A soothing bath oil, perfect for unwinding before bed.
Infusion Time: 4 to 6 weeks
2 fresh, plump vanilla bean pods
5 ounces organic macadamia or kukui nut oil
9 drops lavender essential oil
To prepare a vanilla infusion, lightly wash vanilla bean pods and pat dry. Allow them to dry overnight, then roll them with your fingers into a bean shape. Gently split them open with a sharp knife and mash them lightly with a spoon.
Pour macadamia or kukui nut oil into a small, airtight glass jar or bottle; place the mashed vanilla bean pods inside. Allow the vanilla essence to infuse the oil for 4 to 6 weeks, shaking it gently every few days.
After infusing, strain the oil into a container with a lid. Kept refrigerated, it will last up to six months.
To prepare a bath, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of the vanilla infusion and 9 drops of lavender essential oil to a tub of warm water. Agitate the water before entering the tub.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/
Friday, August 3, 2007
Spa Essentials: Sugar-Marmalade Body Buff
A skin-smoothing, uplifting wake-up for a morning shower.
Infusion Time: 1 week
1 1/2 cups raw, organic sugar
1/2 cup coarsely ground organic whole oats
2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, finely chopped
Zest of 1 small orange and 1 small lemon
45 drops lemon essential oil
2 tablespoons warmed honey
1/2 cup sweet almond oil
Directions:
In a large bowl, combine sugar, oats, ginger, and the zests. Place half of the mixture in a large jar. Add lemon essential oil, then the remaining mixture. Cap, shake well, and allow to mature for one week, shaking occasionally.
For the scrub, combine the honey and sweet almond oil in a measuring cup. Drizzle the mixture into the sugar and oats. If it's too grainy, add more oil; if it's runny, add sugar.
Apply the scrub to wet skin, starting at the feet and working up. Use a circular motion toward your heart. Since scrubbing and heat can increase the absorption of essential oils, use warm, but not hot, water.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/
Infusion Time: 1 week
1 1/2 cups raw, organic sugar
1/2 cup coarsely ground organic whole oats
2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, finely chopped
Zest of 1 small orange and 1 small lemon
45 drops lemon essential oil
2 tablespoons warmed honey
1/2 cup sweet almond oil
Directions:
In a large bowl, combine sugar, oats, ginger, and the zests. Place half of the mixture in a large jar. Add lemon essential oil, then the remaining mixture. Cap, shake well, and allow to mature for one week, shaking occasionally.
For the scrub, combine the honey and sweet almond oil in a measuring cup. Drizzle the mixture into the sugar and oats. If it's too grainy, add more oil; if it's runny, add sugar.
Apply the scrub to wet skin, starting at the feet and working up. Use a circular motion toward your heart. Since scrubbing and heat can increase the absorption of essential oils, use warm, but not hot, water.
If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.
Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/
Thursday, August 2, 2007
Gift Wrap Soap
I saw this segment of Craft Lab on DIY discussed how to wrap soap:
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_special_days_gifts/article/0,2025,DIY_13777_5122913,00.html
Even though it discusses wrapping bought soap, this is also a great idea for the soap you make at home!
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_special_days_gifts/article/0,2025,DIY_13777_5122913,00.html
Even though it discusses wrapping bought soap, this is also a great idea for the soap you make at home!
How to Layer Melt and Pour Soap
Layering melt and pour soaps is easy. The key to making great-layered
soaps is to have the ingredients that can be made ahead of time,ready. Next, it is important to be very patient; each layer has to be thoroughly set before the next layer is added.
Good preparation involves gathering all the ingredients and tools needed. Next, it is important to have soap colorants that do not bleed into adjacent layers.
Colors sometimes differ according to manufactures. Suppliers will sometimes change color names to protect their sources and so as not to infringe on copyrighted or trademarked names. In addition, suppliers will mix their own proprietory color combinations. The chief thing to look for if you are using colors for melt and pour soaps and do not want colors that bleed into adjacent layers, is to make sure colors are non-bleeding colors. Usually colors that are pigments, micas and even colored clays will not bleed. Usually dyes will bleed. However, some suppliers may mix a combination of dyes with non-bleeding pigments and will advertise the color as a nonbleeding color. This may be true. So, one cannot say with certainty that a color with a dye product will always bleed. Still, sometimes colors that will not normally bleed in one kind of soap, may bleed in another kind of soap. The most effective way to ensure that colors are non-bleeding is to check with the manufacturer and then secondly to do your own testing.
