Many of you may have heard of Germaben II as a preservative to you in some of your lotion and cream recipes. According to Majestic Mountain Sage, Germaben is a complete perservative, effective against many kinds of bacteria, yeast and mold. It is a colorless liquid with a slight scent. The odor is not objectionable. It is used as a preservative mostly in lotions and cream but not in soap. If you would like to learn more about a few considerations and a recipe for using Germaben II, then read the article, How to use Germaben II on Majestic Mountain Sage's website.
Showing posts with label Preservatives. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Preservatives. Show all posts
Saturday, July 28, 2012
Monday, June 25, 2012
Soap Queen's Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives
Hope you find the information helpful. If you missed previous Soap Queen Talk It Out Segments, check out segments on colorants, bath bombs colorants, and melt and pour soap. Sounds like this series is a hit and Anne-Marie may post other topics in the future. So tune. Same soap time, Same soap channel.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Preservative: Cosmocil CQ
If you are concerned about some perservatives having parabens, I found another preservative that you can chose from. I have never used Cosmocial CQ before so I do not know how well it works. I have always used Germall. Give it a try if you like and let us know what you think.
Cosmocil cq has recently received world-wide approval and is now available (from "lotioncrafter" and "snowdrift farm"). this new preservative is parabens free and does not release formaldehyde. Like phenonip, cosmocil cq can be used at higher temperatures -- up to 284°f (140°c), but unlike phenonip, it is low-odor so you won't have to deal with camouflaging the smell. Unfortunately, cosmocil cq is only water soluble (add to the water phase), so unlike phenonip, it's not miscible in oil and can't be used in an all-oil produce (e.g. salt/sugar scrubs). the usage rate ranges from .5% to 1.5%, with the typical usage rate being 1% of your total formula. Cosmocil cq is composed of and should be labeled as: polyaminopropyl biguanide.
For more information about preservatives for your body products, check out this link http://home.earthlink.net/~skinesscentuals/Preserve.htm.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Choosing antioxidants and preservatives
What are anti-oxidants and preservatives?
In order to understand what anti-oxidants and preservatives are for, and how they should be used, it is important to first "digest" a few preliminary concepts.
First of all, there is a lot of misleading, and often deliberately wrong information being circulated among natural skin care makers. Creating truly natural, skin friendly cosmetics requires a long and complex learning curve, (which goes well beyond the common habit of "posting a question to the mailing list"), together with a more responsible approach to selecting all the ingredients for handmade skin care. Leaving out synthetic preservatives, and then maybe adding synthetic fragrances "because my customers want a peach scented lotion", doesn't automatically guarantee being in the position to affirm that this product is "completely natural and therefore more skin friendly". Rather, it is not uncommon to find that the skin un-friendliness of some commercial (and handmade) products is directly related to the use of inappropriate fragrancing agents.
Secondly, these misleading statements have regrettably brought forward further confusion about nature, application scope and usage of some important ingredients. In particular, it is sadly common to hear the terms anti-oxidant and preservative being used interchangeably, with frustrating consequences especially for those who find themselves unwillingly opening a "can of worms" by bringing up the subject on some mailing lists. The truth is, anti-oxidants and preservatives are two completely different "beasts", with different nature, different application scope and different usage criteria.
Anti-oxidants
Anti-oxidants are substances that inhibit oxidation. Animal fats and vegetable oils are made up by chemical structures called triglycerides, where one molecule of glycerol is bonded with three molecules of fatty acids, which in turn consist of hydrocarbon chains of variable length. Oils and fats also contain variable amounts of free fatty acids - i.e, fatty acid molecules that are not bonded with any glycerol molecule. The fatty acids in oils and fats can combine with oxidising agents (such as oxigen, for instance, which is present in the air and in water), and oxidise. In other words, the oil (or fat) may turn rancid. Adding an anti-oxidant helps stop or slow down this natural oxidation process, and prolongs the shelf life of the oils. Two "classes" of anti-oxidants are available for manufacturers of natural skin care products:
Substances that, by inhibiting oxidation, effectively prolong the shelf life of oils, and therefore keep oil-based applications fresher for longer periods. These include several types of rosemary extracts, the best known being Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, or ROE, and also citrus seed extracts. Because citrus seed extracts can have negative side effects, rosemary extract is usually preferred. ROE is always best added to the oils before heating, as it also has the effect of impairing dissociation of the fatty acid molecules caused by higher temperatures.
