next part can be a little tricky:
Heat the oils over low heat until the solid oils melt into the liquid oils. Also, warm the water (but not the entire water group). When the water and the oil cool to about the same temperature, add the water and the rest of the water group to your blender. Blend. Next, slowly add a small amount of the oil mixture and blend, then add a little more and blend. Do this until the whole mixture is blended. Once both are mixed, continue to blend for a bit, maybe a minute or so, until the mixture looks like white frosting. The mixture, which is now cream, will continue to thicken as it sets.
WHAT IF I MESS UP?
If you mess up and the mixture doesn't emulsify properly, you can do the following:
Pour off the water (you may have to scoop out a teaspoon of oil base to reveal the water).
Put the water in a separate container from the oil.
Warm both up again. When they cool to close to the same temperature, place the water into the blender and slowly add the oil again as you blend.
Or to make it even easier for yourself, you can shake vigorously before using.
Variation 1: Under-Eye Cream
Add 1 teaspoon carrot seed and 1 teaspoon borage oil to the oil group (both can be found at a health food store). Add the following essential oils to the water group, a drop or two of each: neroli oil and cypress oil. Add no more than five drops for the mixture. Continue to follow the Basic Cream directions.
Variation 2: Foot Cream
Add an additional Tablespoon of mango butter or shea butter to the oil group. Add to the water group 2 drops each of these essential oils: peppermint and lavender. Make the Foot Cream as you would the Basic Cream
Variation 3: Body Lotion
How thick you want your lotion is a personal choice; so I am going to give basic suggestions that you can modify as time goes by. The basic variation is as follows: add 2 extra Tablespoons water to the water group and 1 additional Tablespoon of Aloe Vera. As time goes on and as you become more experienced, you can make it with more liquid oils and less hard oils, and more floral waters, teas, and herbal oil infusions. Some great essential oils to add would be lavender, rose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, or jasmine. Essential oils can be found in herb shops, health food stores, or food co-ops. You can use cleaned lotion bottles or smaller shampoo bottles. Have a lotion-making party and make the lotion with friends. Give the prepared lotions as gifts. Make nice labels and wrap with raffia and ribbon and you have a finished, very special, and personalized gift. Following these recipes will give you plenty of lotion.
Editors' Note: Be very careful when working with hot ingredients. Pay attention to any allergies you may have. VRG has not tested these products, so use your own judgement.
Demetria Clark is a Certified Herbalist and owner of a vegan body care and herbal product line called Goddess Garden. Visit her website.
COPYRIGHT 2001 Vegetarian Resource Group COPYRIGHT 2001 Gale Group
Source: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0FDE/is_1_20/ai_68913297/pg_2
In this article I will show you how to make a few simple, ordinarily costly products, including a rich allover body cream, under-eye wrinkle cream, a foot soothing cream, and a lotion. Such products frequently contain animal byproducts such as beeswax, urea, lanolin, and an assortment of animal proteins. Often, we are unaware of the animal products we put on our skin.
The products below are not only cruelty-free but affordable. These items make wonderful presents. Most supplies are readily available at health food stores, coops, and drug stores. Some may even find them at your local grocer or large whole foods market. I am able to find all of my ingredients at the local food co-op and I live in a town of 6,000 people. Most co-ops and health food stores will order what you need at no extra cost.
Make sure you buy the pure base ingredients. I also strongly suggest spending a little more on high quality and organic oils. These will assure that no unnecessary chemicals or pesticides are applied to your skin.
The first recipe is for a thick, modifiable body cream. As you grow more comfortable, you can add herbal infusions, extracts, and special blends of essential oils to make your cream the way you want. All of the products in this article use the base recipe.
SUPPLIES
Jars and storage containers. Wide mouthed containers are easier to fill. You can use jars like baby food jars or unique jars you can find at a craft or home decor shop. You want to be able to put your hand in the cream jar, or be able to scoop from it. For the lotion you can reuse squeezable plastic containers.
Food processor or blender.
Rubber spatula
Funnel for lotion variation
INGREDIENTS
I've categorized the ingredients into two separate groups, the oils and the waters. All lotions and creams are emulsifications of water and oil.
Oils 3/4 cup of one of the following:
Apricot (a good light oil for oily skin)
Almond (for a rich non-greasy or heavy oil)
Olive (great for a rich, thick, wintertime cream)
Soy (for a nice economical cream) (You can use a blend of the oils as long as 3/4 of a cup is the final measurement.)
1/3 cup Coconut Oil 2 Tablespoons Mango Butter or Kokum Butter (These are nut butters from the seeds of these plants.)
1/2 ounce Shea Butter, Candelilla Wax, or Carnauba Wax (Both waxes are plant source waxes. Shea butter comes from the seeds of the Karite tree.)
Waters -2/3 cup Distilled Water (You can also use floral water made from distilled water and flowers.)
1/2 cup Aloe Vera (Buy this; when the Aloe comes from a fresh plant source, the cream can become rancid.)
2 Vitamin E Caps or a (r) teaspoon Vitamin E Powder (Some vegan sources of Vitamin E are from SolaRay, Higher Nature Natural Vitamin E, and Pioneer vitamin companies.)
2-3 drops Essential Oil (optional) (An essential oil is fluid that is generally distilled from
the leaves, stems, flowers, bark, roots, or other elements of a plant. Please use with caution;
as a little goes a long way.)
BASIC CREAM
The next part can be a little tricky:
Heat the oils over low heat until the solid oils melt into the liquid oils. Also, warm the water (but not the entire water group). When the water and the oil cool to about the same temperature, add the water and the rest of the water group to your blender. Blend. Next, slowly add a small amount of the oil mixture and blend, then add a little more and blend. Do this until the whole mixture is blended. Once both are mixed, continue to blend for a bit, maybe a minute or so, until the mixture looks like white frosting. The mixture, which is now cream, will continue to thicken as it sets.
WHAT IF I MESS UP?
If you mess up and the mixture doesn't emulsify properly, you can do the following:
Pour off the water (you may have to scoop out a teaspoon of oil base to reveal the water).
Put the water in a separate container from the oil.
Warm both up again. When they cool to close to the same temperature, place the water into the blender and slowly add the oil again as you blend.
Or to make it even easier for yourself, you can shake vigorously before using.
Variation 1: Under-Eye Cream
Add 1 teaspoon carrot seed and 1 teaspoon borage oil to the oil group (both can be found at a health food store). Add the following essential oils to the water group, a drop or two of each: neroli oil and cypress oil. Add no more than five drops for the mixture. Continue to follow the Basic Cream directions.
Variation 2: Foot Cream
Add an additional Tablespoon of mango butter or shea butter to the oil group. Add to the water group 2 drops each of these essential oils: peppermint and lavender. Make the Foot Cream as you would the Basic Cream
Variation 3: Body Lotion
How thick you want your lotion is a personal choice; so I am going to give basic suggestions that you can modify as time goes by. The basic variation is as follows: add 2 extra Tablespoons water to the water group and 1 additional Tablespoon of Aloe Vera. As time goes on and as you become more experienced, you can make it with more liquid oils and less hard oils, and more floral waters, teas, and herbal oil infusions. Some great essential oils to add would be lavender, rose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, or jasmine. Essential oils can be found in herb shops, health food stores, or food co-ops. You can use cleaned lotion bottles or smaller shampoo bottles. Have a lotion-making party and make the lotion with friends. Give the prepared lotions as gifts. Make nice labels and wrap with raffia and ribbon and you have a finished, very special, and personalized gift. Following these recipes will give you plenty of lotion.
Editors' Note: Be very careful when working with hot ingredients. Pay attention to any allergies you may have. VRG has not tested these products, so use your own judgement.
Demetria Clark is a Certified Herbalist and owner of a vegan body care and herbal product line called Goddess Garden. Visit her website
COPYRIGHT 2001 Vegetarian Resource Group COPYRIGHT 2001 Gale Group
Source: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0FDE/is_1_20/ai_68913297/pg_2
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Vegan Lotion Recipe
Soothing Lotion
Ingredients (use vegan versions):
25 ml pure vegetable oil-based lotion
2 ml jojoba oil
3 ml calendula (macerated/infused) oil
2 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops Roman chamomile e.o.
2 drops sandalwood e.o.
Directions:
Gives a 1% dilution. The small quantities of carrier oil are not essential, but do improve the lotion. This lotion is designed to soothe irritated skin, and is mild enough to use on young children or eczema sufferers. It is particularly useful after removing hair from your legs, whether by shaving, waxing, or epilating. It is a very calming lotion, and is also beneficial for insomnia.
Source: http://vegweb.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=2b901a5f7306fe9b4f9cf11c22f6be23&topic=10617.0
Ingredients (use vegan versions):
25 ml pure vegetable oil-based lotion
2 ml jojoba oil
3 ml calendula (macerated/infused) oil
2 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops Roman chamomile e.o.
2 drops sandalwood e.o.
Directions:
Gives a 1% dilution. The small quantities of carrier oil are not essential, but do improve the lotion. This lotion is designed to soothe irritated skin, and is mild enough to use on young children or eczema sufferers. It is particularly useful after removing hair from your legs, whether by shaving, waxing, or epilating. It is a very calming lotion, and is also beneficial for insomnia.
