Showing posts with label Candle - Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Candle - Tips. Show all posts
Wednesday, July 11, 2012
How to Conduct a Basic Burn Test
Have you started making candles as your craft? And you are wondering how long your candles burn? On the internet there are probably a variety of articles on how to determine your candles will burn. And the type of wax and size of wick will effect how long your candles will burn. So how do you conduct a burn test? I found this article on How to Conduct a Basic Burn Test that can get you started. So start testing because this information will be important if you start selling your creations.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Choosing Safe Containers for Container Candles
In the past when I made container candles, I tried to be really creative. I have found single teacups from retail establishments such as Marshall's and Ross to make really cute decorative items.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Recycle Wax Scraps
If you are new to candlemaking and you are wondering what to do with your with your wax scraps? Do not throw them out! You can recycle the wax and use it for another project. But you are asking how to do that. Well here are some tips to get you started.
(1) Separate the scraps into an unscented/uncolored pile and a scented/colored pile. I would also recommend keeping the similiar types of wax in the same pile (ie beeswax, parafin etc) if you are using different types of wax. With your scented wax, coordinated similiar scent families together ie citrus, floral etc.
(2) Starting with the unscented/uncolored pile, trim off as much of the burned wick as possible. Remove any wick tabs or labels as well.
(3) Brush or scrape off any dirt or dirty areas.
(4) Put the pieces in your melt pot and melt them down.
(5) Once melted, remove all of the wicks and wick tabs from the melted wax with a chopstick, tongs or fork.
(6) If there is a lot of debris still in the wax, you can filter it through an old flour sifter, or other type of strainer.
(7) Once the wax is clean, either pour it into a tub or pail for later use, or fragrance and color it and make candles as you normally would.
(8) Now, if your wax IS colored and scented, you can still reuse it, you just have to figure in the extra color and scent. Mixes of colors will usually come out some shade of brown. Mixes of scents can be wonderfully complex, or just plain awful. So try to keep it simple when your are first starting out. Also I would try to keep the colors in the same families together. You may come out with some strange color that your may not like.
Would like to hear from anyone who has recycled their wax for other projects. How did it turn out? Do you have any other suggestions that might help in this situation?
(1) Separate the scraps into an unscented/uncolored pile and a scented/colored pile. I would also recommend keeping the similiar types of wax in the same pile (ie beeswax, parafin etc) if you are using different types of wax. With your scented wax, coordinated similiar scent families together ie citrus, floral etc.
(2) Starting with the unscented/uncolored pile, trim off as much of the burned wick as possible. Remove any wick tabs or labels as well.
(3) Brush or scrape off any dirt or dirty areas.
(4) Put the pieces in your melt pot and melt them down.
(5) Once melted, remove all of the wicks and wick tabs from the melted wax with a chopstick, tongs or fork.
(6) If there is a lot of debris still in the wax, you can filter it through an old flour sifter, or other type of strainer.
(7) Once the wax is clean, either pour it into a tub or pail for later use, or fragrance and color it and make candles as you normally would.
(8) Now, if your wax IS colored and scented, you can still reuse it, you just have to figure in the extra color and scent. Mixes of colors will usually come out some shade of brown. Mixes of scents can be wonderfully complex, or just plain awful. So try to keep it simple when your are first starting out. Also I would try to keep the colors in the same families together. You may come out with some strange color that your may not like.
Would like to hear from anyone who has recycled their wax for other projects. How did it turn out? Do you have any other suggestions that might help in this situation?
Monday, May 16, 2011
Melting Point, Pour Point, Flash Point
by Shanda Lynn Markham, BellaOnline's Candlemaking Editor
Measurements are a key component in candle making. For the candle maker wanting to pursue selling their candles it is critical. To sell candles, you must be able to re-create the formula and if you have not measured or written down everything, how can you duplicate it? Although I like some forms of math, this kind just gives me headaches! It is my least favorite aspect of candle making.