Substances that protect skin cells from the damaging effects of oxidisation, and are typically added as active ingredients. These include Vitamin C, Vitamin E and beta-carotene.
Whenever formulating a new product, it is important to establish whether an anti-oxidant is needed for one or the other reason, and consequently choose the most appropriate. Most importantly, remember that anti-oxidants have no effect on fungi, bacteria, yeast and other living things that may corrupt emulsions and any other water-based cosmetic.
Preservatives
Preservatives are substances that kill bacteria and fungi (or at the very minimum make it very difficult for "living things" to survive), and have no effect on the shelf life of the oils. Bacteria, fungi, yeast and other potentially dangerous microorganisms typically avoid waterless compounds (such as balms, salves, pomades and oil-only blends) and also substances with a relatively high pH (such as soap), but thrive in humid environments. For this reason, soaps and oil-based skin care applications do not need preservatives - but unlike these, creams, lotions and any other compound where water is present require adding a preservative if the shelf life and integrity of the product need to be extended further than 2 or 3 weeks.
It is important to understand that the efficacy of preservatives relies, by definition, on their ability to kill live cells; in other words, their toxicity is an unavoidable component of their reason of being. A number of natural extracts, plants and essential oils contain substances that have the power to effectively kill bacteria, yeast and fungi; however, in many cases these substances are or can be toxic for humans, too. A typical example are citrus or grapefruit seed extracts: although these have natural antimicrobial properties, some of their constituents are thought to be responsible for life-threatening hormonal imbalances. Also, citrus seed extracts are not approved for cosmetic use in Europe and in Japan, and are therefore not an option in those countries.
In the last few months, a new type of natural preservative has appeared on the market. Similar in look, feel and scent to an essential oil blend, and made by combining active fractions of essential oils, this new preservative system seems to have the potential to address the needs of those skin care manufacturers who want their products to be completely natural - yet, being such a new product, some time might be required before its efficacy and possible contraindications are proven once for all.
Among the synthetic preservatives available for handmade skin care products, paraben-based systems seem to be particularly controversial. A large number of articles, books and so-called "expert" opinions point to paraben-based preservative systems as being responsible for the "skin unfriendliness" of many industrial products. However, in-depth medical and scientifical researches show that paraben-based preservatives are by far less dangerous, both for the skin, and for the environment, than most other types of preservatives, such as for instance those that fall into the "formaldehyde donors" category.
Conclusions
When it comes to choosing the right preservative for your lovingly handmade skin care treats, deciding whether you want to rely on a completely natural system or not is a matter of personal choice, which requires a more thorough approach than just "following the trend", and should never be taken lightly. In general, the safest and wisest option is to purchase preservatives from reputable suppliers, who can offer advice on what to choose, why and how to use it (and this, just as with any other ingredient, for that matter!)
As already mentioned, anti-oxidants and preservatives are not unavoidable in skin care preparations; if you are making creams, lotions and balms for personal and family use, and if you are prepared to take on full responsibility for possibly negative side effects, then you can certainly avoid them completely, and be sure that your preparations are just as natural as possible.
On the other hand, preservatives and anti-oxidants can hardly be avoided if you want to sell your products. We have already hinted to the fact the debate on preservatives and anti-oxidants, especially among those who aim for "natural cosmetics", is fierce - and hot are also the discussions about synthetic fragrances versus essential oils, or natural soap versus Melt & Pour bases. We believe that the only way to placate the altercations and give both manufacturers and consumers the power to decide for themselves what is good for them, is to fully understand the implications of using each ingredient, and commit ourselves to appropriate "market niches" based on what we have responsibly and consciously chosen.
Where to buy preservatives for natural skin care
Source: http://www.soapnaturally.org/natural_skincare/preservatives.html
In order to understand what anti-oxidants and preservatives are for, and how they should be used, it is important to first "digest" a few preliminary concepts.
First of all, there is a lot of misleading, and often deliberately wrong information being circulated among natural skin care makers. Creating truly natural, skin friendly cosmetics requires a long and complex learning curve, (which goes well beyond the common habit of "posting a question to the mailing list"), together with a more responsible approach to selecting all the ingredients for handmade skin care. Leaving out synthetic preservatives, and then maybe adding synthetic fragrances "because my customers want a peach scented lotion", doesn't automatically guarantee being in the position to affirm that this product is "completely natural and therefore more skin friendly". Rather, it is not uncommon to find that the skin un-friendliness of some commercial (and handmade) products is directly related to the use of inappropriate fragrancing agents.
