Showing posts with label ingredients - coloring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ingredients - coloring. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 15, 2015
Color Block Usage Rates in Melt & Pour Soap
Friday, October 17, 2008
Color Additives for Bath Products
Cosmetic Grade Color Additives fall into two categories, Organic and Inorganic. (Inorganic refers to the fact that they lack a carbon molecule and has nothing to do with the quality or purity of the Color Additive).
Organic Color Additives: Dyes, Water Soluble (like our FD & C dyes), Oil Soluble, Pigments, Lakes, Carmines. The Dyes can be water or oil soluble.
Water Soluble Dyes, like our FD & C Dyes, give crisp, brilliant, transparent color to your clear products and light, clean tints to your opaque products. They are great for coloring soaps, lotions, creams, powders, salts, etc. They can bleed if used in high concentrations in your products so do not over use and test in small batches. The color may not be very stable under alkaline conditions or if exposed to light, therefore, soaps made with FD & C dyes may fade.
Oil Soluble Dyes, like our Oxides & Ultramarines, can be used for a variety of oil based formulations.
Inorganic Color Additives: Pigments, Iron Oxides, Manganese, Ultramarines, Titanium Dioxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide (Iron Blue), Chromium Oxide
Inorganic Color Additives are regulated by the FDA to ensure that they do not contain harmful levels of heavy metals. Although Iron Oxides can be found in nature (rocks, dirt), they contain heavy metals such as lead so Iron Oxides for cosmetics are synthetically manufactured. They produce "earthy" tones and never bright, true colors. You can achieve beautiful muted colors with these pigments.
Iron Oxides are the most widely used of the Inorganic Pigments. There are 3 basic colors - Red, Black and Yellow Oxides. From these 3 oxides and the addition of Titanium Dioxide, you can achieve any shade of brown (Skin Tones). So if you are trying to create a skin tone foundation, blush, bronzer, this is where you start. They are stable under normal pH ranges and have excellent light stability however, they should not be subjected to high heat as the colors may change slightly.
Manganese Violet is not stable in alkaline environments so it should not be used in soap and it decomposes in water so it should not be used in water based formulations. It can be used to tint oil based products, and will give a nice mauve to deep purple tone. Do not use in lip products.
Organic Color Additives: Dyes, Water Soluble (like our FD & C dyes), Oil Soluble, Pigments, Lakes, Carmines. The Dyes can be water or oil soluble.
Water Soluble Dyes, like our FD & C Dyes, give crisp, brilliant, transparent color to your clear products and light, clean tints to your opaque products. They are great for coloring soaps, lotions, creams, powders, salts, etc. They can bleed if used in high concentrations in your products so do not over use and test in small batches. The color may not be very stable under alkaline conditions or if exposed to light, therefore, soaps made with FD & C dyes may fade.
Oil Soluble Dyes, like our Oxides & Ultramarines, can be used for a variety of oil based formulations.
Inorganic Color Additives: Pigments, Iron Oxides, Manganese, Ultramarines, Titanium Dioxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide (Iron Blue), Chromium Oxide
Inorganic Color Additives are regulated by the FDA to ensure that they do not contain harmful levels of heavy metals. Although Iron Oxides can be found in nature (rocks, dirt), they contain heavy metals such as lead so Iron Oxides for cosmetics are synthetically manufactured. They produce "earthy" tones and never bright, true colors. You can achieve beautiful muted colors with these pigments.
Iron Oxides are the most widely used of the Inorganic Pigments. There are 3 basic colors - Red, Black and Yellow Oxides. From these 3 oxides and the addition of Titanium Dioxide, you can achieve any shade of brown (Skin Tones). So if you are trying to create a skin tone foundation, blush, bronzer, this is where you start. They are stable under normal pH ranges and have excellent light stability however, they should not be subjected to high heat as the colors may change slightly.
Manganese Violet is not stable in alkaline environments so it should not be used in soap and it decomposes in water so it should not be used in water based formulations. It can be used to tint oil based products, and will give a nice mauve to deep purple tone. Do not use in lip products.