Weight vs. volume is one of the first things to focus on. To refresh our memories weight is the actual volume of the product and volume is how much space it takes up. With that being said, can you see why it is important? Fragrance oils have different densities. For example, 1 oz. of patchouli may look less in a container compared to 1oz. of strawberry, but in reality they weight the same, one is just denser than the other. For this reason, weight is the more accurate measure in candle making. If you use 1 oz. by volume of a denser fragrant it is going to affect your final product. It could be too much and cause the candle to sweat. I always recommend weighing all LIQUID ingredients by weight.
On the other hand, this reasoning does not hold true with “dry” ingredients. For example, 1 tsp. of Vybar 260 weighs only 1/10 of an oz., not 1/6 of an ounce. (Water is used to determine how much 1 tsp. weighs). So if you went by weight on it, you would in reality be using too much Vybar. Confused yet? It is important to remember that the common weight ratios are measured using water. Some ingredients are going to be lighter than water and others heavier. 1 lb. of wax is equivalent to 20 oz. when melted, not 16 oz. I know it can be too confusing so I am going to go over some common measurements and how to change your ratios.
1 lb. = 16 oz. = 454 g = 454 ml = 32 Tbsp. (by volume) = 96 tsp. (by volume)
1 oz. = 28.4 g = 2 Tbsp. (by volume) = 16 tsp. (by volume)
1 cup (by volume) = 8 oz. (by volume) = ½ lb. (by volume) = 48 tsp. (by volume) = 6 Tbsp. (by volume)
1 tsp. (by volume) = 1/6 oz. (by volume) = 1/3 Tbsp. (by volume) = ~4.7g = 4.7 ml
1 Tbsp. (by volume) = 3 tsp. (by volume) = ~ ½ oz. = ~14 g = 14 ml
1 lb. of beeswax = 16 volume ounces
1 lb. of soy wax = 18 volume ounces
1 lb. of paraffin wax = 20 volume ounces
One of the ways I try to look at this is if it fits in a measuring cup/spoon it is a volume weight. Weight to volume conversion cannot be used with dry materials accurately.
So now we have a semblance of understanding about measuring our materials. We’ve been given a recipe going by pound, how would we convert it? My recipe calls for 1 lb. of wax, 1 tsp. of Vybar, and 1 oz. of scent. Now I want to make 10 lbs. of this formula. I simply multiply each by 10 to get 10 lbs. of wax, 10 tsp. of Vybar (or 3 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.), and 10 oz. of scent. I will only use measuring spoons on my Vybar and will weight my wax and scent.
Now we’ve been given a recipe using percentages. The key to this is that all percentages of ingredients used must total 100%. For example, I have a recipe calling for 90% paraffin, 1% Vybar, and 9% scent. These percentages do total 100% and would make 100 lbs. of mix. But what if I only wanted to make 10 lbs.? I would take each component and divide by 10 and get 9 lbs. of paraffin, 1/10 of a lb. of Vybar and 1/10 percent of scent. Looking at my above list, 1/10 of a lb. of Vybar would be equivalent to 9.6 tsp. of Vybar and 1.6 oz. of scent.
Believe it or not, some recipes use proportions, parts. It may call for 90 parts wax, 1 part Vybar, and 6 parts scent for a total of 97 parts. The parts can represent whatever measurement you are using. Usually you are using pounds of wax, not ounces so thinking in terms of pounds would be best. But what if I only wanted to use 10 lbs. of wax? I would divide my 97 by 10 giving me 9.7. I then would divide the other “parts” by 9.7. Since it would all be represented by pounds I would have to use my conversion to find ounces and teaspoons. If I wanted to increase I would still divide my overall parts by the amount I wanted to use, but I would then multiply the other parts by that result instead of divide. Proportions can be very challenging, but you can easily convert them to percentages. Simply take your total parts and divide by actual parts which would be 97/90 and then multiply by 100. Likewise, the Vybar would be 97/1 multiplied by 100.