Secondly, these misleading statements have regrettably brought forward further confusion about nature, application scope and usage of some important ingredients. In particular, it is sadly common to hear the terms anti-oxidant and preservative being used interchangeably, with frustrating consequences especially for those who find themselves unwillingly opening a "can of worms" by bringing up the subject on some mailing lists. The truth is, anti-oxidants and preservatives are two completely different "beasts", with different nature, different application scope and different usage criteria.
Anti-oxidants
Anti-oxidants are substances that inhibit oxidation. Animal fats and vegetable oils are made up by chemical structures called triglycerides, where one molecule of glycerol is bonded with three molecules of fatty acids, which in turn consist of hydrocarbon chains of variable length. Oils and fats also contain variable amounts of free fatty acids - i.e, fatty acid molecules that are not bonded with any glycerol molecule. The fatty acids in oils and fats can combine with oxidising agents (such as oxigen, for instance, which is present in the air and in water), and oxidise. In other words, the oil (or fat) may turn rancid. Adding an anti-oxidant helps stop or slow down this natural oxidation process, and prolongs the shelf life of the oils. Two "classes" of anti-oxidants are available for manufacturers of natural skin care products:
Substances that, by inhibiting oxidation, effectively prolong the shelf life of oils, and therefore keep oil-based applications fresher for longer periods. These include several types of rosemary extracts, the best known being Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, or ROE, and also citrus seed extracts. Because citrus seed extracts can have negative side effects, rosemary extract is usually preferred. ROE is always best added to the oils before heating, as it also has the effect of impairing dissociation of the fatty acid molecules caused by higher temperatures.
Substances that protect skin cells from the damaging effects of oxidisation, and are typically added as active ingredients. These include Vitamin C, Vitamin E and beta-carotene.
Whenever formulating a new product, it is important to establish whether an anti-oxidant is needed for one or the other reason, and consequently choose the most appropriate. Most importantly, remember that anti-oxidants have no effect on fungi, bacteria, yeast and other living things that may corrupt emulsions and any other water-based cosmetic.
Preservatives
Preservatives are substances that kill bacteria and fungi (or at the very minimum make it very difficult for "living things" to survive), and have no effect on the shelf life of the oils. Bacteria, fungi, yeast and other potentially dangerous microorganisms typically avoid waterless compounds (such as balms, salves, pomades and oil-only blends) and also substances with a relatively high pH (such as soap), but thrive in humid environments. For this reason, soaps and oil-based skin care applications do not need preservatives - but unlike these, creams, lotions and any other compound where water is present require adding a preservative if the shelf life and integrity of the product need to be extended further than 2 or 3 weeks.
It is important to understand that the efficacy of preservatives relies, by definition, on their ability to kill live cells; in other words, their toxicity is an unavoidable component of their reason of being. A number of natural extracts, plants and essential oils contain substances that have the power to effectively kill bacteria, yeast and fungi; however, in many cases these substances are or can be toxic for humans, too. A typical example are citrus or grapefruit seed extracts: although these have natural antimicrobial properties, some of their constituents are thought to be responsible for life-threatening hormonal imbalances. Also, citrus seed extracts are not approved for cosmetic use in Europe and in Japan, and are therefore not an option in those countries.
In the last few months, a new type of natural preservative has appeared on the market. Similar in look, feel and scent to an essential oil blend, and made by combining active fractions of essential oils, this new preservative system seems to have the potential to address the needs of those skin care manufacturers who want their products to be completely natural - yet, being such a new product, some time might be required before its efficacy and possible contraindications are proven once for all.
Among the synthetic preservatives available for handmade skin care products, paraben-based systems seem to be particularly controversial. A large number of articles, books and so-called "expert" opinions point to paraben-based preservative systems as being responsible for the "skin unfriendliness" of many industrial products. However, in-depth medical and scientifical researches show that paraben-based preservatives are by far less dangerous, both for the skin, and for the environment, than most other types of preservatives, such as for instance those that fall into the "formaldehyde donors" category.
Conclusions
When it comes to choosing the right preservative for your lovingly handmade skin care treats, deciding whether you want to rely on a completely natural system or not is a matter of personal choice, which requires a more thorough approach than just "following the trend", and should never be taken lightly. In general, the safest and wisest option is to purchase preservatives from reputable suppliers, who can offer advice on what to choose, why and how to use it (and this, just as with any other ingredient, for that matter!)