Ultramarines are mostly used in bar soap and cosmetics. They are not stable in acid conditions under a pH of 7 and will release hydrogen sulfide when exposed to acid (which will smell like rotten eggs!). They do very well in alkaline products such as soap. They are light stable.
Titanium Dioxide is used to lighten other pigments and lends opacity to formulations. Use to whiten soaps and other formulations which have undesired yellow tints.
Ferric Ferrocyanide or Iron Blue fades in alkalinity and is not for use in lip products, We do not carry an iron blue pigment, however, it is commonly found in many of our blue toned Pearlescent Micas.
Chromium Oxide Green (yellowish green) and Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green (aqua green) have excellent stability in bar soaps but tend to be heavy and difficult to disperse so they will settle out if used in a liquid formulation.
Pearlescent Micas:
Micas use light reflection, refraction, and transmission to exhibit their effects much like a prism creates various colors as light passes through it. They are made by coating small platelets of mica with various dyes and pigments. The size of the mica particle is measured in microns and determines the luster of the mica (the ability of the mica to bend and reflect light).
Smaller sizes will give a pearlescent effect with a smooth sheen. Medium size particles give a satin effect. Large particle sizes give a sparkle effect. The smaller the particle size is, the more opaque it will make your product. So you can use the fine micas to opacify transparent soaps. Some micas are first coated with an iron oxide which absorbs light and then it is coated with an interference color to reflect light. The result is a two-tone mica which changes color as it turns. Micas can be heavy and therefore may settle out in low viscosity. To use in soaps, pour your soaps at cooler temperatures as they will suspend the micas better. To achieve the real effect of a mica in soap, the particles need to be aligned in the same direction - you can try pouring your soap and then "combing" the surface of the soap in one direction using a spatula. You will get different results when you add micas to colored verses non-colored soaps. Having a background color enhances the effects of the mica.
Using Color Additives:
To use Organic Dyes, you need to first mix with water if you purchased a powder form. Add your liquid dye drop by drop to your product and stir until the desired color is achieved. These will not work in oils or oil based products like lip balm.
To use Inorganic Pigments, you will need to first disperse the pigment in oil and then blend the pre-disperse pigment into your batch. These will not work in water formulations such as body sprays or low viscosity formulations such as body oils.
To use Pearlescent Micas, you can add them to a dry medium and stir (such as salts, or powders) or disperse them in oil or water and blend into your batch. When adding to soap, you can disperse it in a little bit of liquid soap first and then blend into the whole batch.
Using Color Additives can be tricky even for someone with a chemistry background and ALWAYS requires testing. Colors may bleed, fade, speckle, change over time, not result in the color you expected, etc. Colors will be affected by the color of your base, any fragrances used, other ingredients, pH and other variables. We cannot provide all the information necessary for the proper use of color additives here and therefore we encourage you to do your own research. Color additives should not be used directly on the skin. Even micas should be combined with fillers and then properly preserved for making cosmetic blushes, etc. We do not provide any technical support for the formulation of eye and face cosmetics. DO NOT use any of these Color Additives for making eye products without proper technical knowledge. When making lip products, double check to make sure the product can be used in lip formulations.
Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=candleandsoap&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fromnaturewithlove.com%2Flibrary%2Fcoloradditives.asp
Titanium Dioxide is used to lighten other pigments and lends opacity to formulations. Use to whiten soaps and other formulations which have undesired yellow tints.
Ferric Ferrocyanide or Iron Blue fades in alkalinity and is not for use in lip products, We do not carry an iron blue pigment, however, it is commonly found in many of our blue toned Pearlescent Micas.
Chromium Oxide Green (yellowish green) and Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green (aqua green) have excellent stability in bar soaps but tend to be heavy and difficult to disperse so they will settle out if used in a liquid formulation.
Pearlescent Micas:
Micas use light reflection, refraction, and transmission to exhibit their effects much like a prism creates various colors as light passes through it. They are made by coating small platelets of mica with various dyes and pigments. The size of the mica particle is measured in microns and determines the luster of the mica (the ability of the mica to bend and reflect light).
