In the bath: Add the recommended number of drops of essential oils, but not more than 10 in total, to one tablespoon of neutral from or vegetable oil and pore it under running water.
As a Massage: Blend 10 - 12 drops of one or more essential oils into 30 ml of a carrier massage oil.
For a Facial Moisturizer: Place 2 drops of essential oil in a 4 ml of a neutral lotion or cream base. Avoid applying near the eyes.
For a Body Lotion: Place 5 drops of essential oil in 10ml of a neutral lotion or creme base.
In a Sauna: Add 3 or 4 drops of essential oil to a ladle of water and pour it over the hot coals.
In a Perfume Diffuser: Also known as a vaporizer. Add 3 or 4 drops of essential oils to a little water in the dish before switching it on or lighting the candle underneath.
In a Room Spray: Add 2 drops of essential oil to 150 ml of warm water in a clean plant mister.
Source: Home Spa...Pamper yourself from head to toe by Chrissie Painell-Makin. Published by Barnes and Noble. 2006. pg. 128.
Monday, July 9, 2007
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
French Milled Soap (or triple milled soap)
Is a commercial process where soap (typically made from synthetic detergents) is made, dried into crystals then rolled three or more times through steel rollers. This repeated milling crushes the crystals turning them into a fine paste. This paste is then pressed and formed into bars. Removing glycerin from the soap is necessary to keep the soap from being too sticky and adhering to the rollers. French/Triple milled soap means that all soap bars will be identical with no variations in color and texture. True milled soap is impossible to do if you are not a commercial manufacturer with the steel rollers.
Now, I never heard of this process before and I do not know where you can learn this technique. If I come across anymore information about this process I will let you know.
Now, I never heard of this process before and I do not know where you can learn this technique. If I come across anymore information about this process I will let you know.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
Hot Process Soap Making Process
The hot process method is a much easier and convenient way of making soap. What I mean by that is you would combine the oil, lye and distilled water like you would for the cold process method and then stir the mixture to trace. The difference here is that you cook the soap using indirect heat by using the slow cooker method, oven method or double boiler method. Indirect heat is more predictable way to ensure a successful batch of soap. Once the soap mixture has been cooked, stir the mixture until it cools slightly, then add your fragrance and put the mixture in the molds.
A major advantage to making your soap by the hot process method is that the saponification process is alot quicker than waiting a few weeks with the cold process method. You will also save money on your fragrance and essential oils because you will add them after the soap has cooled. Plus do not have to worry about seizing.
Just like the cold process method, you have to be precise with your measurements or your batches or they can come out all wrong.
My favorite book on this subject is "Handcrafted Soap" by Delores Boone. She really goes into great detail about using the indirect heating methods, charts and references, and alot of recipes. My second choice is "Essentially Soap" by Dr. Robert S. McDaniel. It has some good information especially on fragrances, colorants, and step by step instructions. He does not discuss the various heating methods/options that Delores Boone discusses in her book. His recipes are so so. Alot of his recipes ask for lard or vegetable shortening, whereas Delores uses olive oil, coconut oil, almond, avocado oil, and other oils. She does dedicate a page of recipes on tallow and lard soaps.
If you are the type that likes to take a class on this subject, The Nova Studio in Pt. Richmond, CA offers a class on this subject. Check out the studio's site at www.thenovastudio.com to see when the next class is offered.
A major advantage to making your soap by the hot process method is that the saponification process is alot quicker than waiting a few weeks with the cold process method. You will also save money on your fragrance and essential oils because you will add them after the soap has cooled. Plus do not have to worry about seizing.
Just like the cold process method, you have to be precise with your measurements or your batches or they can come out all wrong.
My favorite book on this subject is "Handcrafted Soap" by Delores Boone. She really goes into great detail about using the indirect heating methods, charts and references, and alot of recipes. My second choice is "Essentially Soap" by Dr. Robert S. McDaniel. It has some good information especially on fragrances, colorants, and step by step instructions. He does not discuss the various heating methods/options that Delores Boone discusses in her book. His recipes are so so. Alot of his recipes ask for lard or vegetable shortening, whereas Delores uses olive oil, coconut oil, almond, avocado oil, and other oils. She does dedicate a page of recipes on tallow and lard soaps.
If you are the type that likes to take a class on this subject, The Nova Studio in Pt. Richmond, CA offers a class on this subject. Check out the studio's site at www.thenovastudio.com to see when the next class is offered.
Monday, July 2, 2007
Cold Process Soap Making Method
One of the most common methods of making soap is called cold process. This method of making soap you are combining oils, distilled water and lye and bring the mixture to trace. Trace is when the oil, distilled water and lye thickens. Then you add the fragrance and pour it into the mold while it is still pourable. With the cold process method, sapnification will actually take place in the mold. After a few weeks, the soap will cure and harden.