Source: http://vegweb.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=2b901a5f7306fe9b4f9cf11c22f6be23&topic=10617.0
Friday, June 27, 2008
Whitening Sage Tooth Powder
(from Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox)
Mix together 1 tsp each of baking soda, table salt, and dried sage.
Scoop onto a dampened toothbrush and brush as usual.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.motherearthliving.com/issues/motherearthliving/natural_health/Recipes-to-Make-Your-Own-Soap-Lotion-More_562-1.html
Mix together 1 tsp each of baking soda, table salt, and dried sage.
Scoop onto a dampened toothbrush and brush as usual.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.motherearthliving.com/issues/motherearthliving/natural_health/Recipes-to-Make-Your-Own-Soap-Lotion-More_562-1.html
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Waterproof Labels
Are you looking for waterproof labels for your products? Here are a few suggestions from the posters at the Soap Making Forum:
If anyone has ordered these particular labels, will you please let everyone know what you thought about them. It is nice to hear from people who have actually used this particular product, holds up, etc. Any feedback would help.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Difference Between Fragrant Waters & Aromatic Hydrosols
According to Kathi Keville and Mindy Green, authors of Aromatherapy...A Complete Guide to the Healing Art, fragrant waters are made by adding essential oils to distilled water. They are called "fragrant waters" to distinguish them from true aromatic hydrosols. Fragrant waters are less expensive but less effective as moisturizing agents, because they don't contain the same hydrorophilic compounds as hydrosols.
So what can you use fragrant waters for? It depends on the essential oils that you choose. You can spray or splash on fragrant waters after your daily shower to cool down on a hot day or whenever you are in the mood for an instant aromatherapy boost.
But whatever the reason for using them, fragrant waters are easy to make, and allow the application of diluted essential oils to your skin without the use of vegetable oil.
On the other hand, aromatic hydrosols (aka hydrolats) are effective as toner that they are given their own section. Aromatic hydrosols are produced during the essential oil distillation process which means they can be beneficial to your beauty regiment. Hydrosols are impregnated with water soluble (hydrophyllic) compounds that are not present in essential oils. What is great about hydrosols is that they are great used alone as toner or added as an ingredient in masks or in lotions. A wide range of hydrosols are not available at the retail outlets, but they can be purchased by mail order.
So what can you use fragrant waters for? It depends on the essential oils that you choose. You can spray or splash on fragrant waters after your daily shower to cool down on a hot day or whenever you are in the mood for an instant aromatherapy boost.
But whatever the reason for using them, fragrant waters are easy to make, and allow the application of diluted essential oils to your skin without the use of vegetable oil.
On the other hand, aromatic hydrosols (aka hydrolats) are effective as toner that they are given their own section. Aromatic hydrosols are produced during the essential oil distillation process which means they can be beneficial to your beauty regiment. Hydrosols are impregnated with water soluble (hydrophyllic) compounds that are not present in essential oils. What is great about hydrosols is that they are great used alone as toner or added as an ingredient in masks or in lotions. A wide range of hydrosols are not available at the retail outlets, but they can be purchased by mail order.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Soap and Candle Notebook
From David Fisher,Your Guide to Candle & Soap Making.
FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!
Definition
A notebook to:
(1) Plan out the recipes, colors, scents,variations and techniques for your soap and candle making projects.
(2) Plan out the fragrance or essential oil blends.
(3) Record any ideas, problems, or changes you make while you're making your soap and candle projects.
(4) And finally, your results. How did the project come out?In the months and years to come, your notebook will become stained with oils and wax, smeared with colorants, and will smell like a fragrance oil store...but it will contain very valuable information should you ever want to repeat a success or not repeat a "not-quite-a-success".
Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapglossary/g/soapcandlebook.htm
FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!
Definition
A notebook to:
(1) Plan out the recipes, colors, scents,variations and techniques for your soap and candle making projects.
(2) Plan out the fragrance or essential oil blends.
(3) Record any ideas, problems, or changes you make while you're making your soap and candle projects.
(4) And finally, your results. How did the project come out?In the months and years to come, your notebook will become stained with oils and wax, smeared with colorants, and will smell like a fragrance oil store...but it will contain very valuable information should you ever want to repeat a success or not repeat a "not-quite-a-success".
Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapglossary/g/soapcandlebook.htm
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Making Peppermint Soap (Cold Process Method)
Materials:
40 oz Olive oil
20 oz Palm Kernel oil
20 oz Pam oil
20 oz Coconut oil
5 oz Jojoba oil (added at trace)
4 oz Lavender EO (added at trace)
2 oz Peppermint EO (added at trace)
6 oz Alcanet diffused in 8 oz olive oil (added at trace)
34 oz filtered water
14.5 oz lanolin
Instructions:
Combined oils and lanolin at 100 degrees F. Mixed with stick blender. Poured into loaf mold and covered with plastic wrap. Wrapped in blankets for 24 hrs and then cut into thick strips of soap and wrap in cloth or plastic wrap. Store in a cool, dry location.
Source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/category/lip-balm/
40 oz Olive oil
20 oz Palm Kernel oil
20 oz Pam oil
20 oz Coconut oil
5 oz Jojoba oil (added at trace)
4 oz Lavender EO (added at trace)
2 oz Peppermint EO (added at trace)
6 oz Alcanet diffused in 8 oz olive oil (added at trace)
34 oz filtered water
14.5 oz lanolin
Instructions:
Combined oils and lanolin at 100 degrees F. Mixed with stick blender. Poured into loaf mold and covered with plastic wrap. Wrapped in blankets for 24 hrs and then cut into thick strips of soap and wrap in cloth or plastic wrap. Store in a cool, dry location.
Source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/category/lip-balm/
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Bath Melt Recipe from the Soap Kitchen
Bath melts are tiny solid cubes of oils that stay solid at room temperature, but gently melt into a warm bath, enriching the bath with moisturising oils and fragrance.
YOU'LL NEED.....
1) A saucepan
2) An ice cube tray or suitable small moulds
3) Kitchen scales
INGREDIENTS
Weights are not necessary in this recipe. Simply use the following proportions in the quantities you require.
2 parts cocoa butter
1 part sweet almond oil
Colour (either oil colours or powders such as ultramarines or lakes.) as required
Essential or Fragrance oil
HOW TO.....
Gently melt the cocoa butter over a low heat. Once just melted add the sweet almond oil and mix thoroughly. Remove from heat and leave to cool a little (not too much, it still should be liquid). Add colour and fragrance as required (the equivalent of a few drops of essential or fragrance oil per melt. Colour can be added a little at a time and stirred/whisked (hand whisk) to achieve enough depth. Remember, once set solid the background colour of the cocoa butter will be opaque off-white). If you are using ultramarines or oxides to colour, be sure the mixture is fairly cool before adding them, or they will not disperse and colour the mixture.
Once cooled but still completely liquid, pour into ice cube tray moulds and cool in the fridge or freezer. Don't actually freeze them, just ensure they are very cold and completely solid.
Press out of ice cube moulds as you would an ice cube and leave at room temperature.
There! You've made bath melts. Wasn't that easy!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/bath_melt_recipe.htm
YOU'LL NEED.....
1) A saucepan
2) An ice cube tray or suitable small moulds
3) Kitchen scales
INGREDIENTS
Weights are not necessary in this recipe. Simply use the following proportions in the quantities you require.
2 parts cocoa butter
1 part sweet almond oil
Colour (either oil colours or powders such as ultramarines or lakes.) as required
Essential or Fragrance oil
HOW TO.....
Gently melt the cocoa butter over a low heat. Once just melted add the sweet almond oil and mix thoroughly. Remove from heat and leave to cool a little (not too much, it still should be liquid). Add colour and fragrance as required (the equivalent of a few drops of essential or fragrance oil per melt. Colour can be added a little at a time and stirred/whisked (hand whisk) to achieve enough depth. Remember, once set solid the background colour of the cocoa butter will be opaque off-white). If you are using ultramarines or oxides to colour, be sure the mixture is fairly cool before adding them, or they will not disperse and colour the mixture.
Once cooled but still completely liquid, pour into ice cube tray moulds and cool in the fridge or freezer. Don't actually freeze them, just ensure they are very cold and completely solid.
Press out of ice cube moulds as you would an ice cube and leave at room temperature.
There! You've made bath melts. Wasn't that easy!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/bath_melt_recipe.htm
Friday, June 20, 2008
Cowboy Foot Scrub
Create a natural homemade foot scrub for the hard worker in your life.
From "Craft Lab"
Episode DCLB-143 (DIY Network)
Guest Sabrina Collins joins host Jennifer Perkins and demonstrates how to use powdered milk, cornmeal, vitamin E and lotion to create a foot scrub. She then bottles the scrub and puts it in a cowboy boot along with a pedicure kit as a great guy gift.
Materials:
7 oz. unscented lotion base
1 Tbs. powdered milk or soy milk
1 Tbs. blue cornmeal
1 Tbs. sea salt (fine ground)
2 Tbs. shea butter, melted
1 tsp. vegetable glycerin
1 tsp. Vitamin E
6-10 drops fragrance oil or essential oil
Cowboy boot
pedicure kit/nail brush
Cowboy Foot Scrub
Melt/liquefy shea butter in microwave (intervals of 10 seconds), and be careful not to overheat or burn the shea butter. Melt on the stove top (stay by the stove--you do not want the shea butter to burn or overheat, just warm enough to melt).
