Cosmetic Definitions/Preservatives & More

Germaben II - is a liquid preservative system with the following composition:

Diazolidinyl urea - 30%

Methylparaben - 11%

Propylparaben - 3%

Propylene Glycol - 56%

Germaben II is a clear viscous liquid with a characteristic mild odor. It is readily soluble at a level of 1.0% in both aqueous solutions and oil/water emulsions. Germaben II is a convenient, ready to-use complete antimicrobial preservative system with a broad spectrum of activity. The solubilized combination of Germall II with methylparaben and propylparaben is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and against yeast and mold. Germaben II can be used without additional co-preservatives and is compatible with essentially all cosmetic ingredients, including surfactants and proteins.

Germall Plus - One of the newer preservatives, Germall Plus Liquid is water soluble and works wonderfully with virtually all Oil and Water emulsions. This preservative is highly effective in inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeasts, fungus and molds even at very low concentrations, making it extremely cost effective. Usual recommended use level: 0.1%-0.5% of total formulation weight. Add to finished formulation at temps of 122F and lower. INCI : Propylene Glycol & Diazolidinyl Urea & Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

Glycolic Acid - This is the most commonly used form of alpha hydroxy acid. It can be used in both low and high strength. Lower strength glycolic acids are used in many over-the-counter skin care products, whereas office lunchtime peels can be a stronger version applied at either a dermatologist ‘s or a plastic surgeon’s office. Some salons are also applying a stronger version of glycolic acid. Glycolic acid application can be an important adjunct in maintaining a youthful skin care regimen.

Hyaluronic Acid - This is a natural protein found in multiple body secretions. It is used as a cosmetic topically. It also helps reduce swelling because it absorbs moisture.

Imidazolidinyl Urea - Imidazolidinyl urea a preservative in aqueous solutions decompose to formaldehyde and some unidentified products. The release of formaldehyde from imidazolidinyl urea is dependent on temperature, pH and storage period of the solution.

Kojic Acid - This is a form of bleaching agent which is rather effective at reducing pigmentation irregularities. Please refer to hydroquinone for discussion of pigmentation agents.

LiquaPar PE - is a 100% active, clear, stable, liquid blend of isopropyl, isobutyl, and n-butyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid with phenoxyethanol. This combination of parabens and phenoxyethanol is effective against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeast, and mold providing broad spectrum activity for worldwide formulations. The potentiator effect of phenoxyethanol facilitates use of the LiquaPar Oil technology in nonionic emulsion systems where paraben efficacy might otherwise be compromised. All LiquaPar PE components are approved for worldwide use thus allowing sale of the same finished formulation in Japan, Europe, Australia and the United States. LiquaPar PE is an active blend of parabens and phenoxyethanol useful in a wide range of cosmetic formulations including anhydrous systems. The potentiating effect of phenoxyethanol combined with the highly effective paraben blend provides an effective preservative system for even difficult to preserve nonionic emulsions. In most systems LiquaPar PE should be incorporated at a concentration of 1.0% by weight of the finished formulation.

Magnesium Sulfate USP - (Epsom Salts) A soaking aid for minor sprains, muscle aches and bruises. A water softener and bath additive.

Methyl Paraben - (Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate) Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate comes from the combination of denatured wood alcohol and benzoic acid. Benzoic acid occurs naturally in cherry bark, raspberries, tea, anise and cassia bark. It is neutral, nontoxic, safe to use, nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It is one of the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics since it is stable at most pH levels, is broad spectrum and water soluble.

Optiphen - is a unique liquid preservative formulation that consists of phenoxyethanol and an emollient base. The primary active ingredient is 2-phenoxyethanol, which is an aromatic ether alcohol often utilized for preservation of personal care products. The secondary ingredient, caprylyl glycol, also known as 1,2-octanediol, functions as the emollient base. Optiphen is a clear liquid-preservative that can be easily added directly to the formulation during pre- or post-emulsification at or below 80°C. There are no pH restrictions in formulating with Optiphen. Optiphen is compatible with most ingredients used in the personal care industry.

Polysorbate 20 - (Emulsifier) Widely used emulsifier, a vicious oily liquid derived from lauric acid. Lauric acid is a common constituent of coconut oil. Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant, meaning it has no electrical charge. A surfactant is a wetting (surface active) agent that lowers the water surface tension permitting it to penetrate more easily.

