Glossary of Terms

These are some of the common terms that I use for my classes.

Anti-oxidant - A synthetic chemical or natural material that prevents or slows oxidation and rancidity in oils and soaps.

Absolute - A fragrance extract made by extracting a concrete with alcohol.

Base Oils - A nonfragranced oil that is used to make up the bulk or body of the soap.

Carrier oils - Fresh vegetable, nut or seed oils acts as "carriers" when essential oils are added up to 5% solution, allowing the oils to be easily applied to large areas of the ski where they will be absorbed.

Cold Pressed Oils - Natural oils that have been pressed from the plant material without heat, solvents or chemicals, retaining their original vitamins, minerals, amino acids and essential fatty acids.

Cold Process - A process where fats and oils are converted to soap without cooking. Once the oils are heated to a desired temperature, a lye/water solution is added with stirring, and the oils are converted to soap and glycerin.

Colorant - Natural or synthetic material, such as dyes, pigments, and herbs which are used to color soap.

Digital Scale - A scale that shows the weight in numbers rather than a moving needle. This type of scale is more accurate.

Emollient - A material that has a soothing, softening effect on skin.

Emulsion - A stable, non-separating suspension of oil in water or water in oil.

Emulsifiers - A cosmetic ingredient which assists in combining oils with other ingredients in order to make a stable homogeneous emulsion.

Essential Oil - A fragrant oil derived from plants, stem, petals or leaves.

Extracts - Solutions obtained by immersing fresh or dried herbs, woods, gums or resin in alcohol/water mixture to extract the beneficial properties from the plant material.

Fixative - A viscous (thick) oil with a very low evaporation rated; used in perfumery.

Fragrance Oil - A synthetic or manufactured oil that mimics the more expensive oil. Fragrance oils come in a wider range of fragrances and last longer than essential oils.

Glycerin - A natural liquid produced during saponification.

GSE - Grapefruit seed extract; thought to be an antioxidant.

Hot Process - A soapmaking method involving a heat source. This process includes using lye and oils to create your soap. Saponification takes place while the mixture cooks.

Humectants - Substances that conserve the moisture content of lotions and creams, often attracting moisture from the air.

Lye - The common name for sodium hydroxide.

Melt and Pour - A type of soap, usually transparent, which when heated will melt and then solidify again upon cooling. Often shorten to M&P.

Oxidation - A chemical reaction with oxygen ie oils will become rancid.

Preservatives - Bacteria am micro-organisms quickly multiply in fresh food grade materials and spoil them. Preservatives inhibit the growth of bacteria and extend the useful life of cosmetics.

Rancid - Degraded by oxidation. In the extreme case, oils become cloudy and smelly due to air oxidation.

Rebatching - Preparation of soap by dissolving freshly made soap in water or milk allowing it to crystallize again.

Saponification - The chemical reaction between lye and fats or oils, yielding soap and glycerin as the product of the reaction.

SAP - Short for sapnoification. The amount of lye required to completely saponify a specific amount of fat or oil.

Shelf Life - The amount of time a cosmetic can be kept at normal room temperature before being adversely affected by bacteria, peroxidation and chemical changes.

Soap - The sodium or potassium salt of a fatty acid. Soap is prepared by either by the direct reaction of fatty acids with lye or by the reaction of lye and fats and oils.

Trace - To stir or stick blend oils, water and lye until it begins to thicken.

Wax - An organic neutral molecule that consists of a fatty acid reacted with or attach to a fatty alcohol.