As already mentioned, anti-oxidants and preservatives are not unavoidable in skin care preparations; if you are making creams, lotions and balms for personal and family use, and if you are prepared to take on full responsibility for possibly negative side effects, then you can certainly avoid them completely, and be sure that your preparations are just as natural as possible.
On the other hand, preservatives and anti-oxidants can hardly be avoided if you want to sell your products. We have already hinted to the fact the debate on preservatives and anti-oxidants, especially among those who aim for "natural cosmetics", is fierce - and hot are also the discussions about synthetic fragrances versus essential oils, or natural soap versus Melt & Pour bases. We believe that the only way to placate the altercations and give both manufacturers and consumers the power to decide for themselves what is good for them, is to fully understand the implications of using each ingredient, and commit ourselves to appropriate "market niches" based on what we have responsibly and consciously chosen.
Where to buy preservatives for natural skin care
Source: http://www.soapnaturally.org/natural_skincare/preservatives.html
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Natural Preservatives
There is so much out there about preservatives, it can be overwhelming. And it is such a debated topic. I found this article on the subject of natural preservatives (http://www.botanicalworks.com/NaturalPreservatives.htm) that discusses using some essential oils as preservatives. Now I have to be honest I do not know how effective these have worked since I have never used essential oils as a perservative in my products. I am sure that it may extend the life of the product, but probably not by much. Even if the essential oil has properties you probably have to use so much to make a difference. Then again using too much essential oil can cause skin irritations.
But the best thing to use is a synethic perservative in your waterbased products such as lotions and creams, because it will definately keep your lotion fresh beyond the 1 to 2 weeks with out it.To me it seems that adding a small amount of a synthetic preservative in a lotion or cream recipe is well worth the shelf life. Some of the most common preservatives are Germall® (comes in powder or liquid form) , Germaben II, Optiphen™, and Phenonip which can be found through Lotion Crafter (http://www.lotioncrafter.com/store/Preservatives-c-257.html).
A big concern in perservatives is parabens. There are some preservatives you can purchase that are paraban free. Just check with the manufacturer. If you would like to learn more about parabens, here is a link that that I found that may explain things - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parabens. On the internet there are many more articles that you can read on this topic.
There are alot of different recipes out there using different preservatives. And I do not know what the author of the recipe chose that particular preservative or if you can subsitute one preservative over another. And if certain preservatives interact with certain carrier oils. But, I did find this link that may help clarify that information- http://home.earthlink.net/~skinesscentuals/Preserve.htm. In addition to that information, here are some more links on perservatives- http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=199218.
I have also seen some books on making organic body products and the author claims that their lotions creations last a long time (up to 30 days). I would say be very skeptical on these claims. One of the best pieces of advice that was given to me was to test the recipe with the preservative. And then test them with a home test kit. You can purchase a kit from Snowdrift Farms (http://www.snowdriftfarms.com/). But to be certain your products should be challenged tested by a reputable company.
Hope this information clarifies the myths about preservatives. I know the subject can get overwhelming.
But the best thing to use is a synethic perservative in your waterbased products such as lotions and creams, because it will definately keep your lotion fresh beyond the 1 to 2 weeks with out it.To me it seems that adding a small amount of a synthetic preservative in a lotion or cream recipe is well worth the shelf life. Some of the most common preservatives are Germall® (comes in powder or liquid form) , Germaben II, Optiphen™, and Phenonip which can be found through Lotion Crafter (http://www.lotioncrafter.com/store/Preservatives-c-257.html).
A big concern in perservatives is parabens. There are some preservatives you can purchase that are paraban free. Just check with the manufacturer. If you would like to learn more about parabens, here is a link that that I found that may explain things - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parabens. On the internet there are many more articles that you can read on this topic.
There are alot of different recipes out there using different preservatives. And I do not know what the author of the recipe chose that particular preservative or if you can subsitute one preservative over another. And if certain preservatives interact with certain carrier oils. But, I did find this link that may help clarify that information- http://home.earthlink.net/~skinesscentuals/Preserve.htm. In addition to that information, here are some more links on perservatives- http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=199218.
I have also seen some books on making organic body products and the author claims that their lotions creations last a long time (up to 30 days). I would say be very skeptical on these claims. One of the best pieces of advice that was given to me was to test the recipe with the preservative. And then test them with a home test kit. You can purchase a kit from Snowdrift Farms (http://www.snowdriftfarms.com/). But to be certain your products should be challenged tested by a reputable company.