To find how much wax to use for your project, fill the container you are using with water and weigh for ounces. Multiply this answer by how many containers you are filling and then divide by 20. For example, I am making 10 2 oz. votives, which gives me 20 total ounces divided by 20 (how many ounces by volume are in 1 lb. of wax) giving me 1. I would then know to use 1 lb. of wax for this project. That is the super simple formula. If you are adding fragrance oils and additives you will need to remember to allow for those.
Permission to reprint by Shanda Lynn Markham, BellaOnline's Candlemaking Editor.
Original article - http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art60372.asp
Measurements are a key component in candle making. For the candle maker wanting to pursue selling their candles it is critical. To sell candles, you must be able to re-create the formula and if you have not measured or written down everything, how can you duplicate it? Although I like some forms of math, this kind just gives me headaches! It is my least favorite aspect of candle making.
Weight vs. volume is one of the first things to focus on. To refresh our memories weight is the actual volume of the product and volume is how much space it takes up. With that being said, can you see why it is important? Fragrance oils have different densities. For example, 1 oz. of patchouli may look less in a container compared to 1oz. of strawberry, but in reality they weight the same, one is just denser than the other. For this reason, weight is the more accurate measure in candle making. If you use 1 oz. by volume of a denser fragrant it is going to affect your final product. It could be too much and cause the candle to sweat. I always recommend weighing all LIQUID ingredients by weight.
On the other hand, this reasoning does not hold true with “dry” ingredients. For example, 1 tsp. of Vybar 260 weighs only 1/10 of an oz., not 1/6 of an ounce. (Water is used to determine how much 1 tsp. weighs). So if you went by weight on it, you would in reality be using too much Vybar. Confused yet? It is important to remember that the common weight ratios are measured using water. Some ingredients are going to be lighter than water and others heavier. 1 lb. of wax is equivalent to 20 oz. when melted, not 16 oz. I know it can be too confusing so I am going to go over some common measurements and how to change your ratios.
1 lb. = 16 oz. = 454 g = 454 ml = 32 Tbsp. (by volume) = 96 tsp. (by volume)
1 oz. = 28.4 g = 2 Tbsp. (by volume) = 16 tsp. (by volume)
1 cup (by volume) = 8 oz. (by volume) = ½ lb. (by volume) = 48 tsp. (by volume) = 6 Tbsp. (by volume)
1 tsp. (by volume) = 1/6 oz. (by volume) = 1/3 Tbsp. (by volume) = ~4.7g = 4.7 ml
1 Tbsp. (by volume) = 3 tsp. (by volume) = ~ ½ oz. = ~14 g = 14 ml
1 lb. of beeswax = 16 volume ounces
1 lb. of soy wax = 18 volume ounces
1 lb. of paraffin wax = 20 volume ounces
One of the ways I try to look at this is if it fits in a measuring cup/spoon it is a volume weight. Weight to volume conversion cannot be used with dry materials accurately.
So now we have a semblance of understanding about measuring our materials. We’ve been given a recipe going by pound, how would we convert it? My recipe calls for 1 lb. of wax, 1 tsp. of Vybar, and 1 oz. of scent. Now I want to make 10 lbs. of this formula. I simply multiply each by 10 to get 10 lbs. of wax, 10 tsp. of Vybar (or 3 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.), and 10 oz. of scent. I will only use measuring spoons on my Vybar and will weight my wax and scent.
Now we’ve been given a recipe using percentages. The key to this is that all percentages of ingredients used must total 100%. For example, I have a recipe calling for 90% paraffin, 1% Vybar, and 9% scent. These percentages do total 100% and would make 100 lbs. of mix. But what if I only wanted to make 10 lbs.? I would take each component and divide by 10 and get 9 lbs. of paraffin, 1/10 of a lb. of Vybar and 1/10 percent of scent. Looking at my above list, 1/10 of a lb. of Vybar would be equivalent to 9.6 tsp. of Vybar and 1.6 oz. of scent.
