Human studies have convincingly demonstrated pronounced photo protective effects of 'natural' and synthetic antioxidants when applied topically before UVR exposure. Particularly with respect to UVB-induced skin damage such as erythema formation, the photoprotective effects of antioxidants are significant when applied in distinct mixtures in appropriate vehicles. One of the basic criteria for cosmetic and personal-care formulations is for them to have a shelf life sufficient enough to ensure product quality when purchased within a reasonable period of time. The ability of a product to resist oxidation is an important component of customer satisfaction. A stable formula will help ensure that the desired functionality and appearance of the product will not be significantly altered over time because of exposure to air. Oxidation and rancidity are primary adversaries to the cosmetic formulator. They have been and will continue to be a challenge in formulating.
Linoleic acid is as part of the upper skin (stratum corneum) vital for the skin's barrier function and exhibits important skin-care and restorative properties. Linoleic acid is very susceptible to oxidation. On contact with air and light, it rapidly develops a highly rancid odor. Complexing the linoleic acid with cyclodextrins (example: Cavamax W6/linoleic acid) stabilizes the active linoleic acid by encapsulating in alpha-cyclodextrins. Linoleic acid is thus shielded against air and chemical attack.
Natural oils are good sources for tocopherols and phytosterols, components offering both antioxidant activity and bioactivity for skin care applications. Many common natural oils such as rapeseed oil, sunflower oil and soybean oil are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, mainly linoleic (18:2n-6) and "-linolenic (18:3n-3) acids. These natural oils are desirable emollients for skin care applications.
Wheat Germ Oil is an antioxidant with more Vitamin E than any other natural oil making it more resistant to light and heat than other vegetable oils. Wheat Germ Oil also contains smaller amounts of Vitamin A, Vitamin B (B1, B2, B3 and B6), Vitamin F and lecithin. It is primarily used as an emollient to moisturize and relieve dry, irritated skin. Wheat Germ Oil possesses cell regenerative properties that make it a good choice for anti-aging formulas.
Avocado oil - is deeply hydrating and highly compatible with your skin's own oils. It is also a powerful anti-oxidant and is brimming with high levels of chlorophyll, vitamin E and omegas 3 and 9 to improve the health and vitality of your skin.
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates (Vital ET) is a unique bio-functional form of Vitamin E with excellent skin lubricity. It is easy to formulate into oil and water based systems and is compatible with a broad range of raw materials.
Hazelnut oil contains a non-polar fraction (98.8%) almost completely composed by triacylglycerides and almost 90% of the unsaturated fatty acids are monounsaturated ones, which results in less oil oxidation . The polar lipids (1.2%) are phosphatidylcholine, hosphatidylethanolamine and phophatidylinositol. Hazelnut oil is highly recommendable to formulate cosmetic products to protect the integrity of skin and hair against the oxidation process. Hazelnut oil can delay the oxidation process because of its high vitamin E content.
Jojoba oil has excellent inherent emollient and moisturizing properties - coupled to its oxidative stability properties. It is one of the world's top lipid cosmetic ingredients often used in anti-aging skincare.
Cocoa Butter is one of the most stable fats known, loaded with natural antioxidants that prevent rancidity and give it a shelf life of two to five years. It softens and lubricates the skin, assisting in reducing stretch marks and scars making it an excellent massage cream. It performance as an antioxidant, emollient, and lubricant.
Sweet almond oil has a long historical use that includes restoring itchy, dry and inflamed skin as well as being a simple emollient. It contains 24% linoleic acid, an incredibly high amount of the antioxidant EFA. Many massage therapists use this oil as a lubricant. Almond oil performs as an antioxidant, emollient, and lubricant.
Shea Butter is used as an emollient and moisturizer in cosmetics. High in vitamin E, an anti-aging antioxidant that increases micro-circulation, it also contains the antioxidants beta-carotene and vitamin A.
Extracted from the husk of a rice plant, rice oil is a lipid with UV-absorbent and antioxidant properties, which are actually enhanced in the presence of amino acids. The natural emollient also has a high content of unsaturated acids that help to maintain healthy skin. Its smooth, non-greasy feel makes it a good natural emollient and conditioner in skin care, sun care and hair care products.
Finally, Lecithin is a natural anti-oxidant and emollient mainly derived from common egg yolk or from naturally occurring phospholipids derived from soybeans. Lecithin is used commercially in substances requiring a natural emulsifier and/or lubricant, from pharmaceuticals to protective coverings. Lecithin is a mixture of various phospholipids, and the composition depends on the origin of the lecithin. A major source of lecithin is Soybean oil.
Source: http://www.specialchem4cosmetics.com/services/articles.aspx?id=3873
Showing posts with label Alpa Hydroxi Acids. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alpa Hydroxi Acids. Show all posts
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Alpha Hydroxyl Acids
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are also known as the fruit acids. These acids are derived from various fruits and milk sugars. Alpha hydroxyl acids is a general name for a number of carboxylic acids found in these fruits.
AHA are either naturally occurring or synthetic. AHAs are well-known for their use in the cosmetics industry. They are often found in products claiming to reduce wrinkles or the signs of aging, and improve the overall look and feel of the skin.
