Rock Crystal Soaps

Through the melt and pour process of making soap, there are many unique techniques. One that I found to be quite interesting is making your soaps look like Rock Crystals. These soaps are simply marbled bars of soap that been cut into crystal-shaped pieces. You can make your soap look like a milky quartz, opal agate, malachite, jade, amethyst or rose quartz.

The basic techniques for Rock Crystal Soaps are

Molds: Use any molds that can be be poured to a depth of approximately 2". A food container is a good shape to use.

For marbled soap: Melt clear glycerin soap base and white glycerin soap base in different containers. These bases can be colored or left in their original statee. Pour melted soaps into an appropiate mold at the same time. When using this technique your soap will look like malachite.

For a chunk style soap in a marbled base: Mold scented and color soap. Cut into crystal-shaped pieces 1/2" to 1". Place in mold before pouring in the two melted soap bases to marbleize. If you do this techinque your soap will look like milky quartz.

To create metallic veins through your soap: Brush a little metallic mica powder on the pieces before the second pouring to get the look of Opal Agate. Or brush some powered spices for a natural looking vein that may appear in Jade soap.

For layered looking gems: Pour melted clear glycerin soap base and melted white coconut oil bases over the cut crystal-shaped pices in order to get a amethyst look.

Cutting soaps: The most important step is cutting the soaps after they are molded so they look like gems. Cut the soap into 2" to 3" pieces and trim them by cutting random sharp, straight angles. This imitates the facets and clean cleavages of crystals.

Scenting: Use your favorite scents. The best choices inclue ylang-ylang, amber frankincense, cinnamon, and vanilla.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.



Source: Melt and Pour Soapmaking by Marie Browning, Sterling Publishing Company, New York, 2001. Page 64.

Embossed Soap

On a segment of Craft Lab (episode #DCLB-115), a demonstration of embossed soap was featured:

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_natural_homemade/article/0,2025,DIY_13767_5181038,00.html

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.

Layered Soaps Techniques

I found this recipe and wanted to share it with you.

This recipe creates two bars of luxurious layered soap. Use your two favorite fragrances to make your soap. Some of Kelly's favorite combinations are mango and strawberry, violet and musk, chocolate and orange, cinnamon and rose, and raspberry and peach.

Ingredients:
2 4oz. bars unscented glycerin soap
10 drops fragrance oil (your choice)
10 drops fragrance oil (your choice)
2 drops different coloring (ex. 1 orange, 1 blue)

Steps:
In a heavy saucepan over low heat, melt one bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in one drop food coloring and 10 drops fragrance oil. Pour half of the mixture into two soap molds, filling each mold halfway. Wait twenty minutes. Melt your second bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in the other drop of food coloring and fragrance oil. Pour this second layer on top of the first layer (already in molds). Let soap set for three hours or until hardened. Your finished bars should come out half one color and half another.

I also found these links that you may want to check out to create layered soaps:

Teach Soap (http://www.teachsoap.com/layersoap.html)

Soap Crafters (http://www.soapcrafters.com/rnbow.htm)

From Denise's Yadda Yadda Blog
(Part 1 http://goplanetearth.blogspot.com/2008/03/melt-and-pour-soap-making-pouring-soap.html; Part 2 http://goplanetearth.blogspot.com/2008/03/melt-and-pour-soap-making-pouring-soap_07.html; Part 3 http://goplanetearth.blogspot.com/2008/03/melt-pour-soap-making-pouring-soap-in.html)

Soap Teacher (http://www.soapteacher.com/StoreCategory.aspx?CategoryID=17&CategoryName=Layering+Soap)

DIY (http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ca_crafts_projects/article/0,2041,DIY_13721_5713671,00.html)

In research this I found out that using a fork to scrap between layers like in the demo from Teach Soap makes the next layer adhere much better.

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.

Three Dimensional Soap

According to Kelly Ewing, author of Making Candles and Soaps for Dummies, a three-dimensional soap is actually soap that has as a shape, such as a form as a duck. The easiest way to create a 3-D soap is using a two-piece mold. What is a two-piece mold? It is a mold that comes in two pieces which is held together by plastic clamps. The mold has a hold at the top or bottom so that you can pour your melted soap into it. These molds can be tricky, which is one reason why making this type of soap is abit more advanced.

