Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Sore Muscle Bath Soak Recipe

From Aura Cacia

Ingredients

6 drops lavender essential oil
4 drops eucalyptus essential oil
2 drops peppermint essential oil
2 drops wintergreen essential oil
2 drops clove essential oil
30 drops precious essential oil- Roman or German chamomile, frankincense, sandalwood, rose
2 ounces carrier (jojoba, almond, avocado, etc.)

Directions

Add to a hottub or bath.

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/sore-muscle-bath-soak-recipe/2009/06/06/

Monday, June 29, 2009

Garden Bath Teas

Makes one tea bag.

Ingredients:

1 tsp lavender flowers (dried)
1 tsp rose petals (dried)
1/2 tsp lemon balm (dried)
1/4 tsp rosemary (dried)
1/8 tsp spearmint (dried) (just to give it a bit of a snap)
4 drops lavender EO
2 drops rose EO
1 drop patchouli (spelling?)

Directions:

EO Mix well, put into heat sealable teabag.

Source: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=864

Pinwheel Soaps

Ingredients:

Clear Soap base
White Soap base
Liquid ultramarine blue
Pineapple Cilantro fragrance
Liquid Glycerin

tools:

Flexible brownie tray
Craft knife
Heat safe containers
Spoon or stir stick

To view a video clip from Soap Queen TV on how to make these soaps go to http://vimeo.com/5291689.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

All natural dog shampoo recipe

If you have been looking for a natural, chemical-free shampoo for your dog, try this recipe from Old Dog Treats and Rawhide. It is a slight variation on a very common recipe. Finish it up with the finishing rinse for a shiny coat!

This recipe makes a nice dog shampoo that keeps the pH balance in check by not destroying the skins natural oils that protect it.

Ingredients:

1 pint of liquid dish soap such as Dawn or Ivory
1 pint of water
1 pint of apple cider vinegar
4 ounces of glycerine which can be found at any pharmacy.

Directions:

Combine the above ingredients and store in airtight containers. Rinse well and save some of your own old shampoo bottles for your dog’s shampoo. You can also get a few bottles from the dollar store if necessary.

Finishing Rinse

This finishing vinegar rinse will add a nice shine to the coat plus retain the acid mantle or the skins natural protective barrier.

Instructions:

Combine 3 cups of warm water with 1/4 cup of organic apple cider vinegar. Gently rinse the dog avoiding the eyes.

Helpful Tips:

To avoid soap getting into the dog’s eyes, some experts recommend rubbing a small amount of petroleum jelly around the eyes. Try a petroleum-free equivalent.

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/all-natural-dog-shampoo-recipe/2009/05/07/

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Book on Bath Bombs

One day in late May I decided to Beverly's Craft Store in San Jose to check out an sale item that they had in their curricular that so happened be ending that day. The item I was interested in was very nice but overpriced. So I was wondering around the store looking for something to purchase since I travelled so far out of the way. First I went down the aisle where they had soap and candle making supplies. I wound up getting some red soap colorant for supplies for classes. Then I wondered around the store and came upon the book shelf and one particular book popped out - a book on bath bombs oddly enough titled, "Bath Bombs".

Bath Bombs is a new book written by Elaine Stavert, who lives in Buckinghamshire countryside in England. After a life changing move from her television career in London to her farm, she formed The Liddicoat Soap Company. Her keen interest in herbalism and aromatherapy, Elaine began developing a range of natural toiletries and bath products.

I really like this book because the book is dedicated on the subject on bath bombs. Most books (soapmaking is the subject) I have seen briefly talk about bath bombs have a few recipes that is about it. This book covers it all from essential oils, colorants, oils and butters, history of perfume, blending fragrances, basic techniques (molds, etc.) and recipes.

There are colorful pictures and the information is basic and very simple to understand. The reason I purchased this book, besides the subject matter is the technique on using a 3D sphere mold. In addition there are really interesting recipes and techniques.

The only thing that I do not like about the book (and it is minor) that the font or typeface and sized that they used. It made it extremely difficult for me to read with the vibrant colors of the pages and some of the backgrounds that they used. But I remedy that by purchasing reading glasses.

For those interested in having a book on this subject, I would highly recommend this book.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Stars & Stripes Soap

1. Melt 1 lb - 2 lbs of white M&P soap in a pyrex bowl in the microwave in short 20 second intervals.

2. When melted, pour off 1/4 of the soap into a small bowl and another 1/4 into a second small bowl. Tint one bowl with red soap colorant and the second bowl with blue soap colorant. Pour into 16 oz rectangular Glad Food Saver containers and let set up.

3. Pop the wafer like colored soap chunks out of the Food Savers. Use a small star cookie cutter to cut out stars of both colors. With the left over irregular shapes, cut out ’stripes’ of various lengths.

4. Rewarm the remaining 1/2 portion of white M&P soap just until it is barely melted, you want this to be THICK and viscous. Pour into a third Glad Food Saver (I use the 16 oz rectangle type). Let sit until starting to thicken up. Carefully push in and position your Stars and Stripes in the red and blue using the cut outs you made earlier.

5. Spritz the top of your soap with some rubbing alcohol to make sure that no bubbles remain on the top.

6. When completely set up, pop your loaf of soap out of the Glad Food Saver container and slice your amazing soap loaf into 4 bars.

Sourcehttp://www.makeitsoap.com/index.php?p=129


How to Make Shea Butter Soap

Shea butter is organic, non toxic and unprocessed, and it can be used in cooking. As a moisturizer it is known to make an adult skin look and feel more resilient, and acts as a natural product rejuvenating, and is completely non-toxic for babies or people with skin conditions, like skin cracks and ulcers, small wounds, dry skin, eczema, dermatitis, and to sooth aching muscles. Because of the way shea butter restructures the skin, you can use it in the bath as your daily soap, to help with stretch marks, and in anti-aging formulas. It is expensive to buy, and can be duplicated at home for less the cost.

Things You'll Need

All-natural Castile (olive oil based) soap
distilled water
2 tbsp all-natural, unprocessed shea butter
1 tbsp finely ground almonds (optional, but a nice addition for a gentle exfoliating soap with a nice scent)
A grater
A double boiler, or a small pot that can be placed inside of a bigger pot
Small plastic food containers for molds
A mixing spoon
A drying rack

Steps

Boil tap water in a double-broiler. Grate your castile soap until you have two full cups.

 Add this to the inner double-boiler, with ½ cup of distilled water.