Cool slightly and add to lotion base stirring well.
After you have blended the shea butter and lotion base together pour just a little in a small bowl. Stir in the Sea salt and powdered milk. By doing this you will not have any lumps on the scrub. What you are looking for is a well-blended slightly gritty texture scrub.
Once you have stirred well, pour the remaining lotion base and the other ingredients and the other ingredients and stir well again. Funnel into a dispenser bottle.
Note: This recipe makes eight ounces.
A pair of boots can be purchased from a flea market, yard sale or second hand store. Just give the boot a good cleaning and shine. Replace the inside sole of the boot with a new one. Fill one boot with a nail brush, file, soap and foot scrub.
RESOURCES:
All Products Used on Show
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
Dispenser Bottles, Wooden Box, Embellishments
Michaels Arts and Crafts
Website: http://www.michaels.com/
Plate and Chopsticks
Pier 1 Imports
Website: http://www.pier1.com/
GUESTS:
Sabrina Collins
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_special_days_gifts/article/0,2025,DIY_13777_5122884,00.html
From "Craft Lab"
Episode DCLB-143 (DIY Network)
Guest Sabrina Collins joins host Jennifer Perkins and demonstrates how to use powdered milk, cornmeal, vitamin E and lotion to create a foot scrub. She then bottles the scrub and puts it in a cowboy boot along with a pedicure kit as a great guy gift.
Materials:
7 oz. unscented lotion base
1 Tbs. powdered milk or soy milk
1 Tbs. blue cornmeal
1 Tbs. sea salt (fine ground)
2 Tbs. shea butter, melted
1 tsp. vegetable glycerin
1 tsp. Vitamin E
6-10 drops fragrance oil or essential oil
Cowboy boot
pedicure kit/nail brush
Cowboy Foot Scrub
Melt/liquefy shea butter in microwave (intervals of 10 seconds), and be careful not to overheat or burn the shea butter. Melt on the stove top (stay by the stove--you do not want the shea butter to burn or overheat, just warm enough to melt).
Cool slightly and add to lotion base stirring well.
After you have blended the shea butter and lotion base together pour just a little in a small bowl. Stir in the Sea salt and powdered milk. By doing this you will not have any lumps on the scrub. What you are looking for is a well-blended slightly gritty texture scrub.
Once you have stirred well, pour the remaining lotion base and the other ingredients and the other ingredients and stir well again. Funnel into a dispenser bottle.
Note: This recipe makes eight ounces.
A pair of boots can be purchased from a flea market, yard sale or second hand store. Just give the boot a good cleaning and shine. Replace the inside sole of the boot with a new one. Fill one boot with a nail brush, file, soap and foot scrub.
RESOURCES:
All Products Used on Show
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
Dispenser Bottles, Wooden Box, Embellishments
Michaels Arts and Crafts
Website: http://www.michaels.com/
Plate and Chopsticks
Pier 1 Imports
Website: http://www.pier1.com/
GUESTS:
Sabrina Collins
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_special_days_gifts/article/0,2025,DIY_13777_5122884,00.html
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Raspberry/Vanilla Bubble Bath
Ingredients:
8 oz. unscented liquid soap
2 oz. distilled water
8 drops vanilla fragrance oil
6 drops raspberry fragrance oil
2 drops red food coloring (I prefer the soap colorant in the liquid format)
Directions:
Mix all and pour into a container.
Source: http://www.idea-queen.com/bubble-bath-recipes.html
8 oz. unscented liquid soap
2 oz. distilled water
8 drops vanilla fragrance oil
6 drops raspberry fragrance oil
2 drops red food coloring (I prefer the soap colorant in the liquid format)
Directions:
Mix all and pour into a container.
Source: http://www.idea-queen.com/bubble-bath-recipes.html
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Baby Powder
Submitted by: Unknown
Ingredients:
2 ounces cornstarch
2 ounces arrowroot powder
1 Tbsp kaolin clay
10 drops sweet orange essential oil
5 drops ylang-ylang essential oil
5 drops rose geranium essential oil
Directions
Sift cornstarch, arrowroot powder, and kaolin clay into bowl. Pour contents into a sealable plastic baggie. Add drops of essential oils. Mix well. Add into a shaker container.
Source: http://recipes.herbalsoapsbyrj.com/recipes/category.php?CID=50
Ingredients:
2 ounces cornstarch
2 ounces arrowroot powder
1 Tbsp kaolin clay
10 drops sweet orange essential oil
5 drops ylang-ylang essential oil
5 drops rose geranium essential oil
Directions
Sift cornstarch, arrowroot powder, and kaolin clay into bowl. Pour contents into a sealable plastic baggie. Add drops of essential oils. Mix well. Add into a shaker container.
Source: http://recipes.herbalsoapsbyrj.com/recipes/category.php?CID=50
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Hints Packaging Your Products
Marie Browning, author of Totally Cool Soapmaking for Kids, recommends the following for packaging your soaps and other bath/body products:
Wrapping Your Soap
* Wrap soaps with plastice wrap before packaging. This keeps your soaps fresh and the fragrance from dispersing. Plastic wrap also prevents soap from marring or dampening the decorative packaging.
* If glycerin soap is not wrapped, it will dry out and white crystals will form. These crystals are unsightly, but they are harmless and will not affect the performance of the soap.
* After the soap is removed from the mold, let the soap come to room temperature. Use a cling free plastic wrap and tightly wrap your soap, taping the ends neatly at the back with clear cellophane tape. I recommend covering the tape with a cute sticker or if your selling your soaps have a sticker with your business information on it.
Choosing Containers
* For safety sake, use plastic containers for bath products tht will be used in and around the bath and shower. Many craft stores and bathroom shops stock plastic containers. You also may want to check out kitchen supply stores for this type of container.
Labeling Your Products
* Label all fragrance-crafted products for indentification. For example, if you create a product that looks too good to eat, you will want to label it with a warning!
* Include instructions for use as needed.
* Laminated labels stay fresh-looking evenr in the high humidity of a steamy bathroom. A hand-crank laminating and adhesive application system is perfect for quicklyand easily applying and protecting your labels. Check out your local craft stores for a product by Xyron that will work in this situation. Clear packing tape can also be used to cover labels before gluing them on the containers. I personally have used shrink wrap bands for covering labels on lip balms.
Storage
* Store fragrance created products out of direct light in a cool dry place.
If you have any other suggestions, please share them with us. Thank you.
Wrapping Your Soap
* Wrap soaps with plastice wrap before packaging. This keeps your soaps fresh and the fragrance from dispersing. Plastic wrap also prevents soap from marring or dampening the decorative packaging.
* If glycerin soap is not wrapped, it will dry out and white crystals will form. These crystals are unsightly, but they are harmless and will not affect the performance of the soap.
* After the soap is removed from the mold, let the soap come to room temperature. Use a cling free plastic wrap and tightly wrap your soap, taping the ends neatly at the back with clear cellophane tape. I recommend covering the tape with a cute sticker or if your selling your soaps have a sticker with your business information on it.
Choosing Containers
* For safety sake, use plastic containers for bath products tht will be used in and around the bath and shower. Many craft stores and bathroom shops stock plastic containers. You also may want to check out kitchen supply stores for this type of container.
Labeling Your Products
* Label all fragrance-crafted products for indentification. For example, if you create a product that looks too good to eat, you will want to label it with a warning!
* Include instructions for use as needed.
* Laminated labels stay fresh-looking evenr in the high humidity of a steamy bathroom. A hand-crank laminating and adhesive application system is perfect for quicklyand easily applying and protecting your labels. Check out your local craft stores for a product by Xyron that will work in this situation. Clear packing tape can also be used to cover labels before gluing them on the containers. I personally have used shrink wrap bands for covering labels on lip balms.
Storage
* Store fragrance created products out of direct light in a cool dry place.
If you have any other suggestions, please share them with us. Thank you.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Pain-Stopping Spot Ointment
This blend uses an ingredient known as arnica concrete. This is an extract of the tarry oils from the arnica plant (it is available from Leydet Aromatics). Al uses this blend on old or new bruises, strains, arthritis, congestion and myofascial thickening. Use it like you would an analgesic cream. Keep it out of your eyes and away from mucus membranes. This stuff will warm up where it belongs and will burn where it doesn’t.
Ingredients:
Al's Favorite Base Oil
Arnica Concrete (see above paragraph)
Rubbing alcohol, Everclear or Vodka
Ginger
Cayenne
Geranium
Ylang Ylang
Black Pepper
Directions:
1. Dilute the arnica concrete in equal parts alcohol. You can use rubbing alcohol, vodka or Everclear.
2. Add 10 drops diluted arnica concrete to Al’s Favorite Base Oil.
3. Add the following essential oils to the arnica concrete/base oil blend: 5 drops black pepper, 10 drops ginger, 10 drops cayenne, 10 drops geranium, 10 drops ylang ylang.
4. Shake well.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilPain.php
Ingredients:
Al's Favorite Base Oil
Arnica Concrete (see above paragraph)
Rubbing alcohol, Everclear or Vodka
Ginger
Cayenne
Geranium
Ylang Ylang
Black Pepper
Directions:
1. Dilute the arnica concrete in equal parts alcohol. You can use rubbing alcohol, vodka or Everclear.
2. Add 10 drops diluted arnica concrete to Al’s Favorite Base Oil.
3. Add the following essential oils to the arnica concrete/base oil blend: 5 drops black pepper, 10 drops ginger, 10 drops cayenne, 10 drops geranium, 10 drops ylang ylang.
