If you are interesting in learning how to make your own liquid soap, here are a few links to help you out:
Making Liquid Soap
Make Liquid Soap by David Fisher
Liquid Soap Dilution Table
Here are some recipes:
All-Natural, No-Alcohol Liquid Soap Recipes
History of Soaps
The History of Soaps and Detergents
If you know of any other articles that I could add to this list about this subject, please let me know. I would really appreciate it.
Showing posts with label Article - Liquid Soap. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Article - Liquid Soap. Show all posts
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Sunday, March 16, 2008
How to make hot process liquid soap
**For those who have taken my Handmade Bath Products and made the bath jelly, here is how to make your own liquid soap if you do not want to use the clear, unscented liquid soap from Whole Foods. If you chose not to make your own soap check out www.yaley.com and search for clear liquid soap.
This is a basic recipe for liquid soap. Although it may appear very involved, it is quite easy. If you would like a recipe using different oils, check out the lye calculator that Magestic Mountain Sage has on their website. The water may seem a bit much but it is okay since much of the water will boil out in the cook.
Ingredients
* 23 oz coconut oil
* 25 oz of olive oil
* 10.15 oz potassium hydroxide (KOH not lye)
* 30-36 ounces distilled water
* 3 ounces borax (supermarket mule train brand)
* Alcohol in spray bottle. (I usually use gin or isopropyl alcohol)
Tools Needed:
* Large double boiler (stainless steel- will not react with lye)
* Stick blender
* Candy or meat thermometer
1. Don protective equipment, including eye goggles or eye shield and nerile gloves. To review equipment needed see article Equipment used to make cold process and hot process soaps.
2. Combine lye and water. Be careful that mixture does not splash. Potassium hydroxide is more caustic than lye.
3. Cool to about 140 Degrees Fahrenheit.
4. Heat your oils to 140-160 and combine. Use a stick blender and mix until traced. If stirring makes it foamy then spray with alcohol to keep down the foam. The alcohol evaporates so there is no danger that it will become part of the final product.
5. Heat water in the double broiler, then turn it down to simmer.
6. Place pot of traced soap into simmering water and cover. It takes about 3-4 hours to cook, so you need to check it ever so often to stir and make sure it is not boiling over.
7. As the soap cooks it gets thicker and clearer until it becomes like clear gooey play doh.
8. About 3 hours into boil check to see how far along the mixture is by dissolving a small amount in boiling water to see if it is clear. Cool the test mixture and if clear, take the soap off the stove because it is done.
9. Add half a gallon of distilled water and heat to boiling in the outer boiler or another large pot - If you want the liquid soap to be really thick, then add less. Add the goopey soap paste to the distilled water and simmer for a while until the paste dissolves.
10. You will need a large wisk or stick blender to help break up the clumps, and at the same time, spray with some of that alcohol to keep down the foam.
11. Try to work out all the clumps, take a break every now and then and get back to the mix and work out those lumps.
12. In a separate bowl add 3 ounces of borax to a couple ounces of boiling water and mix well. The borax adjusts the PH of the mixture and thickens the soap a bit. Add to soap mixture.
13. Pour the finished soap into large buckets or gallon containers. It will thicken a bit after cooling. If it is too thick, add distilled water after it cools.
14. Leave the soap alone for a couple days to finish curing.
15. Fragrances, essential oils and exfoliants may be added once it is cooled and cured.
Source: Reprinted with permission from Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.Bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
This is a basic recipe for liquid soap. Although it may appear very involved, it is quite easy. If you would like a recipe using different oils, check out the lye calculator that Magestic Mountain Sage has on their website. The water may seem a bit much but it is okay since much of the water will boil out in the cook.
Ingredients
* 23 oz coconut oil
* 25 oz of olive oil
* 10.15 oz potassium hydroxide (KOH not lye)
* 30-36 ounces distilled water
* 3 ounces borax (supermarket mule train brand)
* Alcohol in spray bottle. (I usually use gin or isopropyl alcohol)
Tools Needed:
* Large double boiler (stainless steel- will not react with lye)
* Stick blender
* Candy or meat thermometer
1. Don protective equipment, including eye goggles or eye shield and nerile gloves. To review equipment needed see article Equipment used to make cold process and hot process soaps.
2. Combine lye and water. Be careful that mixture does not splash. Potassium hydroxide is more caustic than lye.
3. Cool to about 140 Degrees Fahrenheit.
4. Heat your oils to 140-160 and combine. Use a stick blender and mix until traced. If stirring makes it foamy then spray with alcohol to keep down the foam. The alcohol evaporates so there is no danger that it will become part of the final product.
5. Heat water in the double broiler, then turn it down to simmer.
6. Place pot of traced soap into simmering water and cover. It takes about 3-4 hours to cook, so you need to check it ever so often to stir and make sure it is not boiling over.
7. As the soap cooks it gets thicker and clearer until it becomes like clear gooey play doh.
8. About 3 hours into boil check to see how far along the mixture is by dissolving a small amount in boiling water to see if it is clear. Cool the test mixture and if clear, take the soap off the stove because it is done.
9. Add half a gallon of distilled water and heat to boiling in the outer boiler or another large pot - If you want the liquid soap to be really thick, then add less. Add the goopey soap paste to the distilled water and simmer for a while until the paste dissolves.
