How do I modify a recipe when I add or remove an ingredient?

Have you ever thought of adding or removing an ingredient from a recipe? In a recent posting on Point of Interest called  How do I modify a recipe when I add or remove an ingredient? discuss this very topic and uses a sample hand lotion recipe. So if you are interested in learning about this, then read this informative post.

What is Mineral Oil?

Since I have been taking classes on how to make my own handcrafted body products, I am learning more and more about ingredients in products.  One of them has to be mineral oil. You may have heard of mineral oil, but you do know what it is? The best way I can explain it is from an article titled What is Mineral Oil?  I found on Wisegeek.com:

"Mineral oil is one of a number of inexpensive byproducts that are made from petroleum. Sometimes referred to as paraffin oil or Nujol, white mineral oil is composed of a blend of hydrocarbons that is not unlike that of petroleum jelly. The difference is that mineral oil is a liquid petrolatum, making it an ideal choice for a number of applications. Here are some of the more common uses for mineral oil around the home.

Perhaps the single most common use for white mineral oil is to remove makeup at the end of the day. Mineral oil has the ability to cut through the minute amounts of grease and dirt that tend to cling to makeup over the course of the day, making it possible to strip off the layer of makeup easy and prepare the face for cleansing. Along with removing makeup from the face, mineral oil is often used as a beauty treatment, as it is an excellent amplifier that helps the body to absorb ultraviolet rays without drying out the skin. While not everyone is aware, baby oil is simply mineral oil that has been enhanced with a small amount of fragrance.

Mineral oil is also good for use in the kitchen as well. Butcher-block surfaces can be conditioned with the substance from time to time. Treatments of mineral oil help the wood to stay supple, and also help to soften the appearance of nicks and cuts that are made during regular use of the block. Soapstone countertops can also benefit from an application of mineral oil from time to time. The properties of the oil help to keep the surface looking new, even if the countertop has been in place for ten years or more.

Clay is another medium that can benefit from the application of mineral oil from time to time. For example, treating new clay pots with mineral oil will help to age the look of the pot. This is often desirable with decorating schemes that tend toward old country or shabby chic motifs. Clay poker chips can also be aged with the application of a little mineral oil, helping them to look well loved and used.

Mineral oil is a very inexpensive item to keep around the house. With so many different types of uses, having a bottle of mineral oil in the cupboard is an excellent idea. Whether for personal hygiene or maintaining the look and condition of selected items around the home, mineral oil is a great option."

So there are many options of using mineral oil besides in body products, but since it is petroleum byproduct, one will choose to stay away from it.  It is up to you whether or not you want to use it. Nowadays people are becoming more aware of these ingredients and trying to go more natural and eliminate these types of ingredients in their lives.

What is Xanthan Gum?

I have seen or heard of  xanthan gum being listed as an ingredient on some of our everyday products.  I may have recalled seeing this ingredient listed as an ingredient in one of an outdated natural beauty recipe books I had purchased on Amazon.com.  So what is xanthan gum?  According to wisegeek.com:

"Despite its rather alien-sounding name, xanthan gum is as natural as any other fermented corn sugar polysaccharide you can name. Corn syrup, anyone?

Seriously, xanthan gum derives its name from the strain of bacteria used during the fermentation process, Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthomonas campestris is the same bacteria responsible for causing black rot to form on broccoli, cauliflower and other leafy vegetables. The bacteria form a slimy substance which acts as a natural stabilizer or thickener. The United States Department of Agriculture ran a number of experiments involving bacteria and various sugars to develop a new thickening agent similar to corn starch or guar gum. When Xanthomonas campestris was combined with corn sugar, the result was a colorless slime called xanthan gum.

Xanthan gum is considered a polysaccharide in scientific circles, because it is a long chain of three different forms of sugar. What's important to know is that all three of these natural sugars are present in corn sugar, a derivative of the more familiar corn syrup. The Xanthomonas campestris bacteria literally eat a supply of this corn sugar under controlled conditions, and the digestion process converts the individual sugars into a single substance with properties similar to cornstarch. Xanthan gum is used in dairy products and salad dressings as a thickening agent and stabilizer. Xanthan gum prevents ice crystals from forming in ice creams, and also provides a 'fat feel' in low or no-fat dairy products.