4. Shake well.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilPain.php
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Naturally Native Massage Oil
by Harvest McCampbell
Ingredients:
2/3 cup each of corn, sunflower and peanut oil
1/8 cup each of cleavers, willow bark or leaves, juniper berries and rose hips (all dry)
essential oils of sassafras, spruce, cedar and wintergreen
Supplies:
strainer
large funnel
2 20-ounce jars with air-tight lids
spoon
measuring cup
brown paper bag
Step 1 - Make the Oil
Measure herbs and base oils into one air-tight jar. Close the lid and place in a brown paper bag in a warm place. Shake two or three times a day, whenever you remember. If you shake it more often, you will get a better product in a shorter time, about three weeks. If you shake it less often, then you will want to give it a longer extraction time, as long as eight weeks.
Strain out the herbs and pour the mixture into the second jar. Add one drop of wintergreen oil and two drops each of sassafras, spruce and cedar (both sassafras and spruce stimulate the lymphatic system and are good for tissue congestion). Shake well to blend. Label the jar “Naturally Native Massage Oil.”
Your massage oil is now ready to use as is, or as one of the ingredients in the Naturally Native Massage Lotion.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilNative.php
Ingredients:
2/3 cup each of corn, sunflower and peanut oil
1/8 cup each of cleavers, willow bark or leaves, juniper berries and rose hips (all dry)
essential oils of sassafras, spruce, cedar and wintergreen
Supplies:
strainer
large funnel
2 20-ounce jars with air-tight lids
spoon
measuring cup
brown paper bag
Step 1 - Make the Oil
Measure herbs and base oils into one air-tight jar. Close the lid and place in a brown paper bag in a warm place. Shake two or three times a day, whenever you remember. If you shake it more often, you will get a better product in a shorter time, about three weeks. If you shake it less often, then you will want to give it a longer extraction time, as long as eight weeks.
Strain out the herbs and pour the mixture into the second jar. Add one drop of wintergreen oil and two drops each of sassafras, spruce and cedar (both sassafras and spruce stimulate the lymphatic system and are good for tissue congestion). Shake well to blend. Label the jar “Naturally Native Massage Oil.”
Your massage oil is now ready to use as is, or as one of the ingredients in the Naturally Native Massage Lotion.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilNative.php
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Age-Defying & Rejuvenating Face Creams
If you have taken a lotions class and are interested in taking a class on face creams, then here is a class for you!
On August 9, 2008 from 3 pm to 6 pm, Joan Morasis will be teaching a face creams class at The Nova Studio in Pt. Richmond.
If you are interested in learning how to make face creams, here is the link that directs you about what the class is about and how much it costs. It sounds like a whole lot of fun!
http://www.thenovastudio.com/description_joan_face_creams.htm
If you would like to learn more about The Nova Studio or see what other classes are currently being offer, please go to http://www.thenovastudio.com/.
On August 9, 2008 from 3 pm to 6 pm, Joan Morasis will be teaching a face creams class at The Nova Studio in Pt. Richmond.
If you are interested in learning how to make face creams, here is the link that directs you about what the class is about and how much it costs. It sounds like a whole lot of fun!
http://www.thenovastudio.com/description_joan_face_creams.htm
If you would like to learn more about The Nova Studio or see what other classes are currently being offer, please go to http://www.thenovastudio.com/.
Body Massage Sticks
Create the gift that keeps giving—body massage sticks.
From "Craft Lab"
Episode DCLB-143 (DIY Network)
Guest Sabrina Collins joins host Jennifer Perkins and shows you how to create massage sticks. She pours melted shea butter and beeswax into a wax paper mold to make the sticks. She then wraps the sticks in a corn husk with ribbon to present as a gift.
Project designed by Sabrina Collins.
Materials:
1 finished tissue tube
3 to 4 sheets wax paper
3 oz. of pure coco butter
3 oz. of pour shea butter
4 to 6 drops of essential oil or fragrance oils
4 Tbs. of beeswax
corn husk
ribbon
hot glue
embellishments (optional)
Body Massage Sticks
Line the inside tube with two sheets of wax paper, leaving about 1/2" of wax paper from the bottom.
Cut off some of the excess wax paper from the top (about 2"). Pinch together the bottom tube and wax paper close.
Fold over the wax paper to one side. With strong wide packing tape, secure the bottom of the tube a few times to minimize leakage (figure A).
Stand the tube up against the inside wall of a medium bowl. Use a few garden rocks to hold the tube in place.
Melt the butters and beeswax on low heat on the stove or microwave in intervals of 20to 30 seconds ensuring that the ingredients do not boil or burn. This mixture should be warm to touch.
Stir in the essential oils and mix well.
Pour the mixture inside the tube with a small funnel.
Place in the freezer for 25 to 30 minutes to solidify.
After the stick has hardened, gently peel away the tube and wax paper with your hands. As you are working you way to the end, use a pair of scissors to cut the bottom out carefully.
With the remaining piece to wax paper, roll the massage stick and tape the center. Wrap a corn husk around the finished stick and secure it with a 2" piece of ribbon in the center of the tube. Hot glue desired embellishments.
Make up a card with the ingredients on one side and a poem on the other.
RESOURCES:
All Products Used on Show
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
Dispenser Bottles, Wooden Box, Embellishments
Michaels Arts and Crafts
Website: http://www.michaels.com/
Plate and Chopsticks
Pier 1 Imports
Website: www.pier1.com
GUESTS:
Sabrina Collins
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_special_days_gifts/article/0,2025,DIY_13777_5122888,00.html
From "Craft Lab"
Episode DCLB-143 (DIY Network)
Guest Sabrina Collins joins host Jennifer Perkins and shows you how to create massage sticks. She pours melted shea butter and beeswax into a wax paper mold to make the sticks. She then wraps the sticks in a corn husk with ribbon to present as a gift.
Project designed by Sabrina Collins.
Materials:
1 finished tissue tube
3 to 4 sheets wax paper
3 oz. of pure coco butter
3 oz. of pour shea butter
4 to 6 drops of essential oil or fragrance oils
4 Tbs. of beeswax
corn husk
ribbon
hot glue
embellishments (optional)
Body Massage Sticks
Line the inside tube with two sheets of wax paper, leaving about 1/2" of wax paper from the bottom.
Cut off some of the excess wax paper from the top (about 2"). Pinch together the bottom tube and wax paper close.
Fold over the wax paper to one side. With strong wide packing tape, secure the bottom of the tube a few times to minimize leakage (figure A).
Stand the tube up against the inside wall of a medium bowl. Use a few garden rocks to hold the tube in place.
Melt the butters and beeswax on low heat on the stove or microwave in intervals of 20to 30 seconds ensuring that the ingredients do not boil or burn. This mixture should be warm to touch.
Stir in the essential oils and mix well.
Pour the mixture inside the tube with a small funnel.
Place in the freezer for 25 to 30 minutes to solidify.
After the stick has hardened, gently peel away the tube and wax paper with your hands. As you are working you way to the end, use a pair of scissors to cut the bottom out carefully.
With the remaining piece to wax paper, roll the massage stick and tape the center. Wrap a corn husk around the finished stick and secure it with a 2" piece of ribbon in the center of the tube. Hot glue desired embellishments.
Make up a card with the ingredients on one side and a poem on the other.
RESOURCES:
All Products Used on Show
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
Dispenser Bottles, Wooden Box, Embellishments
Michaels Arts and Crafts
Website: http://www.michaels.com/
Plate and Chopsticks
Pier 1 Imports
Website: www.pier1.com
GUESTS:
Sabrina Collins
Face Your Body Aromatherapy
Website: http://www.faceyourbody.com/
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_special_days_gifts/article/0,2025,DIY_13777_5122888,00.html
How to Make Aromatherapy Bath Oil
Enjoy to soak in the bath tub for long periods of time? Most of us probably do not have the time to do it often but when we do we appreciate more. So the next time you get a chance to soak in the tub, why not add an extra touch of an an aromatherapy bath oil.
Aromatherapy bath oil won't only moisturize and nourish the skin, but it will do wonders to ease stress. A warm aromatherapy bath is a great way to revitalize and calm jangled nerves after a tough day. Add a few drops to your bath water, and sit back and enjoy the delightful scents.
So does this intrique you to add this to your next bath? Then check out the recipe on How to Make Aromatherapy Bath Oil by a contributing writer for ehow. If you like the scent of fresh blossoms then you should try the second recipe in the article. The author gives you some good tips on how to make the recipe more special.
Aromatherapy bath oil won't only moisturize and nourish the skin, but it will do wonders to ease stress. A warm aromatherapy bath is a great way to revitalize and calm jangled nerves after a tough day. Add a few drops to your bath water, and sit back and enjoy the delightful scents.
So does this intrique you to add this to your next bath? Then check out the recipe on How to Make Aromatherapy Bath Oil by a contributing writer for ehow. If you like the scent of fresh blossoms then you should try the second recipe in the article. The author gives you some good tips on how to make the recipe more special.