AHA are also used as chemical peels in various concentration. Their effectiveness is documented. For more than a 1000 years, these fruit acids have been used to treat a number of skin disorders and lately have been claimed to improve facial rejuvenation.
It is recorded in the Egyptian papyrus archives that Cleopatra was an avid fan of these acids and frequently bathed in a mixture of the acids and sour milk.
In Europe, the French and the Austrian woman have been known to use topical application of these acids for rejuvenating their face.
Today there are many cosmetic creams which contain some type of AHA and these creams are generally sold to improve facial appearance. Almost all of the creams claim that the skin will become soft, smoother and have a fresh looking appearance.
Depending on the concentration, some have been shown to be effective as peeling agents and for facial rejuvenation.
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the α-hydroxy acids most frequently used in cosmetics, although there are many others used in combination.
Glycolic acid is the most widely used of out of the group and is usually manufactured from sugar cane. It is fairly well known and considered the most effective of the AHAs.
Lactic acid, derived primarily from milk is considered to be milder and less irritating than glycolic acid, and is therefore considered ideal for those with sensitive skin. Its origins can be traced back to Cleopatra, who purportedly used sour milk on her skin.
Citric acid from citrus fruits, malic acid from apples and pears and tartaric acid from grapes are not as common and their effectiveness is still not clear.
Asides from cosmetic creams and lotions, AHA products are also found in various shampoos and cuticle softners.
To discover if the product does have an AHA the label should indicate the presence of one or more of the acids which include
- glycolic acid (GA)- lactic acid,
- GA plus ammonium glycolate
- α-hydroxyethanoic acid plus ammonium \α-hydroxyethanoate
- α-hydroxyoctanoic acid, α-hydroxycaprylic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid
- mixed fruit acid- triple fruit acid
- tri-α hydroxy fruit acids- sugarcane extract
- α-hydroxy and botanical complex
Glycolic acid has been shown to be an effective peeling agent and is available in a variety of strengths. Other AHAs ( lactic, and citric acid) applied topically, at 25%, have been demonstrated to increase epidermal and papillary dermal thickness, increase acid mucopolysaccharide, improve the quality of elastic fibers, and increase the density of collagen. All of them improve the skin texture and reveal a much youthful appearing skin.
The two acids, Glycolic and lactic acid are also the most frequently used in cosmetics, although there are many others used in combination.
Source: http://www.dermanetwork.org/glossary/2007/10/alpha_hydroxyl_acids.html
AHA are either naturally occurring or synthetic. AHAs are well-known for their use in the cosmetics industry. They are often found in products claiming to reduce wrinkles or the signs of aging, and improve the overall look and feel of the skin.
AHA are also used as chemical peels in various concentration. Their effectiveness is documented. For more than a 1000 years, these fruit acids have been used to treat a number of skin disorders and lately have been claimed to improve facial rejuvenation.
It is recorded in the Egyptian papyrus archives that Cleopatra was an avid fan of these acids and frequently bathed in a mixture of the acids and sour milk.
In Europe, the French and the Austrian woman have been known to use topical application of these acids for rejuvenating their face.
Today there are many cosmetic creams which contain some type of AHA and these creams are generally sold to improve facial appearance. Almost all of the creams claim that the skin will become soft, smoother and have a fresh looking appearance.
Depending on the concentration, some have been shown to be effective as peeling agents and for facial rejuvenation.
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the α-hydroxy acids most frequently used in cosmetics, although there are many others used in combination.
Glycolic acid is the most widely used of out of the group and is usually manufactured from sugar cane. It is fairly well known and considered the most effective of the AHAs.
Lactic acid, derived primarily from milk is considered to be milder and less irritating than glycolic acid, and is therefore considered ideal for those with sensitive skin. Its origins can be traced back to Cleopatra, who purportedly used sour milk on her skin.
Citric acid from citrus fruits, malic acid from apples and pears and tartaric acid from grapes are not as common and their effectiveness is still not clear.
Asides from cosmetic creams and lotions, AHA products are also found in various shampoos and cuticle softners.
To discover if the product does have an AHA the label should indicate the presence of one or more of the acids which include
- glycolic acid (GA)- lactic acid,
- GA plus ammonium glycolate
- α-hydroxyethanoic acid plus ammonium \α-hydroxyethanoate
- α-hydroxyoctanoic acid, α-hydroxycaprylic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid
- mixed fruit acid- triple fruit acid
- tri-α hydroxy fruit acids- sugarcane extract
- α-hydroxy and botanical complex
Glycolic acid has been shown to be an effective peeling agent and is available in a variety of strengths. Other AHAs ( lactic, and citric acid) applied topically, at 25%, have been demonstrated to increase epidermal and papillary dermal thickness, increase acid mucopolysaccharide, improve the quality of elastic fibers, and increase the density of collagen. All of them improve the skin texture and reveal a much youthful appearing skin.
The two acids, Glycolic and lactic acid are also the most frequently used in cosmetics, although there are many others used in combination.
Source: http://www.dermanetwork.org/glossary/2007/10/alpha_hydroxyl_acids.html
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