Propylene Glycol - Often derived from lactic acid, glucose, or seaweed. The most common moisture carrying ingredient other than water used in cosmetics because it moisturizes better than glycerin. Is used as a wetting agent and surfactant which gives a product better absorption and promotes spreading of the product on the skin. Originally derived from brown algae and since mixed with a few other goodies, the chemical has been used for almost a century in one form or another. Propylene Glycol is an emollient. Not to be confused with Ethyl Glycol which is used in anti-freeze and other chemical based products. It can penetrate the outermost layer of the skin cells and carry other beneficial products deeper into the epidermis. According to the AMA's committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

Sodium Cocoate Sodium salts compounded with coconut fatty oils.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a broad spectrum antimicrobial that is active against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeast and mold. It is used at extremely low concentrations between .1% to 1% at the most. It is active at all alkaline pH levels as well as acidic conditions. It acts for both preservation and neutralization, which means it can be used in place of TEA (triethanolamine) or sodium hydroxide. It is synergistic with other preservatives. There are no ingredients used in cosmetics that render sodium hydroxymethylglycinate non-effective. Sodium hydroxymethylgycinate is derived from glycine, which is a naturally occurring amino acid. Traditionally glycine was used a texturizer in cosmetics. It is an amino acid classified as nonessential. Glycine is made up of sweet-tasting crystals, it is used as a dietary supplement and as a gastric antacid. Amino Acids are widely used in cosmetics because they help penetrate the skin. This preservative can react with certain essential oils, specifically citrus and mint oriented. The reaction can cause your product base to change colors, but does not effect the effacacy of the preservative. Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate in aqueous solution decomposes to sodium glycinate and formaldehyde. Glycine is an essential amino acid, and does not appear to be harmful. So, the regulation of sodium hydroxymethylglycinate as total formaldehyde should not give any additional safety problem to consumers, as long as the maximum authorized concentration of this compound is maintained. (SCCNFP/587/02)

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is the sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl alcohol. Which means salt of sulfuric acid has been added to the crystalline compound produced from coconut in order to control the acid-alkali balance; and ethyl and oxygen are mixed and added to make it more soluble in water. There has been a huge scare centered on the use of SLS and SLES, which stems from the incorrect reporting by Neways Web sites of a study done at the Medical College of Georgia by Dr. Keith Green. He states that he was not only misquoted but also the majority of the misinformation is completely false. Also, the American Cancer Society has stated that SLS and SLES do not cause cancer. They have searched all the recognized medical journals and have found no articles linking cancer and SLS or SLES. Please see the CIR Expert Panels findings on SLS here. CIR Link

Sodium Stearate - A compound of 92.82% stearic acid with sodium salts. Stearic acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in butter acids, tallow and oils.

Sorbitol - This is a humectant and gives a smooth feel to the skin. Currently it is used instead of glycerin in many ointments.

Soyamidopropyl Betaine - A soybean oil, alcohol and betaine compound. Betaine is complicated organic detergents that occur naturally in sugar beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam boaster and conditioner. Soybean is extracted from the seeds of soybeans. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.

SPF - Sun protection factor is the acronym used to depict how much sun protection is offered by a sunscreen. Specifically a sun block only measures the amount of sun protection that can be caused from ultraviolet B rays and not ultraviolet A rays. Both UVA and UVB rays can lead to photo aging and skin cancers. Typically an SPF of 15 or 30 is recommended. The use of sun blocking agents with the addition of titanium or zinc oxide is extremely helpful in reducing all exposure to the sun’s rays.

Stearalkonium Chloride - This quartenary ammonium compound adds shine to hair and improves the ability to comb through hair. A complex cationic conditioning ingredient which demonstrates a natural affinity for fibrous protein and forms a protective coating on the cuticle of the hair. Retards hair tangling and enhances wet comb-out properties and overall manageability.

Stearic Acid (Palm Stearic) - A vegetable derivative used to stiffen and stabilize lotions and creams. Occurs naturally in vegetable fats. A white, waxy, natural fatty acid.

Sunscreens - The active ingredients for most sunscreens are one of the following: PABA and PABA esters, Benzophenones, Cinnamates, Salicylates, and Anthranilate. These products are useful in the prevention of sunburns as well as in reducing the long term damage that sun exposure can cause with its concomitant skin cancer and wrinkle producing properties. Most sunscreens do an excellent job of absorbing UVB rays, but do not do as good a job with UVA rays. Many of the newer sunscreens will screen out both UVA and UVB. A combination agent which contains zinc oxide is the best. Sunscreens come with a number called the sun protection factor, or SPF. Recommendations in the 15 to 30 range are ideal. If a sunscreen has a label of a 15 SPF, then with its use over a 15-hour period, the skin will have absorbed only 1 hour’s worth of ultraviolet light. Other agents which block the sun include zinc oxide, titanium oxide, magnesium silicate, kalin, ferric oxide, red petrolatum, and magnesium oxide. Sunscreen is particularly important in children, as 85% of all sun exposure occurs before the age of 18.

Source: http://www.asianwhiteskin.com/otheringredients.html