Melt it over medium high heat, stirring frequently until the soap is completely melted and stringy when you pull up the spoon. Remove it from the heat.

Add the shea butter and almonds, stirring gently until the mixture is well blended. Pour into small plastic food containers and let dry and harden for several hours. They should pop out when completely hard.

Place on the drying rack and allow soap to set for 3 weeks, turning regularly throughout the day to prevent the bars from warping.

Simply wrap the shea butter soaps in plastic wrap to preserve them, or use them in your next bath.

Tips

For a faster melting time, use your microwave.

A double boiler would be preferable to avoid loss of its natural consistency

Warnings

If you are allergic to latex, you will want to do a small patch test before you slather shea butter all over.





Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Shea-Butter-Soap

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Hot Process Hints

For me, the hot process method is the quickest and easiest way to make soap. There is very little room for error and the soap turns out great 99% of the time. Still, there is that 1%, so I thought I'd try to shed some light on some common HP problems and how to easily solve them.

By no means is this a comprehensive list, but hopefully it will help you if you’re having trouble with your HP. Please bear in mind that my observations take into account that the recipe being used isn't flawed and that the equipment used (slow cooker, double boiler, oven, etc) is in good working order.

1. My soap is really thick and I have trouble getting it into the mold.
This is probably the most common problem with making HP soap. Fortunately, it's also the easiest to solve. Thick soap is usually caused by a lack of water, so it's important never to do a water discount with HP. In fact, it's a good idea to add an additional 5-10% to the recommended full water amount. I wouldn't suggest going over 10% as the extra evaporation while the soap cures can cause the sliced bars to warp or bend. The extra water may be added to the lye solution or even to the finished soap before it goes into the mold. I have 'thinned' out many a batch of thick soap by adding a small amount of hot water at the end of the cook, but it does require careful and lengthy stirring to fully incorporate into the soap.

In addition to extra water, there are a couple of additives that can help keep the soap more fluid. Adding 3-5% sugar to the lye solution before the lye is added can help keep the soap from getting too thick. It is imperative that all of the sugar is dissolved before the lye goes in or you'll end up with a caustic boiled sweet! Sodium lactate is another additive that can keep soap fluid, however, add no more than 5% or the soap can become brittle. Sodium lactate is a forgiving ingredient and may be added at any time during the soap making process. I prefer adding it at trace.

2. My soap has lumpy bits in it.
When I first started making HP, I had the lumpiest soap ever. Even the cured bars showed the tell-tale white spots. There are two main reasons for hard lumps in soap -- over-heating and over-cooking. In my experience, HP should never be brought to a temperature over 140F (60C). Doing so causes the indirect heat source to become more direct as the sides of the pot or slow cooker heat up enough to over-cook or burn the soap. The hot sides contact the soap, causing bits to over-heat and harden. While harmless, these hard bits will affect the look of the finished soap.

As with cooking soap at too high a temperature, cooking it too long will also cause lumps. A longer cook time means more evaporation -- and evaporation means harder, thicker soap. As the soap continues to over-cook, the soap will begin to form hard lumps. I have rarely had a batch of soap of any size which required cooking for more than 45 minutes.

3. My soap zaps!
Barring any mistakes with the recipe, zapping soap is undercooked. To avoid a heat or lye burn, soap shouldn't be zap tested (touching a small amount of cooked soap to the tongue) at all without meeting a few criteria first:

- Soap should be at the gel stage and there should be no parts of the soap that are not translucent. If the soap resembles cake batter in any way, do not touch it.

- Soap should be cooled before testing. While 140F isn't boiling, it can still burn.

- Soap should be rubbed between the fingers before testing. If the soap feels waxy and smooth, it's fairly safe to test, but if there are any rough or gritty bits, it should not be touched to the tongue.

If you’ve met the criteria and the soap zaps, simply cook it a bit longer.

These tips won’t solve every problem you might encounter with HP, but hopefully they’ll help you achieve more trouble free batches. If you have any hints you’d like to add, please leave me a comment. My hope is that by sharing, we can make HP a nearly fool-proof method!

Source: http://gracefruit.blogspot.com/2006/07/hot-process-hints.html

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

4th of July Chunk Soaps Tutorial

As I was reading the updates to the blogs I follow (www.craftgossip.com), I found this melt & pour soap tutorial for the 4th of July and I wanted to share it with you.

The tutorial originates from Peak Candle Supply and looks like a fun craft to celebrate the upcoming holiday! Especially if you are home celebrating.





How to Make Shimmering Body Lotion

Make a shimmering body lotion that your daughter(s) and her friends will adore!

Things You'll Need

Mixing bowl
Spoon or spatula
Pouring funnel
New lotion or lotion that's laying around the house, not being used anymore.
Superfine cosmetic-grade glitter
Empty lotion pump container

Steps

Empty contents of lotion into mixing bowl.
Sprinkle enough cosmetic-grade glitter to cover the top of the lotion.
Blend glitter well into lotion.
Place a pouring funnel into a lotion container
Use a spoon or a spatula to scoop the glittery lotion into the pouring funnel.
Push the shimmering lotion down the funnel and into the bottle with the spatula or spoon.
Put the lid back onto the container.
Squirt and enjoy.

Tips

You can find superfine cosmetic-grade glitter in the form of eye shadow or body dust in the makeup section at your local pharmacy.

This is a great activity for sleepovers.

The finished product makes a great gift when placed into a new lotion pump or other new container.

You can use as much glitter as you like.

Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Shimmering-Body-Lotion

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

How to Make Melt & Pour Springfetti Soap Slices

The Springfetti soap slices are a confetti tye-dye blending of colors. We were pleasantly suprised with the color effect once the loaf was sliced. It presented a wonderful splash of Easter colors, perfect for any Easter basket, or in our case, table setting. We printed labels and used the soaps as name placecards. The 2-pound loaf yielded 8 generous slices weighing 4.25 to 5 ounces per slice

Here's what you need:

White Melt & Pour Soap base. We used about 5 pounds.
Colorful melt and pour soap scraps. If you don't have any scrap soap laying around, then just make a few colorful bars in a molded cavity and cut into smaller pieces once the soap sets up.

2- Pound Wooden Soap Mold (lined with freezer paper). If you're not sure how to line the mold, see our instructional on How To Line a Wooden Mold for Soap Making.

Liquid Gel Colorants: We used bright neon purple, neon green and bright neon pink. For the soap scraps we used the above colors plus Neon Blue. These colors were added to white soap base to achieve the colors shown.

