by Harvest McCampbell
Ingredients:
1/4 cup of Naturally Native Massage Oil
1/2 teaspoon liquid lecithin
1/2 cup aloe vera juice or gel
essential oils of sassafras, spruce, cedar and wintergreen
Supplies:
large funnel
1 8-ounce jar with air-tight lid
1 4-ounce jar with air-tight lid
measuring cup
measuring spoons
Step 1 - Make the Oil/Lecithin Blend
Mix 1/4 cup of Naturally Native Massage Oil in a 4-ounce jar and blend in 1/2 teaspoon liquid lecithin. Shake well to emulsify. Label the jar “Naturally Native Oil/Lecithin Blend.”
Step 2 - Mix the Lotion
In an 8-ounce jar mix three teaspoons Naturally Native Oil/Lecithin Blend, one tablespoon glycerin, 1/2 cup aloe vera juice or gel, and one drop each of wintergreen, sassafras, spruce and cedar essential oils. Shake until emulsified. It should have a creamy consistency that does not separate into globules of oil and liquid lecithin.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/lotionNative.php
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Foot Spa Recipe
Ingredients
7 cups of water
2 cups of milk
1/2 cup of sugar
2 tablespoons of lotion
Directions
Mix the water and milk and heat on stovetop or in the microwave. You want the mixture to be as hot as your feet can take. Mix the sugar and lotion in a separate bowl.
Put the milk mixture in large bowl and soak your feet in it for at least 10 minutes. Massage the sugar and lotion mixture in your feet to exfoliate. Rinse with clear water and pat dry. Apply some additional lotion to your soft feet.
Source: http://www.kinderinfo.com/justformom/spa-recipes/foot-spa.htm
7 cups of water
2 cups of milk
1/2 cup of sugar
2 tablespoons of lotion
Directions
Mix the water and milk and heat on stovetop or in the microwave. You want the mixture to be as hot as your feet can take. Mix the sugar and lotion in a separate bowl.
Put the milk mixture in large bowl and soak your feet in it for at least 10 minutes. Massage the sugar and lotion mixture in your feet to exfoliate. Rinse with clear water and pat dry. Apply some additional lotion to your soft feet.
Source: http://www.kinderinfo.com/justformom/spa-recipes/foot-spa.htm
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Vegetable and Carrier Oil Information
I was looking over my Mountain Rose Herb (www.mountainroseherb.com) catalog that I was given in Joan Morais' (http://www.joanmorais.com/) Whipped Butter and Lotion Sticks class at The Nova Studio (www.thenovastudio.com) on July 12, 2008.
On page 44 of the catalog describes the ways that Vegetable and Carrier Oils of their oils (and of the industry). I would like to share with you...
There are a varying degree of quality and are processed by different methods. The following is some information to help you understand the methods of extraction.
Cold Pressed - Mechanical extraction where heat is reduced and minimized, thus maintaining the oils' original constituents and depth. Temperatures are rigorously controlled not to exceed 80-90 degrees F (Fahrenheit). Not practical extraction method for some vegetable oils, but highly regarded as the method of choice.
Expeller Pressed - Natural, mechanical extraction and processing, where only a small amount of heat is produced from friction created by hydraulic presses. Usually around 120-200 degrees F. This makes a fine food grade oil and base for body care because of its fairly undisturbed molecular state.
Refined - Fully processed; exposed to refinement methods that include flash fluctuation in temperatures as high as 450 degrees F and winterization as low as -30 degrees F; deodorization, which removes heavy and/or strong odors; and bleaching, where clays and other mediums alter or remove color and scent. An economical oil in cosmetics and body care, but not the healthiest food grade oil.
Partially Refined - Limited processing may include, but is not limited to, deodorization, winterization and natural bleaching. Used to stabilize oils which may go rancid quickly, and to minimize order and deep color.
Unrefined - Mechanical extraction and screen filtering with no additional refining. Ensures finest quality, best for food and cosmetics. Oil closely retains natural aroma, flavor and color.
On page 44 of the catalog describes the ways that Vegetable and Carrier Oils of their oils (and of the industry). I would like to share with you...
There are a varying degree of quality and are processed by different methods. The following is some information to help you understand the methods of extraction.
Cold Pressed - Mechanical extraction where heat is reduced and minimized, thus maintaining the oils' original constituents and depth. Temperatures are rigorously controlled not to exceed 80-90 degrees F (Fahrenheit). Not practical extraction method for some vegetable oils, but highly regarded as the method of choice.
Expeller Pressed - Natural, mechanical extraction and processing, where only a small amount of heat is produced from friction created by hydraulic presses. Usually around 120-200 degrees F. This makes a fine food grade oil and base for body care because of its fairly undisturbed molecular state.
Refined - Fully processed; exposed to refinement methods that include flash fluctuation in temperatures as high as 450 degrees F and winterization as low as -30 degrees F; deodorization, which removes heavy and/or strong odors; and bleaching, where clays and other mediums alter or remove color and scent. An economical oil in cosmetics and body care, but not the healthiest food grade oil.
Partially Refined - Limited processing may include, but is not limited to, deodorization, winterization and natural bleaching. Used to stabilize oils which may go rancid quickly, and to minimize order and deep color.
Unrefined - Mechanical extraction and screen filtering with no additional refining. Ensures finest quality, best for food and cosmetics. Oil closely retains natural aroma, flavor and color.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Hiring for Your Craft Show Business
The nature of your craft show business and your budget will determine whether or not you need others to help you with any aspect of your craft show business. Needless to say, the
success of your crafts at craft shows will also have a considerable effect on whether or not you will need to hire employees.
On the "free" end, you can get help from friends and family to produce your crafts and help with any business aspects. A tax benefit for "hiring" your children under 18 is that you don't
have to pay social security or medicare taxes if your business is a sole proprietorship or partnership owned solely by you and your spouse.
Next, you can find students or apprentices to work on your crafts for free, or at least inexpensively. Contractors, who you would just use on occasion when you need extra help, would be the next level. You also may have friends who want to pick up a little extra pocket change working on your crafts from home can do some production work for you. A bookkeeper who comes in once a month to balance your checkbook and enter your income and expenses is a contractor, and you don't have to deal with taxes. Check with the IRS or your accountant to be clear about the difference between independent contractors and employees.
If you feel you need employees as your craft show business grows, you should consult an accountant or the Small Business Administration for all the regulations. These might involve
registering with the Department of Labor, applying for Worker's Compensation insurance and securing an employee identification number (EIN) from your state and national government offices. You'll need to apply for an EIN from the IRS anyway if you're using a business name different from your own. When you use your own name as your business name and you have no employees, your social security number will suffice. You might also want to check with your bank, because they may require an EIN to open a business account, even if it's in your own name.
Finally, consider which professionals you'll want to have in your line-up of support. An accountant and lawyer are good to have at least to call when issues come up. Many crafters have a good photographer they use for promotional photos and slides of their work. Quality slides can make the difference in getting accepted to juried craft fairs. You may also occasionally need
the services of a graphic designer to create brochures, hangtags or other marketing materials and a PR person if you want to take out ads or run press releases. All of your decisions concerning using other people to help you succeed are based on your needs, your own abilities and your budget. Everyone needs to make these choices for themselves.
About the Author
Natalie Goyette shows you how to make your craft show business profitable in her best selling ebook: Craft Show Success Secrets. Visit her site: http://www.craftshowsuccess.com/
Source: ArticleTrader.com
success of your crafts at craft shows will also have a considerable effect on whether or not you will need to hire employees.
On the "free" end, you can get help from friends and family to produce your crafts and help with any business aspects. A tax benefit for "hiring" your children under 18 is that you don't
have to pay social security or medicare taxes if your business is a sole proprietorship or partnership owned solely by you and your spouse.
Next, you can find students or apprentices to work on your crafts for free, or at least inexpensively. Contractors, who you would just use on occasion when you need extra help, would be the next level. You also may have friends who want to pick up a little extra pocket change working on your crafts from home can do some production work for you. A bookkeeper who comes in once a month to balance your checkbook and enter your income and expenses is a contractor, and you don't have to deal with taxes. Check with the IRS or your accountant to be clear about the difference between independent contractors and employees.
If you feel you need employees as your craft show business grows, you should consult an accountant or the Small Business Administration for all the regulations. These might involve
registering with the Department of Labor, applying for Worker's Compensation insurance and securing an employee identification number (EIN) from your state and national government offices. You'll need to apply for an EIN from the IRS anyway if you're using a business name different from your own. When you use your own name as your business name and you have no employees, your social security number will suffice. You might also want to check with your bank, because they may require an EIN to open a business account, even if it's in your own name.
Finally, consider which professionals you'll want to have in your line-up of support. An accountant and lawyer are good to have at least to call when issues come up. Many crafters have a good photographer they use for promotional photos and slides of their work. Quality slides can make the difference in getting accepted to juried craft fairs. You may also occasionally need
the services of a graphic designer to create brochures, hangtags or other marketing materials and a PR person if you want to take out ads or run press releases. All of your decisions concerning using other people to help you succeed are based on your needs, your own abilities and your budget. Everyone needs to make these choices for themselves.
About the Author
Natalie Goyette shows you how to make your craft show business profitable in her best selling ebook: Craft Show Success Secrets. Visit her site: http://www.craftshowsuccess.com/
Source: ArticleTrader.com
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Candelilla Wax
Candelilla wax comes to us from the tree of Euphorbia Antisyphillitica and Pedilanthus Pavonis and is predominant in most parts of Mexico. Because of its safe and continued use in food and cosmetics it is popularly incorporated into numerous applications including balms, lotions, chewing gum, solid lotion bars, lip glosses, candles and lipsticks. Because of its high ester, fatty acid and resin properties it is one of the best suited ingredients for increasing the protective coating on cosmetic applications and is a great vegan alternative to traditional beeswax.
This versitile wax is a natural wax in granular form, from the Candelilla plant. This product is twice bleached and filtered to a light yellow color.
It can be purchased from Soapcrafters (http://www.soapcrafters.com/), Majestic Mountain Sage (http://www.thesage.com/), and Mountain Rose Herbs (http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/).
This versitile wax is a natural wax in granular form, from the Candelilla plant. This product is twice bleached and filtered to a light yellow color.
It can be purchased from Soapcrafters (http://www.soapcrafters.com/), Majestic Mountain Sage (http://www.thesage.com/), and Mountain Rose Herbs (http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/).
Friday, July 25, 2008
Mixing Fragrance Oils
Did you know that you can mix and match all fragrance oils to come up with new and unique fragrances of your very own? Mixing fragrance oils is very easy and all you need to do is keep track of how much of each fragrance you add (drops, tsp, etc) during your experimenting and presto, you have your very own custom blended fragrance that can be duplicated any time you need it!
If you would like to see a list of ideas of recipes, Soap Wizards has conveniently come up with some recipes. Check out the link for Mixing Frangrance Oils for ideas or just as a starting point for your own custom blended fragrances! Now, I must warn you these combonations are for their particular fragrance oils. So if you have a fragrance from a different vendor then it maybe slightly different.
Try these out and let us know how they come out!
If you would like to see a list of ideas of recipes, Soap Wizards has conveniently come up with some recipes. Check out the link for Mixing Frangrance Oils for ideas or just as a starting point for your own custom blended fragrances! Now, I must warn you these combonations are for their particular fragrance oils. So if you have a fragrance from a different vendor then it maybe slightly different.
Try these out and let us know how they come out!
Thursday, July 24, 2008
JELLY ROLL SOAP Recipe
(Submitted to Soap Wizards www.soapwizards.com by Ela Heyn)
MATERIALS:
• Either a PVC pipe with end caps, or individual round molds.
• Clear soap base and opaque soap base
• Raspberry (or other fruit) scent
• Cake type scent (sugar cookie or vanilla, etc.)
• Appropriate colorant for fruit scent
TECHNIQUE:
1. Make your "filling" color soap . . something like a clear soap base with raspberry scent and a raspberry color is very nice. Pour this in a thin layer in a pan (like a plastic pan . . something you can get it out of again!)
2. Let it harden just until it's "solid" . . but still pliable. You'll want a layer of soap that's about 6" by 8" or so . . depending on the size of the PVC mold (or other round container) you will be using.