Smaller sizes will give a pearlescent effect with a smooth sheen. Medium size particles give a satin effect. Large particle sizes give a sparkle effect. The smaller the particle size is, the more opaque it will make your product. So you can use the fine micas to opacify transparent soaps. Some micas are first coated with an iron oxide which absorbs light and then it is coated with an interference color to reflect light. The result is a two-tone mica which changes color as it turns. Micas can be heavy and therefore may settle out in low viscosity. To use in soaps, pour your soaps at cooler temperatures as they will suspend the micas better. To achieve the real effect of a mica in soap, the particles need to be aligned in the same direction - you can try pouring your soap and then "combing" the surface of the soap in one direction using a spatula. You will get different results when you add micas to colored verses non-colored soaps. Having a background color enhances the effects of the mica.
Using Color Additives:
To use Organic Dyes, you need to first mix with water if you purchased a powder form. Add your liquid dye drop by drop to your product and stir until the desired color is achieved. These will not work in oils or oil based products like lip balm.
To use Inorganic Pigments, you will need to first disperse the pigment in oil and then blend the pre-disperse pigment into your batch. These will not work in water formulations such as body sprays or low viscosity formulations such as body oils.
To use Pearlescent Micas, you can add them to a dry medium and stir (such as salts, or powders) or disperse them in oil or water and blend into your batch. When adding to soap, you can disperse it in a little bit of liquid soap first and then blend into the whole batch.
Using Color Additives can be tricky even for someone with a chemistry background and ALWAYS requires testing. Colors may bleed, fade, speckle, change over time, not result in the color you expected, etc. Colors will be affected by the color of your base, any fragrances used, other ingredients, pH and other variables. We cannot provide all the information necessary for the proper use of color additives here and therefore we encourage you to do your own research. Color additives should not be used directly on the skin. Even micas should be combined with fillers and then properly preserved for making cosmetic blushes, etc. We do not provide any technical support for the formulation of eye and face cosmetics. DO NOT use any of these Color Additives for making eye products without proper technical knowledge. When making lip products, double check to make sure the product can be used in lip formulations.
Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=candleandsoap&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fromnaturewithlove.com%2Flibrary%2Fcoloradditives.asp
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Coloring for Handmade Soaps
By Sarah Freeland
There are several different soap coloring options that are available to soap makers and crafters. The first types of dyes that you can use to color your soap are natural soap colorants. These soap colorants use natural ingredients to tint your soap. For example, Turmeric can be used to give your soap a golden glow, Moroccan Red Clay can be used to give your soap a brick red color, and alfalfa can be used to give your soap a green color. Coloring options also include micas. Micas can be classified as both a natural colorant as well as a manufactured colorant. This is because the basic mica is mined form natural sources, however, it is then coated with laboratory created coloring agents on one side to create a shimmering effect. Micas are best suited for coloring clear soaps. In addition to these two soap coloring options you can also use FD&C colorants. These colorants are made in a laboratory and they do not come from natural sources. Because these colorants can be mass produced they are generally inexpensive and widely available. When selecting a soap pigment you will want to take into consideration several factors. First you will want to choose a soap coloring option that is right for the type of soap you plan on making.
Secondly , you want to a coloring agent that is right for the product image that you are creating. And finally you want to select a coloring agent that will produce the type of color and the shade that you are interesting in.