Fragrance Oil: We used our Specialty Confetti Fruit Burst which is a nice mix of juicy fruits.

Glass Measuring Cup. A 4 to 6 cup size is suggested.

Microwave for melting the soap base.

Straight cutter and soap mitre box for slicing soap.

Pippettes for dispensing fragrance.

Wire whisk for mixing color and fragrance into soap base.

Bamboo Skewers for swirling colors

If you would like to watch the tutorial of this project or would like to see pictures, visit http://goplanetearth.com/project_springfetti_loaf.html

Monday, June 22, 2009

Tropical Nut Milk Bath recipe

Tropical Nut Milk Bath from Make Your Cosmetics
by HTN President Donna Maria

This simple yet refreshing recipe smells heavenly in a soothing bath soak and, since it contains no oil, it does not leave a ring around the tub. The vegetable glycerin and milk combine to soften the skin. You can double this recipe, or even triple it, if you have an especially large tub.

Yield: Approx. 18 ounces

Ingredients:

16 ounces coconut milk
2 ounces vegetable glycerin
1-2 teaspoons coconut fragrance oil

Procedure:

Combine all ingredients into a cup and mix well. Use the smaller amount of fragrance oil or the larger one, depending on your personal preference. Add Tropical Nut Milk Bath to warm drawn bath and swish well to incorporate fully. Step in and be luxurious in a tropical kind of way. Enjoy!!

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/tropical-nut-milk-bath-recipe/2009/04/29/

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Pistachio Body Balm Recipe

Ingredients

.5 oz. Candellila Wax
1 oz. Cocoa butter
1 oz. Pistachio butter
1 oz. Avocado oil
1 oz. Jojoba oil
.1 oz. (1 tsp.) Dry Flo
a few drops Vitamin E oil
1 ml Orange Spice fragrance

Directions:

Measure out all of your ingredients by weight before you begin.

The safest way to melt down the ingredients is in a double boiler - but you can use a microwave as well. Just watch your mixture very carefully (remember the exploding microwave?). And I always pull my container out of the microwave and stir to melt down the last few bits which helps to avoid overheating your ingredients.

Melt the wax until liquid then add the Cocoa butter. Once the Cocoa butter is completely melted add the Dry Flo and mix until there aren't any lumps (hint: a little whisk helps with this). Finally add the Pistachio butter, remaining oils and fragrance to your preference. Mix well and pour into a 6 ounce tin.

Source: http://soap-queen.blogspot.com/2008/10/tutorial-pistachio-balm-recipe.html

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Summer Ready Foot Scrub

Get ready for sandal season with this super easy foot scrub from Good Clean Luv.

Ingredients:

2 Tblsp olive oil
2 Tblsp kosher salt

Directions:

Mix the salt and oil together - this recipe makes enough for two feet, increase the recipe if you’re hosting a spa party!

Wash feet gently in water water and soak for about 5 minutes. Apply the salt mixture in a circular motion and leave on for 5 minutes.

Rinse off with warm water and you’ll have super clean and smooth feet!

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/1125/2009/05/29/

Friday, June 19, 2009

How to Make Ice Candles

Ice candles are fancy looking and may seem difficult to make, but according the author they are pretty easy to make.

If you would like to try to make ice candles, then I would recommend reading the article by eHow Hobbies, Games & Toys Editor - How to Make Ice Candles.

In order to make these candles, you will need to purchase paraffin wax.  I do not believe soy will work for this particular project.  Paraffin wax is a petroleum by product which contains oil. According to the author, the lower the melting temperature, the higher the oil content. You'll want low-melting-point wax for container candles such as this, because it will shrink less as it cools.

A really good tip that the author provides is if you try using different shaped ice cube you may create a whole different look.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Tips on Making Your Own Paper

Papermaking is one of those wonderful crafts that are so entertaining and lead to beautiful artistic results that adults often enjoy the process, and so simple that children can also participate in all of the steps.

The supplies required for papermaking are as follows. What you don’t already have at home can be found in most art supply stores or through art supply catalogues.

* Mould and deckle
* Pulp
* Water
* One household blender
* One large tub
* One sponge
* Sheets of clean paper at least the size of the deckle
* Things to add texture to the paper (i.e., dried petals and leaves, string, sticks, glitter)

If you’re not familiar with these, the mould and deckle are a hoop covered with screen wire. You can make your own with an embroidery hoop and a piece of outdoor furniture fabric, the plastic or vinyl material used to cover the cushions. Make sure it has little holes to allow the water to drip. The fabric is preferred to screen wire because it doesn’t rust.

The pulp is the fiber that you’ll use to make the paper. Collect different varieties of paper and, if you want, sort it by color. Avoid newsprint which doesn’t make good-quality fiber. Cut the paper into small pieces or shred it with a paper shredder. Soak the paper in water overnight. Drain the water and replace it with fresh water. Pulverize this mixture in a blender in small batches to avoid damage to the equipment. You’ll probably need to add up to two cups of water to your pulp material each time you run a new batch. The pulp’s consistency should resemble that of oatmeal.

Pour the pulp into a large tub. A new large cat box is usually a good size. Add cold tap water keeping in mind that the more water you add, the thinner your sheets will be. Small, light items, such as dried petals and leaves, can be thrown in the tub to add texture to your handmade paper.

While holding the deckle securely on the mould, dip it into the pulp. You can usually get better results by dipping the mould and deckle into the far side of the tub and pulling it towards yourself. When you get to the other end of the tub, level the mould and deckle and lift them out of the pulp carefully and shake them gently from side to side so some of the excess water can drip.

Flip the mould onto a sheet of paper (or some other absorbent material like a cloth or felt) to remove the pulp from it. Use the sponge to press the back of the mould to remove as much water as possible. Slowly, pull the mould off of the sheet that now holds your handmade paper. You can also add texture to your paper at this stage. For instance, to add a watermark, use some string to draw a design on the wet sheet. When the sheet is dry, remove the string to expose the watermark. After you’re finished, add another clean sheet of paper or piece of cloth to cover the handmade paper and repeat the process until you’ve made as many pieces as you wanted. Stack the newly made sheets into a neat pile and place a heavy book or board on it to press the sheets down. Let your sheets dry, usually a full day. If you live in a dry climate or it’s winter and your furnace is on, it will take less time.