The author recommends these steps to create a 3-D bar of soap:

1. Prepare your mold by sliding the clamp into place to hold the mold together and then place the pour spout side upside on top. If the mold you are using has alot of intricate details, the author suggests spraying the mold with vegetable oil or a releasing agent so that the soap will come out easier.

2. Melt your soap base.

3. Add your color and then your scent; stir well.

4. Pour your soap into your mold through the hold provided.

5. Remove your soap from the mold after it solidifies.

6. If any excess edges exists, gently slice it away. Some potato peelers work well for this, if they don't take too big a bit when used.

7. If necessary, smooth out any rough edges remaining by using a damp finger or cloth.

8. If you're not going to use your soap right away, wrap it in plastic to store.

Tip: If you want to purchase these kinds of molds, then check out ebay. There are plenty of these types of molds and other soap making supplies being auctioned off all the time.

Imprinted Soap

According to Kelly Ewing, author of Making Candles and Soaps for Dummies, imprinted soap is simply a bar of soap that you have stamped when wet.

If you like to try to make this bar of soap, the author suggests the following steps:

1. Choose your stamp. Try to choose a stamp that doesn't have alot of intricate detail. At your craft store, look for stamps with sharper edges. Metal stamps work better than others.

2. Melt your soap base.

3. Pour you melted soap. A square or rectangle bar of soap works well for this soap. But Life of the Party, has a hex and circle geo shaped molds that would also work. Try to match your mold size to the approximate sign of your stamp so that the edges are not as visible.

4. Wait for the soap to get and then gently place your stamp in the mold.

5. Let your stamp remain in the mold for approximately 15 to 30 minutes. If you remove your stamp too early, the soap is still liquid and runs back into the spot where your stamp was.

6. Remove your stamp.

7. Gently smooth out any rough edges.

8. Let your soap continue to solidify.

9. Remove your soap from the mold.

10. Wrap your soap in plastic if you're not using it immediately.

This is only one way of making this type of soap. You may find that this process may be called embossed soap and may be done slightly different. Check out HGTV, DIY and other sites and do a search on embossed soaps.

Hand Milled Soap Recipe

We all love those specialty soaps, you find at soap shops. Sure they're wonderfully scented and rich and creamy, and expensive. I have a few recipes for hand milled soap that rival those expensive brands, for half the price. They're great for a personal treat, or for gift giving.

HAND MILLED SOAP

For Rich and foamy milk soap, you'll need:

2 bars mild unscented white soap
½ cup dry instant milk
water
a small sauce pan
a wooden spoon
plastic soap molds (found at craft supply stores)
a cheese grater
3 drops of essential oils, your choice of scent ( optional )

Directions:
Grate the bars of soap, like you were grating cheese for pizza, into a bowl. In your small sauce pan put ¼ cup of water. Now add your grated soap. Heat on low until melted. Try not to stir. You will be tempted to but don't, or you'll make bubbles that you don't want. When it is all melted, fold in your dry milk. Make sure you don't stir, it's very important to fold gently. Remove from heat, and add essential oils, if desired. Spoon into molds, and stick into the frig until it's set and hard. Remove from frig and take your soap out of the molds. Put your soap on a cooling rack, and put it somewhere to dry. The drying can take up to three weeks. It's very important to make sure your soap is completely dry before wrapping. When you're sure it's thoroughly dry, wrap your creation with plastic wrap, tightly. Tape the wrap closed. To give as a gift, add extra wrappings. I use floral tissue paper, then a corrugated cardboard strip around that. Tape it closed, add a label, and there you have a lovely gift.