For more information on how to make homemade soap as well as soap making recipes visit the http://www.pureandnaturalsoaps.com./Check out the soap making forum to discuss techniques, share ideas and post your favorite soap and candle making recipes.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Freeland http://EzineArticles.com/?Handmade-Soap-Coloring-Options&id=376798 and http://theadorabartra.tiltblog.se/2007/10/02/handmade-soap-coloring-options/
There are several different soap coloring options that are available to soap makers and crafters. The first types of dyes that you can use to color your soap are natural soap colorants. These soap colorants use natural ingredients to tint your soap. For example, Turmeric can be used to give your soap a golden glow, Moroccan Red Clay can be used to give your soap a brick red color, and alfalfa can be used to give your soap a green color. Coloring options also include micas. Micas can be classified as both a natural colorant as well as a manufactured colorant. This is because the basic mica is mined form natural sources, however, it is then coated with laboratory created coloring agents on one side to create a shimmering effect. Micas are best suited for coloring clear soaps. In addition to these two soap coloring options you can also use FD&C colorants. These colorants are made in a laboratory and they do not come from natural sources. Because these colorants can be mass produced they are generally inexpensive and widely available. When selecting a soap pigment you will want to take into consideration several factors. First you will want to choose a soap coloring option that is right for the type of soap you plan on making.
Secondly , you want to a coloring agent that is right for the product image that you are creating. And finally you want to select a coloring agent that will produce the type of color and the shade that you are interesting in.
For more information on how to make homemade soap as well as soap making recipes visit the http://www.pureandnaturalsoaps.com./Check out the soap making forum to discuss techniques, share ideas and post your favorite soap and candle making recipes.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Freeland http://EzineArticles.com/?Handmade-Soap-Coloring-Options&id=376798 and http://theadorabartra.tiltblog.se/2007/10/02/handmade-soap-coloring-options/
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Color Bleeding
Definition: Color bleed occurs in melt and pour soap when the color you've added doesn't stay where it's supposed to - when the color in an embed or section of of the soap "bleeds" or "migrates" into the section or part next to it after it is made - usually after couple of weeks. The blue in the blue layer starts to "leak" into the white layer...or the red in the hearts (pictured) starts to bleed into the clear soap base.
This happens primarily with liquid dye-based colors - but can happen with any colorant that is water soluble. Red is often the most problematic. Non-water-soluble colorants like oxides, pigments and micas will not bleed, but they do not provide bright, vibrant colors, and aren't as transparent. The red of an oxide is more of a brick red; the yellow, a mustard yellow. Several companies sell what are called "non-bleeding" colors. I have had mixed results with them.
Again, the key factor is whether or not the dye is water soluble. If it is...it will mix in well, be clear, and likely more vibrant. But, it can bleed...
Using a pigment, mica or oxide won't bleed, but the colors won't be as vibrant.
The new "non-bleed" colors are complex combinations of dyes, pigments and polymers. Very interesting things.
Here is a list of Non-bleeding Colors Vendors
Go Planet Earth (http://www.goplanetearth.com/)
Brambleberry (http://www.brambleberry.com/)
Ponte Vedra (http://www.pvsoap.com/)
More Soap Colorant Info
Soap Teacher (http://www.soapteacher.com/)
FNWL
I hope this information helps. If anyone finds another company that sells non-bleeding colorants for Melt and Pour Soaps, please let us know. Thanks.
Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapglossary/g/colorbleed.htm
This happens primarily with liquid dye-based colors - but can happen with any colorant that is water soluble. Red is often the most problematic. Non-water-soluble colorants like oxides, pigments and micas will not bleed, but they do not provide bright, vibrant colors, and aren't as transparent. The red of an oxide is more of a brick red; the yellow, a mustard yellow. Several companies sell what are called "non-bleeding" colors. I have had mixed results with them.
Again, the key factor is whether or not the dye is water soluble. If it is...it will mix in well, be clear, and likely more vibrant. But, it can bleed...
Using a pigment, mica or oxide won't bleed, but the colors won't be as vibrant.
The new "non-bleed" colors are complex combinations of dyes, pigments and polymers. Very interesting things.
Here is a list of Non-bleeding Colors Vendors
Go Planet Earth (http://www.goplanetearth.com/)
Brambleberry (http://www.brambleberry.com/)
Ponte Vedra (http://www.pvsoap.com/)
More Soap Colorant Info
Soap Teacher (http://www.soapteacher.com/)
FNWL
I hope this information helps. If anyone finds another company that sells non-bleeding colorants for Melt and Pour Soaps, please let us know. Thanks.
Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapglossary/g/colorbleed.htm
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