Friday, June 13, 2008
Room Temperature Cold Process Soap Making
By Shelley Fluegge
When I first started researching soap making I found there were three ways of making soap. The easiest and least labor intense was melt and pour, this soap comes as a solid and is just heated up and becomes a liquid, you add in whatever you want to the soap, pour it in a mold and let it set up. Pretty simple but not what I was looking for.
The other two methods were the actual process of creating soap from oils, water and sodium hydroxide. Hot process did not appeal to me, I didn't think standing over a stove cooking soap sounded like an enjoyable time so I began to focus on cold process soapmaking. Cold process soapmaking does not require any external heat as the name suggests. I read instructions that detailed the oil had to be 110F and the lye had to be 100, but the next bit of information I found stated each had to be 100, or 95, or one had to be 95 and the other 100 and others stated ‘warm to the touch’ Im not about to touch hot lye water or oil to see if its cooled enough. It was making me crazy! But I settled on one and gave it a shot.
Then after many batches I read about room temperature soaping and gave it a try. I was very happy with the ease and efficiency I have while soaping at room temperature. This is my method: Measure several batches of oil at one time. I simpley line up all of my buckets and measure my oils out in assembly line fashion, cover and put away until its time to soap. Measure out two batches of my water-half in ice form and half in liquid form, add my 2 batches worth of lye and let cool. I place it in a cool locked room. Sometimes it sits overnight or for a few days. I prefer to leave it in an extra bathroom inside the bathtub just incase of a spill.
On the day I am going to soap I prepare my mold by lining it with freezer paper, measure out whatever I may be adding into my soap such as clays, dyes, essential or fragrance oils and grab one batch of oil. Since I use some hard oils in my recipe I take my stick blender to the oil mixture and make sure there are no solid pieces remaining and now its time to create soap by adding in the lye slowly and stirring until trace. Trace is the name for the stage where the soap looks like a thin custard, its ready to pour into the mold now unless you plan on scenting, layering, swirling or adding in exfoliants.
Once the soap is poured its time to put it to bed. I place mine in my oven, but many people prefer to put their soap in a box covered in blankets. The soap will become hot and go through another stage called gelling.You can cut your soap in a day or two but industry standard is 3 weeks of waiting before use or sale.
I chose room temperature cold process soap because of its efficiency. I dont have to wait for my oil or lye water to cool, I just grab and soap. Prior to this method I did the 100-110F method and it took a very long time from start to finish and each time I had a huge mess of oils all over and only one little batch of soap to show for it. Now I have one messy oily day and 6-8 batches of oil waiting to be soaped to show for it! My soaping sessions went from an hour or longer to no more than 20 minutes.
Shelley Fluegge is the owner of Bella Sapone a soap, bath and body business.
Source: http://www.italianhandmadesoap.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Shelley_Fluegge http://EzineArticles.com/?Room-Temperature-Cold-Processing-Soap-Making-Method&id=535441
When I first started researching soap making I found there were three ways of making soap. The easiest and least labor intense was melt and pour, this soap comes as a solid and is just heated up and becomes a liquid, you add in whatever you want to the soap, pour it in a mold and let it set up. Pretty simple but not what I was looking for.
The other two methods were the actual process of creating soap from oils, water and sodium hydroxide. Hot process did not appeal to me, I didn't think standing over a stove cooking soap sounded like an enjoyable time so I began to focus on cold process soapmaking. Cold process soapmaking does not require any external heat as the name suggests. I read instructions that detailed the oil had to be 110F and the lye had to be 100, but the next bit of information I found stated each had to be 100, or 95, or one had to be 95 and the other 100 and others stated ‘warm to the touch’ Im not about to touch hot lye water or oil to see if its cooled enough. It was making me crazy! But I settled on one and gave it a shot.
Then after many batches I read about room temperature soaping and gave it a try. I was very happy with the ease and efficiency I have while soaping at room temperature. This is my method: Measure several batches of oil at one time. I simpley line up all of my buckets and measure my oils out in assembly line fashion, cover and put away until its time to soap. Measure out two batches of my water-half in ice form and half in liquid form, add my 2 batches worth of lye and let cool. I place it in a cool locked room. Sometimes it sits overnight or for a few days. I prefer to leave it in an extra bathroom inside the bathtub just incase of a spill.
On the day I am going to soap I prepare my mold by lining it with freezer paper, measure out whatever I may be adding into my soap such as clays, dyes, essential or fragrance oils and grab one batch of oil. Since I use some hard oils in my recipe I take my stick blender to the oil mixture and make sure there are no solid pieces remaining and now its time to create soap by adding in the lye slowly and stirring until trace. Trace is the name for the stage where the soap looks like a thin custard, its ready to pour into the mold now unless you plan on scenting, layering, swirling or adding in exfoliants.
Once the soap is poured its time to put it to bed. I place mine in my oven, but many people prefer to put their soap in a box covered in blankets. The soap will become hot and go through another stage called gelling.You can cut your soap in a day or two but industry standard is 3 weeks of waiting before use or sale.
I chose room temperature cold process soap because of its efficiency. I dont have to wait for my oil or lye water to cool, I just grab and soap. Prior to this method I did the 100-110F method and it took a very long time from start to finish and each time I had a huge mess of oils all over and only one little batch of soap to show for it. Now I have one messy oily day and 6-8 batches of oil waiting to be soaped to show for it! My soaping sessions went from an hour or longer to no more than 20 minutes.
Shelley Fluegge is the owner of Bella Sapone a soap, bath and body business.
Source: http://www.italianhandmadesoap.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Shelley_Fluegge http://EzineArticles.com/?Room-Temperature-Cold-Processing-Soap-Making-Method&id=535441
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Stearic Acid (Palm Stearic Flakes)
Specifications:
Botanical Name- Palm derived
Origin- USA
Extraction- Hydrolysis
Shelf life- Indefinite/5+ years
Color- White
Odor- Waxy
Acid Value- 208.7
Peroxide Value- <0.9>Non-Saponifiable
Saponification Value- 209
Iodine Value- 0.17
Melting Point- 150 degrees
Specific Notes- Stores well under most conditions, with an indefinite shelf life. Stearic acid is successfully used to thicken creams and lotions at about 2-5%.
Summary
Our Stearic Acid is 100% Palm derived, with no added chemicals, emulsifiers or other agents and is presented in the form of convenient 1/8 - 1/4 inch flakes.
Popularly used to emulsify, thicken, bind, and stabilize lotions and creams, Stearic Acid has become the number one choice for most body care manufacturers.
Stearic Acid occurs naturally in vegetable and animal fats, but has to go through a Hydrogenation process to convert it to the end product which is currently bought and sold as the Stearic Acid we have all come to know.
Hydrogenation typically refers to processes through which liquid vegetable oils are converted to solid or semi-solid fats, such as margarine. It refers to a chemical reaction in which "unsaturated" bonds between carbon atoms are "reduced" by attachment of a hydrogen atom to each carbon. The process thus results in the "saturation" of the atoms and, when carried to completion, converts unsaturated fatty acids to saturated ones. The end result is a white, waxy, natural fatty acid.
It is fairly insoluble in water but can become somewhat soluble in alcohol.
Source: http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/steric.html
Botanical Name- Palm derived
Origin- USA
Extraction- Hydrolysis
Shelf life- Indefinite/5+ years
Color- White
Odor- Waxy
Acid Value- 208.7
Peroxide Value- <0.9>Non-Saponifiable
Saponification Value- 209
Iodine Value- 0.17
Melting Point- 150 degrees
Specific Notes- Stores well under most conditions, with an indefinite shelf life. Stearic acid is successfully used to thicken creams and lotions at about 2-5%.
Summary
Our Stearic Acid is 100% Palm derived, with no added chemicals, emulsifiers or other agents and is presented in the form of convenient 1/8 - 1/4 inch flakes.
Popularly used to emulsify, thicken, bind, and stabilize lotions and creams, Stearic Acid has become the number one choice for most body care manufacturers.
Stearic Acid occurs naturally in vegetable and animal fats, but has to go through a Hydrogenation process to convert it to the end product which is currently bought and sold as the Stearic Acid we have all come to know.
Hydrogenation typically refers to processes through which liquid vegetable oils are converted to solid or semi-solid fats, such as margarine. It refers to a chemical reaction in which "unsaturated" bonds between carbon atoms are "reduced" by attachment of a hydrogen atom to each carbon. The process thus results in the "saturation" of the atoms and, when carried to completion, converts unsaturated fatty acids to saturated ones. The end result is a white, waxy, natural fatty acid.
It is fairly insoluble in water but can become somewhat soluble in alcohol.
Source: http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/steric.html
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
How to Soap Gel for Hand Soap
Buying individual plastic bottles of hand soap can be expensive and it creates more unneeded trash. Why not recycle the plastic soap dispensers and put in your own handmade soap? According to Eliza Yetter of ehow, you can make your own soaps if you buy unscented melt and pour soap base that you find in the craft stores. If you want you can scent your gel with your favorite fragrance or essential oil. What is great about this recipe is that is so simple that you can change the scent each time you make a new batch.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2159439_soap-gel-hand-soap.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_2159439_soap-gel-hand-soap.html
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Aromatherapy: It Makes Scents!
by Candace Welsh
"Smell and touch are noted to be our most primitive senses. They are powerful healers when used together with pur integrity." - Michelangelo
By itself, aromatherapy is a powerful healing tool. When aromatherapy is combined with bodywork, a healing synergy is created, and the effects of both therapies are elevated. Aromatherapy can enhance a healing session on the physical, mental and emotional levels. Through aromatherapy, you have the opportunity to take your sessions to a new level of healing.