When your sheets feel dry to the touch, peel off the protective sheets of paper or cloth very slowly and carefully. VoilĂ ! You’ve got your own recycled paper. Continue the fun by making greeting cards, book covers and wall hangings with them. You can use pretty much anything you want to decorate the finished sheets. Experiment with acrylic paint, thread and needle, and leftover fabric to create unique designs.

Source: http://www.essortment.com/all/makinghomemade_rjgi.htm

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

How To Make an Herbal Oil Infusion

By David Fisher, About.com

Whether it's for the healing properties of the herbs or the scent, it's not hard to infuse herbs into the oils you use to make soaps, lotions and other body products. Calendula and lavender are quite popular to infuse, but eucalytpus, sage, patchouli and rosemary are also wonderful.

Difficulty: Average
Time Required: 1 hour or longer

Here's How:

Put the herbs (1/4 - 1 cup) and oil (16 oz.) into the crock pot or double boiler. Stir gently. Heat the herbs very slowly, stirring gently every once in a while.

Bring the temperature to about 120 - 130 degrees. Any higher and you risk "cooking" the herbs rather than helping them to infuse your oil.

Let the oils simmer for an hour or so. Let them cool. Bring back to temperature and simmer again for another hour or so. If you're using a reliable crock pot, you can just set it to heat for a few hours.

Let the herbs cool a bit, but not completely.

Strain the oil through three or four layers of cheesecloth into your mason jar. Be sure to squeeze the last bits of oil from the herbs - like a tea bag.

Use the oils as you normally would in soap and toiletry recipes.

Tips:

Herb suggestions: Lavender, Calendula, Peppermint, Patchouli, Sage, Chamomile, Catnip (great to keep mosquitoes away!, Annatto (for color). The herbs should be crushed or lightly ground but not powdered!

You can simmer the oils for several hours, but it's important to not cook/fry them.

You can re-infuse the oils several times to make double or triple strength oils.

Some people skip the crock pot altogether and just place the oils in a warm window to steep for 24-48 hours. This would be akin to making "sun tea". I personally prefer the crock pot method, but the window method does work.

What You Need:
Double Boiler or Crock Pot
16 oz. of an oil with a good shelf life - jojoba, olive, coconut, macadamia
Approx 1/2 - 3/4 cup of dried herbs
Mason Jar
Cheesecloth
Thermometer
More Candle & Soap Making How To's


Source: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/coldprocesssoapmaking/ht/htoilinfusion.htm

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Body spritzer recipe

Nature’s Garden Candles has a great recipe for a body spritzer, a nice way to cool down in the hot summer weather.

Homemade Body Spritzer

Ingredients:

Gallon Distilled Water
1/2 Cup epsom Salt
1/2 cup water softener
Body Safe Fragrance Oils
Vitamin E oil (optional)

Note: The fragrance oil does not mix thoroughly with the water mixture, so do not use a see-through bottle for these, and shake the bottle before you spray.

Instructions:
1. Put epsom salt and water softener in distilled water. Allow to dissolve completely.
2. Pour mixture into 8 oz. spray bottles.
3. Top each bottle off with 1 Tbsp. of a Body Safe Fragrance oil of your choice.
4. You’re done!

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/body-spritzer-recipe/2008/09/15/

Monday, June 15, 2009

Almond Joy Soap Recipe

From Miller Soap.

This cold process soap recipe sounds so yummy! Please note the recipe is based on weight, not volume, so you will need a reliable scale.

“Almond Joy” / Chocolate Almond Swirl (Kathy Miller)
16 oz. palm oil
14 oz. coconut oil
52 oz. olive oil
6 ounces cocoa butter
32 oz. cold water (4 cups)
12 oz. lye crystals
1 ounce Bitter Almond fragrance oil (Sweet Cakes)
2-3 T. cocoa powder blended into about 1/4 of the soap at trace (after pouring 3/4 of it into mold)

Temperature: 95-100 degrees

Instructions as usual. Add the Bitter Almond oil at early trace and pour 3/4 of the soap into the mold/s. Mix the cocoa powder quickly into the remaining soap (stick blender makes this easy) and drizzle it over the top of the white soap in a back and forth fashion. Take a butter knife and gently run it back and forth to gently swirl the two colors together (you decide when it looks pretty enough to stop). A note on adding the cocoa. You could probably blend the powder with a small amount of the soap before stirring it into the rest. When I did it, I added some olive oil to the cocoa, but had some oil ooze out of the darker soap after it set overnight, so think it was too much.

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/almond-joy-soap-recipe/2009/02/13/

Sunday, June 14, 2009

The Differences In Sea Salt

by Allison B. Kontur
http://www.bathbodysupply.com/

With a plethora of different varieties of sea salt to choose from, it may be difficult to decide which salt is right for your formulation. We hope the following definitions help to make it easier to choose!

Atlantic Sea Salt - This sea salt is a natural sea salt for use in Bath Salts, Aromatherapy, and Soap Making.Environmental conditions directly influence the salt quality through the quality of its main raw material - sea water. The sea water used to make Atlantic Sea Salt is especially clean as it is collected from a mangrove area, an ecosystem that removes undesired elements from the water. This removal is accomplished through a filtration process carried by indigenous plants and shellfish.

Dead Sea Salt - The waters of the Dead Sea (located in Israel) are unique in that they contain 27% of various salts as compared to 3% in normal sea water. While sodium accounts for approximately 80% of the mineral content of normal sea water, it comprises much less of the mineral total in water from the Dead Sea. The remaining mineral content of Dead Sea water is comprised of magnesium, potassium, calcium chloride and bromides.

Dendritic Salt - Dendritic Salt is a very fine grain salt with a greater surface area than most salts on the market. This greater surface area allows the salt to absorb twice the amount of oil. It has less clumping, greater fragrance retention and dissolves quickly in water. Add fragrance or essential oil to dendritic salt and blend with any type of sea salt to make your bath salts. Not only will this aid in keeping your sea salts dryer, it will allow you to use a higher fragrance load and will give your finished product a free-flowing consistency.

Epsom Salt - Magnesium sulfate is used as in bath salts, particularly in flotation therapy where high concentrations raise the bath water's specific gravity, effectively making the body more buoyant. Traditionally, it is also used to prepare foot baths, intended to soothe sore feet. The reason for the inclusion of the salt is partially cosmetic: the increase in ionic strength prevents some of the temporary skin wrinkling ("pruning") which is caused by prolonged immersion of extremities in pure water. However, magnesium sulfate can also be absorbed into the skin, reducing inflammation.