Sage Soap

Ingredients:
2 bars mild unscented white soap
¼ cup rubbed sage
water
a small sauce pan
a wooden spoon
plastic soap molds (found at craft supply stores)
a cheese grater

Directions:
Grate the bars of soap, like you're grating cheese for pizza, into a bowl. In your small sauce pan put ¼ cup of water. Now add your grated soap. Heat on low until melted. Try not to stir. You will be tempted to but don't, or you'll make bubbles that you don't want. When it is all melted, fold in your rubbed sage. Make sure you don't stir, it's very important to fold gently. Remove from heat. Spoon into molds, and stick into the frig until it's set and hard. Remove from frig and take your soap out of the molds. Put your soap on a cooling rack, and put it somewhere to dry. The drying can take up to three weeks. It's very important to make sure your soap is completely dry, before wrapping. When you're sure it's thoroughly dry, wrap your creation with plastic wrap, tightly. Tape the wrap closed. To give as a gift, add extra wrappings. I use floral tissue paper, then a corrugated cardboard strip around that. Tape it closed, add a label, and there you have a lovely gift, for your favorite gardener. This soap also acts as a light astringent.


If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.


Source: http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/home_and_garden_retired/10942

Marbelized Soap

According to Kelly Ewing, author of Making Candles and Soaps for Dummies, marbeled soap aka swirled soap is just two or more colors mixed to together to acheive marbled effect. To make marbled soap:

1. Melt your soap base.

2. Separate a small amount of melted base into another bowl.

3. Add your main color to the bowl that contains the majority of the soap. Ewing suggests not to select a too dark of a color base because you want your contrasting swirl to be visible.

4. Add a darker color to the small amount of base.

5. Pour your main color of soap into mold.

6. Take the smaller portion of swirl color and pour it evenly over the top of your base soap in a zig zag fashion, trying to evenly pour over the top so all parts of the the soap will have both colors. Using a toothpick combine soap just like you would when making a marbled cake. Just place down into the soap and gently drag it back and forth to side.

7. Remove your soap from the mold after it hardens. This step can take anywhere from one to three hours.

Tip: What I have done to make marblized soap was to pour the melt soap into the mold and then add 1 to 2 drops of one color and 1 to 2 drops of another color in a different area of the soap and swirl the colors with a toothpick. If you want to add a scent then add it prior to pouring.

Glyerine Soap Project From DIY

On a segment of Ask DIY (episode #DI-102), a demonstration of Melt and Pour Soapmaking is featured.

Q: I'm looking for ways to dress up a first-floor guest bathroom. Any ideas for something other than just monogrammed towels?

A: (Debbie Stapley, Craft Expert) To add your own touch to any bathroom in the house, why not make your own decorative soaps? They're easy, and there are infinite ways to make them fun.

Here's the basic process:

Materials:

Clear, unscented glycerin soap
Trinkets to put inside, such as spare change, shells, beads, game pieces, toys, etc.
Colored glycerin soap, cut into pieces
Small bread pan
Soap mold
Essential oil
Soap dye
Microwave
Microwave-safe measuring cup or bowl
Cooking spray
Heat-safe knife and fork


(1) Cut a bar of clear glycerin soap into one-inch pieces. Place them in a microwave-safe bowl or measuring cup, and microwave for about one minute.

(2) If you wish to color or scent your soap, add about four drops of soap dye or one drop of essential oil to the melted soap, then blend gently with a metal fork.

(3) Spray a bread pan or soap mold with vegetable oil to make it easy to remove your finished soap.

(4) Fill the pan or mold with about 1/4 inch of the liquid soap and let it stand for three minutes, or until a skin develops across the top.

(5) Place objects on the soap layer, with their prettiest sides down.

(6) Reheat the rest of the soap until it melts again. Then slowly pour it into the mold until the soap is 3/4 inch to one inch higher than the objects inside.

(7) Working smarter: Use a sharp knife to pop any air bubbles in the mixture before the soap gets too hard.

(8) Wait 15-30 minutes for the soap to harden.

(9) Run a knife around the sides of the soap. Then turn the pan or mold upside down and hit it on a hard surface to release the soap. Now you have a beautiful bar that can be cut into smaller pieces if you like. Or if your soap didn't turn out the way you wanted it, you can melt it down and start over.

Tip: For more color, add little pieces of colored glycerin soap to the pan before topping with the second batch of liquid soap.

More questions for Debbie:

Q: Can you use food coloring to color the soap? A: No, stick with dyes that are specifically made for soaps.