Ancient wisdom
Aromatherapy refers to the therapeutic use of pure essential oils. Today this ancient medicinal art is being rediscovered, thanks to a societal craving for the soulful elements of life.
Essential oils have been used in religious and spiritual practices for thousands of years, to anoint, purify and protect. Anthropologists have determined that aromatherapy, in the form of primitive perfumery, has existed in some form as far back as 7000 BC, when fragrant plants were combined with natural oils to create ointments. The Egyptians, for example, used plant resins and gums for ceremonial as well as medicinal purposes, as far back as 3000 BC.
The use of plants for healing fell out of favor as the Western model of medicine advanced through the 18th and 19th centuries. It wasn’t until 1928 that the word “aromatherapy” was coined, by French chemist Rene Maurice Gattefosse. One day in his lab, Gattefosse badly burned his hand. He applied lavender oil to the burn and found that this caused his wound to heal quickly and without pain, blistering or scarring. Gattefosse went on to research the healing effects of other oils. Thus was born modern-day aromatherapy.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue93/arom.php
"Smell and touch are noted to be our most primitive senses. They are powerful healers when used together with pur integrity." - Michelangelo
By itself, aromatherapy is a powerful healing tool. When aromatherapy is combined with bodywork, a healing synergy is created, and the effects of both therapies are elevated. Aromatherapy can enhance a healing session on the physical, mental and emotional levels. Through aromatherapy, you have the opportunity to take your sessions to a new level of healing.
Ancient wisdom
Aromatherapy refers to the therapeutic use of pure essential oils. Today this ancient medicinal art is being rediscovered, thanks to a societal craving for the soulful elements of life.
Essential oils have been used in religious and spiritual practices for thousands of years, to anoint, purify and protect. Anthropologists have determined that aromatherapy, in the form of primitive perfumery, has existed in some form as far back as 7000 BC, when fragrant plants were combined with natural oils to create ointments. The Egyptians, for example, used plant resins and gums for ceremonial as well as medicinal purposes, as far back as 3000 BC.
The use of plants for healing fell out of favor as the Western model of medicine advanced through the 18th and 19th centuries. It wasn’t until 1928 that the word “aromatherapy” was coined, by French chemist Rene Maurice Gattefosse. One day in his lab, Gattefosse badly burned his hand. He applied lavender oil to the burn and found that this caused his wound to heal quickly and without pain, blistering or scarring. Gattefosse went on to research the healing effects of other oils. Thus was born modern-day aromatherapy.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue93/arom.php
Monday, June 9, 2008
Bath Mush Recipe from Aroma Thyme
Ingredients:
1/4 cup aloe gel (the pure kind from the health food store)
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup sea or rock salt
1/4 cup heavy cream or powdered milk
2 t. jojoba oil (optional)
5 drops essential oil
Directions:
Sounds like a gooey mess, doesn't it? But it works wonders on your skin. It leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. This is a blend made right before the bath. I guess it could be stored in the refrigerator for abut a week, but that sounds a little yucky to me. All measurements are approximate since I usually just "eyeball" it. You have to stir it well when you pour it into the bath water to make it disperse, but it's worth it.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.aromathyme.com/recipes.html
1/4 cup aloe gel (the pure kind from the health food store)
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup sea or rock salt
1/4 cup heavy cream or powdered milk
2 t. jojoba oil (optional)
5 drops essential oil
Directions:
Sounds like a gooey mess, doesn't it? But it works wonders on your skin. It leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. This is a blend made right before the bath. I guess it could be stored in the refrigerator for abut a week, but that sounds a little yucky to me. All measurements are approximate since I usually just "eyeball" it. You have to stir it well when you pour it into the bath water to make it disperse, but it's worth it.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.aromathyme.com/recipes.html
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Making Peppermint Scented Candles
Materials:
1/2 teaspoon peppermint essential oil
Wicks
Wick holder
1/2 pound beeswax
1/2 pound soy wax
Small paintbrush
Instructions:
1. In a double boiler, heat beeswax and soy wax until melted, about 180 degrees. Check temperature with a candy thermometer. Turn off the heat and add peppermint oil.
2. Cut 3 inches of wick; tie a knot at one end. Thread the loose end through a wick holder, and pull so the knot is secure under the holder.
3. Dip the wick and holder with wax until coated; this will stiffen and straighten the wick. Press the wick holder into the bottom of your candle holder to affix. Let the wick dry.
4. Pour the wax into the candle, and fill to the edge. Let the candle dry for about 4 hours.
Source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/category/lip-balm/
1/2 teaspoon peppermint essential oil
Wicks
Wick holder
1/2 pound beeswax
1/2 pound soy wax
Small paintbrush
Instructions:
1. In a double boiler, heat beeswax and soy wax until melted, about 180 degrees. Check temperature with a candy thermometer. Turn off the heat and add peppermint oil.
2. Cut 3 inches of wick; tie a knot at one end. Thread the loose end through a wick holder, and pull so the knot is secure under the holder.
3. Dip the wick and holder with wax until coated; this will stiffen and straighten the wick. Press the wick holder into the bottom of your candle holder to affix. Let the wick dry.
4. Pour the wax into the candle, and fill to the edge. Let the candle dry for about 4 hours.
Source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/category/lip-balm/
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Embossed Soap
On a segment of Craft Lab (episode #DCLB-115), a demonstration of embossed soap was featured:
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_natural_homemade/article/0,2025,DIY_13767_5181038,00.html
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_natural_homemade/article/0,2025,DIY_13767_5181038,00.html
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Vanilla Room Spray
This is a wonderful method of creating an affordable, sensuous vanilla room spray. This recipe calls for making your own vanilla extract. You can use your homemade extract in food recipes as well!
Materials:
Vanilla Extract (or Vanilla Essential Oil)
8 oz. clean, dark glass bottle and cap
7-8 ounces of vodka (inexpensive varieties do work well)
2-3 fresh, high-quality 6" vanilla beans. They should be dark, and the bean should have consistent coloring on the entire bean.
Muslin (available at fabric stores) for straining
Vanilla Extract Directions: Carefully cut the vanilla beans lengthwise. Then, cut them into small pieces, about 1/4" - 1/2" in length (about 2 cm). Put all the vanilla pieces into the bottle. Then pour the vodka into the bottle leaving enough room to shake the bottle well. Cap well. Allow the extract to sit in a dark area for 30 days, shaking the mixture daily. After 30 days, carefully strain the extract through the muslin fabric to remove all vanilla bean pieces and particles. You may need to strain the extract several times. Rebottle into a clean bottle.
Vanilla Room Spray
4 oz. clean spray bottle with a fine mist setting (do not use a bottle that previously contained cleaning products or hair products such as hair spray).
1.5 ounces of distilled water
1.5 ounces of vanilla extract
Up to 10 drops of your favorite essential oils if you would like to add to the vanilla aroma.
Be sure and take heed in the safety data for the oil(s) you choose to use since an air freshener, by its nature, will come in contact with all those in your household.
Directions: Fill the spray bottle with 1.5 ounces of vanilla extract and 1.5 ounces of distilled water. (Even though a 4 oz. bottle is suggested, leave about 1 oz. unfilled so you can shake the bottle well between uses.) Then, add up to 10 drops of your essential oils if desired. Shake the bottle prior to each use, and let it sit for about a day before making a conclusion that the aroma is too weak; the aroma can change after the air freshener has had time to sit. Mist lightly in the room. Be especially careful not to allow the air freshener mist fall onto furniture or into open beverages.
Source: http://www.aromaweb.com/recipes/vanilla.asp
Materials:
Vanilla Extract (or Vanilla Essential Oil)
8 oz. clean, dark glass bottle and cap
7-8 ounces of vodka (inexpensive varieties do work well)
2-3 fresh, high-quality 6" vanilla beans. They should be dark, and the bean should have consistent coloring on the entire bean.
Muslin (available at fabric stores) for straining
Vanilla Extract Directions: Carefully cut the vanilla beans lengthwise. Then, cut them into small pieces, about 1/4" - 1/2" in length (about 2 cm). Put all the vanilla pieces into the bottle. Then pour the vodka into the bottle leaving enough room to shake the bottle well. Cap well. Allow the extract to sit in a dark area for 30 days, shaking the mixture daily. After 30 days, carefully strain the extract through the muslin fabric to remove all vanilla bean pieces and particles. You may need to strain the extract several times. Rebottle into a clean bottle.
Vanilla Room Spray
4 oz. clean spray bottle with a fine mist setting (do not use a bottle that previously contained cleaning products or hair products such as hair spray).
1.5 ounces of distilled water
1.5 ounces of vanilla extract
Up to 10 drops of your favorite essential oils if you would like to add to the vanilla aroma.
Be sure and take heed in the safety data for the oil(s) you choose to use since an air freshener, by its nature, will come in contact with all those in your household.
Directions: Fill the spray bottle with 1.5 ounces of vanilla extract and 1.5 ounces of distilled water. (Even though a 4 oz. bottle is suggested, leave about 1 oz. unfilled so you can shake the bottle well between uses.) Then, add up to 10 drops of your essential oils if desired. Shake the bottle prior to each use, and let it sit for about a day before making a conclusion that the aroma is too weak; the aroma can change after the air freshener has had time to sit. Mist lightly in the room. Be especially careful not to allow the air freshener mist fall onto furniture or into open beverages.