Source: http://bathbodysupply.blogspot.com/2009/05/deciphering-differences-in-sea-salt.html

Saturday, June 13, 2009

How to Use Shea Butter

African Shea butter is derived from the nut of the Karite tree, which grows throughout the Savannah belt of West Africa. African Shea butter has been utilized for centuries for its amazing ability to renew, repair and protect the skin. The name Karite means the Tree of Life, due to the many important ways that the people of this region use the Shea fruit.

Steps

Shea seeds that make the butter Shea butter can be used in foods and cooking. Used on the skin, it has a healing effects on burns, ulcerated skin, stretch marks, dryness and other skin conditions. It contains vegetable fats that promote cell regeneration and circulation, making it a wonderful healer and rejuvenate for troubled or aging skin.

Since it is very high in Vitamins A, E & F, it aids in cell regeneration and circulation (citation needed). It also moisturizes the skin with all the necessary ingredients that the skin needs for balance, elasticity and tone.

Shea butter has a distinctive nutty scent. Minutes after being applied to the skin however, it is quickly absorbed and the scent fades away.

When made into soap, it exfoliates the skin, gently cleaning and moisturizing at the same time.

Tips

Store your shea butter in a cool dry place.
Avoid leaving shea butter in direct sunlight.

Warnings

If you are allergic to latex, you will want to do a small patch test before you lather Shea butter all over.

Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Shea-Butter

Friday, June 12, 2009

Creating Colored Paper

Learn how to add color to your homemade paper.
From "Craft Lab"episode DCLB-107

Guest Heidi Reimer-Epp joins host Jennifer Perkins to explain how to add color to the homemade paper she created by adding dye to the pulp.

Project designed by Heidi Reimer-Epp.

Materials:
2 sheets of tissue paper—one in pink and one in blue
Rit brand Tint and Dye in Kelly Green No. 32
Botanical Paper
Works papermaking pigment in violet
1 tablespoon Botanical PaperWorks
liquid sizing
4 tea bags
1/2 cup grass

Adding Color to Homemade Paper

Tissue Paper—Add color to handmade paper by blending vibrantly-colored tissue paper in with your pulp. Tear the tissue paper into 1" pieces, soak for two minutes then add to a blender of processed pulp. Process the pulp and tissue until you have a smooth, even color.

Alternatively, add and then pulse the blender for only a second or two to produce large chunks of color in the pulp. The longer the tissue is blended, the smoother the color will be.

Dyes and Pigments—Use fabric dye and Botanical PaperWorks papermaking pigments to add color to untreated pulp.

Dissolve a package of fabric dye (example: Rit powder dye) in water, following package directions. To a bucket of unstrained pulp (pulp and water), add the liquid and stir well to disperse the color. For best results, use cotton, abaca or hemp fiber. Since recycled paper contains many chemicals that impede the absorption of the dye, avoid using it or combine it in equal parts with cotton or abaca. Leave the pulp to soak overnight, drain it and proceed with papermaking.

Papermaking pigments work in a similar manner to fabric dyes, however you need to add liquid sizing to assist in the bonding of pigment to fiber. Dilute one tablespoon of sizing in one cup of water. Add this mixture to 1/2 pound of unstrained pulp. Stir and let sit for five minutes. Dissolve a small amount of pigment in a cup of water and add to the pulp. Stir well and let sit for 15 minutes. Strain pulp and proceed with papermaking.

Experiment with differing amounts of dye and pigment to obtain the desired depth of color.

Natural Dyes and Color—Plant material and flowers can be used to add color and interest to handmade paper. To create a paper colored with tea, boil six tea bags in three cups of water. Steep in water for 30 minutes. Remove tea bags. Add the remaining liquid to 1/4 pound of unstrained pulp and mix well. Let sit overnight, then strain pulp and proceed with papermaking.
For added flecks and texture, add the tea bags to the blender. Proceed with papermaking as per above instructions. Paper will be flecked with bits of tea. Paper will dry with a delicate tea scent.
To add dashes of color, add a handful of grass cuttings to a bucket of strained pulp. Mix well by hand, carefully blending the inclusions in. Proceed with papermaking.

RESOURCES :

Books by Heidi Reimer-Epp
300 Papermaking Recipesby Heidi Reimer-Epp and Mary Reimer
ISBN:156477533 XMartingale

The Encyclopedia of Papermaking and Bookbinding by Heidi Reimer-Epp and Mary Reimer
ISBN: 0762412143, Running Press

Beginner's Guide to Papermaking by Heidi Reimer-Epp and Mary Reimer
ISBN: 0806993944, Sterling Publishing Co.

GUESTS :
Heidi Reimer-EppBotanical PaperWorksWebsite: http://www.botanicalpaperworks/

Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_paper/article/0,2025,DIY_13771_5037402,00.html

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Adding Exfoliant to Your Whipped Butter Recipe

What happens when you cannot find a great Whipped Sugar Scrub recipe? Then why not turn your favorite whipped butter recipe into a whipped sugar scrub? Here is a tip suggested to me by a fellow Twitterer:

Take your favorite body butter recipe and chose a exfoliant, in this case sugar -

Start at a 1:3 ratio (1 part exfoliant: 3 parts recipe). If not "scrubbie enough, you can go all the way up to 1:1.

So if recipe yields 3 oz, add 1 oz exfoliant to start. Work exfoliant up to the level you feel is best by increasing by 1 oz.

Foot Powder Recipe

Allison B. Kontur
http://www.bathbodysupply.com/

Whether you are out on the town or running a marathon, sweaty feet put a damper on your plans as well as your comfort level! This recipe incorporates clay to keep you dry, baking soda to help deodorize and essential oils to neutralize odors. We use this blend directly on our feet or even sprinkle in shoes that need a little "odor control". Use a powder shaker for more controlled application!

You will need:
4 oz Kaolin Clay
4 oz Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda)
4 oz Tapioca Starch
2 oz Black Walnut Oil, Infusion
2.5 ml (1/2 tsp) Tea Tree Essential Oil
1.25 ml (1/4 tsp) Rosemary Essential Oil
1.25 ml (1/4 tsp) Lavender, Bulgarian Essential Oil
Powder Shakers

Phase 1: Place tapioca starch in a blender reserved for formulating (it is helpful if your blender has a top with a removable plug in the center). Cap your blender and with blades on, pour black walnut oil infusion and essential oil through center of lid and mix until thoroughly combined. The tapioca starch should still be powder-like in appearance and may look slightly lumpy. If it looks like a paste or has the consistency of tiny balls, you have used too much oil. (It is imperative that you weigh your ingredients for your recipe to turn out successfully.) Pour tapioca starch/oil blend into a sterile glass or stainless steel bowl and set aside.