Q: If I can't find clear glycerin soap in the store. Is there another option? A: Yes, there is, but there is also a rule of thumb: If you can see through the soap, it will probably melt easily. If you can't see through it, it will burn. The good thing about the see-through glycerin soaps in other colors is that you won't have to purchase dye separately. You may even want to try to find a soap that's already scented, so you don't need the essential oil.

Web extra:

Q: Can you use different molds or cookie cutters? A: Use any soap mold that appeals to you, but use a cookie cutter just to cut shapes after the soap has hardened -- not as a mold.


Web site resources for glycerin soap:
Al & Abigail's Country Place information
Zenda's Homemade Soap and Beauty Recipes
Sweet Cakes soap-making supplies
About.com information

Books:
Soap -- Making It, Enjoying It By Ann Bramson
Workman Publishing
708 Broadway
New York, NY 10003
Phone: 212-254-5900Web site: http://www.workman.com/

Beautiful Handmade Natural Soaps By Marie Browning
Sterling Publishing
387 Park Avenue, S.New York, NY 10016
Phone: 212-532-7160
Fax: 212-213-2495
Web site: http://www.sterlingpub.com/

Handmade Soap By Tatyana Hill
Lorenz Books (1999)
An imprint of Anness Publishing
27 West 20th St.New York, NY 10011
Phone: 800-354-9657
Fax: 212-807-6813
Web site: http://www.lorenzbooks.com/



Source: http://www.diynet.com/

Deodorant Soap

This soap absorbs odors. If you have been handling something smelly like fish, garlic, or onions, wash with this deodorant soap. It will make the odor disappear. The secret ingredient is coffee!

Ingredients

Oils
2 oz castor oil
6 oz coconut oil
11 oz olive oil
4 oz palm oil
1 oz beeswax

Lye Mixture
9 fl oz strongly brewed coffee
3.3 oz lye

Directions
If you use the hot process method, remove all but the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat it to 200 degrees.

Weigh all the oils. Put them into a big stainless steel pot. Set the heat to medium and stir the oils on the stove until they all turn to liquid. Turn off the stove.

Measure the coffee into a strong plastic container. Go outside and measure the lye into another strong plastic container. Mix the lye into the coffee. Keep stirring until the lye has completely dissolved. Then stir it some more. Take the lye mixture inside and pour it into the pot of oils. Stir it with a stick blender until it reaches trace. If it doesn't reach trace in five minutes, turn off the stick blender and stir by hand for a few minutes. Then turn the stick blender back on for about five minutes. Alternate stirring with the stick blender on for a while and then off for a while until you reach trace. If you run the stick blender continuously for too long, it might burn out.

The soap has reached trace when you see wrinkles in the surface and a trace of a drop after the drop has disappeared.

When the mixture reaches trace, if you prefer the cold process method, pour the soap into greased molds. Cover with saran wrap. Remove from molds 24 hours later. Let the soap sit in a well-ventilated area for about six weeks before using.

If you prefer the hot process method, put the top on the pot and put the pot into the oven. Cook it for an hour stirring every fifteen minutes.

When the soap is cooked, pour it into greased molds. Do not add fragrance: this soap will absorb the scent. That is the point.

Hot process soap is ready to use as soon as it cools. If it feels soft, don't worry. It might take a few days to harden.

Feel free to do the happy soap dance!

If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.


Source: http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/soapmaking/87607

Embedded Word Soap

If you are looking to put a message on your soaps, here is a project for you! On a segment of Craft Lab on the DIY Network, a demonstration of embedded word soap was featured.

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_natural_homemade/article/0,2025,DIY_13767_5181036,00.html


If you are looking for other recipes, check out some of the links in the side bar or check in my archive. There are alot of recipes in both places. I am always looking for new recipes to post on my blog, so please return in the future.

How to Layer Melt and Pour Soap

Layering melt and pour soaps is easy. The key to making great-layered
soaps is to have the ingredients that can be made ahead of time,ready. Next, it is important to be very patient; each layer has to be thoroughly set before the next layer is added.

Good preparation involves gathering all the ingredients and tools needed. Next, it is important to have soap colorants that do not bleed into adjacent layers.