To test a particular color, make a small test batch with desired colors layered next to an opaque white base and watch the colors over a period of two to three weeks. Sometimes it takes more that two weeks or even a month for the color bleeding to become evident. It is important to stick to suppliers who know their product and have tested the colors they are selling in different products.
Tools needed:
1. Method of melting soap (bain marie, double boiler method, microwave method, direct stove method)
2. Isopropyl alcohol, vodka or distilled water in spray bottle ( to spray one layer before adding the next)
3. Non-bleeding colors - like oxides and non-bleeding pigments. Also micas can be used.
4. Loaf or individual mold
5. Fragrance or essential oil blend
Decide how much soap will be used in each layer of soap. If the soap mold
is a loaf mold and the manufacturer says that the mold holds about 50 oz.
of soap, then decide how many ounces embeds and fragrance total. Subtract this sum from the total volume. The amount left, then can be distributed to each layer.
So, if the mold holds 50 oz. and the embeds you have on hand totals 10 oz and the fragrance is 4 oz, then the combination weight of the soap base and fragrance will have to be 40 oz.
It is important to keep a log of the amounts of each layer and embed combinations along with fragrance. If this is not done, then each time you are making layers, you will be guessing the amounts of each ingredient needed. To keep an accurate count of how much soap is used means that ingredients will not be wasted.
So, for the first batch of layered soap in each mold, weigh or measure the ingredients. If a scale is not available, then the next best thing to do is to measure the melted soap and record this amount, or approximate the weight and note the amount. This is especially important if you use many different molds.
For example, if you are using a log mold and the mold holds 50 oz. of soap and the layered soap you are making has three layers with embeds on two layers-- The first thing to do is to list the amounts to ensure that your total is not more than the mold will hold:
Have embeds ready before making the soap
Soap layer 1 = 16 oz.
Soap layer 2 = 8 oz.
Soap layer 3 = 12 oz.
Large red embed = 8 oz.
Small red embeds = 2 oz.
Fragrance oil = 4 oz
-------------------------
Total = 50 oz.
Instructions:
Melt soap according to manufacturer's directions. Allow to cool until skin forms on top. Stir, and allow to cool until lukewarm. Add color and fragrance. Follow manufactures instructions for color mixing. Some colors clump so to mix take out about 1 tablespoon of melted soap and combine with color, then add back to melted soap. It is important to work quickly so that soap does not get too thick and unworkable.
Pour soap into mold. Before embeds are placed into layer, spritz them with alcohol, or other liquid. If embeds are large, turn them over and spray all surfaces. Then add them if this is part of the design. Embeds will not sink to the bootom of the mixture if soap is cool, rather than hot. The cooler the soap the more conrol you have of where to place the embeds.
Allow soap to set and cool for about one hour or so. Soap may be placed into the refrigerator to set. However, be forwarned that soap will absorb strong odors from the refrigerator. Also, food will absorb some of the scent if soap is left in the refrigerator for a long period of time.
To Add further layers:
Check soap to make sure layer is set completely and there are no hot spots left. Spritz layer with alcohol or other liquid and pour lukewarm melted base that has been colored and fragranced. Moisten embeds with spray and add to last layer. Allow soap to set for several hours or overnight.
Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
soaps is to have the ingredients that can be made ahead of time,ready. Next, it is important to be very patient; each layer has to be thoroughly set before the next layer is added.
Good preparation involves gathering all the ingredients and tools needed. Next, it is important to have soap colorants that do not bleed into adjacent layers.
Colors sometimes differ according to manufactures. Suppliers will sometimes change color names to protect their sources and so as not to infringe on copyrighted or trademarked names. In addition, suppliers will mix their own proprietory color combinations. The chief thing to look for if you are using colors for melt and pour soaps and do not want colors that bleed into adjacent layers, is to make sure colors are non-bleeding colors. Usually colors that are pigments, micas and even colored clays will not bleed. Usually dyes will bleed. However, some suppliers may mix a combination of dyes with non-bleeding pigments and will advertise the color as a nonbleeding color. This may be true. So, one cannot say with certainty that a color with a dye product will always bleed. Still, sometimes colors that will not normally bleed in one kind of soap, may bleed in another kind of soap. The most effective way to ensure that colors are non-bleeding is to check with the manufacturer and then secondly to do your own testing.
To test a particular color, make a small test batch with desired colors layered next to an opaque white base and watch the colors over a period of two to three weeks. Sometimes it takes more that two weeks or even a month for the color bleeding to become evident. It is important to stick to suppliers who know their product and have tested the colors they are selling in different products.