Phase 2: Combine Kaolin Clay and Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) until blended and lowly add tapioca starch/oil/essential oil blend taking care to thoroughly combine the ingredients. We suggest wearing a mask and working in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling dust particles.

Phase 3: You may wish to dump he entire mixture back into your blender to fully incorporate the ingredients before packaging in powder shakers.

Source: http://bathbodysupply.blogspot.com/2009_02_01_archive.html

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Product Body Cash Gift Giveway

Product Body (http://www.productbody.com/) is giving away $25.00 in Product Body spending money. It's true. We will put money into your Product Body account (you don't have to have one set up yet) for you to use towards any Product Body online purchase. It's used like a gift certificate/cash and never expires. Fun, yeah? Here are the ways that you can earn entries:

1. Go to the Product Body website (http://www.productbody.com/) and look around...find a product you'd like to try in the scent you'd like to try it in and return here and leave a comment with your answer. You may leave a total of three of these (we know how hard it is to choose only one Product Body product).

2. You can also send your friends to do the same thing, BUT they have to mention in their comment that you sent them. You'll get an extra entry automatically for each person you send.

3. If you have your own blog and you post this give-away on your blog, you get TWO automatic entries! (let us know so we can add entries to your name)

Contest ends on JUNE 17th. So have fun browsing and good luck!

What is Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate?

Allison B. Kontur
http://www.bathbodysupply.com/

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is derived from coconut and palm oils. It is a safe, skin-friendly surfactant (foaming agent) for both skin and hair. This mild plant derived surfactant creates a rich, luxurious lather that effectively removes surface oil, dirt and bacteria, without stripping or drying sensitive skin. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is also attracted to water (hydrophilic), which enables it to dissolve more readily in water, thus providing superior rinseablility.

Although an ingredient's name may sound similar to another, it does not mean that the molecules are similar with respect to shape, size, performance or even function. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate sounds similar to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, however, the two molecules are very different. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is a large molecule ingredient. Large molecule ingredients are considered to be mild, gentle, and non-irritating, as they cannot penetrate the skin. In contrast, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a small molecule ingredient, and is capable of penetrating the skin, which can increase the occurrence of skin irritation and dermatitis.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is a functional and versatile foaming additive used in a multitude of commercial and handcrafted products such as bath bombs or fizzies, bubble bars, bath salts and more!


Source: http://bathbodysupply.blogspot.com/2009/03/what-is-sodium-lauryl-sulfoacetate.html

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

How to Make Cocoa Butter Lip Gloss

Here is a yummy Cocoa Butter Lip Gloss recipe by BeautyChic from ehow.  This is a simple recipe with only 3 ingredients that anyone can make in no time.  BeautyChic does not any flavoring to her recipe, but if you want to add your favorite candy flavoring, stevia or essential to make it even more special.

Monday, June 8, 2009

10 Innovative Packaging Ideas

Peter Renton -- Packaging Digest, 9/8/2008

It was Peter Drucker, the leading business thinker of the 20th century, who said that business has two functions – marketing and innovation. This article is going to merge both these ideas. Packaging is ultimately a marketing function, it is the final marketing message your customers will see before purchasing your product. If you are selling at a retail store your packaging can be a major factor in determining the success of your product.Today, to break through the clutter of the hundreds of other competing products out there it pays to be different. Look at what your competition is doing, and make sure you have an innovative and unique look. Innovation in packaging will get your product noticed, it will help build your brand, and it will give your product some personality. Whether you like it or not your product is initially going to be judged by your packaging. So, how do you create innovative packaging? You can pay a packaging design firm thousands of dollars to come up with some ideas or you can create the ideas yourself. Here are ten ideas that will hopefully stimulate some packaging innovations for your own products.

1. Create a Reusable Package The boutique beverage market is mature and extremely competitive, so you might think there are few really new ideas when it comes to packaging. You would be wrong. POM Tea has created something truly different. For a start the product itself is different – it is tea infused with pomegranate juice. But it is the packaging that is remarkable; the drink is packaged in a regular tall drinking glass with a lid and a clear shrink wrap label. It says on the label: Remove the label, keep the glass. In our local Wild Oats it retails for $2.79, not that expensive for a bottled tea, and you get a free glass. No need to worry about recycling here – you get to reuse the packaging.

2. Add a Little Extra to Your Packaging Sometimes you can have very standard packaging, but stand out from the crowd by just adding a little twist to it. Amy’s Kitchen has done just that with their line of pasta sauces. It is a standard size jar with a standard color label that really blends in with all the other pasta sauce offerings. What sets them apart is the paper and gold bow over the lid of the jar. It looks like the way your grandmother would package it, and you can’t go down the aisle of pasta sauces without noticing it.

3. Make Design the Focus of Your Packaging Most people think about the product first and the packaging second, but Method Products turned that equation around. They focused on packaging from the very beginning – they wanted to create packaging that was beautiful, that you didn’t have to hide in the cupboard. They created a premium line of cleaning products with packaging that you could display in the kitchen or bathroom like a home accessory. Just stroll down the aisles of any Costco or Target and you will see this focus on design really makes Method Products stand out.

4. Create Fun Packaging Fun packaging doesn’t just have to be for kids, after all adults like to have fun, too. The bright colors and unusual shapes that dominate kids’ products can work in adult products, but usually a more subtle approach is better. One industry that has started to embrace a little more fun in their packaging is the wine industry. Just take a trip to the local liquor store and look at all the fun animals on wine labels these days. We have penguins, kangaroos, frogs, horses, swans and many more critters appearing on wine labels. We may not be ready for a penguin shaped wine bottle, but a colorful penguin label can add an element of fun and really stand out from the more conservative wine labels.

5. Let Your True Colors Shine Through Candle-Lite is the goliath of the candle industry with over 160 years of continuous candle making operations. Their packaging is nothing fancy, just a candle in a clear jar, but the colors they choose are striking. They use bright colors, often with multi-layered candles and they let these colors shine through with simple clear jars. And a simple label on a white background accentuates the colors in the jar. On my local supermarket shelf their candles really stood out from the dozens of other brands.