3. When it is still pliable, VERY carefully start peeling the soap from the pan and rolling from one end. Roll it into as tight a spiral (loose roll) as you can get without breaking it. Now, you have two options. They are:
a. Cut the soap into individual spirals, and put each in a round mold (My famous Wal-Mart hockey puck molds work great for this!) or
b. Take the whole soap spiral, and put it in PVC mold or Pringles container (or other round mold.)
4. Either way, once it's in there, fill the REST of the soap mold with a fairly warm over-pour to cause adhesion. (You might want to spritz your spiral with rubbing alcohol first). An opaque, sugar cookie scented over-pour with a hint of gold mica works well for this. When it's done . . voila . . . a jelly roll soap!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.soapwizards.com/tek9.asp?pg=recipes#JELLY%20ROLL%20SOAP
MATERIALS:
• Either a PVC pipe with end caps, or individual round molds.
• Clear soap base and opaque soap base
• Raspberry (or other fruit) scent
• Cake type scent (sugar cookie or vanilla, etc.)
• Appropriate colorant for fruit scent
TECHNIQUE:
1. Make your "filling" color soap . . something like a clear soap base with raspberry scent and a raspberry color is very nice. Pour this in a thin layer in a pan (like a plastic pan . . something you can get it out of again!)
2. Let it harden just until it's "solid" . . but still pliable. You'll want a layer of soap that's about 6" by 8" or so . . depending on the size of the PVC mold (or other round container) you will be using.
3. When it is still pliable, VERY carefully start peeling the soap from the pan and rolling from one end. Roll it into as tight a spiral (loose roll) as you can get without breaking it. Now, you have two options. They are:
a. Cut the soap into individual spirals, and put each in a round mold (My famous Wal-Mart hockey puck molds work great for this!) or
b. Take the whole soap spiral, and put it in PVC mold or Pringles container (or other round mold.)
4. Either way, once it's in there, fill the REST of the soap mold with a fairly warm over-pour to cause adhesion. (You might want to spritz your spiral with rubbing alcohol first). An opaque, sugar cookie scented over-pour with a hint of gold mica works well for this. When it's done . . voila . . . a jelly roll soap!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.soapwizards.com/tek9.asp?pg=recipes#JELLY%20ROLL%20SOAP
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Many Uses for Essential Oils
Throughout history, essential oils have been used for many different purposes. They have been used for medicinal purposes, for embalming the dead, for antiseptic purposes, and for cleaning. Essential oils are extracted from plants and plant material so they are 100% natural. And if they are grown in the right conditions, essential oils can also be organic. There are different grades of essential oils depending upon their end use. If an essential oil is to be used for medicinal purposes, it must be of a higher quality than an oil that will be used simply for aromatherapy.
Essential oils are extracted from various parts of the plant. Some plants, only the flowers are used. In others, the leaves, and in others, the entire plant can be used in the essential oil. The
oils are extracted using various methods. Some common methods of extraction include, expression (basically squeezing the plant under pressure), steam distillation, and soaking in solvent. The methods of extraction can determine the quality of the essential oil.
When shopping for essential oil, there are different grades of oil. If you are just trying to add a scent or aroma to a room, you can use a lower quality, and hence, a less expensive oil. If you need an essential oil for medical purposes, you need a higher or therapeutic grade of essential oil. These oils should be clearly marked as “therapeutic” and may contain the seal of a certified testing agency.
When storing essential oils, you should keep them in a cool, dark place. Sunlight will destroy the potency of essential oil. It is for this reason that higher-quality oils come in dark amber or cobalt blue bottles. These bottles help keep sunlight away from the essential oil.
Before you use essential oil directly on your skin for medicinal or therapeutic purposes, always test a small amount on an inconspicuous area of skin. This way you can find out if you have an allergic reaction to the particular essential oil. Most people will not have any problems with essential oils but it is always prudent to err on the side of safety. If you are sensitive to
a particular oil, try a different species of plant, or try a higher-quality oil.
Essential oils are a good, natural way to heal many ailments. People have found relief from such things as: insomnia, lack of energy, depression, anxiety, muscle aches, injuries, and much more. Since they are natural, most people can use them without any side effects. Essential oils can also be mixed into special recipes that will help alleviate many symptoms at the same time. These mixtures may containthe essential oils from several different plants so you can get the healing properties of many different essential oils in one mixture. This maybe a cost-effective way to use essential oils.
About the Author
Source: ArticleTrader.com
Essential oils are extracted from various parts of the plant. Some plants, only the flowers are used. In others, the leaves, and in others, the entire plant can be used in the essential oil. The
oils are extracted using various methods. Some common methods of extraction include, expression (basically squeezing the plant under pressure), steam distillation, and soaking in solvent. The methods of extraction can determine the quality of the essential oil.
When shopping for essential oil, there are different grades of oil. If you are just trying to add a scent or aroma to a room, you can use a lower quality, and hence, a less expensive oil. If you need an essential oil for medical purposes, you need a higher or therapeutic grade of essential oil. These oils should be clearly marked as “therapeutic” and may contain the seal of a certified testing agency.
When storing essential oils, you should keep them in a cool, dark place. Sunlight will destroy the potency of essential oil. It is for this reason that higher-quality oils come in dark amber or cobalt blue bottles. These bottles help keep sunlight away from the essential oil.
Before you use essential oil directly on your skin for medicinal or therapeutic purposes, always test a small amount on an inconspicuous area of skin. This way you can find out if you have an allergic reaction to the particular essential oil. Most people will not have any problems with essential oils but it is always prudent to err on the side of safety. If you are sensitive to
a particular oil, try a different species of plant, or try a higher-quality oil.
Essential oils are a good, natural way to heal many ailments. People have found relief from such things as: insomnia, lack of energy, depression, anxiety, muscle aches, injuries, and much more. Since they are natural, most people can use them without any side effects. Essential oils can also be mixed into special recipes that will help alleviate many symptoms at the same time. These mixtures may containthe essential oils from several different plants so you can get the healing properties of many different essential oils in one mixture. This maybe a cost-effective way to use essential oils.
About the Author
Dean Novosat writes about health issues on several websites. He has a recent interest in essential oils and their healing properties at http://www.health-oils.com/
Source: ArticleTrader.com
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
What is Carnauba Wax?
Carnauba wax is a botanical product used in a large number of industries. Sometimes called the “Queen of Wax,” carnauba wax has a much harder melting point than other waxes, and is also extremely hard. This makes it ideal for creating extremely strong coatings for floors, automobiles, and other things which see hard wear. In addition, carnauba wax appears in candies, polishes, varnishes, cosmetic products, and in many other places. Although carnauba wax has largely been replaced by synthetics, it is still produced and used in many parts of the world.
A Brazilian tree formally named Copernicia prunifera and otherwise known as the fan or carnauba palm is the source for carnauba wax. The palm has broad fan like leaves attached to toothed stalks. In hot, dry weather, the plant secretes wax to protect the leaves from damage. People who want to collect the wax dry the leaves and then beat them to dislodge the yellowish to brown waxy coating, which usually flakes off. The wax is refined and bleached before it is used. Carnauba palms can live in extreme environments because of their protective wax coating, making them an excellent choice of crop for farmers working with poor soil and weather conditions.
A temperature of 172 degrees Fahrenheit (78 degrees Celsius) is required to melt carnauba wax. It is also not readily soluble. Water cannot break down a layer of carnauba wax, and only certain solvents can, usually in combination with heat. This means that carnauba wax is highly durable. Used plain, it can make something waterproof and wear resistant. Combined with things such as tints and dyes, carnauba wax can be used to create an enduring colored polish. Eventually, hard wear will strip carnauba wax from most surfaces, but a fresh layer can be reapplied. In older homes with hardwood floors and fixtures, carnauba wax was probably used as a conditioner at some point.
The substance is often used instead of or in combination with other waxes because of how strong it is. Many surfers, for example, use waxes for their boards which integrate carnauba. It is also used to coat paper plates, dental floss, and as a vegetarian alternative to gelatin. In the pharmaceutical industry, carnauba wax frequently appears as a tablet coating, and it appears in a number of packaged foods. Unlike many other waxes, a carnauba wax finish will not flake off with time, it will merely become dull. This makes it ideal for locations in which a flaking finish would look unsightly.
Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-carnauba-wax.htm
A Brazilian tree formally named Copernicia prunifera and otherwise known as the fan or carnauba palm is the source for carnauba wax. The palm has broad fan like leaves attached to toothed stalks. In hot, dry weather, the plant secretes wax to protect the leaves from damage. People who want to collect the wax dry the leaves and then beat them to dislodge the yellowish to brown waxy coating, which usually flakes off. The wax is refined and bleached before it is used. Carnauba palms can live in extreme environments because of their protective wax coating, making them an excellent choice of crop for farmers working with poor soil and weather conditions.
A temperature of 172 degrees Fahrenheit (78 degrees Celsius) is required to melt carnauba wax. It is also not readily soluble. Water cannot break down a layer of carnauba wax, and only certain solvents can, usually in combination with heat. This means that carnauba wax is highly durable. Used plain, it can make something waterproof and wear resistant. Combined with things such as tints and dyes, carnauba wax can be used to create an enduring colored polish. Eventually, hard wear will strip carnauba wax from most surfaces, but a fresh layer can be reapplied. In older homes with hardwood floors and fixtures, carnauba wax was probably used as a conditioner at some point.
The substance is often used instead of or in combination with other waxes because of how strong it is. Many surfers, for example, use waxes for their boards which integrate carnauba. It is also used to coat paper plates, dental floss, and as a vegetarian alternative to gelatin. In the pharmaceutical industry, carnauba wax frequently appears as a tablet coating, and it appears in a number of packaged foods. Unlike many other waxes, a carnauba wax finish will not flake off with time, it will merely become dull. This makes it ideal for locations in which a flaking finish would look unsightly.
Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-carnauba-wax.htm
Monday, July 21, 2008
What is the Difference Between Face Cream and Body Lotion?
The big difference between face cream and body lotion is, of course, where you apply it. There are many different brands of skin care products on the market, with different formulas catering to select areas of the human body. Not only are there general face creams and body lotions, there are also eye serums, foot lotions, lip balms, and even cuticle creams. While the brand names and price may vary significantly among face cream and body lotion, the basic formula and method of use are fortunately constant.
Your face is the first part of your body that people see upon meeting you, and it is the face that provides the first visual impression. In order to preserve the youthful and fresh appearance of the facial skin, cosmetologists and dermatologists recommend a daily regimen of face cream applications. It is important for preventing the signs of premature aging, especially since the face is the first body part to succumb to excessive alcohol usage, smoking, fatigue, and stress. Facial skin also secretes more oily sebum from its pores than other body parts, especially when exposed to sunlight. In this sense the face is a high risk area for skin damage and must be protected early on.
The body, on the other hand, is everywhere below the neck and is often concealed under clothes, depending on weather. Because the body's skin is subject to less environmental damage, signs of premature aging are not as easily found as on the face, although excessive exposure to sunlight may prove the statement wrong. If a person is not well hydrated then he or she may have trouble retaining moisture in the skin, making it feel coarse and dry.
Face cream usually contains a higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) due to its higher exposure to sun. Some face creams also claim to combat dryness, imbalances in sebum production, and acne based on ingredients. For example in younger people, face cream that contains alpha hydroxy acid, an enzyme that eats away the dull, dead layers of the skin to reveal a rejuvenated layer underneath has been recommended by dermatologists. For older people, face creams that actively fight signs of aging by reducing lines and wrinkles are desirable. Face creams are usually categorized by the type of skin they are intended to treat: dry, normal, oily, and combination. These different types of skin vary based on distribution of sebum production and all require different formulas of face cream.
Body lotion is usually a quickly absorbable formula that is intended to retain or replenish lost moisture. By helping the skin stay hydrated, it improves the look and feeling of softness in body skin, which is desirable. The formula of body lotion contains more water than oil, creating a thinner formula that is appropriate for daily, all-over use. Body lotion does not require a regimen, although many people find it convenient to apply it right after a shower or before going outdoors. Unlike face cream, body lotion comes in many scents. While facial skin is more sensitive to fragrance and other additives, body skin is naturally less prone to such irritation. Manufacturers of both these products have featured plant extracts, essential volatile oils, and emollients in their products, to try to enhance the lotion's marketable properties. Both face cream and body lotion can be found at any retailer where skin care products are sold.
Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-difference-between-face-cream-and-body-lotion.htm
Your face is the first part of your body that people see upon meeting you, and it is the face that provides the first visual impression. In order to preserve the youthful and fresh appearance of the facial skin, cosmetologists and dermatologists recommend a daily regimen of face cream applications. It is important for preventing the signs of premature aging, especially since the face is the first body part to succumb to excessive alcohol usage, smoking, fatigue, and stress. Facial skin also secretes more oily sebum from its pores than other body parts, especially when exposed to sunlight. In this sense the face is a high risk area for skin damage and must be protected early on.
The body, on the other hand, is everywhere below the neck and is often concealed under clothes, depending on weather. Because the body's skin is subject to less environmental damage, signs of premature aging are not as easily found as on the face, although excessive exposure to sunlight may prove the statement wrong. If a person is not well hydrated then he or she may have trouble retaining moisture in the skin, making it feel coarse and dry.
Face cream usually contains a higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) due to its higher exposure to sun. Some face creams also claim to combat dryness, imbalances in sebum production, and acne based on ingredients. For example in younger people, face cream that contains alpha hydroxy acid, an enzyme that eats away the dull, dead layers of the skin to reveal a rejuvenated layer underneath has been recommended by dermatologists. For older people, face creams that actively fight signs of aging by reducing lines and wrinkles are desirable. Face creams are usually categorized by the type of skin they are intended to treat: dry, normal, oily, and combination. These different types of skin vary based on distribution of sebum production and all require different formulas of face cream.
Body lotion is usually a quickly absorbable formula that is intended to retain or replenish lost moisture. By helping the skin stay hydrated, it improves the look and feeling of softness in body skin, which is desirable. The formula of body lotion contains more water than oil, creating a thinner formula that is appropriate for daily, all-over use. Body lotion does not require a regimen, although many people find it convenient to apply it right after a shower or before going outdoors. Unlike face cream, body lotion comes in many scents. While facial skin is more sensitive to fragrance and other additives, body skin is naturally less prone to such irritation. Manufacturers of both these products have featured plant extracts, essential volatile oils, and emollients in their products, to try to enhance the lotion's marketable properties. Both face cream and body lotion can be found at any retailer where skin care products are sold.
Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-difference-between-face-cream-and-body-lotion.htm
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Cold Process Soap and Types of Oils
August 8th, 2007 by Ambriel Maji
During the process of making soap you can either make a basic recipe of you can dabble a little into the more luxury butters to add to your recipes. Understanding the different types of butters and the effects they will have on your soap recipes can greatly help you understand what you need to do when re-batching a bad batch of cold process soap also.
For a harder, longer lasting more stable bar of soap you would want to use oils like palm oil, beef tallow and/or lard. You can mix and match the amounts of oils you use or use only one type in you recipes.
For a bar that is full of soft creamy lather the best way to go is coconut oil. Your next runners up would be castor oil and palm kernel oil. Coconut being one of the cheapest of the three oils is what the majority of soap maker’s use while making cold process soap.
Now if you’re looking for a great moisturizing or conditioning soap you have even more choices between olive oil, canola oil, sunflower oil and soybean oil. These oils will create a great moisturizing bar of soap and are also assets to making shampoo bars of soap. Just make sure if you are making shampoo bars you do not use a lot of these oils or the persons hair will come out a tad greasy.
Now lets look at those oils that all we women love to have incorporated into our bars of soap. These oils are all top luxury type oils that will create some of the most intense moisturizing benefits in a bar of soap. The oils you will want to use for this effect will be Cocoa butter, Shea butter, almond oil, hemp oil and jojoba oil. I love a mixture of jojoba oil and Shea butter I have found that these two butter together generate one of the most luxurious bars of soap anyone could ask for.
source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/cold-process-soap-and-types-of-oils/
During the process of making soap you can either make a basic recipe of you can dabble a little into the more luxury butters to add to your recipes. Understanding the different types of butters and the effects they will have on your soap recipes can greatly help you understand what you need to do when re-batching a bad batch of cold process soap also.
For a harder, longer lasting more stable bar of soap you would want to use oils like palm oil, beef tallow and/or lard. You can mix and match the amounts of oils you use or use only one type in you recipes.
For a bar that is full of soft creamy lather the best way to go is coconut oil. Your next runners up would be castor oil and palm kernel oil. Coconut being one of the cheapest of the three oils is what the majority of soap maker’s use while making cold process soap.
Now if you’re looking for a great moisturizing or conditioning soap you have even more choices between olive oil, canola oil, sunflower oil and soybean oil. These oils will create a great moisturizing bar of soap and are also assets to making shampoo bars of soap. Just make sure if you are making shampoo bars you do not use a lot of these oils or the persons hair will come out a tad greasy.
Now lets look at those oils that all we women love to have incorporated into our bars of soap. These oils are all top luxury type oils that will create some of the most intense moisturizing benefits in a bar of soap. The oils you will want to use for this effect will be Cocoa butter, Shea butter, almond oil, hemp oil and jojoba oil. I love a mixture of jojoba oil and Shea butter I have found that these two butter together generate one of the most luxurious bars of soap anyone could ask for.
source: http://www.waxandbubbles.com/cold-process-soap-and-types-of-oils/
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Basic Deodorant Powder Formula
(from Better Basics for the Home by Annie Berthold-Bond)
Ingredients:
1/2 cup baking soda
1/2 cup cornstarch
Antibacterial essential oils such as cinnamon, rose, birch or lavender, as preferred
Directions:
Place the baking soda and cornstarch in a glass jar. Add the essential oils; stir and cover. Dampen a powder puff, cotton ball or sea sponge and dab into the mixture (or sprinkle the mixture on the sponge); pat underarms. Makes 1 cup.
Source: http://www.motherearthliving.com/issues/motherearthliving/natural_health/Recipes-to-Make-Your-Own-Soap-Lotion-More_562-1.html?CMP=OTC-RSS
Ingredients:
1/2 cup baking soda
1/2 cup cornstarch
Antibacterial essential oils such as cinnamon, rose, birch or lavender, as preferred
Directions:
Place the baking soda and cornstarch in a glass jar. Add the essential oils; stir and cover. Dampen a powder puff, cotton ball or sea sponge and dab into the mixture (or sprinkle the mixture on the sponge); pat underarms. Makes 1 cup.
Source: http://www.motherearthliving.com/issues/motherearthliving/natural_health/Recipes-to-Make-Your-Own-Soap-Lotion-More_562-1.html?CMP=OTC-RSS
Friday, July 18, 2008
“Just point” Infrared Thermometer
If the candy thermometer you have been using for your soap, bath and body making has died and you are looking for a replacement you may want to consider investing in a “Just point” Infrared Thermometer from Soap Equipment.com (http://soapequipment.com/).
It is a little bit on the expensive side, but if you keep replacing your candy thermometer then you may want to invest in this one. What is really great about this thermometer is that you do not have to leave it in the container while you are making your products products. It is as simple as point and shoot.
If you cannot afford this model, you may want to consider the junior model.
For more information about both of these piece of thermometers, go to http://soapequipment.com/thermometers/
It is a little bit on the expensive side, but if you keep replacing your candy thermometer then you may want to invest in this one. What is really great about this thermometer is that you do not have to leave it in the container while you are making your products products. It is as simple as point and shoot.
If you cannot afford this model, you may want to consider the junior model.
For more information about both of these piece of thermometers, go to http://soapequipment.com/thermometers/
Pixie Lee Soap Forum
has moved and changed it name. Please come and join them at their new location: http://www.soapmakerscorner.com/.
Spa Essentials: Yogi's Foot Reprieve
A cooling, energizing soak for tired feet.
Ingredients:
1 cup sea, mineral, and/or Epsom salts
1/4 cup baking soda
45 drops peppermint essential oil
1/2 pound fresh lemongrass, sliced
Several sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped
2 crushed cardamom pods
Directions:
In a medium-size jar, combine salts, baking soda, and peppermint essential oil. Cover and shake well. In a French press, coffee pot, or teapot, combine fresh lemongrass, chopped fresh thyme, and crushed cardamom pods. Cover with boiling water and let steep for 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, fill a large bowl or basin halfway with warm water. Press or strain the herbs, then add the liquid and 2 to 3 teaspoons of the salts to the basin. Swirl water, then immerse feet for 10 minutes. Since salt water is dehydrating, sip water or herbal tea as you relax.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/
Ingredients:
1 cup sea, mineral, and/or Epsom salts
1/4 cup baking soda
45 drops peppermint essential oil
1/2 pound fresh lemongrass, sliced
Several sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped
2 crushed cardamom pods
Directions:
In a medium-size jar, combine salts, baking soda, and peppermint essential oil. Cover and shake well. In a French press, coffee pot, or teapot, combine fresh lemongrass, chopped fresh thyme, and crushed cardamom pods. Cover with boiling water and let steep for 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, fill a large bowl or basin halfway with warm water. Press or strain the herbs, then add the liquid and 2 to 3 teaspoons of the salts to the basin. Swirl water, then immerse feet for 10 minutes. Since salt water is dehydrating, sip water or herbal tea as you relax.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Differences between Perfume and Perfume Oils
The history of perfume oils dates back to ancient Egypt when these fine scented oils were presented to royalty as gifts. In modern times, however, when the word "perfume" is said, most people think of department store fragrances, which consist mainly of the concentrated oil and alcohol solution. Nevertheless, as more and more people are finding out about them, perfume oils are experiencing great popularity. Here are some interesting facts about perfume oils:
1) Strength of smell - Perfume oils are highly concentrated and up to ten times more concentrated than department store perfumes. This quality allows oils to last longer than their eau de perfume counterparts.
2) Alcohol - Perfumes have alcohol in them, which creates different smell effects. Most body oils use carrier oils like jojoba or grapeseed oil in place of alcohol. In some fragrances, the smell can change as the alcohol evaporates different scent notes through time. With oils, the scent is more constant.
3) Price - A noticeable difference between perfumes and perfume oils is price. Perfumes have a very high markup and great profit margins, which is perhaps why many celebrities have embarked on the trend of creating their own perfumes and colognes. Perfume oils can be sold very cheaply, or even more expensively than the perfumes, depending on how they are positioned in the market.
4) Body chemistry - Just because a perfume or cologne smells good on you, doesn't mean that the oil version will. Perfumes only have a small percentage of oil, so they are quite different than pure body oils. This interaction between the fragrance and your body may produce a different scent perception altogether.
5) Packaging - Clearly, department store perfumes are very nicely packaged and thus make great gifts for friends and family. Many perfume oils are sold in less attractive containers, which is part of the reason for their lower price.
(6) Uses - Perfumes are only intended for use on the body, but perfume oils can be used to create a variety of scented products, like soap, candles, bath oils, air fresheners, and many other types of scented products. Be aware that there are different types of fragrance oils and that pure uncut oils are not safe for use on the skin.
In summary, whether you choose to use perfume oils or not will depend on the factors above. Try out a small sample first and who knows, you might just discover a delightful new product to add to your personal inventory.
About the Author
Criss White is a professional web writer on baby and new mother topics for baby and pregnancy websites. See Body perfume oils(www.bestperfumeoils.com) and Designer Perfume Oils (www.mybabyshowerfavors.com/perfume) for more perfume oil information and supplies.
Note: If you find this article useful, you may reprint it on your website, e-zine, or in your newsletter as long as the credits and resource box remain in tact and the hyperlinks
are active.
Source: http://articletrader.com/shopping/fashion/differences-between-perfume-and-perfume-oils.html
1) Strength of smell - Perfume oils are highly concentrated and up to ten times more concentrated than department store perfumes. This quality allows oils to last longer than their eau de perfume counterparts.