10. You will need a large wisk or stick blender to help break up the clumps, and at the same time, spray with some of that alcohol to keep down the foam.
11. Try to work out all the clumps, take a break every now and then and get back to the mix and work out those lumps.
12. In a separate bowl add 3 ounces of borax to a couple ounces of boiling water and mix well. The borax adjusts the PH of the mixture and thickens the soap a bit. Add to soap mixture.
13. Pour the finished soap into large buckets or gallon containers. It will thicken a bit after cooling. If it is too thick, add distilled water after it cools.
14. Leave the soap alone for a couple days to finish curing.
15. Fragrances, essential oils and exfoliants may be added once it is cooled and cured.
Source: Reprinted with permission from Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.Bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Guide to Making Liquid Soap
Making homemade liquid soap is a worthwhile project with the advantage of being able to use the soap right away after you are finished making it, unlike other types of soap that need to harden or be cured first.
The method of making homemade liquid soap is known as the hot process. As you might have guessed, there is also a cold process but this method is for making regular soap. Another soap-making method is ‘melt-and-pour', which is used for making glycerin soap. All of these soap-making techniques involve saponification, which is simply the reaction of a chemical when combined with a fat to form soap.
Saponification happens much faster in the hot process than in the cold process of soap-making. Another major difference between the two processes is the chemical used. Potassium hydroxide is required for the hot process while the cold process calls for sodium hydroxide. It is precisely because of the chemical potassium hydroxide that commercial and homemade liquid soap stay liquid and never solidify like regular bars of soap. You can get potassium hydroxide from many vendors of soap supplies.
Aside from this chemical, you would also need the following to make homemade liquid soap: double boiler pot (stainless steel), 5-gallon sized bucket with a lid and pour spout, towels, a stick hand blender, a nylon spoon, measuring bowls (stainless steel, plastic or glass), funnel, scale, measuring cups, goggles, rubber gloves, and protective clothes.
You can find different recipes for homemade liquid soap from a number of websites. It will depend on the recipe you choose how you should proceed with the actual soap-making because the instructions would differ slightly with each recipe. Here are the basic steps in making homemade liquid soap:
1.) Pour distilled water into the boiler pot.
2.) Add potassium hydroxide.
3.) Using a towel, insulate the boiler pot because the mixture can get extremely hot.
4.) Set the mixture aside to boil.
5.) Take the oils. Heat to about 120 degrees.
6.) Make sure the oil and water mixtures are the same temperature, and then add the oil to the water.
7.) Use the stick hand blender to mix oil and water for about two minutes.
8.) Set aside for five minutes and repeat the process.
9.) Set aside for ten minutes and repeat the process until trace happens, which is when the soap thickens and droplets stand up for a second on the surface.
10.) Put the pot of soap on top of the boiler and fill the bottom pot with water the same level as the soap mixture.
11.) Let the water boil, stirring the soap thoroughly every fifteen minutes or so and less often after thirty minutes. The soap will take anywhere from 4 up to 8 hours to cook.
Source: http://www.linkroll.com/soap/guide-to-making-homemade-liquid-soap.php
The method of making homemade liquid soap is known as the hot process. As you might have guessed, there is also a cold process but this method is for making regular soap. Another soap-making method is ‘melt-and-pour', which is used for making glycerin soap. All of these soap-making techniques involve saponification, which is simply the reaction of a chemical when combined with a fat to form soap.
Saponification happens much faster in the hot process than in the cold process of soap-making. Another major difference between the two processes is the chemical used. Potassium hydroxide is required for the hot process while the cold process calls for sodium hydroxide. It is precisely because of the chemical potassium hydroxide that commercial and homemade liquid soap stay liquid and never solidify like regular bars of soap. You can get potassium hydroxide from many vendors of soap supplies.
Aside from this chemical, you would also need the following to make homemade liquid soap: double boiler pot (stainless steel), 5-gallon sized bucket with a lid and pour spout, towels, a stick hand blender, a nylon spoon, measuring bowls (stainless steel, plastic or glass), funnel, scale, measuring cups, goggles, rubber gloves, and protective clothes.
You can find different recipes for homemade liquid soap from a number of websites. It will depend on the recipe you choose how you should proceed with the actual soap-making because the instructions would differ slightly with each recipe. Here are the basic steps in making homemade liquid soap:
1.) Pour distilled water into the boiler pot.
2.) Add potassium hydroxide.
3.) Using a towel, insulate the boiler pot because the mixture can get extremely hot.
4.) Set the mixture aside to boil.
5.) Take the oils. Heat to about 120 degrees.
6.) Make sure the oil and water mixtures are the same temperature, and then add the oil to the water.
7.) Use the stick hand blender to mix oil and water for about two minutes.
8.) Set aside for five minutes and repeat the process.
9.) Set aside for ten minutes and repeat the process until trace happens, which is when the soap thickens and droplets stand up for a second on the surface.
10.) Put the pot of soap on top of the boiler and fill the bottom pot with water the same level as the soap mixture.
11.) Let the water boil, stirring the soap thoroughly every fifteen minutes or so and less often after thirty minutes. The soap will take anywhere from 4 up to 8 hours to cook.
Source: http://www.linkroll.com/soap/guide-to-making-homemade-liquid-soap.php
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