6. Extend Your Labels with Sandwich Printing If you are selling a clear liquid in a clear bottle then you have an option available to you that can give you more packaging space for very little extra cost. I am talking about printing on the back of your labels. You can’t put regulatory information on the back of your labels, but you can run contests, tell a story about your company, or give ideas about how best to use your product. It is a simple way to give your customers more information and not detract from the presentation of your package.

7. Try the Metallic Look Most labels are printed on white or clear material, but there are many other options available to you. One look you can consider is using a metallic foil for your labels or packaging. With a good design the metallic look can be very striking when compared to the same design on white, and really isn’t that much more expensive.

8. Focus Your Packaging on a Specific Target The Axe line of products from Unilever has a very specific target audience – young men aged between 18 and 35. So they built their packaging to appeal to that target. The package for the Axe Shower Gel looks like it could just as easily contain motor oil as shower gel. It is a thick molded black plastic container that has a rugged appearance that appeals directly to this demographic. Here is a product that has tailored not just the contents but also the packaging to their specific target market.

9. Merge Two Packaging Concepts Another very competitive industry is the beer business, with the big players there always looking for an edge on their competitors. Last year Anheuser Busch came out with a completely new concept in packaging that ended up winning several packaging awards. The concept was so simple it is amazing no one had done it before. We all know beer comes in glass bottles and aluminum cans. What Anheuser Busch decided to do was just combine these two concepts and they came up with the aluminum bottle. It was different, it looked classy and eye-catching, and it was 100% recyclable.

10. Look to Nature for Inspiration Nature has some amazing examples of “innovative packaging.” Consider the banana, the pea-pod, the kangaroo pouch, the pine cone – these are all examples of nature creating efficient packaging. Nature’s packaging is usually elegant and beautiful as well as efficient. There are shapes, colors and even packaging concepts that you can borrow from nature’s example. So next time you go for a walk in the woods, take a look around you and marvel at the innovative packaging created by nature.

The idea for this article is really to get you to think more about your packaging. Take one or two of these ideas and think about how they can be adapted to your product. If you focus on your packaging and create something that is unique to your company you will be more successful.

Remember, your packaging not only has to contain your product, it is your final marketing message to your customers. Look at what your competition is doing and make sure you deliver a strong message with your packaging.

Copyright 2006 Peter Renton

Peter Renton is the founder of Lightning Labels, Inc. the leaders in digital label printing. He writes regularly about the label printing and packaging industry on his blog.

Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Method soap bottle photo by Laura Mundee
Banana photo by Amanda-Vivan

Source: http://www.packagingdigest.com/article/CA6593886.html

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Making Handmade Paper in 10 Easy Steps

Ancient Egyptians invented the first substance like the paper we know today called Papyrus. Papyrus scrolls were made by taking slices of the inner part of the papyrus stem, flattening then pounded into a hard, thin sheet. The word "paper" comes from the word "papyrus". The Paper that we know today was invented by Ts'ai Lun in A.D. 105, It is believed that he mixed hemp, mulberry bark, and rags with water, mashed it into a pulp, pressed out the liquid and hung it to dry in the sun. Paper was born and this humble mixture would set off one of mankind's greatest communication revolutions.

Today there is a revival in homemade papermaking crafts. Not only is it a fun experience for you and the kids, but it's a good way to recycle waste into wonderful possibilities. Below you will find a simple papermaking recipe to get you started. If this is the first time you are making paper, don't be afraid to experiment with different fibers, you don't have to stick with paper related products. Add whole flower heads to the pulp mixture after it has been through the blender. You can add scraps of yarn, tin foil, even seeds. Its all comes down to what you want. Experiment with different textures and colors after all Ts'ai Lun did! Remember, some of your ideas will turn out while others may not. Have fun with it, express your creativity.

Simple Recipe:

Many types of paper that can be used include:
Computer Paper (unprinted)
Newspaper (If you want a grayish colored paper)
Magazines
Egg Cartons
Old Cards (For heavier paper)
Toilet Paper
Paper Bags
Non Waxed Boxes (Pre-soak in warm water)
Office Paper
Tissue Paper (For finer paper)
Typing Paper
Napkins
Construction Paper
Supplies you'll need:
Sponge
Window Screening (mold)
Wood Frame (old picture frame can be used too) (deckle)
Plastic Basin/Tub (Large enough to totally immerse frame)
Blender/Food Processor (For making paper pulp)
White Felt or Flannel Fabric
Staples or Tacks (For tacking screen on frame)
Liquid starch (optional)

Instructions:

1. Select the pieces of paper to be recycled. You can even mix different types to create your own unique paper.

2. Rip the paper into small bits, and place into the blender. (about half full). Fill the blender with warm water. Run the blender slowly at first then increase the speed until the pulp looks smooth and well blended. ( 30 -40 seconds) Check that no flakes of paper remain. If there are, blend longer.
3. The next step is to make a mold. The mold, in this case, is made simply by stretching fiberglass screen (plain old door and window screen) over a wooden frame and stapling it. It should be as tight as possible.

4. Fill the basin about half way with water. Add 3 blender loads of pulp. (the more pulp you add the thicker the finished paper will be) Stir the mixture.

5. Now is the time to add the liquid starch for sizing.(This is not necessary but if the paper is going to be used for writing on, you should add some, the starch helps to prevent inks from soaking into the paper fibers.) Stir 2 teaspoons of liquid starch into the pulp. Place the mold into the pulp and then level it out while it is submerged. Gently wiggle it side-to-side until the pulp on top of the screen looks even.

6. Slowly lift the mold up until it is above the level of the water. Wait until most of the water has drained from the new paper sheet. If the paper is very thick, remove some pulp from the tub. If it is too thin, add more pulp and stir the mixture again.

7. When the mold stops dripping, gently place one edge on the side of a fabric square (felt or flannel square). Gently ease the mold down flat, with the paper directly on the fabric. Use a sponge to press out as much water as possible. Wring the excess water from the sponge back into the large plastic tub.

8. Now comes the tricky part. Hold the fabric square flat and slowly lift the edge of the mold. The wet sheet of paper should remain on the fabric. If it sticks to the mold, you may have pulled to fast or not pressed out enough water. It takes a little practice. You can gently press out any bubbles and loose edges at this point.

9. Repeat the steps above, and stack the fabric squares on a cookie sheet. Save one fabric square to place on the top of the stack to cover the last piece of paper. Use another cookie sheet to press the remaining water out of the stack. (do this outside or in the bathtub, it can make a mess).