Source: http://www.aromaweb.com/recipes/vanilla.asp
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Baby Body Balm Recipe
Materials:
300 g olive oil infused with 1 cup calendula petals
55 g sweet almond oil
40 g jojoba
20 g shea butter
85 g beeswax
435 g water
15 g glycerin
5 g grapefruit seed extract
Instructions:
Heat oils, shea butter and beeswax to 175 degrees. In separate container heat water and glycerin to 175 and then add GSE. Combine and mix until emulsified, about 30 minutes!
Source: http://www.freebies4ya.com/beautyrecipes/forbabies2.asp#babybodybalm
300 g olive oil infused with 1 cup calendula petals
55 g sweet almond oil
40 g jojoba
20 g shea butter
85 g beeswax
435 g water
15 g glycerin
5 g grapefruit seed extract
Instructions:
Heat oils, shea butter and beeswax to 175 degrees. In separate container heat water and glycerin to 175 and then add GSE. Combine and mix until emulsified, about 30 minutes!
Source: http://www.freebies4ya.com/beautyrecipes/forbabies2.asp#babybodybalm
Student Evaluations from Soap Making Class
I want to thank the students who participated in the student evaluations for my soap making class at the Sunnyvale Cupertino Adult Education Center on 4/12/08. And I want to take this opportunity to respond to some of the requests for classes.
For those who requested candle making class, I would recommend checking out The Nova Studio (http://www.thenovastudio.com)in/ in Point Richmond. Lori's Eco-Friendly Candle Making Class was last offered on May 17, 2008. And it does not look like it is offerred over the summer. If you would like to check out the description of the class please click this link http://thenovastudio.com/descriptioncandles.htm. If you would like to request this class to be offerred in the future, please email Lori at email@thenovastudio.com or click on the request in the class description (link above). On September 9th, The Nova Studio has an Aromomatherapy Soy Candles class from 6:30-9:30pm. If Point Richmond is too far for you to travel, you may want to consider Opalz Zoaps (http://www.opalzoap.com/) in Palo Alto. Annie is looking for classes to teach. So if you are interested, contact Annie at annie@opalzoap.com. If you can travel to Fairfield, CA., Joan Morasis will be teaching a 3 day workshop October 25-26, 2006 on Natural Skin Care Products. But, she added a 4th day on October 27th a Soap and Candlemaking workshop for $195. If you are interested and want more information, go to http://www.joanmorais.com/classes/3DayWorkshop.html.
For those who requested a higher level of soap making and are interested in learning the Cold Process or Hot Process Method, I currently do not teach those methods because it is difficult to teach those outside of a studio environment. But I can recommend, The Nova Studio (http://www.thenovastudio.com/) in Point Richmond which has a Cold Process and Hot Process Method offerred on August 23rd. If you are interested in the Hot Process Method at The Nova Studio, there is prereq of taking a Cold Process Class. Another suggestion is in the Fairfield/Napa area. If that works for you, Joan Morasis teaches classes on this subject. And if you are interested, go to Joan's website at http://www.joanmorais.com/ or to contact Joan email her at info@joanmorais.com. Annie at Opalz Zoaps (http://www.opalzoap.com/) in Palo Alto is the nearest location that teaches the Cold Process Soapmaking Method. If you are interested in taking a class from her then contact her by email.
If Melt and Pour Soap Making is your thing, Annie at Opalz Zoaps (http://www.opalzoap.com/) has offered classes in the past in soap loaves and more. If you are interested, please contact Annie.
As for a bath salts class, I do have a class scheduled on October 25, 2008 through the College of San Mateo's Community Education (http://www.collegeofsanmateo.edu/). Look here for an annoucement when to register for that class. Or I will be offerring the class sometime in Quarter 2 through the Sunnyvale Cupertino AEC (http://ace.fuhsd.org/).
If those do not work for you, I would recommend checking out You Tube (http://www.youtube.com/). I found some instructional clips on soap making and candlemaking.
For those who requested candle making class, I would recommend checking out The Nova Studio (http://www.thenovastudio.com)in/ in Point Richmond. Lori's Eco-Friendly Candle Making Class was last offered on May 17, 2008. And it does not look like it is offerred over the summer. If you would like to check out the description of the class please click this link http://thenovastudio.com/descriptioncandles.htm. If you would like to request this class to be offerred in the future, please email Lori at email@thenovastudio.com or click on the request in the class description (link above). On September 9th, The Nova Studio has an Aromomatherapy Soy Candles class from 6:30-9:30pm. If Point Richmond is too far for you to travel, you may want to consider Opalz Zoaps (http://www.opalzoap.com/) in Palo Alto. Annie is looking for classes to teach. So if you are interested, contact Annie at annie@opalzoap.com. If you can travel to Fairfield, CA., Joan Morasis will be teaching a 3 day workshop October 25-26, 2006 on Natural Skin Care Products. But, she added a 4th day on October 27th a Soap and Candlemaking workshop for $195. If you are interested and want more information, go to http://www.joanmorais.com/classes/3DayWorkshop.html.
For those who requested a higher level of soap making and are interested in learning the Cold Process or Hot Process Method, I currently do not teach those methods because it is difficult to teach those outside of a studio environment. But I can recommend, The Nova Studio (http://www.thenovastudio.com/) in Point Richmond which has a Cold Process and Hot Process Method offerred on August 23rd. If you are interested in the Hot Process Method at The Nova Studio, there is prereq of taking a Cold Process Class. Another suggestion is in the Fairfield/Napa area. If that works for you, Joan Morasis teaches classes on this subject. And if you are interested, go to Joan's website at http://www.joanmorais.com/ or to contact Joan email her at info@joanmorais.com. Annie at Opalz Zoaps (http://www.opalzoap.com/) in Palo Alto is the nearest location that teaches the Cold Process Soapmaking Method. If you are interested in taking a class from her then contact her by email.
If Melt and Pour Soap Making is your thing, Annie at Opalz Zoaps (http://www.opalzoap.com/) has offered classes in the past in soap loaves and more. If you are interested, please contact Annie.
As for a bath salts class, I do have a class scheduled on October 25, 2008 through the College of San Mateo's Community Education (http://www.collegeofsanmateo.edu/). Look here for an annoucement when to register for that class. Or I will be offerring the class sometime in Quarter 2 through the Sunnyvale Cupertino AEC (http://ace.fuhsd.org/).
If those do not work for you, I would recommend checking out You Tube (http://www.youtube.com/). I found some instructional clips on soap making and candlemaking.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Simple Lavender Spray Recipe
Using natural lavender scent, this delicately scented pillow spray will make you naturally feel a little tired. Or...just use it as an air freshener.
Ingredients:
1 cup distilled water
8 - 10 drops essential oil of lavender
spray bottle, with a fine mist setting
label
Directions:
Pour the cup of distilled water into the spray bottle. Add the drops of essential oil and shake very well. Cap the bottle, and allow to sit for a few hours before using. Shake the bottle before each use to evenly distribute the scented oil throughout the water. Use the label to describe what sort of product is contained in the bottle. And be sure to use the fine mist setting on your bottle, so the spray will be nicely distributed.
To use: About ten to twenty minutes before going to bed, spray your pillows (and your linens, if you like) with the spray. Let the scent mellow slightly by allowing the ten to twenty minutes to pass before lying down. When you do lie down, the pillows will smell wonderful! But an even greater benefit is that lavender is a natural relaxant, so this wonderful spray may actually help you fall asleep easier, and sleep better.
Source: http://www.happyslob.com/lavenderspray.html
Ingredients:
1 cup distilled water
8 - 10 drops essential oil of lavender
spray bottle, with a fine mist setting
label
Directions:
Pour the cup of distilled water into the spray bottle. Add the drops of essential oil and shake very well. Cap the bottle, and allow to sit for a few hours before using. Shake the bottle before each use to evenly distribute the scented oil throughout the water. Use the label to describe what sort of product is contained in the bottle. And be sure to use the fine mist setting on your bottle, so the spray will be nicely distributed.
To use: About ten to twenty minutes before going to bed, spray your pillows (and your linens, if you like) with the spray. Let the scent mellow slightly by allowing the ten to twenty minutes to pass before lying down. When you do lie down, the pillows will smell wonderful! But an even greater benefit is that lavender is a natural relaxant, so this wonderful spray may actually help you fall asleep easier, and sleep better.
Source: http://www.happyslob.com/lavenderspray.html
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Field Landing Soap Factory Face Wash
Now you can create your own face soaps. Our vegetable based "Liquid Soap" will leave your skin and hair clean and soft with no soap film. Blend in our Fields Landing Fragrance Oils and Liquid Colorants to achieve the look and scent you desire. The following recipes are just a sampling of the many projects you can create with our Liquid Soap (clear unscented base).
Nourishing Rose Face wash
A little honey helps to soothe and soften your skin while the Rose Water adds moisturizing qualities. This wash is good for all skin types and gentle to use every day. Makes 1-¾ cups.
Materials Needed:
Liquid Soap: 1 cup
Fragrance Oil: 10 drops Victorian Rose and 5 drops Honey
Liquid Colorant: 4 drops Orange, two drops Red and one drop Blue.