Another use for xanthan gum is the stabilization and binding of cosmetic products. One advantage of xanthan gum is that a little goes an incredibly long way. Cosmetic manufacturers add a very small amount of xanthan gum to their cream-based products in order to keep the individual ingredients from separating. Despite the use of bacteria during processing, xanthan gum itself is not generally harmful to human skin or digestive systems, though some individuals may find they are allergic to it. Xanthan gum is often used whenever a gel-like quality is sought.

Xanthan gum is also used as a substitute for wheat gluten in gluten-free breads, pastas and other flour-based food products. Those who suffer from gluten allergies should look for xanthan gum as an ingredient on the label.

One lesser-known use of xanthan gum is in the oil industry. Oil companies often use water as a lubricant for oil well pumps, but regular water is not very thick. A natural thickener such as guar gum or xanthan gum can be added to the water in order to increase its viscosity, or thickness. You could think of this as turning tap water into 10W-40 motor oil. The thickened water keeps the drill parts lubricated and displaces more of the natural oil found in the deposit area."

Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-xanthan-gum.htm

What is Cyclomethicone?

Definition: Cyclomethicone is a clear, odorless, silicone-based oil that is incredibly useful and versatile in a number of bath & body recipes. It is a synthetic unmodified silicone that stays on the surface of the skin - the molecules are too big to physically enter past the upper living cells. It doesn't really have any "healing" or "moisturizing" qualities in and of itself - think of it more as a "carrier." Because it evaporates relatively quickly, it is most commonly used to carry fragrance or essential oils in linen sprays, body sprays, and roll-on "dry" perfumes. It also is used in lotions to impart a slick, silky feel - and is widely used in hair treatments.

There are many different varieties and grades of cyclomethicone. Be sure that you get it from a reliable bath and body supplier. Different grades also vary in their flashpoint. The lower the flashpoint, the quicker it will evaporate. But if you are going to be shipping or mailing the product, you need to be sure the flashpoint is at least 170 degrees. Several suppliers carry "Cyclomethicone NF" which is the premium grade.

Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapglossary/g/cyclomethicone.htm

What is Panthenol?

Panthenol is a non-irriating form of Vitamin B that is usually derived from plants. When this natural, hydrating vitamin is applied externally, it penetrates into lower skin layers, gets absorbed into your skin cells and turns into pantothenic acid (commonly known as Vitamin B5). Because panthenol is absorbed deeply into the skin, it adds essential moisture and has a desirable plumping effect.

Panthenol, with its humectant-like properties, penetrates into layers beneath the surface of your skin so it can be used to treat a myriad of minor skin disorders and irritations. This natural substance is safe to use on your skin and can even be administered internally. In 1984, panthenol was included in the list of over the counter drugs published by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In 1987, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) concluded that panthenol was safe to use in cosmetics as a humectant, emollient and moisturizer.

Over the past twenty years, panthenol has been effectively used to treat sunburns, irritations, dryness and other minor skin disorders. This non-toxic vitamin has incredible absorption properties and helps to diminish wrinkles by infusing moisture into the deeper layers of your skin. In 1995, a study conducted by LH Leung also suggested panthenol as an alternative treatment for acne because it counteracts bacteria. Panthenol can be found in a variety of skin care products developed to treat dry, normal, combination and acne-prone skin.

Using panthenol in your skin will help to keep it smooth by helping to maintain its natural moisture balance and counteracting surface bacteria. Panthenol reduces inflammation, soothes irritation and initiates the rebuilding of your skin. The healing properties of this vitamin have also been proven to be beneficial for stronger hair and nails.

The regular use of moisturizers, toners, shampoos and conditioners that include panthenol naturally ensure a softer, more attractive appearance everyday.

Lastly, for healthy skin make sure you're getting enough essential fatty acids in your diet. The easy way to do this is by taking a supplement such as Hypercet Omega 3-6-9 In just one softgel, you're getting a wide spectrum of essential fatty acids that are good for your skin.