2) Alcohol - Perfumes have alcohol in them, which creates different smell effects. Most body oils use carrier oils like jojoba or grapeseed oil in place of alcohol. In some fragrances, the smell can change as the alcohol evaporates different scent notes through time. With oils, the scent is more constant.
3) Price - A noticeable difference between perfumes and perfume oils is price. Perfumes have a very high markup and great profit margins, which is perhaps why many celebrities have embarked on the trend of creating their own perfumes and colognes. Perfume oils can be sold very cheaply, or even more expensively than the perfumes, depending on how they are positioned in the market.
4) Body chemistry - Just because a perfume or cologne smells good on you, doesn't mean that the oil version will. Perfumes only have a small percentage of oil, so they are quite different than pure body oils. This interaction between the fragrance and your body may produce a different scent perception altogether.
5) Packaging - Clearly, department store perfumes are very nicely packaged and thus make great gifts for friends and family. Many perfume oils are sold in less attractive containers, which is part of the reason for their lower price.
(6) Uses - Perfumes are only intended for use on the body, but perfume oils can be used to create a variety of scented products, like soap, candles, bath oils, air fresheners, and many other types of scented products. Be aware that there are different types of fragrance oils and that pure uncut oils are not safe for use on the skin.
In summary, whether you choose to use perfume oils or not will depend on the factors above. Try out a small sample first and who knows, you might just discover a delightful new product to add to your personal inventory.
About the Author
Criss White is a professional web writer on baby and new mother topics for baby and pregnancy websites. See Body perfume oils(www.bestperfumeoils.com) and Designer Perfume Oils (www.mybabyshowerfavors.com/perfume) for more perfume oil information and supplies.
Note: If you find this article useful, you may reprint it on your website, e-zine, or in your newsletter as long as the credits and resource box remain in tact and the hyperlinks
are active.
Source: http://articletrader.com/shopping/fashion/differences-between-perfume-and-perfume-oils.html
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Body Glitter Recipe
From Sherri Osborn
Make your own body glitter using this simple recipe.
Materials Needed:
Aloe Vera Gel
Glitter
Food Coloring (optional)
Small container (recycle old makeup containers or 35mm film containers, or look in stores that carry beads, crafts, or fishing tackle)
Instructions:
Fill your container about 3/4 full with the aloe vera gel. If you are using food coloring, mix a few drops at a time in with your gel until you get the desired color. Stir in a sprinkling of glitter at a time to avoid clumps. Add as much or as little glitter as you like.
You can try larger glitter and even small shapes such as stars; or, for a more shimmering look, use fine glitter.
Source: http://familycrafts.about.com/cs/recipecollections/a/blbodyglitter.htm
Make your own body glitter using this simple recipe.
Materials Needed:
Aloe Vera Gel
Glitter
Food Coloring (optional)
Small container (recycle old makeup containers or 35mm film containers, or look in stores that carry beads, crafts, or fishing tackle)
Instructions:
Fill your container about 3/4 full with the aloe vera gel. If you are using food coloring, mix a few drops at a time in with your gel until you get the desired color. Stir in a sprinkling of glitter at a time to avoid clumps. Add as much or as little glitter as you like.
You can try larger glitter and even small shapes such as stars; or, for a more shimmering look, use fine glitter.
Source: http://familycrafts.about.com/cs/recipecollections/a/blbodyglitter.htm
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Soap Guild 2008 Conference
I officially became a member of the Handmde Soap Makers Guild. And I am keeping my fingers crossed that I can attend the 2009 conference in Palm Springs.
If you are interested in seeing what the 2008 conference was all about here is a clip that was posted on You Tube:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=OwG97sPua8o
If you are interested in seeing what the 2008 conference was all about here is a clip that was posted on You Tube:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=OwG97sPua8o
If you are interested in learning more about the Handcrafted Soapmaker Guild, go to their website at http://www.soapguild.org/.
Bath Salts from Aroma Web
Ingredients:
3 cups Dead Sea salt, regular sea salt or Epsom salt, or a blend of two or three of these salts. Sea salts typically come in several grain sizes. Combining multiple grain sizes can make your salts more appealing. Keep in mind, however, that more course grains do take longer to dissolve in the tub.
15-24 drops of your selected essential oil or essential oil blend. Be sure and take heed in the safety data for the oil(s) you choose to use.
1 tablespoon fractionated coconut oil or other carrier oil for moisturization (optional)
Directions:
Place the salt mixture into a bowl. If you have chosen to include the optional vegetable oil to your salt recipe, add it to the plain salts and mix well with a spoon or fork. Then, add the drops of your chosen essential oils. Again, mix very well. Add the mixture to a pretty jar, salt tube, or container that has a tight fitting lid. Salts that are kept in a container that is not air tight will lose their aroma more quickly.
After a day, you may wish to mix well again to ensure that the oils are well incorporated.
To Color to Your Salts:
For the most natural bath salt recipe, leave your bath salts uncolored. Certain exotic salts including Hawaiian Red Sea salt and Black Sea Pink salt are naturally colorful. Try mixing these salts with with Dead Sea or plain sea salt for a speckled effect.
If you would like to add color to your salts, FD&C liquid dye or mica powder can be added before you add the essential oils. When adding FD&C grade liquid dye, be sure to add only a drop at a time and stir well. When adding mica powder, only add a tiny amount (1/16-1/8 a teaspoon is usually sufficient) and stir very well. Using too much dye or mica powder can discolor the water and discolor skin, so be very careful. Leave bath salts at a soft pastel color. It is also important that you make sure that you are using skin-safe colorants and that the user of your bath salt blend does not have any allergies or sensitizations with the colorant that you have chosen.
To Use:
Add 1/2-1 cup of the salts to running bath water. Mix well to ensure that the salt has dispersed well in the tub before entering. To keep the essential oils from evaporating too quickly, you can add the bath salts just before getting in the tub instead of while the water is running. Sitting on undissolved chunky bath salts, however, can be uncomfortable, so make sure the salts have dissolved well before entering.
3 cups Dead Sea salt, regular sea salt or Epsom salt, or a blend of two or three of these salts. Sea salts typically come in several grain sizes. Combining multiple grain sizes can make your salts more appealing. Keep in mind, however, that more course grains do take longer to dissolve in the tub.
15-24 drops of your selected essential oil or essential oil blend. Be sure and take heed in the safety data for the oil(s) you choose to use.
1 tablespoon fractionated coconut oil or other carrier oil for moisturization (optional)
Directions:
Place the salt mixture into a bowl. If you have chosen to include the optional vegetable oil to your salt recipe, add it to the plain salts and mix well with a spoon or fork. Then, add the drops of your chosen essential oils. Again, mix very well. Add the mixture to a pretty jar, salt tube, or container that has a tight fitting lid. Salts that are kept in a container that is not air tight will lose their aroma more quickly.
After a day, you may wish to mix well again to ensure that the oils are well incorporated.
To Color to Your Salts:
For the most natural bath salt recipe, leave your bath salts uncolored. Certain exotic salts including Hawaiian Red Sea salt and Black Sea Pink salt are naturally colorful. Try mixing these salts with with Dead Sea or plain sea salt for a speckled effect.
If you would like to add color to your salts, FD&C liquid dye or mica powder can be added before you add the essential oils. When adding FD&C grade liquid dye, be sure to add only a drop at a time and stir well. When adding mica powder, only add a tiny amount (1/16-1/8 a teaspoon is usually sufficient) and stir very well. Using too much dye or mica powder can discolor the water and discolor skin, so be very careful. Leave bath salts at a soft pastel color. It is also important that you make sure that you are using skin-safe colorants and that the user of your bath salt blend does not have any allergies or sensitizations with the colorant that you have chosen.
To Use:
Add 1/2-1 cup of the salts to running bath water. Mix well to ensure that the salt has dispersed well in the tub before entering. To keep the essential oils from evaporating too quickly, you can add the bath salts just before getting in the tub instead of while the water is running. Sitting on undissolved chunky bath salts, however, can be uncomfortable, so make sure the salts have dissolved well before entering.
For more information on aromatic bathing, view the Aromatherapy Baths article.
Monday, July 14, 2008
Stop the FDA Globalization Act of 2008!!
This is an extremely important issue if you are in business creating your own soap, bath and body products.
For the full article go to http://www.indiebusinessblog.com/indie_business/2008/06/stop-the-fda-gl.html. It explains in full detail on the issue and what you can do to help stop it.
To view the clip regarding this issue, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eW9SlqiA_DI
Pass the word along! Let's stop this piece of legislation in its tracks!
For the full article go to http://www.indiebusinessblog.com/indie_business/2008/06/stop-the-fda-gl.html. It explains in full detail on the issue and what you can do to help stop it.
To view the clip regarding this issue, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eW9SlqiA_DI
Pass the word along! Let's stop this piece of legislation in its tracks!
Seeking an alternative ingredient
I make a bath jelly which contains gelatin to make it firm up. And I was wondering if there is a alternative I can use for students who may be vegans or vegetarians.
Please leave your suggestion in the comment area. It would be most helpful.
Thank you!
Please leave your suggestion in the comment area. It would be most helpful.
Thank you!
Five Tips For Buying The Best Aromatherapy Oils
Walking into an aromatherapy supply store can feel like walking into a slice of heaven. The sweet scent of aromatic skin care solutions excite the soul while the tantalizing aromas coming from scented candles steal the show. However, the aromatherapy connoisseur knows that not every scented oil and sweet smelling candle on the shelf contains healing power. Here are five tips to help you find only the best in aromatherapy products
Tip #1: Check the bottle. If your aromatherapy essential oil is in a clear bottle or a plastic bottle, then you should not get it. Light has a damaging effect on oil and truly essential aromatherapy oils can be contaminated when stored in plastic bottles.
Tip #2: Check the label. Keywords such as “perfume” or “fragrance oil” are a big sign that the oils contained within the bottle are not pure essential aromatherapy oils. Even though the bottle may have the term aromatherapy printed on it, if you see natural identical oil or fragrance oil on the label, then your aromatherapy oil more than likely contains unwanted perfumery chemicals.
Tip #3: Check for dust. If you see an aromatherapy product on the shelf that has dust on its cap or around its container, then avoid getting it. Dust generally means that your aromatherapy product is old. Like many other types of oil and solutions, as aromatherapy products age, they lose their healing powers and aromatic scent.
Tip #4: Check the price. Different types of aromatherapy oils demand different prices. Pure therapeutic oils that are exotic cost more than aromatherapy oils that are more common. If every bottle of aromatherapy oil is the same price, you may want to reconsider
Tip #5: Do your research. Each type of aromatherapy oil has a different therapeutic quality. The scent of aromatic essential oils such as cypress is good for treating coughs and asthma. However, the scent of Patchouli is used for anxiety, depression, and healing skin conditions.
Don’t let the sweet talk of the salesman override the natural therapeutic power of pure essential aromatherapy oils. Whether you are purchasing your aromatherapy supplies from one of the many great online retailers or from the local establishment at the shopping center down the road, by following these five tips you can avoid the pitfalls and start enjoying the healing power of aromatherapy.
About the Author
Vincent DeLuca is author of “Healing Health from Home.” To learn more about aromatherapy and purchasing aromatherapy supplies, look at the aromatherapy resources available at http://www.blogger.com/'' target='_blankclass='navigation'>http://www.aromatherapy-oils.info/
Source: http://www.articletrader.com/
Tip #1: Check the bottle. If your aromatherapy essential oil is in a clear bottle or a plastic bottle, then you should not get it. Light has a damaging effect on oil and truly essential aromatherapy oils can be contaminated when stored in plastic bottles.
Tip #2: Check the label. Keywords such as “perfume” or “fragrance oil” are a big sign that the oils contained within the bottle are not pure essential aromatherapy oils. Even though the bottle may have the term aromatherapy printed on it, if you see natural identical oil or fragrance oil on the label, then your aromatherapy oil more than likely contains unwanted perfumery chemicals.
Tip #3: Check for dust. If you see an aromatherapy product on the shelf that has dust on its cap or around its container, then avoid getting it. Dust generally means that your aromatherapy product is old. Like many other types of oil and solutions, as aromatherapy products age, they lose their healing powers and aromatic scent.