Believe it or not, some recipes use proportions, parts. It may call for 90 parts wax, 1 part Vybar, and 6 parts scent for a total of 97 parts. The parts can represent whatever measurement you are using. Usually you are using pounds of wax, not ounces so thinking in terms of pounds would be best. But what if I only wanted to use 10 lbs. of wax? I would divide my 97 by 10 giving me 9.7. I then would divide the other “parts” by 9.7. Since it would all be represented by pounds I would have to use my conversion to find ounces and teaspoons. If I wanted to increase I would still divide my overall parts by the amount I wanted to use, but I would then multiply the other parts by that result instead of divide. Proportions can be very challenging, but you can easily convert them to percentages. Simply take your total parts and divide by actual parts which would be 97/90 and then multiply by 100. Likewise, the Vybar would be 97/1 multiplied by 100.
To find how much wax to use for your project, fill the container you are using with water and weigh for ounces. Multiply this answer by how many containers you are filling and then divide by 20. For example, I am making 10 2 oz. votives, which gives me 20 total ounces divided by 20 (how many ounces by volume are in 1 lb. of wax) giving me 1. I would then know to use 1 lb. of wax for this project. That is the super simple formula. If you are adding fragrance oils and additives you will need to remember to allow for those.
Permission to reprint by Shanda Lynn Markham, BellaOnline's Candlemaking Editor.
Original article - http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art60372.asp
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Eggshell Candle Tutorial
To make these cute candles check out this tutorial (The Egg Shell Candle) by Erica from The Bonnie Bath Company.
Happy Spring!
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Valentine Embedded Candle Tutorial (Variation) from Bonnie Bath
http://bonniebathblog.blogspot.com/2010/02/valentine-embedded-candle-tutorial.html
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Color and Scents
While making your candle or glycerin soap project and were wondering what color should you use with your particular fragrance, here is list compiled by Peak Candle Supply. I found the list to be most helpful and I hope you do too.
http://www.candletech.com/general-information/color-suggestions/
http://www.candletech.com/general-information/color-suggestions/
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Early Registration For Classes
I would strongly encourage anyone interested in signing up for my classes to do so at the earliest possible moment. The reason is that one it would possible prevent the class from being cancelled. And two it helps determine on how much supplies I order.
For example, yesterday I had a Body Balms and Butters class at the Palo Alto Adult School. I had 5 students sign up for the class. But when class started there were 3 students who had signed up online but somehow did not make the list. Then 45 minutes into the class three women came in for the class stating they signed up online. I could not take them because I had only enough supplies for the students in the class.
It really helps when registering early because it helps determine the amount of supplies to order and having the right amount of handouts copied. For planning purposes, I contact the school's a week and a half prior to the class to see how many students are in the class. Then I will add on enough supplies for 2-3 students then I place the order. Most of the supplies I get come from out of state and it takes time for the supplies to arrive in time for the class.
I know that there are last minute sign ups that cannot be avoided but if you sign up online or the night before I highly recommend bringing your confirmation to the class. IT really helps the instructor confirm that you are in the class.
Thanks for understanding.
For example, yesterday I had a Body Balms and Butters class at the Palo Alto Adult School. I had 5 students sign up for the class. But when class started there were 3 students who had signed up online but somehow did not make the list. Then 45 minutes into the class three women came in for the class stating they signed up online. I could not take them because I had only enough supplies for the students in the class.
It really helps when registering early because it helps determine the amount of supplies to order and having the right amount of handouts copied. For planning purposes, I contact the school's a week and a half prior to the class to see how many students are in the class. Then I will add on enough supplies for 2-3 students then I place the order. Most of the supplies I get come from out of state and it takes time for the supplies to arrive in time for the class.
I know that there are last minute sign ups that cannot be avoided but if you sign up online or the night before I highly recommend bringing your confirmation to the class. IT really helps the instructor confirm that you are in the class.
Thanks for understanding.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