There are a few disadvantage to making soap by this method. First of all, it takes a long time for the soap to harden. Which means that you have to find a convenient place to store the soap while it cures and saponifies. And another disadvantage is that you need to use twice as much fragrance or essential oils which can get costly. See what happens is that when the lye and oils combine there is a chemical reaction which produces heat. Once you add your favorite fragrance to the mixture, it will dissipates because of the heat. A common problem occurs is the active lye and the fragrance react with each other. They soap can suddenly thicken, curdle or the oils may separate and will not mix back together which causes seizing. You must also realize that when your soap by this method that your measurements must be very accurate. If you put too much of an oil or use water from the tap instead of distilled water it can ruin your batch.
There are many books on this subject. As far as classes. The Nova Studio in Point Richmond, CA offers classes on this subject. Check her website at www.thenovastudio.com for upcoming classes.
There are a few disadvantage to making soap by this method. First of all, it takes a long time for the soap to harden. Which means that you have to find a convenient place to store the soap while it cures and saponifies. And another disadvantage is that you need to use twice as much fragrance or essential oils which can get costly. See what happens is that when the lye and oils combine there is a chemical reaction which produces heat. Once you add your favorite fragrance to the mixture, it will dissipates because of the heat. A common problem occurs is the active lye and the fragrance react with each other. They soap can suddenly thicken, curdle or the oils may separate and will not mix back together which causes seizing. You must also realize that when your soap by this method that your measurements must be very accurate. If you put too much of an oil or use water from the tap instead of distilled water it can ruin your batch.
There are many books on this subject. As far as classes. The Nova Studio in Point Richmond, CA offers classes on this subject. Check her website at www.thenovastudio.com for upcoming classes.
Hand-Milled Soap Making Process
Hand milled (aka re-batching or French Milled) is a soap making process that is different from the melt and pour process, This process starts by grating a pre-made bar of soap, such as Castille Soap, melting it with water and adding additives, fragrances and oils to make a bar of soap, A bar of soap made by this process takes 2 to 4 weeks to cure before you can used it.
Soap base - Start with a pre-made bar of soap, preferably a vegetable base soap by the cold process method. You can also purchase a high quality bar of soap such as Castille Soap. In either case, it is best to use soap that has no fragrance or coloring because you want able to create your own unique bar of soap. If the soap base you are using has coloring or fragrance in it, it may interferer with what fragrances and colors you want to add.
Method - The soap will be grated and melted with water in a double boiler. Fresh preserved additives, oils, fragrances, dried botanical and colorants can all be added to create your unique bar of soap,
Curing - A bar of soap made by this process sometimes requires up to 4 weeks to completely cure, but in most cases it will be ready to be used in 2 weeks. It is not necessary to wrap in plastic and over time they become harder and better the longer they cure.
Molding - Use simple shaped molds with large embossed decorations. The most common form of a hand milled soap is in the shape of a ball which has been molded by hand. You are limited in this process of making soap, but is an excellent way to produce a natural looking bar of soap.
General Directions for Hand-Milled Soap Making:
1. Grate and process 2 cups of vegetable based soap until fine.
2. Place grated soap in a heat resistant glass measuring cup or bowl.
3. Add any oil that the recipe calls for. Add 1/3 cup of water.
4. Place measuring bowl in a hot water bath on the stove top. Melt the soap, stirring gently until the soap starts to appear "stringy".
5. Remove the melted soap from the heat and add the additional ingredients. Stir the mixture to disperse the ingredients.
6. Work quickly, spoon or pour mixture into prepare mold.
For more information on this process, pleae refer to "Natural Soapmking" by Marie Browning, Sterling Publications. As of this writing, I am not aware of anyone who teaches a class of making soap by this method.
Soap base - Start with a pre-made bar of soap, preferably a vegetable base soap by the cold process method. You can also purchase a high quality bar of soap such as Castille Soap. In either case, it is best to use soap that has no fragrance or coloring because you want able to create your own unique bar of soap. If the soap base you are using has coloring or fragrance in it, it may interferer with what fragrances and colors you want to add.
Method - The soap will be grated and melted with water in a double boiler. Fresh preserved additives, oils, fragrances, dried botanical and colorants can all be added to create your unique bar of soap,
Curing - A bar of soap made by this process sometimes requires up to 4 weeks to completely cure, but in most cases it will be ready to be used in 2 weeks. It is not necessary to wrap in plastic and over time they become harder and better the longer they cure.
Molding - Use simple shaped molds with large embossed decorations. The most common form of a hand milled soap is in the shape of a ball which has been molded by hand. You are limited in this process of making soap, but is an excellent way to produce a natural looking bar of soap.
General Directions for Hand-Milled Soap Making:
1. Grate and process 2 cups of vegetable based soap until fine.
2. Place grated soap in a heat resistant glass measuring cup or bowl.
3. Add any oil that the recipe calls for. Add 1/3 cup of water.
4. Place measuring bowl in a hot water bath on the stove top. Melt the soap, stirring gently until the soap starts to appear "stringy".
5. Remove the melted soap from the heat and add the additional ingredients. Stir the mixture to disperse the ingredients.
6. Work quickly, spoon or pour mixture into prepare mold.
For more information on this process, pleae refer to "Natural Soapmking" by Marie Browning, Sterling Publications. As of this writing, I am not aware of anyone who teaches a class of making soap by this method.
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