10. After you press the stack, gently separate the sheets. They can be dried by hanging on a clothesline or laying them out on sheets of newspaper. When they have dried peel them off the fabric and voila! you have paper!

Source: http://www.pioneerthinking.com/makingpaper.html

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Grapeseed Oil Profile

From Oils by Nature

Grapeseed Oil (Vitis Vinifera)

From the Latin words “vinifera” (wine bearing) and “vitis” (vine)…

The grapeseed plant is actually a deciduous climbing vine that ranges in length from 70 to 100 feet. There are more than 3,000 varieties, and none contain more than two seeds.

Grapeseed Oil is thought to have originated in Napoleonic France during times of hardship where it was used for lighting.

Grapeseed Oil is made from the seeds (by-products of the manufacture of wine) of grapes. It is believed that actual production of grapeseed oil began as early as the 16th century. Low in saturated fats and rich in vitamins and minerals, it is used in cosmetics, soaps and most recently has become a popular cooking oil.

Due to the high linoleic acid content, Grapeseed Oil has good moisturizing and nourishing properties. The light greenish oil contains essential fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, protein and GLA which promote healthy skin.

Grapeseed oil is a light, slightly astringent oil great for massage and leaves the skin with a smooth satin finish without feeling greasy.

COMMON USES FOR GRAPESEED OIL
* Creams and lotions for oily and acne prone skin
* Massage products

BENEFITS OF GRAPESEED OIL
* Slightly astringent
* Strengthens tissue cells
* Preserves natural moisture
* Non-greasy feeling

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/grapeseed-oil-profile/2009/05/08/

Friday, June 5, 2009

Avocado Body Butter Recipe

Avocado Body Butter by Janice Coxfrom Soap Nuts

Ingredients

1/4 cup grated cocoa butter
1 TBS. coconut oil
2 TBS. sesame oil
1 TBS. avocado
1 TbS. grated beeswax

Directions:

Combine all ingredients in an ovenproof glass container.
Place the container into a 1 - 2 ” H2O bath. Melt oils & wax gently.
Pour the melted mixture into a clean jar & allow to cool. Stir the cooled mixture.
Spread the butter on your body & massage into the skin. Yield : 4 oz.

Note : If you have no sesame oil, substitute sweet almond, grapeseed, or apricot kernel oil.

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/avocado-body-butter-recipe/2009/05/11/

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Blue Raspberry Swirl

Swirling CP soap is VERY easy to accomplish! When I gave it my first try, it was only the 3rd batch of soap I had ever made, and it turned out very good...I was happy to find that it was so easy - and the results were wonderful!

Making Swirls...When trying out new ideas, I always like to start out with small, 1 lb. batches - that way if it bombs, its not a huge loss! Below is the recipe and instructions.

Ingredients:
4 oz. coconut oil
8 oz. olive oil
4 oz. palm oil
6 oz. distilled water
2 1/4 oz. lye.
6 oz. raspberry fragrance oil

Directions:

Combine oils and lye 110-120° temperatures. Add fragrance at light trace. Split the batch into 2/3 and 1/3. Color the 1/3 part with 1/4 tsp. Ultramarine Blue mixed with a little oil. Drizzled into white soap and then pour into a mold at medium to heavy trace. Insulate and let it remain in the mold 18-24 hours. Unmold and cut into bars - let cure 2-3 weeks. (Just a note - the FO I used was from Soap Supplies Plus - it didn't seize at all!) I have also heard other methods of making swirls by separating the batch and coloring one part. Then pour the main batch into the mold, and then swirl the smaller part into that and swirl around with a knife. The first method can easily be used for just about any mold. However if you are using a PVC mold, it might be a little harder to get your knife in there =) Another method I've heard is to stick a divider down the PVC, splitting it in half. Pour one color down one side, and the other color down the other side. Then just twist the cardboard as you pull it out. Haven't tried this, but I imagine it works very nicely.

Source: http://www.halderman.net/soap/instructions/cpswirling.htm

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Solid Perfume Recipe

I love solid perfumes for their easy portability and space saving designs. It’s also easy to make and harder to overdo when applying. Try out this solid perfume recipe from Chemistry at About.com.

Solid Perfume Ingredients
1 tablespoon beeswax or petroleum jelly
1 tablespoon jojoba oil or sweet almond oil
8-15 drops essential oil (fragrance oils used for making perfume)
small clean container (1/2 ounce) to hold your solid perfume

(You can find beeswax and oils at most health food stores or craft stores.)

If you don’t want to purchase a new container for your perfume, look for lip balm tins. Lipstick or chapstick containers also work well.

1. Melt together the wax or petroleum jelly with the jojoba or sweet almond oil. You can either microwave the ingredients for a few seconds in a microwave-safe container or else you can heat the mixture over a double-boiler.

2. Once this mixture has liquefied, remove it from heat. Stir in the essential oils. I like to use a toothpick for this, but you could use a straw or even a spoon. Expect your perfume to coat the stirrer, so either use something disposable or else something you can wash (i.e., don’t use a wooden spoon, unless you want it to smell pretty forever).

3. Pour the liquid into your final container. Set the lid on top of the container, but leave it ajar. This will help prevent condensation inside your container while minimizing the chance of microbial contamination of the product.

4. Apply the perfume by rubbing a finger on the product to liquefy it, then rub your finger on the area you want scented.

Source: http://bathnbody.craftgossip.com/solid-perfume-recipe-2/2009/03/19/

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Tub Soap Labels (Free Download)

If you would like to download free labels for your crayon style soaps, Wholesales Supplies Plus has kindly provided 18 different colors for you for FREE! And all of the colors of the rainbow are available.

To download your favorite colors, please visit their blog @ http://wholesalesuppliesplus.blogspot.com/2009/05/tub-soap-labels-free-download.html.

Note: These are large files that may take 15-30 seconds to download.

Wrap soap in airtight plastic wrap (such as Reynolds Wrap). Using a color printer, these out on standard 8 1/2' x 11' paper. Cut and apply to soap package. They work great and are tons of fun for kids!

Hope you will have fun adding these to your crayon soaps!

Monday, June 1, 2009

Cute Cupcake Tags

I found this cute template of cup cake tags from a blog Creature Comforts (http://www.creaturecomforts.typepad.com/) that might be cute to use for your bath and body products or for scrapbooking -