½ cup Rose Water
¼ cup liquid Honey
Instructions:
Mix ¼ cup of the Liquid Soap gently with the Rose and Honey fragrance oils. Add the liquid colorants to make a rosy amber hue. This step must be done before adding the additives.
Gently mix in Rose Water and Honey.
Place the mixture in the microwave (or heat on stove) and heat on high for 10 seconds. Repeat until mixture has become warm and trapped air begins to slowly rise.
Avoid boiling mixture, which can create more bubbles. Let mixture cool.
Use a spoon and skim off surface foam. Gently stir in the remaining Liquid Soap. 6.
Pour into your decorative, labeled bottle and seal.
Wake-up Face Wash
This refreshing scented face wash is excellent for oily and normal skin types. Makes 1-½ cups.
Materials Needed:
Liquid Soap: 1 cup
Fragrance Oil: 10 drops Papaya Plum and 6 drops Lime.
Liquid colorant: 5 drops Yellow
½ cup Witch Hazel
Instructions:
Gently mix the fragrance oils and liquid colorants into ¼ cup of Liquid Soap. This step must be done before adding the additives.
Gently mix in the Witch Hazel.
Place the mixture in the microwave (or heat on stove) and heat on high for 10 seconds. Repeat until mixture has become warm and trapped air begins to slowly rise.
Avoid boiling mixture, which can create more bubbles. Let mixture cool.
Use a spoon and skim off surface foam.
Gently stir in the remaining Liquid Soap.
Pour into your decorative, labeled bottle and seal.
Source: http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/Soap/LSRecipe.htm
Nourishing Rose Face wash
A little honey helps to soothe and soften your skin while the Rose Water adds moisturizing qualities. This wash is good for all skin types and gentle to use every day. Makes 1-¾ cups.
Materials Needed:
Liquid Soap: 1 cup
Fragrance Oil: 10 drops Victorian Rose and 5 drops Honey
Liquid Colorant: 4 drops Orange, two drops Red and one drop Blue.
½ cup Rose Water
¼ cup liquid Honey
Instructions:
Mix ¼ cup of the Liquid Soap gently with the Rose and Honey fragrance oils. Add the liquid colorants to make a rosy amber hue. This step must be done before adding the additives.
Gently mix in Rose Water and Honey.
Place the mixture in the microwave (or heat on stove) and heat on high for 10 seconds. Repeat until mixture has become warm and trapped air begins to slowly rise.
Avoid boiling mixture, which can create more bubbles. Let mixture cool.
Use a spoon and skim off surface foam. Gently stir in the remaining Liquid Soap. 6.
Pour into your decorative, labeled bottle and seal.
Wake-up Face Wash
This refreshing scented face wash is excellent for oily and normal skin types. Makes 1-½ cups.
Materials Needed:
Liquid Soap: 1 cup
Fragrance Oil: 10 drops Papaya Plum and 6 drops Lime.
Liquid colorant: 5 drops Yellow
½ cup Witch Hazel
Instructions:
Gently mix the fragrance oils and liquid colorants into ¼ cup of Liquid Soap. This step must be done before adding the additives.
Gently mix in the Witch Hazel.
Place the mixture in the microwave (or heat on stove) and heat on high for 10 seconds. Repeat until mixture has become warm and trapped air begins to slowly rise.
Avoid boiling mixture, which can create more bubbles. Let mixture cool.
Use a spoon and skim off surface foam.
Gently stir in the remaining Liquid Soap.
Pour into your decorative, labeled bottle and seal.
Source: http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/Soap/LSRecipe.htm
Monday, June 2, 2008
Spicy Soothing Massage Oil
by Harvest McCampbell
Ingredients:
16-ounces of Al's Favorite Base Oil
Bay
Clove Bud
Lemon
Lavender
Directions:
1. Make a batch (16 ounces) of Al’s Favorite Base Oil.
2. Add the following essential oils to the base oil: 10 drops bay, 10 drops clove bud, 15 drops lemon, 5 drops lavender.
3. Shake well.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilSpicy.php
Ingredients:
16-ounces of Al's Favorite Base Oil
Bay
Clove Bud
Lemon
Lavender
Directions:
1. Make a batch (16 ounces) of Al’s Favorite Base Oil.
2. Add the following essential oils to the base oil: 10 drops bay, 10 drops clove bud, 15 drops lemon, 5 drops lavender.
3. Shake well.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilSpicy.php
Sunday, June 1, 2008
How To Superfat Your Home Made Soap Recipes
From David Fisher,
Superfatting is a commonly used but much misunderstood soapmaking technique. Most lye calculators will figure this for you automatically, but here's an explanation of just why you should do it.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: None-Just an adjustment to your recipe
Here's How:
(1) Superfatting (sometimes referred to as a lye discount) is either adding an extra amount of oil into your soap recipe but keeping the lye amount the same, or using the same amount of oil and less lye. For example, using 9.5ounces of lye instead of 10 ounces would amount to 5% superfatting. (5% extra oil). (5% superfatting is actually a fairly standard percentage amongst most soap makers. It's what I generally use...)
(2) There are two reasons to do this:A small amount of extra "free" oil in the soap adds extra moisturizing qualities to the soap. You will hear this sometimes referred to as "emollient" qualities. Basically, it makes the soap more moisturizing.
(3) It also gives you a bit of a "fudge factor". Having extra lye in your soap is a big problem...much bigger than having extra oil. Additionally, many oils will vary slightly in their their true SAP (Saponification value). Superfatting builds in some safety if your scale is not completely precise. Having a little extra oil in the recipe assures that every one of the lye molecules will have more than enough opportunity to pair up with an oil molecule.
(4) The thing you need to watch out for with superfatting is that while soap doesn't spoil quickly, oil does. The more "free" oil you have in your soap, the more likely you are to have spoilage, or what is often called DOS or Dreaded Orange Spots, which are small orange spots where a pocket of free oil has gone bad.
(5) Superfatting your soap is easy...indeed, most lye calculators will calculate it for you. If not, you can just figure your lye, and then 'discount' it by your percentage. For example, if your recipe calls for 10 ounces of lye and you want a 5% discount, multiply that by .95 (95%). That would give you 9.5 ounces of lye. Make the soap as you otherwise would.
(6) Once you have a recipe you like, you may also want to experiment with a higher or lower superfat percentage. Try a batch at 3% and try a batch at 10%.
Tips:
* Some soapmakers, like Susan Miller Cavitch in The Soap Maker's Companion suggest upwards of 10-15% superfatting! I think this is way too much! Soap with this much extra oil, while moisturizing, is very prone to spoilage.
*Some people and/or recipes will suggest holding out your most luxurious oils or butters to add in at trace as the "superfat" oils. I've never seen any concrete tests or data on this - but I don't think it's worth the trouble.
What You Need:
A Soap Recipe
A Lye Calculator
More How To's from your Guide To Candle & Soap Making
Superfatting is a commonly used but much misunderstood soapmaking technique. Most lye calculators will figure this for you automatically, but here's an explanation of just why you should do it.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: None-Just an adjustment to your recipe
Here's How:
(1) Superfatting (sometimes referred to as a lye discount) is either adding an extra amount of oil into your soap recipe but keeping the lye amount the same, or using the same amount of oil and less lye. For example, using 9.5ounces of lye instead of 10 ounces would amount to 5% superfatting. (5% extra oil). (5% superfatting is actually a fairly standard percentage amongst most soap makers. It's what I generally use...)
(2) There are two reasons to do this:A small amount of extra "free" oil in the soap adds extra moisturizing qualities to the soap. You will hear this sometimes referred to as "emollient" qualities. Basically, it makes the soap more moisturizing.
(3) It also gives you a bit of a "fudge factor". Having extra lye in your soap is a big problem...much bigger than having extra oil. Additionally, many oils will vary slightly in their their true SAP (Saponification value). Superfatting builds in some safety if your scale is not completely precise. Having a little extra oil in the recipe assures that every one of the lye molecules will have more than enough opportunity to pair up with an oil molecule.
(4) The thing you need to watch out for with superfatting is that while soap doesn't spoil quickly, oil does. The more "free" oil you have in your soap, the more likely you are to have spoilage, or what is often called DOS or Dreaded Orange Spots, which are small orange spots where a pocket of free oil has gone bad.
(5) Superfatting your soap is easy...indeed, most lye calculators will calculate it for you. If not, you can just figure your lye, and then 'discount' it by your percentage. For example, if your recipe calls for 10 ounces of lye and you want a 5% discount, multiply that by .95 (95%). That would give you 9.5 ounces of lye. Make the soap as you otherwise would.
(6) Once you have a recipe you like, you may also want to experiment with a higher or lower superfat percentage. Try a batch at 3% and try a batch at 10%.
Tips:
* Some soapmakers, like Susan Miller Cavitch in The Soap Maker's Companion suggest upwards of 10-15% superfatting! I think this is way too much! Soap with this much extra oil, while moisturizing, is very prone to spoilage.
*Some people and/or recipes will suggest holding out your most luxurious oils or butters to add in at trace as the "superfat" oils. I've never seen any concrete tests or data on this - but I don't think it's worth the trouble.
What You Need:
A Soap Recipe
A Lye Calculator
More How To's from your Guide To Candle & Soap Making
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