Hope this information clarifies the myths about preservatives. I know the subject can get overwhelming.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Using Germaben II
Germaben II is a complete perservative, effective against many kinds of bacteria, yeast and mold. It is a colorless liquid with a slight scent. The odor is not objectionable. Germaben II is used in lotions, creams, hair care products and other cosmetics, but not used in soap.
A few considerations need to be observed when using Germaben II.
(1) the pH of the lotion, or other product, must be 7.5 or lower
the amount of oil used should be no greater than 25%
(2) Germaben II is added *after* complete emulsification with good stirring
lotion solution should be less than 175°F when adding Germaben II and is prefered to be 140 degrees or less.
(3) usage rate is .3% to 1%
(4) cleanliness is vital to making lotions and other cosmetics never add borax, ammonia, baking soda or other alkaline products to the lotion. If an emulsifier is needed please use Emulsifying Wax (can be found in the catalog).
Let's go through a quick recipe so I can explain the process and you can understand more fully.
Joyfully Westra Thick Cream
1 gram Citric Acid
3.5 grams Liquid Glycerin
4.5 grams Stearic Acid
5 grams Emulsifying Wax
20 grams oil (liquid at room temperature)
65 grams purified water
0.5 grams Germaben II
0.5 grams Fragrance Oil
All ingredients are weighed. No exceptions will be offered from us or through our web site. Please get a good scale.
Combine Citric Acid, Liquid Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Emulsifying Wax, oil and water. Weigh the preservative and fragrance separately. Heat mixture until temperature reaches approximately 180°F. This is enough to melt the wax. Stir to ensure complete emulsification. You may use an immersion blender, otherwise known as milkshake blender, stick blender, etc. As mixture cools it will start to thicken. Add fragrance and preservative and stir well. Pour into sterilized containers.
***Please remember:
The preservative and fragrance are weighed separately and set aside until needed.
If you choose to sell your creations we advise you first read the Cosmetics Handbook from the FDA. Second, your lotions will need to be challenge tested. For a challenge test you will need to employ the services of an independent lab. They will put a known number of germies in your mixture and then wait to see if they can grow.
When using Germaben II wear Goggles and Gloves. Wash hands well if contact is made with preservative. In the event the preservative enters the eye flush with water for 15 minutes then seek the advice of trained medical professionals.
Germaben II contains:
propylene glycol 56%
diazolidinyl urea 30%
methylparaben 11%
propylparaben 3%
Source: http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php3?.State=Display&id=3
A few considerations need to be observed when using Germaben II.
(1) the pH of the lotion, or other product, must be 7.5 or lower
the amount of oil used should be no greater than 25%
(2) Germaben II is added *after* complete emulsification with good stirring
lotion solution should be less than 175°F when adding Germaben II and is prefered to be 140 degrees or less.
(3) usage rate is .3% to 1%
(4) cleanliness is vital to making lotions and other cosmetics never add borax, ammonia, baking soda or other alkaline products to the lotion. If an emulsifier is needed please use Emulsifying Wax (can be found in the catalog).
Let's go through a quick recipe so I can explain the process and you can understand more fully.
Joyfully Westra Thick Cream
1 gram Citric Acid
3.5 grams Liquid Glycerin
4.5 grams Stearic Acid
5 grams Emulsifying Wax
20 grams oil (liquid at room temperature)
65 grams purified water
0.5 grams Germaben II
0.5 grams Fragrance Oil
All ingredients are weighed. No exceptions will be offered from us or through our web site. Please get a good scale.
Combine Citric Acid, Liquid Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Emulsifying Wax, oil and water. Weigh the preservative and fragrance separately. Heat mixture until temperature reaches approximately 180°F. This is enough to melt the wax. Stir to ensure complete emulsification. You may use an immersion blender, otherwise known as milkshake blender, stick blender, etc. As mixture cools it will start to thicken. Add fragrance and preservative and stir well. Pour into sterilized containers.
***Please remember:
The preservative and fragrance are weighed separately and set aside until needed.
If you choose to sell your creations we advise you first read the Cosmetics Handbook from the FDA. Second, your lotions will need to be challenge tested. For a challenge test you will need to employ the services of an independent lab. They will put a known number of germies in your mixture and then wait to see if they can grow.
When using Germaben II wear Goggles and Gloves. Wash hands well if contact is made with preservative. In the event the preservative enters the eye flush with water for 15 minutes then seek the advice of trained medical professionals.
Germaben II contains:
propylene glycol 56%
diazolidinyl urea 30%
methylparaben 11%
propylparaben 3%
Source: http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php3?.State=Display&id=3
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