Tools needed:
1. Method of melting soap (bain marie, double boiler method, microwave method, direct stove method)
2. Isopropyl alcohol, vodka or distilled water in spray bottle ( to spray one layer before adding the next)
3. Non-bleeding colors - like oxides and non-bleeding pigments. Also micas can be used.
4. Loaf or individual mold
5. Fragrance or essential oil blend
Decide how much soap will be used in each layer of soap. If the soap mold
is a loaf mold and the manufacturer says that the mold holds about 50 oz.
of soap, then decide how many ounces embeds and fragrance total. Subtract this sum from the total volume. The amount left, then can be distributed to each layer.
So, if the mold holds 50 oz. and the embeds you have on hand totals 10 oz and the fragrance is 4 oz, then the combination weight of the soap base and fragrance will have to be 40 oz.
It is important to keep a log of the amounts of each layer and embed combinations along with fragrance. If this is not done, then each time you are making layers, you will be guessing the amounts of each ingredient needed. To keep an accurate count of how much soap is used means that ingredients will not be wasted.
So, for the first batch of layered soap in each mold, weigh or measure the ingredients. If a scale is not available, then the next best thing to do is to measure the melted soap and record this amount, or approximate the weight and note the amount. This is especially important if you use many different molds.
For example, if you are using a log mold and the mold holds 50 oz. of soap and the layered soap you are making has three layers with embeds on two layers-- The first thing to do is to list the amounts to ensure that your total is not more than the mold will hold:
Have embeds ready before making the soap
Soap layer 1 = 16 oz.
Soap layer 2 = 8 oz.
Soap layer 3 = 12 oz.
Large red embed = 8 oz.
Small red embeds = 2 oz.
Fragrance oil = 4 oz
-------------------------
Total = 50 oz.
Instructions:
Melt soap according to manufacturer's directions. Allow to cool until skin forms on top. Stir, and allow to cool until lukewarm. Add color and fragrance. Follow manufactures instructions for color mixing. Some colors clump so to mix take out about 1 tablespoon of melted soap and combine with color, then add back to melted soap. It is important to work quickly so that soap does not get too thick and unworkable.
Pour soap into mold. Before embeds are placed into layer, spritz them with alcohol, or other liquid. If embeds are large, turn them over and spray all surfaces. Then add them if this is part of the design. Embeds will not sink to the bootom of the mixture if soap is cool, rather than hot. The cooler the soap the more conrol you have of where to place the embeds.
Allow soap to set and cool for about one hour or so. Soap may be placed into the refrigerator to set. However, be forwarned that soap will absorb strong odors from the refrigerator. Also, food will absorb some of the scent if soap is left in the refrigerator for a long period of time.
To Add further layers:
Check soap to make sure layer is set completely and there are no hot spots left. Spritz layer with alcohol or other liquid and pour lukewarm melted base that has been colored and fragranced. Moisten embeds with spray and add to last layer. Allow soap to set for several hours or overnight.
Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
To Wrap or Not to Wrap Your Soaps
According to Norma Covey, author of The Complete Soapmaker,
if you did not add any fragrance to your soap then you do not need protective wrapping. But if your soap is scented then you should always wrap your soap with plastic wrap or the scent will dissapate. Since her book is primarily on the Cold Process of making soap, I would take this advice. But on the other hand, I found that glycerin soap will sometimes sweat, it best to keep them wrapped until you are going to use them.
If you want to make your packaging more attractive, the author suggests in making your soaps more attractive in appearance, use these items in addition to your plastic wrap:
* Wax Paper
* Sewn Fabric
* Sachet Bags
* Muslin Bags
* Corrugated Cardboard (wrapped with ribbons, etc.)
* Colorful Gift Wrap
if you did not add any fragrance to your soap then you do not need protective wrapping. But if your soap is scented then you should always wrap your soap with plastic wrap or the scent will dissapate. Since her book is primarily on the Cold Process of making soap, I would take this advice. But on the other hand, I found that glycerin soap will sometimes sweat, it best to keep them wrapped until you are going to use them.
If you want to make your packaging more attractive, the author suggests in making your soaps more attractive in appearance, use these items in addition to your plastic wrap:
* Wax Paper
* Sewn Fabric
* Sachet Bags
* Muslin Bags
* Corrugated Cardboard (wrapped with ribbons, etc.)
* Colorful Gift Wrap
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