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/?Panthenol-and-Your-Skin---What-You-Need-to-Know&id=447783

Anti Aging Carrier Oils

For those ladies from my lotions and creams class interested in anti-aging ingredients for their formulations I am providing a list of carrier oils and botantical extracts to add. Here is a list of anti aging carrier oils you can use in your lotions:

Acai, almond, apricot, avocado, borage, evening primrose, cameilla, carrot root, cranberry seed, Foraba (aka tamanu), jojoba, kukui, macadamia nut, meadowfoam seed, peach kernel, palm kernel, pumpkin seed, pomegrante, raspberry seed, rice bran, seabuckthorn, seasme.

Also you can add botanical extracts such as Cranberry, Green Tea (which is also good for wrinkles), Elder Flower, Gingko Biloba leaf, Ginseeng Root, Grape, Kelp, Olive leaf, Rooibos Tea, White Tea,White Willow Bark. (Note: Normally you would use these in the water phase of any formulation. It would be .5% to 5 % depending on your formula.) You can get these extracts from online from Essential Wholesale.

You can add microfine titanium dioxide or zinc oxide for sunscreen protection. But you will not not know the extact amount of protection. If you want to add titanium dioxide you would add 5-10% and for zinc oxide it would be 1-5% of your formulation.

Alpha Hydroxyl Acids

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are also known as the fruit acids. These acids are derived from various fruits and milk sugars. Alpha hydroxyl acids is a general name for a number of carboxylic acids found in these fruits.

AHA are either naturally occurring or synthetic. AHAs are well-known for their use in the cosmetics industry. They are often found in products claiming to reduce wrinkles or the signs of aging, and improve the overall look and feel of the skin.

AHA are also used as chemical peels in various concentration. Their effectiveness is documented. For more than a 1000 years, these fruit acids have been used to treat a number of skin disorders and lately have been claimed to improve facial rejuvenation.

It is recorded in the Egyptian papyrus archives that Cleopatra was an avid fan of these acids and frequently bathed in a mixture of the acids and sour milk.

In Europe, the French and the Austrian woman have been known to use topical application of these acids for rejuvenating their face.

Today there are many cosmetic creams which contain some type of AHA and these creams are generally sold to improve facial appearance. Almost all of the creams claim that the skin will become soft, smoother and have a fresh looking appearance.

Depending on the concentration, some have been shown to be effective as peeling agents and for facial rejuvenation.

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the α-hydroxy acids most frequently used in cosmetics, although there are many others used in combination.

Glycolic acid is the most widely used of out of the group and is usually manufactured from sugar cane. It is fairly well known and considered the most effective of the AHAs.

Lactic acid, derived primarily from milk is considered to be milder and less irritating than glycolic acid, and is therefore considered ideal for those with sensitive skin. Its origins can be traced back to Cleopatra, who purportedly used sour milk on her skin.

Citric acid from citrus fruits, malic acid from apples and pears and tartaric acid from grapes are not as common and their effectiveness is still not clear.

Asides from cosmetic creams and lotions, AHA products are also found in various shampoos and cuticle softners.

To discover if the product does have an AHA the label should indicate the presence of one or more of the acids which include

- glycolic acid (GA)- lactic acid,

- GA plus ammonium glycolate

- α-hydroxyethanoic acid plus ammonium \α-hydroxyethanoate

- α-hydroxyoctanoic acid, α-hydroxycaprylic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid

- mixed fruit acid- triple fruit acid

- tri-α hydroxy fruit acids- sugarcane extract

- α-hydroxy and botanical complex

Glycolic acid has been shown to be an effective peeling agent and is available in a variety of strengths. Other AHAs ( lactic, and citric acid) applied topically, at 25%, have been demonstrated to increase epidermal and papillary dermal thickness, increase acid mucopolysaccharide, improve the quality of elastic fibers, and increase the density of collagen. All of them improve the skin texture and reveal a much youthful appearing skin.

The two acids, Glycolic and lactic acid are also the most frequently used in cosmetics, although there are many others used in combination.

Source: http://www.dermanetwork.org/glossary/2007/10/alpha_hydroxyl_acids.html