Colors sometimes differ according to manufactures. Suppliers will sometimes change color names to protect their sources and so as not to infringe on copyrighted or trademarked names. In addition, suppliers will mix their own proprietory color combinations. The chief thing to look for if you are using colors for melt and pour soaps and do not want colors that bleed into adjacent layers, is to make sure colors are non-bleeding colors. Usually colors that are pigments, micas and even colored clays will not bleed. Usually dyes will bleed. However, some suppliers may mix a combination of dyes with non-bleeding pigments and will advertise the color as a nonbleeding color. This may be true. So, one cannot say with certainty that a color with a dye product will always bleed. Still, sometimes colors that will not normally bleed in one kind of soap, may bleed in another kind of soap. The most effective way to ensure that colors are non-bleeding is to check with the manufacturer and then secondly to do your own testing.

To test a particular color, make a small test batch with desired colors layered next to an opaque white base and watch the colors over a period of two to three weeks. Sometimes it takes more that two weeks or even a month for the color bleeding to become evident. It is important to stick to suppliers who know their product and have tested the colors they are selling in different products.

Tools needed:

1. Method of melting soap (bain marie, double boiler method, microwave method, direct stove method)

2. Isopropyl alcohol, vodka or distilled water in spray bottle ( to spray one layer before adding the next)

3. Non-bleeding colors - like oxides and non-bleeding pigments. Also micas can be used.

4. Loaf or individual mold

5. Fragrance or essential oil blend

Decide how much soap will be used in each layer of soap. If the soap mold
is a loaf mold and the manufacturer says that the mold holds about 50 oz.
of soap, then decide how many ounces embeds and fragrance total. Subtract this sum from the total volume. The amount left, then can be distributed to each layer.

So, if the mold holds 50 oz. and the embeds you have on hand totals 10 oz and the fragrance is 4 oz, then the combination weight of the soap base and fragrance will have to be 40 oz.

It is important to keep a log of the amounts of each layer and embed combinations along with fragrance. If this is not done, then each time you are making layers, you will be guessing the amounts of each ingredient needed. To keep an accurate count of how much soap is used means that ingredients will not be wasted.

So, for the first batch of layered soap in each mold, weigh or measure the ingredients. If a scale is not available, then the next best thing to do is to measure the melted soap and record this amount, or approximate the weight and note the amount. This is especially important if you use many different molds.

For example, if you are using a log mold and the mold holds 50 oz. of soap and the layered soap you are making has three layers with embeds on two layers-- The first thing to do is to list the amounts to ensure that your total is not more than the mold will hold:

Have embeds ready before making the soap

Soap layer 1 = 16 oz.
Soap layer 2 = 8 oz.
Soap layer 3 = 12 oz.
Large red embed = 8 oz.
Small red embeds = 2 oz.
Fragrance oil = 4 oz
-------------------------
Total = 50 oz.

Instructions:
Melt soap according to manufacturer's directions. Allow to cool until skin forms on top. Stir, and allow to cool until lukewarm. Add color and fragrance. Follow manufactures instructions for color mixing. Some colors clump so to mix take out about 1 tablespoon of melted soap and combine with color, then add back to melted soap. It is important to work quickly so that soap does not get too thick and unworkable.

Pour soap into mold. Before embeds are placed into layer, spritz them with alcohol, or other liquid. If embeds are large, turn them over and spray all surfaces. Then add them if this is part of the design. Embeds will not sink to the bootom of the mixture if soap is cool, rather than hot. The cooler the soap the more conrol you have of where to place the embeds.

Allow soap to set and cool for about one hour or so. Soap may be placed into the refrigerator to set. However, be forwarned that soap will absorb strong odors from the refrigerator. Also, food will absorb some of the scent if soap is left in the refrigerator for a long period of time.

To Add further layers:
Check soap to make sure layer is set completely and there are no hot spots left. Spritz layer with alcohol or other liquid and pour lukewarm melted base that has been colored and fragranced. Moisten embeds with spray and add to last layer. Allow soap to set for several hours or overnight.



Source: Permission to reprint by Winsome Tapper, Soapmaking Editor, www.bellaonline.com/site/soapmaking.