Tip #4: Check the price. Different types of aromatherapy oils demand different prices. Pure therapeutic oils that are exotic cost more than aromatherapy oils that are more common. If every bottle of aromatherapy oil is the same price, you may want to reconsider
Tip #5: Do your research. Each type of aromatherapy oil has a different therapeutic quality. The scent of aromatic essential oils such as cypress is good for treating coughs and asthma. However, the scent of Patchouli is used for anxiety, depression, and healing skin conditions.
Don’t let the sweet talk of the salesman override the natural therapeutic power of pure essential aromatherapy oils. Whether you are purchasing your aromatherapy supplies from one of the many great online retailers or from the local establishment at the shopping center down the road, by following these five tips you can avoid the pitfalls and start enjoying the healing power of aromatherapy.
About the Author
Vincent DeLuca is author of “Healing Health from Home.” To learn more about aromatherapy and purchasing aromatherapy supplies, look at the aromatherapy resources available at http://www.blogger.com/'' target='_blankclass='navigation'>http://www.aromatherapy-oils.info/
Source: http://www.articletrader.com/
Sunday, July 13, 2008
M&P Soap Making Recipes from Go Planet Earth
While I was checking out Go Planet Earths website (http://goplanetearth.com/) for gel colorants, I found these really fun and unique melt and pour soapmaking projects that I though you would like to see. These projects look really easy to do. I really wanted to include the fish in a bag project because I saw them in a local garden center selling the competed project for $10.00 each.
Salt Gem
You Tube Clip (http://youtube.com/watch?v=_7_UDAyiJ6c)
Flower Pot
Magnets
3D Soap
Glitter Soap
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Watermelon Shampoo Bar
by Niki aka Momma A.
Ingredients:
12 oz coconut oil
19 oz olive oil
12 oz castor oil
16 oz water
6 oz lye
1 oz watermelon fragrance oil
Directions:
Pour when both mixtures have reached 100°F. When you see a trace, add 1 oz. fragrance oil. Pour into mold. This will take longer than normal to set up. Leave in the mold for 2 or 3 days. Cut when firm. Cure for about 6 weeks.
Please note: This is a cold process soap recipe.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.mayasmom.com/journal/mommaa/41651/watermelon_shampoo_bar
Ingredients:
12 oz coconut oil
19 oz olive oil
12 oz castor oil
16 oz water
6 oz lye
1 oz watermelon fragrance oil
Directions:
Pour when both mixtures have reached 100°F. When you see a trace, add 1 oz. fragrance oil. Pour into mold. This will take longer than normal to set up. Leave in the mold for 2 or 3 days. Cut when firm. Cure for about 6 weeks.
Please note: This is a cold process soap recipe.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.mayasmom.com/journal/mommaa/41651/watermelon_shampoo_bar
Friday, July 11, 2008
What is Shower Gel?
There are lot of people out there, including myself, that use a shower gel instead of a bar of soap to cleanse myself in my morning shower. If you are not one that uses this type of product, then check out this explaination from Wisegeek.com:
"Shower gel, sometimes referred to as body wash, is a personal care product similar to liquid soap which can be used to clean the body while showering. Many people prefer using shower gel because the product is easier to handle than bar soap and leaves no messy soap scum residue in the shower.
Shower gel is available in a variety of formulas and is often sold as part of a complete product line that includes coordinating perfumes, lotions, scrubs, and body sprays. You can find shower gel with fruit or floral inspired scents, as well as products designed to appeal to more masculine tastes. Several manufacturers sell aromatherapy shower gels that promise to reduce stress, promote a more restful sleep, or boost your energy levels. There are also special shower gels made for people with very dry or sensitive skin as well as shower gels with avocado oil, Shea butter, milk proteins, and other popular skin care ingredients. If you’re short on time in the morning, you may even want to try one of the all-in-one shower gels that can double as a shampoo and conditioner.
Shower gel, like many other types of personal care products, is available in a wide variety of price ranges. You can find inexpensive shower gels at large discount stores such as Wal-Mart or Target for a fraction of the cost of the designer shower gels available at fine department stores and specialty boutiques. While more expensive shower gels do tend to use slightly higher quality ingredients and have longer lasting fragrances, the majority of this price difference can be attributed to increased marketing and advertising costs.
If you’re trying to save money, you can make the most of your shower gel by washing with a mesh bath sponge that will help create a rich foaming lather. You can also stretch your shower gel by diluting the product with water, since most shower gels are much thicker than what is truly necessary. The majority of shower gel brands can be diluted with 25-50% water without a noticeable effect on performance.
If you can’t find a product that suits your needs, try making your own customized shower gel. There are many websites which offer detailed tutorials for how to make your own shower gels, massage oils, bath bombs, and other homemade toiletries. In addition, most larger craft stores sell unscented shower gel bases that can be customized by using various essential oils and skin care additives."
Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-shower-gel.htm
"Shower gel, sometimes referred to as body wash, is a personal care product similar to liquid soap which can be used to clean the body while showering. Many people prefer using shower gel because the product is easier to handle than bar soap and leaves no messy soap scum residue in the shower.
Shower gel is available in a variety of formulas and is often sold as part of a complete product line that includes coordinating perfumes, lotions, scrubs, and body sprays. You can find shower gel with fruit or floral inspired scents, as well as products designed to appeal to more masculine tastes. Several manufacturers sell aromatherapy shower gels that promise to reduce stress, promote a more restful sleep, or boost your energy levels. There are also special shower gels made for people with very dry or sensitive skin as well as shower gels with avocado oil, Shea butter, milk proteins, and other popular skin care ingredients. If you’re short on time in the morning, you may even want to try one of the all-in-one shower gels that can double as a shampoo and conditioner.
Shower gel, like many other types of personal care products, is available in a wide variety of price ranges. You can find inexpensive shower gels at large discount stores such as Wal-Mart or Target for a fraction of the cost of the designer shower gels available at fine department stores and specialty boutiques. While more expensive shower gels do tend to use slightly higher quality ingredients and have longer lasting fragrances, the majority of this price difference can be attributed to increased marketing and advertising costs.
If you’re trying to save money, you can make the most of your shower gel by washing with a mesh bath sponge that will help create a rich foaming lather. You can also stretch your shower gel by diluting the product with water, since most shower gels are much thicker than what is truly necessary. The majority of shower gel brands can be diluted with 25-50% water without a noticeable effect on performance.
If you can’t find a product that suits your needs, try making your own customized shower gel. There are many websites which offer detailed tutorials for how to make your own shower gels, massage oils, bath bombs, and other homemade toiletries. In addition, most larger craft stores sell unscented shower gel bases that can be customized by using various essential oils and skin care additives."
Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-shower-gel.htm
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Drying Lotion for Problem Skin
by Harvest McCampbell
This lotion is helpful to use on clients whose skin is prone to break-outs.
Ingredients:
1/8 cup each comfrey leaf and comfrey root
2/3 cup glycerine
1/3 cup water
1 cup alcohol (rubbing, vodka or Everclear)
1 teaspoon liquid lecithin
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup aloe vera juice or gel
Supplies
saucepan
strainer
large funnel
3 10-ounce jars with air-tight lids
1 5-ounce jar with air-tight lid
spoon
measuring spoons
measuring cup
Step 1 - Make the Glycerite
Place 1/8 cup comfrey leaf and 1/8 cup comfrey root in a small saucepan. Cover with 2/3 cup glycerin and 1/3 cup water. Barely simmer on low for two to four hours, stirring occasionally. The longer time is preferred, as this extracts more of the herbs’ healing properties and will make a stronger glycerite. Strain into a clean 10-ounce glass jar with an air-tight lid. Putting the lid on the container while hot will cause the lid to seal, and will prevent mold spores from landing on the glycerite. Save the herbs. Label the container “Glycerite.”
Step 2 - Make the Comfrey Tincture
Place the strained herbs in another 10-ounce clean glass jar with an air-tight lid. Add one cup rubbing alcohol, vodka or Everclear. Label the container “Comfrey Tincture After Glycerite.” Place it in a warm, dry place for at least one week. Shake from time to time.
Step 3 - Make the Oil/Lecithin Blend
In a 5-ounce glass container with air-tight lid, mix one teaspoon liquid lecithin with 4 ounces olive oil. Stir until well blended. Label the container “Olive Oil/Lecithin Blend.”
Step 4 - Mix the Lotion
Now you’re ready to shake it up! Into the remaining 10-ounce glass jar with an air-tight lid, measure 1/4 cup comfrey glycerite, 1/4 cup comfrey tincture, 1/2 cup aloe vera juice or gel, and two teaspoons of your olive oil/lecithin blend. Shake vigorously for two minutes, three or more times a day until completely emulsified. This may take a few days. If ingredients separate, just shake them back together.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilDrying.php
This lotion is helpful to use on clients whose skin is prone to break-outs.
Ingredients:
1/8 cup each comfrey leaf and comfrey root
2/3 cup glycerine
1/3 cup water
1 cup alcohol (rubbing, vodka or Everclear)
1 teaspoon liquid lecithin
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup aloe vera juice or gel
Supplies
saucepan
strainer
large funnel
3 10-ounce jars with air-tight lids
1 5-ounce jar with air-tight lid
spoon
measuring spoons
measuring cup
Step 1 - Make the Glycerite
Place 1/8 cup comfrey leaf and 1/8 cup comfrey root in a small saucepan. Cover with 2/3 cup glycerin and 1/3 cup water. Barely simmer on low for two to four hours, stirring occasionally. The longer time is preferred, as this extracts more of the herbs’ healing properties and will make a stronger glycerite. Strain into a clean 10-ounce glass jar with an air-tight lid. Putting the lid on the container while hot will cause the lid to seal, and will prevent mold spores from landing on the glycerite. Save the herbs. Label the container “Glycerite.”
Step 2 - Make the Comfrey Tincture
Place the strained herbs in another 10-ounce clean glass jar with an air-tight lid. Add one cup rubbing alcohol, vodka or Everclear. Label the container “Comfrey Tincture After Glycerite.” Place it in a warm, dry place for at least one week. Shake from time to time.
Step 3 - Make the Oil/Lecithin Blend
In a 5-ounce glass container with air-tight lid, mix one teaspoon liquid lecithin with 4 ounces olive oil. Stir until well blended. Label the container “Olive Oil/Lecithin Blend.”
Step 4 - Mix the Lotion
Now you’re ready to shake it up! Into the remaining 10-ounce glass jar with an air-tight lid, measure 1/4 cup comfrey glycerite, 1/4 cup comfrey tincture, 1/2 cup aloe vera juice or gel, and two teaspoons of your olive oil/lecithin blend. Shake vigorously for two minutes, three or more times a day until completely emulsified. This may take a few days. If ingredients separate, just shake them back together.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: https://www.massagemag.com/Magazine/2001/issue89/oilDrying.php
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Sparkling Soap
(Submitted by Soap Wizards)
MATERIALS:
• Clear soap base
• Soap making fragrance of your choice
• Soap mold of your choice
• Colored mica (start with 1/2 tea spoon of mica and add or subtract according to your tastes)
• Distilled water (2 table spoons)
TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt your soap base and add your choice of fragrance.
2. Mix mica and water together and add to your melted soap.
3. Let the melted soap cool slightly, and pour into your soap mold.
4. Put your soap mold immediately into a freezer. (this keeps the mica from settling during the cooling process)
5. Un-mold and your soap is ready to use!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: www.soapwizards.com
MATERIALS:
• Clear soap base
• Soap making fragrance of your choice
• Soap mold of your choice
• Colored mica (start with 1/2 tea spoon of mica and add or subtract according to your tastes)
• Distilled water (2 table spoons)
TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt your soap base and add your choice of fragrance.
2. Mix mica and water together and add to your melted soap.
3. Let the melted soap cool slightly, and pour into your soap mold.
4. Put your soap mold immediately into a freezer. (this keeps the mica from settling during the cooling process)
5. Un-mold and your soap is ready to use!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: www.soapwizards.com
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Lilac Solid Perfume Recipe
Summary:
Heavenly scent of lilac in a solid form with optional decorative flowers.
Ingredients:
1 part fractionated coconut oil
1 part bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba MP 56
Lilac fragrance oil (it is a good idea to have .5 oz for each ounce of fractionated coconut oil
Individual lilac flowers cut from the bunch--if possible go for organic, you don't want pesticides! (optional)
Instructions:
Put bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba and coconut oil into a non-reactive pan and heat on low until wax melts into the oil. Test the consistency by sticking a cold spoon into the mix. If it is too hard or soft when it cools on the spoon, add wax or oil. Stir and let cool until you can touch the mixture, but before it starts to harden. Stir in fragrance oil to desired strength. Stir again and pour into containers. If desired take lilac flowers and place them into the mix before it hardens over, they look the best when they are barely covered. I recommend using a toothpick or tweezers to place them. Another good way is to make a batch and fill the containers 2/3 full, let it harden, put the flowers on top and spoon another batch on top of them. This recipe can be used with other scents also.
Source: http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/recipe/recipe.asp?recipe_id=44
Heavenly scent of lilac in a solid form with optional decorative flowers.
Ingredients:
1 part fractionated coconut oil
1 part bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba MP 56
Lilac fragrance oil (it is a good idea to have .5 oz for each ounce of fractionated coconut oil
Individual lilac flowers cut from the bunch--if possible go for organic, you don't want pesticides! (optional)
Instructions:
Put bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba and coconut oil into a non-reactive pan and heat on low until wax melts into the oil. Test the consistency by sticking a cold spoon into the mix. If it is too hard or soft when it cools on the spoon, add wax or oil. Stir and let cool until you can touch the mixture, but before it starts to harden. Stir in fragrance oil to desired strength. Stir again and pour into containers. If desired take lilac flowers and place them into the mix before it hardens over, they look the best when they are barely covered. I recommend using a toothpick or tweezers to place them. Another good way is to make a batch and fill the containers 2/3 full, let it harden, put the flowers on top and spoon another batch on top of them. This recipe can be used with other scents also.
Source: http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/recipe/recipe.asp?recipe_id=44
Monday, July 7, 2008
Things to Avoid When Making Brochures
Most people ask themselves, why did my brochure fail? Most
have paid hundreds or thousands of money for this and yet
they’re inefficient.
Now, this article aims to provide you with the “Don’ts” in
making brochures. These “Don’ts:” are the stuffs that you should
avoid committing if you aim to create high quality or efficient
brochures. These are the common mistakes that companies
usually commit during brochure making.
There are usually two main processes involvedin making brochures. Usually, errors are committed in such processes. So, here they are:
First is the design. Now, among the reasons why brochures fail is because of their layout. The design of your brochure is crucial. Why? Well, maybe because of the fact that a layout or design is the arrangement of visual elements.
Now, what are the common errors in this process?
First, putting elements in places they don’t belong would mean failure. In order to have a good design you have to arrange everything and aim to make your brochure layout look neat and pleasing to the eyes.
Put images, if you have, in places where they won’t be blocked other images. Avoid putting too many images on each page of your brochure. There are many times when brochures look messy because there are way too many images on each page.
Also, use images that are relatable to your services and/or
products. Use just enough images; however, make sure that they are really attractive.
Second, error committed in making brochure designs pertains to the color arrangements. Avoid using colors very dark or very light colors. Just enough light and darkness is fine. Don’t use too many colors or you’ll end up having a brochure that’s not readable.
Mixing background images and texts is also difficult, so, if you mix them or if you intend to put texts on top of your images, make sure that the texts are still readable.
Now, on to the next process is the actual production of brochures or better known as brochure printing. You may be asking, what can be the errors committed in printing?
Most printing services are known to provide excellent prints; therefore, no errors should be committed during brochure printing, right? However, have you ever thought about their suitability to you printing needs?
Printing process and/or services are the ones that give justification to your prints. Finding a proper printing service and/or process is just like finding a new car. You have to know the capabilities and the drawbacks of the printing service that you’re going to use. Doing so will give you results like you’ve always imagined.
About the Author
For comments and suggestions kindly visit Brochures
Printing
Source: ArticleTrader.com
have paid hundreds or thousands of money for this and yet
they’re inefficient.
Now, this article aims to provide you with the “Don’ts” in
making brochures. These “Don’ts:” are the stuffs that you should
avoid committing if you aim to create high quality or efficient
brochures. These are the common mistakes that companies
usually commit during brochure making.
There are usually two main processes involvedin making brochures. Usually, errors are committed in such processes. So, here they are:
First is the design. Now, among the reasons why brochures fail is because of their layout. The design of your brochure is crucial. Why? Well, maybe because of the fact that a layout or design is the arrangement of visual elements.
Now, what are the common errors in this process?
First, putting elements in places they don’t belong would mean failure. In order to have a good design you have to arrange everything and aim to make your brochure layout look neat and pleasing to the eyes.
Put images, if you have, in places where they won’t be blocked other images. Avoid putting too many images on each page of your brochure. There are many times when brochures look messy because there are way too many images on each page.
Also, use images that are relatable to your services and/or
products. Use just enough images; however, make sure that they are really attractive.
Second, error committed in making brochure designs pertains to the color arrangements. Avoid using colors very dark or very light colors. Just enough light and darkness is fine. Don’t use too many colors or you’ll end up having a brochure that’s not readable.
Mixing background images and texts is also difficult, so, if you mix them or if you intend to put texts on top of your images, make sure that the texts are still readable.
Now, on to the next process is the actual production of brochures or better known as brochure printing. You may be asking, what can be the errors committed in printing?
Most printing services are known to provide excellent prints; therefore, no errors should be committed during brochure printing, right? However, have you ever thought about their suitability to you printing needs?
Printing process and/or services are the ones that give justification to your prints. Finding a proper printing service and/or process is just like finding a new car. You have to know the capabilities and the drawbacks of the printing service that you’re going to use. Doing so will give you results like you’ve always imagined.
About the Author
For comments and suggestions kindly visit Brochures
Printing
Source: ArticleTrader.com
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Shampoo Bar with Panthenol & Invigorating EO blend
Shampoo bars are solid soap bars that have a little extra something that makes them hair friendly. Some of the ingredients you may find in shampoo bars are panthenol, oils such as castor oil and wheatgerm oil, antifungal and antibacterial ingredients and even silk. Shampoo bars can be made using melt and pour soap base or any other kind of soapmaking process such as hot or cold process method.
Here is a brief description of these ingredients:
Castor oil - Commonly used humectant in soaps and cosmetics. Too much castor oil produces a soap that is too soft. However, that can be counteracted by adding only 2-3% in soap or using palm oil and sodium lactate to harden the bar.
Panthenol - The provitamin of vitamin B5. It is used as a Humectant, moisturizer and emollient; readily binds to hair shaft, sealing in moisture and giving the appearance of shine.
Silk - produces a bar of soap with a wonderful silky feel. To find out more about using silk in soap see article Add Silk to Soap.
Antifungal and Antibaterial ingredients - some ingredients purported to have antibacterial properties are neem oil, pine tar, and certain essential oils. To find out more about neem and its wonderful properties in soap read Using Neem oil to Make Soap and to check out the wonderful properties in pine tar, read Pine Tar soap for Psoriasis.
This recipe is a simple one with a base of coconut oil and a generous amount of castor oil for its humectant properties. The cocoa butter makes this a hard bar of soap and brings a sugary sweetness to the refreshing spicy peppermint strong notes.
Ingredients:
Coconut Oil --------------16 oz.
Castor Oil----------------8 oz.
Cocoa Butter--------------8 oz.
Lye ----------------------4.81 oz.
Water---------------------10 oz.
Panthenol-----------------0.64 oz (1-2%)
Sodium Lactate------------0.64 oz.
-----------------------------------
Total Batch size = 32 oz.
Essential oil blend
Peppermint---------------- 1 part
Rosemary------------------ 1 part
Cloves-------------------- 2 part
Directions:
1. Open windows to allow fresh air to come into room.
2. Put on chemical mask. Use the mask when weighing the lye and while combining the lye with the water. Don gloves and protective goggles.
3. Get the two pitchers, one to weigh the lye and the other to weigh the water. Weigh water in one pitcher and weigh lye in the next. Add lye to the water and stir. Note: Never add the water to the lye or it may erupt into a volcano-like mass that spills everywhere.
3. Mix lye and water gently but thoroughly to dissolve the lye particles in the liquid. A whisk makes dispersing the lye in the water easy. Dissolve all the lye particles which sometimes stubbornly refuses to break up and may clump. It is important to stir gently enough so it does not splash everywhere.
4. After mixing lye and water, you will notice that the container is very hot; this is because the lye and water are involved in a chemical process that produces heat. The temperature is too hot to immediately combine the lye with the oils, so remove it from your primary soap making area and leave it somewhere to cool down a bit (100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit)- in an area that is inaccessible to children or pets.
5. Heat oils and melt any solid fats. The pot used should be large enough so that after adding the lye and water mixture, there is enough room to mix so that it does not easily splash out of the container.
6. Leave oils to cool to the same temperature as the lye 100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Check temperature with thermometer, wiping off to check the next liquid or use two different thermometers. After both liquids have reached the desired temperature, add lye/water liquid to the cooled oils.
7. Stir with the wire whisk briskly, or use a stick blender, which speeds up the whole process immensely. We are mixing to reach trace. Trace is the point when the mixture thickens, appears opaque and shiny and when the whisk or stick blender leaves an impression after it is stirred. This will look similar to a gravy or sauce of medium to thick consistency. It usually takes anywhere from 15 – 40 minutes of stirring to reach trace. If using the wire whisk, after mixing for 5 minutes or so, take a break of a couple minutes and continue stirring. I usually stir in between doing other things. After making soap several times, one learns to gauge how much time is actually needed to reach trace in a certain recipe. However, for the first time making soap, it is important to be vigilant and watch for discrete changes that occur in the mixture.
8. If using the stick blender, keep the blender blades immersed near the bottom of the pot stirring in a circular and figure eights. What we need is to make sure all of the mixture is stirred. It is especially important to have a pot that is deep enough with ample headroom when using the stick blender. The stick blender causes more turbulence in the mixture, therefore increasing the risk for accidental spillage. Turn the blender on after immersing it in the lye/oil mixture, so it does not splash out of the pot. Trace occurs quicker using the stick blender than mixing by hand with the wire whisk
9. After soap reaches trace combine additives - panthenol, colorants and essential oils to traced soap and mix thoroughly, dispersing them throughout the mixture. Add the essential oils last as some essential oils cause the soap to seize or become very thick and unmanageable.
9. Pour mixture into prepared lined mold. I usually use thick utility type plastic that is cut into manageable pieces, to line the mold. Alternatively, freezer paper maybe used as well as a kitchen garbage bag with the sides cut open so that it is flat. Cover mold with a lid (if it has one) or a piece of cardboard or a flat piece of lumber. Then insulate this with a blanket, by covering the top and sides with the blanket.
10. Leave covered soap in a safe place away from children or pets for 12-18 hours to saponify and set. After 18 hours, uncover and allow to sit in mold a couple more hours. If firm enough, unmold onto plastic, utility paper or a clean dishcloth. Don neoprene gloves and cut bars with a sturdy chef's knife or a soap cutter. Store soap on a platter or open box lined with absorbent paper and allow to cure for two to three weeks.
Alternatively, this recipe may be executed in the hot process method. First combine the oils and lye/water and at trace follow the instructions for hot process in the oven or on top of the stove soap.
Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.Bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
Here is a brief description of these ingredients:
Castor oil - Commonly used humectant in soaps and cosmetics. Too much castor oil produces a soap that is too soft. However, that can be counteracted by adding only 2-3% in soap or using palm oil and sodium lactate to harden the bar.
Panthenol - The provitamin of vitamin B5. It is used as a Humectant, moisturizer and emollient; readily binds to hair shaft, sealing in moisture and giving the appearance of shine.
Silk - produces a bar of soap with a wonderful silky feel. To find out more about using silk in soap see article Add Silk to Soap.
Antifungal and Antibaterial ingredients - some ingredients purported to have antibacterial properties are neem oil, pine tar, and certain essential oils. To find out more about neem and its wonderful properties in soap read Using Neem oil to Make Soap and to check out the wonderful properties in pine tar, read Pine Tar soap for Psoriasis.
This recipe is a simple one with a base of coconut oil and a generous amount of castor oil for its humectant properties. The cocoa butter makes this a hard bar of soap and brings a sugary sweetness to the refreshing spicy peppermint strong notes.
Ingredients:
Coconut Oil --------------16 oz.
Castor Oil----------------8 oz.
Cocoa Butter--------------8 oz.
Lye ----------------------4.81 oz.
Water---------------------10 oz.
Panthenol-----------------0.64 oz (1-2%)
Sodium Lactate------------0.64 oz.
-----------------------------------
Total Batch size = 32 oz.
Essential oil blend
Peppermint---------------- 1 part
Rosemary------------------ 1 part
Cloves-------------------- 2 part
Directions:
1. Open windows to allow fresh air to come into room.
2. Put on chemical mask. Use the mask when weighing the lye and while combining the lye with the water. Don gloves and protective goggles.
3. Get the two pitchers, one to weigh the lye and the other to weigh the water. Weigh water in one pitcher and weigh lye in the next. Add lye to the water and stir. Note: Never add the water to the lye or it may erupt into a volcano-like mass that spills everywhere.
3. Mix lye and water gently but thoroughly to dissolve the lye particles in the liquid. A whisk makes dispersing the lye in the water easy. Dissolve all the lye particles which sometimes stubbornly refuses to break up and may clump. It is important to stir gently enough so it does not splash everywhere.
4. After mixing lye and water, you will notice that the container is very hot; this is because the lye and water are involved in a chemical process that produces heat. The temperature is too hot to immediately combine the lye with the oils, so remove it from your primary soap making area and leave it somewhere to cool down a bit (100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit)- in an area that is inaccessible to children or pets.
5. Heat oils and melt any solid fats. The pot used should be large enough so that after adding the lye and water mixture, there is enough room to mix so that it does not easily splash out of the container.
6. Leave oils to cool to the same temperature as the lye 100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Check temperature with thermometer, wiping off to check the next liquid or use two different thermometers. After both liquids have reached the desired temperature, add lye/water liquid to the cooled oils.
7. Stir with the wire whisk briskly, or use a stick blender, which speeds up the whole process immensely. We are mixing to reach trace. Trace is the point when the mixture thickens, appears opaque and shiny and when the whisk or stick blender leaves an impression after it is stirred. This will look similar to a gravy or sauce of medium to thick consistency. It usually takes anywhere from 15 – 40 minutes of stirring to reach trace. If using the wire whisk, after mixing for 5 minutes or so, take a break of a couple minutes and continue stirring. I usually stir in between doing other things. After making soap several times, one learns to gauge how much time is actually needed to reach trace in a certain recipe. However, for the first time making soap, it is important to be vigilant and watch for discrete changes that occur in the mixture.
8. If using the stick blender, keep the blender blades immersed near the bottom of the pot stirring in a circular and figure eights. What we need is to make sure all of the mixture is stirred. It is especially important to have a pot that is deep enough with ample headroom when using the stick blender. The stick blender causes more turbulence in the mixture, therefore increasing the risk for accidental spillage. Turn the blender on after immersing it in the lye/oil mixture, so it does not splash out of the pot. Trace occurs quicker using the stick blender than mixing by hand with the wire whisk
9. After soap reaches trace combine additives - panthenol, colorants and essential oils to traced soap and mix thoroughly, dispersing them throughout the mixture. Add the essential oils last as some essential oils cause the soap to seize or become very thick and unmanageable.
9. Pour mixture into prepared lined mold. I usually use thick utility type plastic that is cut into manageable pieces, to line the mold. Alternatively, freezer paper maybe used as well as a kitchen garbage bag with the sides cut open so that it is flat. Cover mold with a lid (if it has one) or a piece of cardboard or a flat piece of lumber. Then insulate this with a blanket, by covering the top and sides with the blanket.
10. Leave covered soap in a safe place away from children or pets for 12-18 hours to saponify and set. After 18 hours, uncover and allow to sit in mold a couple more hours. If firm enough, unmold onto plastic, utility paper or a clean dishcloth. Don neoprene gloves and cut bars with a sturdy chef's knife or a soap cutter. Store soap on a platter or open box lined with absorbent paper and allow to cure for two to three weeks.
Alternatively, this recipe may be executed in the hot process method. First combine the oils and lye/water and at trace follow the instructions for hot process in the oven or on top of the stove soap.
Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.Bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Bath Gel Recipes: Aromatherapy Scent Ideas
If you are wondering how to scent your bath gel recipes with a special aromatherapy effects, you may want to read the following article entitled, Bath Gel Recipes: Aromatherapy Scent Ideas which appears on Essortment.com.
"In aromatherapy selected fragrant substances are used in lotions, shower gels, soaps, and inhalants. They can affect mood and promote good health. Some people like to try the different scents and concoctions all on their own and others rely on a qualified aromatherapy practitioner to do it for them. Essential oils are extracted from aromatic plants and are used in flavoring and in perfumes. Scents from essential oils have been known to calm, relieve sore muscles, and help a person to focus when life seems too stressful. They also help to build immune systems, give an extra boost of energy, and help to purify the body of chemical toxins.
Essential oils are highly concentrated liquids and should be treated in the same way that you would treat any medicine. Keep oils away from children at all times. Consult a physician or qualified aromatherapy practitioner if you have health concerns or if you are pregnant or nursing. Use the smallest dose possible until you know how it will affect your body. Never use undiluted essential oils directly on the skin. You should always test a small area of the skin and wait 24 hours to see if there will be any allergic reactions. Never take internally without a prescription. Essential oils are flammable; keep away from heat and flame. The best way to relax after a long, frustrating day at work or a hard day at the gym is to take a hot, steamy bath or shower. You can make your own shower or bath gel using essential oils to relax that stress away.
To make your own shower or bath gel, take 8 ounces of unscented shampoo and combine with 4 ounces of water in a bowl. Stir this until it is mixed well. Add ¾ of a teaspoon of salt and about 40 drops of essential oil. (This dose can be increased or decreased after a 24-hour skin test is performed.) Make sure that this is all mixed very well and there are no pockets of essential oil alone, which can cause skin irritations. Powdered loofah or jojoba beads can be added to the mixture to create an exfoliating scrub. This mixture can be stored in a squeeze bottle to store in the shower or bath area.
Different types of essential oils can be used for different types of skin. For dry skin, use Chamomile, Sandalwood, Carrot, Geranium, or Rose. For greasy skin, use Lavender, Orange, Neroli, Nutmeg, Cypress, Ylang Ylang, or Jasmine. For normal skin, any of the above may be used as well as Juniper berry, Frankincense, and Palma Rosa. If you have sensitive skin you might try Geranium and Lavender.
Different essential oils can also be used to concentrate on a certain part of the body. For eyes, use Lemon, Lavender, Fennel, Chamomile, or Palma Rosa. For hands, use any of the above as well as Geranium, Rose, or Eucalyptus. To relax feet and make them soft, use Rosemary, Chamomile, Lavender, Lemon, or Palma Rosa.
Each essential oil has its own characteristics. For example, Palma Rosa smells like rose and geranium oil and helps to relieve anger. Chamomile is deep blue in color and helps with inflamed or irritated skin. Lime has a sweeter scent than Lemon and is used for oily skin. Many of the essential oils can even be blended together for different effects or scents. Investigate the different uses and have fun trying each kind of essential oil. The quality of essential oils varies from company to company, so do your research and find what is best for you."
"In aromatherapy selected fragrant substances are used in lotions, shower gels, soaps, and inhalants. They can affect mood and promote good health. Some people like to try the different scents and concoctions all on their own and others rely on a qualified aromatherapy practitioner to do it for them. Essential oils are extracted from aromatic plants and are used in flavoring and in perfumes. Scents from essential oils have been known to calm, relieve sore muscles, and help a person to focus when life seems too stressful. They also help to build immune systems, give an extra boost of energy, and help to purify the body of chemical toxins.
Essential oils are highly concentrated liquids and should be treated in the same way that you would treat any medicine. Keep oils away from children at all times. Consult a physician or qualified aromatherapy practitioner if you have health concerns or if you are pregnant or nursing. Use the smallest dose possible until you know how it will affect your body. Never use undiluted essential oils directly on the skin. You should always test a small area of the skin and wait 24 hours to see if there will be any allergic reactions. Never take internally without a prescription. Essential oils are flammable; keep away from heat and flame. The best way to relax after a long, frustrating day at work or a hard day at the gym is to take a hot, steamy bath or shower. You can make your own shower or bath gel using essential oils to relax that stress away.
To make your own shower or bath gel, take 8 ounces of unscented shampoo and combine with 4 ounces of water in a bowl. Stir this until it is mixed well. Add ¾ of a teaspoon of salt and about 40 drops of essential oil. (This dose can be increased or decreased after a 24-hour skin test is performed.) Make sure that this is all mixed very well and there are no pockets of essential oil alone, which can cause skin irritations. Powdered loofah or jojoba beads can be added to the mixture to create an exfoliating scrub. This mixture can be stored in a squeeze bottle to store in the shower or bath area.
Different types of essential oils can be used for different types of skin. For dry skin, use Chamomile, Sandalwood, Carrot, Geranium, or Rose. For greasy skin, use Lavender, Orange, Neroli, Nutmeg, Cypress, Ylang Ylang, or Jasmine. For normal skin, any of the above may be used as well as Juniper berry, Frankincense, and Palma Rosa. If you have sensitive skin you might try Geranium and Lavender.
Different essential oils can also be used to concentrate on a certain part of the body. For eyes, use Lemon, Lavender, Fennel, Chamomile, or Palma Rosa. For hands, use any of the above as well as Geranium, Rose, or Eucalyptus. To relax feet and make them soft, use Rosemary, Chamomile, Lavender, Lemon, or Palma Rosa.
Each essential oil has its own characteristics. For example, Palma Rosa smells like rose and geranium oil and helps to relieve anger. Chamomile is deep blue in color and helps with inflamed or irritated skin. Lime has a sweeter scent than Lemon and is used for oily skin. Many of the essential oils can even be blended together for different effects or scents. Investigate the different uses and have fun trying each kind of essential oil. The quality of essential oils varies from company to company, so do your research and find what is best for you."
Friday, July 4, 2008
LOOFAH SOAP
(Submitted to Soap Wizards by Ela Heyn)
This is a great soap to use on your tired feet after a hard day at work! It's sooooo pretty, and the exfoliating action of the loofah does a great job of smoothing out calluses and rough spots on your feet. (It's probably a little too rough to use on faces and other delicate skin, though!)
MATERIALS:
• 1 Muffin pan
• 1 Loofah (make sure it's not so wide that the pieces won't fit inside the muffin pan cavities).
• Clear soap base (preferably molding base)
• Fragrance and colorant of your choice.
TECHNIQUE:
1. To begin, cut the loofah into slices that are thin enough to fit into your muffin pan cavities without extending past the top of the cavity. Put the slices into the cavities, and put tape or rubber bands lightly over the tops of the cavities to hold them there.
2. Prepare your soap base, color and scent it. Pour the soap base into the muffin pan cavities carefully. It should fill the loofah, and the loofah should remain neatly suspended in the middle of the clear soap base.
3. Let set up, then unmold, carefully pulling the rubber bands/tape away from the soaps before unmolding. Voila . . beautiful loofah slices suspended in a clear soap, ready to use!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.soapwizards.com/
This is a great soap to use on your tired feet after a hard day at work! It's sooooo pretty, and the exfoliating action of the loofah does a great job of smoothing out calluses and rough spots on your feet. (It's probably a little too rough to use on faces and other delicate skin, though!)
MATERIALS:
• 1 Muffin pan
• 1 Loofah (make sure it's not so wide that the pieces won't fit inside the muffin pan cavities).
• Clear soap base (preferably molding base)
• Fragrance and colorant of your choice.
TECHNIQUE:
1. To begin, cut the loofah into slices that are thin enough to fit into your muffin pan cavities without extending past the top of the cavity. Put the slices into the cavities, and put tape or rubber bands lightly over the tops of the cavities to hold them there.
2. Prepare your soap base, color and scent it. Pour the soap base into the muffin pan cavities carefully. It should fill the loofah, and the loofah should remain neatly suspended in the middle of the clear soap base.
3. Let set up, then unmold, carefully pulling the rubber bands/tape away from the soaps before unmolding. Voila . . beautiful loofah slices suspended in a clear soap, ready to use!
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.soapwizards.com/
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Essential Oil Room Air Freshener Spray Recipes
Ingredients
Basic
1 cup distilled water
8-10 drops essential oil essential oil of your choice
Deodorizing Room Spray
6 drops bergamot essential oil
1 drop eucalyptus essential oil
2 drops lemon essential oil
Pet Deodorizing Room Spray
6 drops cedarwood essential oil
3 drops tea tree oil
Apple Pie Spice Room Air Freshner
6 drops cinnamon essential oil
3 drops clove essential oil
Orange Spice Room Air Freshner
5 drops orange essential oil
2 drops cinnamon essential oil
Mood Lifter Air Freshner Spray
4 drops chamomile essential oil
3 drops orange essential oil
2 drops ylang ylang essential oil
Stress Reliever Air Freshner Spray
4 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops rose essential oil
2 drops clary sage essential (optional)
Sleepy-Hour Relaxation Air Freshner Spray
4 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops chamomile essential oil
Directions
-Basic: Pour the cup of distilled water into the spray bottle.
-Add the drops of essential oils and shake very well.
-Cap the bottle, and allow to sit for a few hours before using.
-Shake the bottle before each use to evenly distribute the scented oil throughout the water.
-Use the label to describe what sort of air freshener each bottle is.
-And be sure to use the fine mist setting on your bottle, so the spray will be distributed nicely in the air.
Here are some interesting ideas for wonderful air freshener sprays, but you can go ahead and create your own favorite blends using scents that you love the most!
-To use the following recipe, just add the recommended amounts of essential oil to the spray bottle with the distilled water, and follow the instructions as above.
-Please note that essential oils can vary in potency- for this reason, you can add or reduce the amounts of essential oil recommended in each recipe, if you find that the essential oil you've bought is either stronger or weaker than expected.
-Deodorizing Room Spray: Add to the distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist.
-Pet Deodorizing Room Spray: Add to the distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist. (If you have pets like I do, this spray is great for around the litter box, or just for freshening up the entire house!)
-Apple Pie Spice Room Air Freshner: Add to distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist.
-I love this one sprayed in the kitchen! Orange Spice Room Air Freshner: Add to distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist. Lovely spicy orange scent!
-Now, here are three blends made to change your mood for the better! It's been proven that with the effects of aromatherapy, just the way things smell can altar your mood.
Mood Lifter Air Freshner Spray: Follow directions as with other recipes above. This recipe will make you feel more light hearted, and less depressed.
Stress Reliever Air Freshner Spray: Follow directions as with other recipes above. This air freshener will help relieve stress, and it smells really wonderful!
Sleepy-Hour Relaxation Air Freshner Spray: Both of these essential oils have wonderful, sedative effects. Spray a little in your bedroom a half hour before going to bed, to enjoy the soothing effects of these natural sedatives. Or spray a little on your pillow or bedclothes to enjoy a whole night of wonderful, restorative sleep.
Source: http://www.recipezaar.com/92820
Basic
1 cup distilled water
8-10 drops essential oil essential oil of your choice
Deodorizing Room Spray
6 drops bergamot essential oil
1 drop eucalyptus essential oil
2 drops lemon essential oil
Pet Deodorizing Room Spray
6 drops cedarwood essential oil
3 drops tea tree oil
Apple Pie Spice Room Air Freshner
6 drops cinnamon essential oil
3 drops clove essential oil
Orange Spice Room Air Freshner
5 drops orange essential oil
2 drops cinnamon essential oil
Mood Lifter Air Freshner Spray
4 drops chamomile essential oil
3 drops orange essential oil
2 drops ylang ylang essential oil
Stress Reliever Air Freshner Spray
4 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops rose essential oil
2 drops clary sage essential (optional)
Sleepy-Hour Relaxation Air Freshner Spray
4 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops chamomile essential oil
Directions
-Basic: Pour the cup of distilled water into the spray bottle.
-Add the drops of essential oils and shake very well.
-Cap the bottle, and allow to sit for a few hours before using.
-Shake the bottle before each use to evenly distribute the scented oil throughout the water.
-Use the label to describe what sort of air freshener each bottle is.
-And be sure to use the fine mist setting on your bottle, so the spray will be distributed nicely in the air.
Here are some interesting ideas for wonderful air freshener sprays, but you can go ahead and create your own favorite blends using scents that you love the most!
-To use the following recipe, just add the recommended amounts of essential oil to the spray bottle with the distilled water, and follow the instructions as above.
-Please note that essential oils can vary in potency- for this reason, you can add or reduce the amounts of essential oil recommended in each recipe, if you find that the essential oil you've bought is either stronger or weaker than expected.
-Deodorizing Room Spray: Add to the distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist.
-Pet Deodorizing Room Spray: Add to the distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist. (If you have pets like I do, this spray is great for around the litter box, or just for freshening up the entire house!)
-Apple Pie Spice Room Air Freshner: Add to distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist.
-I love this one sprayed in the kitchen! Orange Spice Room Air Freshner: Add to distilled water in the spray bottle, shake well and spray as a fine mist. Lovely spicy orange scent!
-Now, here are three blends made to change your mood for the better! It's been proven that with the effects of aromatherapy, just the way things smell can altar your mood.
Mood Lifter Air Freshner Spray: Follow directions as with other recipes above. This recipe will make you feel more light hearted, and less depressed.
Stress Reliever Air Freshner Spray: Follow directions as with other recipes above. This air freshener will help relieve stress, and it smells really wonderful!
Sleepy-Hour Relaxation Air Freshner Spray: Both of these essential oils have wonderful, sedative effects. Spray a little in your bedroom a half hour before going to bed, to enjoy the soothing effects of these natural sedatives. Or spray a little on your pillow or bedclothes to enjoy a whole night of wonderful, restorative sleep.
Source: http://www.recipezaar.com/92820
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Making Beeswax Candles
Molded beeswax candles are a wonderful alternative to traditional pillars and votives. You can use virtually any three-dimensional object to create the rubber mold. For best results, keep the shape fairly simple, like these lovely finials created by Martha Stewart Living style editor Tom Tamborello.
Making a Candle Mold
Tools and Materials
Cordless drill
Square of wood
Wooden post-top finial
Shellac
Paint brush
Mold-release spray
3 plastic containers
Measuring cup
Mold-rubber compound
Rubber spatula
Utility knife
Candle Mold How-To
1. Drill a hole in the center of a square of wood, and secure finial to wood base.
2. Seal the exterior of the finial with a few coats of shellac. (You can skip this step if you are using a glass, metal, wrought-iron, or painted object.)
3. Spray finial with mold-release spray. Let dry for about 10 minutes; this will make it easier to remove the object from the rubber.
4. To determine the amount of rubber-mold compound you'll need, fill a plastic container slightly larger than the finial with water. Place the finial, top down, in the water (some of the water will be displaced, overflowing out of the container). Pour the remaining water into a measuring cup. This is the total amount of the compound that you will need.
5. Mix mold-rubber compound according to instructions. Mix compound thoroughly with rubber spatula. Pour into plastic container.
6. Place finial in rubber compound, leaving the bottom 1/8 inch of the base uncovered. Make sure that it is centered and not touching the sides. Let the mold set for 16 hours.
7. To remove the mold from the container, poke a hole in the bottom of the container. Pull mold from plastic container.
8. Using a utility knife, make incisions on both sides of the mold from top to bottom. Pull rubber away, and remove finial.
Making Beeswax Candles
Tools and Materials
Beeswax
Double boiler
Candy thermometer
Candle wick
Awl
Thin wire
Plastic container
Coffee stirrers
Clothespin
Beeswax Candle How-To
1. Melt beeswax in a double boiler on high heat. Monitor the temperature with a candy thermometer; it should remain below 200 degrees. Because heated wax can ignite, never leave it unattended, and lower the heat immediately if you smell the wax burning or if it starts to smoke. Two to three pounds of wax may take an hour or more to melt.
2. Prepare the wick by cutting a length of wicking appropriate to your candle size (instructions usually come with the wicking). Dip wick into melted wax to prime it.
3. Using an awl, poke a hole in the center of the bottom of the mold (the top of the candle). Hook the wick through a bent piece of wire. Push the wire and wick through the hole in the mold. Leave at least 1/2 inch of wick at the bottom of the mold.
4. Place mold in plastic container so the sides stay together. Pour melted wax into mold. Center the wick in the wax, and put two coffee stirrers on either side of the wick resting on the rim of the mold; clip stirrers together with a clothespin. Let wax cool and harden completely, about 2 hours, depending on the size of the candle.
5. Remove the rubber mold from the plastic container. If you're having trouble, gently roll the container on its side, pressing lightly to help release the mold. Remove the candle from the mold. Trim wick, and smooth bottom of candle with an iron or a hot metal spatula.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/portal/site/mslo/menuitem.3a0656639de62ad593598e10d373a0a0/?vgnextoid=0606b8d7b242f010VgnVCM1000003d370a0aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default
Making a Candle Mold
Tools and Materials
Cordless drill
Square of wood
Wooden post-top finial
Shellac
Paint brush
Mold-release spray
3 plastic containers
Measuring cup
Mold-rubber compound
Rubber spatula
Utility knife
Candle Mold How-To
1. Drill a hole in the center of a square of wood, and secure finial to wood base.
2. Seal the exterior of the finial with a few coats of shellac. (You can skip this step if you are using a glass, metal, wrought-iron, or painted object.)
3. Spray finial with mold-release spray. Let dry for about 10 minutes; this will make it easier to remove the object from the rubber.
4. To determine the amount of rubber-mold compound you'll need, fill a plastic container slightly larger than the finial with water. Place the finial, top down, in the water (some of the water will be displaced, overflowing out of the container). Pour the remaining water into a measuring cup. This is the total amount of the compound that you will need.
5. Mix mold-rubber compound according to instructions. Mix compound thoroughly with rubber spatula. Pour into plastic container.
6. Place finial in rubber compound, leaving the bottom 1/8 inch of the base uncovered. Make sure that it is centered and not touching the sides. Let the mold set for 16 hours.
7. To remove the mold from the container, poke a hole in the bottom of the container. Pull mold from plastic container.
8. Using a utility knife, make incisions on both sides of the mold from top to bottom. Pull rubber away, and remove finial.
Making Beeswax Candles
Tools and Materials
Beeswax
Double boiler
Candy thermometer
Candle wick
Awl
Thin wire
Plastic container
Coffee stirrers
Clothespin
Beeswax Candle How-To
1. Melt beeswax in a double boiler on high heat. Monitor the temperature with a candy thermometer; it should remain below 200 degrees. Because heated wax can ignite, never leave it unattended, and lower the heat immediately if you smell the wax burning or if it starts to smoke. Two to three pounds of wax may take an hour or more to melt.
2. Prepare the wick by cutting a length of wicking appropriate to your candle size (instructions usually come with the wicking). Dip wick into melted wax to prime it.
3. Using an awl, poke a hole in the center of the bottom of the mold (the top of the candle). Hook the wick through a bent piece of wire. Push the wire and wick through the hole in the mold. Leave at least 1/2 inch of wick at the bottom of the mold.
4. Place mold in plastic container so the sides stay together. Pour melted wax into mold. Center the wick in the wax, and put two coffee stirrers on either side of the wick resting on the rim of the mold; clip stirrers together with a clothespin. Let wax cool and harden completely, about 2 hours, depending on the size of the candle.
5. Remove the rubber mold from the plastic container. If you're having trouble, gently roll the container on its side, pressing lightly to help release the mold. Remove the candle from the mold. Trim wick, and smooth bottom of candle with an iron or a hot metal spatula.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/portal/site/mslo/menuitem.3a0656639de62ad593598e10d373a0a0/?vgnextoid=0606b8d7b242f010VgnVCM1000003d370a0aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default
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